zgeezer

Thanks g

I understand. The companion flange is MM's first set: 280z with adaptor welded on. They are a bit longer than MM billet flanges. Which pathfinder did you use? I have a choice of several V6's: all early and middle 90's. Did you use AL? What alloy? G g

I'm upgrading my rear cv axles by adding the short axle off a Pathfinder. This requires a .5' thick spacer between the cv joint and the stub axle. What is the preferred material to use: mild steel or aluminum? If it's aluminum, how 'bout some help regarding the choice of alloy. I've searched the web for aluminum "drops". There are several different alloys... some quite pricey. 6061, 6063, 7075, and 2024 seem to be the most common. Additionally, some are tempered as T6, which I understand increases the strength of the alloy. My real question is which of these alloys is preferred for wheel spacers? Finally, is there any reason not to buy a 6 inch round drop and machine it to .5 thick rather than a .5" plate drop and turn it to fit. G

I have one I think is from a 70 series 1. It has an arm with rubber tip that appears to contact the pinion housing. I'm out of country at the moment.

On my '70 they were mounted by pins on each end and adhesive for the rest. Dealer installed, I think.

Depends which 280Z you have. The early ones without the "platform" will accept full sized 14" wheels/tires that have a diameter close to the original stock 240z. I know of no 14' wheel tire combination that is as small as the inflatable spare in the later 280s. g

That looks right, if the "spokes" are rough as in "cast". Do you know the rim width? What size tire are you running? How much? g

Going washer less worked well for me on the first pull; buuuuuuttt, the second was another story. That acme all thread [yep, that's what its called] can really put the pressure on. I used a 250# impact wrench and bell mouthed the galvanized outer pipe along with collapsing two threads. It also galled the bj out of that 17/16 nut. After searching for another nut [$17.00 + $5.00 shipping] and deciding that the price was not right, I rummaged through my junk and found a wheel bearing from one or another of my projects that was just slightly over 11/2 inches in diameter. Put that on, greased up the all thread and hit it with the impact wrench. Pulled that puppy out quicker than you could pick your nose. This tool will be in my trunk along with a 24V lithium battery powered impact wrench and a 20 inch crescent wrench on every foray into JY . Thanks for designing it. Well worth the bux. G

If I were doing my swap over again, I'd take a very good look at the 3.8 L Ford v6 in the new Mustangs and trucks. My brother just bought one with a 6R80 AT for $1,000.00. [sacramento, CA and it is missing some sensors] While this is going into an early Falcon, it looks good to fit the Z tunnel with some reservation about the AT. These are base engines, rated 305hp and, if one is to believe the ford forums, they are underrated and thought to put 300hp to the ground. The 6r80 looks wide and high enough to require rebuilding the transmission tunnel. g

These, along with slot mags, were common dealer installed options in the middle '70s. They are eight spokes, rough cast centers, machined lips, and often copper/gold color. They look like these: Mini Lite If you have one or more, send me a PM. If the price is right, I'll pull the trigger on PayPal. G

Not really a problem. I've installed an LM7 with 4160E automatic transmission into a series 1 240z. Very narrow tunnel. I used the following kit: lokar column shift. Here are the steps: 1. Remove your shift unit out of the console. Note that the long "shift arm" is on the right side. You will remove one allen headed set screw and disassemble to unit. You will reinstall the "shift arm" on the left side. You may have to slightly dress the head of the set screw because it will have some interference when you move the lever down into "low". 2. Install the lokar billet adjustable arm on the transmission shift shaft so that it is vertical with the small narrow end pointed to 12:00 o'clock. 3. At this time you will have the shifter arm closer to the center line of the tunnel and the lokar arm very, very, close or interfering with the transmission tunnel. Massage the tunnel to gain clearance to move the lokar arm through all of the AT gear detents. 4. Now, you must construct a rod to connect the long shifter lever with the lokar transmission lever. I used heim joints such as provided by the lokar kit. It is NOT a direct line of sight rod. You will have to bend, measure, bend again and move both levers through their rotations before you have the right "angle". The problem is that the levers do not share the same planes. I used 1/4 copper tubing to mock up the connecting rod. When you have a shape that works, I suggest you transfer it to the thickest steel rod you can find, fit, and bend. This has to be stiff and the curves you will put on it to clear the transmission will encourage flex. 5. When this is done, you can now spend a lot of time and magic words to adjust the geometry between the arc of the console shifter and that of the lokar unit. Lokar has two adjustments: a serrated base and a pinch groove. This will provide you will more adjustment than you will use. The problem lies at the other end of the rod: the relocated Z shift arm and the plate that provides "detents" for the Z shifter. 6. If you wish to have access to all AT gear selections, you will probably have to modify both the Z shifter arm and the detents in the shifter itself. Not easy to clearly explain, but you will know instantly what needs to be done when you have the Z AT shifter out on a bench. It is all a matter of geometry. 7. At this point, my rather flexible rod allows me to shift easily through PRND. To get the use of the lower detents, I will have to spend more time on modifying both the console shift arm and the Z's built in detent plate. At about this time you will be looking for an aftermarket cable actuated shifter. That will be much easier to install. I've gone the stock shifter route because I'm looking for a "stock" appearance and I'm pretty cheap. Hope this helps. I'd post photos, but for some reason I lost access to my photo albums with the last software swap. (Any one have any help here?) g

For me, the only time I could really take advantage of 500hp+ would be at a drag strip or making that pass around a tractor and 55' trailer beginning at 55mph. Then, I could use the HP. Meanwhile, my DD continues to be a Mazda Mx5 MazdaSpeed with a longer gear set in the back and a hard top. Not much HP... less than 180.., but little turbo lag and a great connection to the road. It makes little difference in the size of my smile, whether I'm driving over to the local stop & rob or have just come down the 18 from Big Bear to San Bernardino: its a great ride. My 10 year Z project will be my replacement for the MS... a little more comfort in the passenger side for my partner and, yes, about twice the horsepower. G

I've got two that I pulled to replace with the MM style billet. $75.00 + shipping, PayPal only. Can ship tomorrow afternoon. Stub axles only no companion flange. G

If you have any left, I'll take one. Please PM me. G

Yeah, it's "that" pin connecting the strut to the lower rear "wishbone". I have PayPal. If you have one in straight condition with good threads, send me a PM. G

Let me repeat.....go to another attorney... see the post above. That pizza parlor may have some liability in this. Different states have different laws affecting liability, but every state imposes liability on a master for the negligence of his servant in course of doing the master's bidding. This is employee/independent contractor stuff. Check it out before you sign anything with Progressive or Progressive. g

A "pizza delivery guy" you say. Well, you might have another insurance policy available to you: the pizza business (franchise) that requires employees to use their own vehicles for delivery of the franchise's goods. These laws are different for every state; but, given the fact that you were in another state of mind for 7 hours and have severe double vision and $25K of medical bills I'd recommend you talk to another attorney. Avoid the splashy video ads of some dude who looks tough into the camera and intones "I'll fight for you!". You need experience. Look for someone or a firm, that advertises $1.0M jury awards. Or, better yet, there are publications that track jury awards and will tell you the attorneys that are winners or losers. In Colorado, look here. Don't stress the Z, look out after you own health.......some of this stuff doesn't show its head until 5 or 10 years down the road. Good to hear you are alive. G

Full policy payout works; but, I'd read your policy closely for language like this: "per occurrence combined single limit bodily injury/property damage or "bodily injury by accident, each accident" In a 25/50 policy this would mean $25,000 for both you and the GF. g

Small world. I lived in Vacaville across from the Buck mansion, solo'd out of the Nut Tree Airport, taught at Vanden HS, and practiced law with Solano County Legal Services. Drove Fiat 124 Sport Coupes and I still eat at Murrillos in old town Vacaville. The town lost much of its character when the garlic/onion drying facility shut down. You could identify Vacaville at 10,000 feet by the pungent smell of onions or garlic. Still, a very nice place to live. g

If the R&P were 3.15:1 or 3.36:1 it might be worth it. g

I glean that those who did the Maxima rear disc brakes, stock fronts, and a Proportioning Valve are likely to have a balanced set up. What about those of use who have the MM 240sx rear discs? Given the MM240 zx rear discs, what would be a better front set up: the stock rotors and calipers with quality pads or stock rotors with the Toyota solid disc calipers? I understand that "better" is a four letter word, but my choices are limited. Today, I must build around the MM mount and rotors and it appears I will forgo the Toyota vented rotor calipers. What are the realistic options? Arizona Z and Silvermine are priced waaaay beyond my current budget. g

The Scion looks like a great car; but, if you want a modern sports car with impeccable handling and a cheap price: here is your answer. Bear in mind that these can be coupes with the drop of fiberglass top. g

Ok, here's what I have: one 240Z gas tank modified for a internal pump from an s12. The tanks on the S12 are very similar to the S30: high on one end with a flat bottom under the spare tire well. Given the similar shape of the tanks, I think the S12 gauge sender "might" also be "non-lineal". Are they compatible with the stock S30 gauge? Does anyone know the ohm range for the S12? g

Yes, I put a set into an early R200 long nose open differential. 3.54:1 is a good ratio; I would think even with mt6 in place. They are not too common. G

I've seen both of those in the 60's and 70's. Both are old school and might not be more than 7 inches wide. Are they worth buying? If they are complete and cheap... sure. The bottom style I've seen on '70s muscle cars as a dealer installed option. Sorry no idea of manufacturer. g