madkaw

Currently running a Tilton 1” - no leaks

These kits still around ?!! im ready to buy a full kit if they are

Run 12vs to it - might as well try

Maybe a pull up resistor at the CAS might help . My truck gave me fits and I ended up putting a pull up resistor at the CAS - even though the board had one - it fixed my issue . my buddy even put an oscilloscope to it and said the signal was fuzzy . The pull up resistor was a Hail Mary

Yeah - I would sfinnerty1018@gmail.com

Looked at your tune briefly . Might try increasing step size for better reliability . Mine only stays stable if power is always on like yours . Not sure I see anything that would cause a sync issue

I have not noticed any delay but have noticed the lack of self centering . I’ve gotten use to it and I drive my car a lot .

I use the Truepig eps . I had to notch the angle frame that the pedals ride on just a bit off the end . Been using this unit for a couple of years

I believe the zx dampers were all bigger

I’d say it’s a toss up . Most wouldn’t run the MN head because of the liners . Better NA head for sure , but it would work .

What block are you using ? Will this be a NA build ? MN head makes for a great street NA especially if you have a flat top block . Put a cam in there and go !

Better use some RTV or buy the expensive gasket they recommend . The flange is warped probably like mine . I used a machinist straight edge and there was .020 drop off on the end . I bought the 75$ gasket but some red RTV would probably l work also . my car makes all kinds of whistles and gear noises .

36-38 max at 100 KPA ? If so I would back that off to about 34 . No problem to be at 40 at light cruise

Be conservative with the timing under load . Yes the engine can run at 45 degrees at light cruise with low Kpas . I would agree that 34 at full load is more realistic . Make yourself some detonation headsets and listen to your engine . Make adjustments accordingly

If I haven’t mentioned yet - build yourself some detonation headsets and listen for knock . It’s surprisingly easy to hear and cheap to build . Still need a knock sensor mounted someway on the block . It’s easier than trying to wire in a module on the MS . We can look at your tune but would be guessing whether it’s too aggressive . Search on you tube . Besides the knock sensor I have 40$ in the set up . I was detonating on a NA motor but wasn’t hearing it and it was destroying #6 piston . I ended up pulling quite a bit of timing around 4kish .

if it started that well you are doing well You should make some home maid detonation cans to listen for knock . Not sure if you have a knock sensor . It’s pretty amazing how well you can pick up detonation with your ears . Heading to NY, NJ next week .

And yes _ I still have this available

Nothing looks too crazy. I would back off your timing a little . I'm a NA guy so over 100 KPA im lost . Since its a GR tune -you'll probably close > Lot's of other settings in MS have to be right also. First start is always nerve racking. Where in NJ?

So I took the Z to the Dream Cruise this weekend . First time I’ve done a long road trip in the Z and the only one with the 3.2 . Roughly 300 miles for me from Indiana . The Z did great and quite comfortable . What was crazy was I got 35 mpg at 75-80 mph cruising speed . I have a 3.9 diff and my OD is a .63 so I cruise at 2700-2800 rpm’s . I run the engine at about 15+ AFR’s . I wonder if my intake plenum helps my aero ? Referencing the wind tunnel info maybe my plenum builds that air wall in front of my car and makes the car more aerodynamic . It feels more competent on the road too

Pure art ! duals ?

I drove my car to Woodward Dream Cruise this weekend . First time I’ve driven strictly highway miles and was blown away with my MPG . I shoot for an AFR of 15.5 at light cruise . I now have a Tremec T5 with a .63 OD so at 75-80 mph I am turning 2600-2800. Also have a 3.9 diff . I’ve been averaging 20 ish around town but I managed 35 mpg highway !!!!! Thats with a 3.2 with a 535 lift cam . I verified this twice . I actually thought my fuel gauge was malfunctioning but the math at the pump equaled 35 . Love the L !

The casings are exactly the same for the Nissan and Subbie units . The stub axles would look a little different than the stock ones . The Nissan units the stub axle will have a bolt holding it in place where the Subbie units just snap in . Ratio can be figured by just marking and rotating the assemble and counting the ratio difference

Sounds like things might not be properly grounded ?

What do you mean everything works normal when you disconnect the ecu ignition wire . You are probably going to have to provide more info for help . Richard Boyk does remote tuning . Not sure how much he’s on this site anymore - but he is on FB on the Church of L page

Well I have this fancy Moroso oil catch can between the crank case and the PCV . I haven’t seen much in it honestly - so maybe a good thing . THOUGH- I have taken off my intake to find oil residue sitting in the runners near the head - so not sure what that’s about. Just under the air intake tube attached to the inner fender