madkaw

Just a thought but you will find small cracks sometimes on the nose between the valves which might be more cosmetic than anything else and can be welded . I’d see what the machine shop says

What year head ? Where are the cracks ?

Adapters for Subbie diffs are still plenty available . That’s not the cheapest but easiest option - plug and play . 3.54 is the most common but there are 3.9 clutch types around .

Time to modify over the winter . On the list is to quiet down the exhaust and try and get rid of all my drone issues . Also on the list is make another intake manifold based off of the diesel intake . Currently at the welder for the first step in the process . I am flipping around the plenum part of the intake to ‘uncurl’ the intake away from the engine . This gives much more room for the fuel rail and injectors . Also provides straighter shot to my CAI . I also plan on increasing plenum size for more volume . I noticed with the Protunerz and its 38mm runners that I lost a lot of torque down low . The diesel intake runners are an ideal size to match my ports in the head . Longer runners should also help . It will be interesting to see how the engine performs with this intake

SOLD

What year Z ? what trans crossmember ? Is the crossmember the early or late ? If the crossmember ( late ) is put in upside down that would lower the rear of the trans and raise the front of the engine .

Not mounted in stock location though- right?

So with his kit you have to run a 5mm spacer which I don’t have room for . I don’t remember reading about that with the kit offered here .

thanks - I’ve never done business with them but I sent them a message

Currently running a Tilton 1” - no leaks

These kits still around ?!! im ready to buy a full kit if they are

Run 12vs to it - might as well try

Maybe a pull up resistor at the CAS might help . My truck gave me fits and I ended up putting a pull up resistor at the CAS - even though the board had one - it fixed my issue . my buddy even put an oscilloscope to it and said the signal was fuzzy . The pull up resistor was a Hail Mary

Yeah - I would sfinnerty1018@gmail.com

Looked at your tune briefly . Might try increasing step size for better reliability . Mine only stays stable if power is always on like yours . Not sure I see anything that would cause a sync issue

I have not noticed any delay but have noticed the lack of self centering . I’ve gotten use to it and I drive my car a lot .

I use the Truepig eps . I had to notch the angle frame that the pedals ride on just a bit off the end . Been using this unit for a couple of years

I believe the zx dampers were all bigger

I’d say it’s a toss up . Most wouldn’t run the MN head because of the liners . Better NA head for sure , but it would work .

What block are you using ? Will this be a NA build ? MN head makes for a great street NA especially if you have a flat top block . Put a cam in there and go !

Better use some RTV or buy the expensive gasket they recommend . The flange is warped probably like mine . I used a machinist straight edge and there was .020 drop off on the end . I bought the 75$ gasket but some red RTV would probably l work also . my car makes all kinds of whistles and gear noises .

36-38 max at 100 KPA ? If so I would back that off to about 34 . No problem to be at 40 at light cruise

Be conservative with the timing under load . Yes the engine can run at 45 degrees at light cruise with low Kpas . I would agree that 34 at full load is more realistic . Make yourself some detonation headsets and listen to your engine . Make adjustments accordingly

If I haven’t mentioned yet - build yourself some detonation headsets and listen for knock . It’s surprisingly easy to hear and cheap to build . Still need a knock sensor mounted someway on the block . It’s easier than trying to wire in a module on the MS . We can look at your tune but would be guessing whether it’s too aggressive . Search on you tube . Besides the knock sensor I have 40$ in the set up . I was detonating on a NA motor but wasn’t hearing it and it was destroying #6 piston . I ended up pulling quite a bit of timing around 4kish .

if it started that well you are doing well You should make some home maid detonation cans to listen for knock . Not sure if you have a knock sensor . It’s pretty amazing how well you can pick up detonation with your ears . Heading to NY, NJ next week .