madkaw

You fiddled with it ? You are supposed to calibrate the voltage to as close to 2.5v’s as possible . There is a procedure that you can find on about any MS manual . I had issues with the fact that in cold weather the engine cranked to low and the signal got lost for starts. Only time I’ve had a sync loss while driving is when my hall sensor was falling off . I have ms2 on my truck and MS3X on my Z . I run batch fire on multiple coils so my set up isn’t like yours

Yes- you want to verify the 2.5v’s across the 2 pots . I had issues with my MS2 and picking up the signal from my sensor . I ended up installing an external pull up and that solved my issue

What type CAS ? Have you checked voltage across the pots in the ECU ? Do you need a pull up resistor ?

Did you try a PM . He eventually got back to me

If you got the torque I’d go with the 3.54

Why would dizzy power be spliced into power for the MS unit ? Isn’t there an output for the dizzy?

It’s going to be tough to ‘feel’ your way around a tune and trying to dial it in off your VE table . I would get some help tuning - like is in a passenger that can drive while you tune . If you think the wideband is even close I would use it to get you in the ballpark . Put some realistic numbers in your AFR table and try it

I had nothing but issues with an AEM wideband on a customers car . After googling I read about many customers having issues do to faulty O2 sensors that AEM knew about .

Now that I looked at your AFR table and VE table I can see why it doesnt run well. Do you have tuner analyze? Its very good

Curious why you arent incorporating the AFR table in general settings? . Sure you dont have a loose connection on the fuel pump?

I assumed you were MIGing . My body shop friend recommended to fill with silicon bronze because it takes less heat .

Are you fill welding with silicon bronze ?

The actual bolt spacing is different too. The Jeep has a more narrow bolt spacing. Ive been reading up on some EFI support pages and I guess I need to actually watch the valve open and close to get the total steps correct . Not sure what your total homing steps are

Mine just refuses to open sometimes . I’ll try a GM before I go to a AAR

Not a final version , but this is where I left it last run . This eliminated all pinging . I just started to dial in more fuel to see if I could raise timing . I also having trim tables to isolate #6 if that’s the offender

Still no luck with the stepper IAC . I am going to get a used GM style to replace this Jeep style I have now to see if that helps . It seems that it just decides not to work sometimes . I get zero air at start and have to use the throttle to modulate . I am about ready to ditch the stepper all together and go ole school with a AAR Bosch valve . I have 3 of them laying around . I use them on my truck and never have a start issue .

Update : I had been fighting an erratic wideband on the rear collector -cylinders 4-6. Well it turns out I still had a leak at the collector which is before the O2 sensors - dammit . This is a Z story header and collector . The collector pipe was modified for my exhaust and I thought I had the flange true , but it still leaked . This time around I eliminated the gasket all together and used Red Loctite only . At the same time I had a new O2 sensor installed since I was that deep into it . I DID see evidence of a leak but changed the sensor anyways . FIXED! This change helped so much with the tune and you could hear it ! I was able to get the banks to harmonize much better with AFR’s and sound . This helped to mitigate the drone I was getting at low rpm cruise . I thought this would also fix an issue I’ve seen on every intake I’ve used where the AFR’s between the two O2 sensors would be different during high vacuum running - light cruise . Megasquirt didn’t seem to be able to compensate in those scenarios though I had two separate O2 sensors dividing the banks . I ended up going into the injector trims and adding fuel to 1-3 since they ran really lean under high vacuum . Maybe they suck all the air out of the plenum before it reaches the last 3 cylinders . I added almost 20% to 1-3 . At this point the AFR’s evened up and you could feel and hear the difference . This is probably the best I’ve had my L running . Happy guy right now

I’ve been using Megasquirt 3x on my 3.2 for a while now . I had a knock sensor module installed on my X board . For some reason I can’t get it to work . I have a feeling there is a defect in the pin out during install . I’m not good enough to troubleshot bad install of a module and I’ve been reading about the usefulness of a cheap audio version that could made for 50$ . Background - I had to tear down my 3.2 because I had remove the crank to clean up the snout from a bad balancer . When I popped out #6 I found a broken top ring and evidence of detonation . Admittedly I was aggressive with timing and it bit me . There were no signs of the broken ring and the pulled 225 rwhp on the dyno . In fact that cylinder showed the highest CR = 220 psi This engine trans package is very noisy . I had straight cut gears and Kameari chain tensioner and a loud exhaust . I thought I heard ping around 4300 and attributed it to a rattling shifter - oops . # 6 was the only cylinder with any damage . I also pulled coolant from #6 at the head with a bypass to help mitigate problems . This time around I want to make sure this doesn’t happen again . I followed this you tube video. i was skeptical but it really works well. I drilled a hole above the freeze plug around 5&6 . Plenty of met there and there is a flat boss area for the sensor to sit flat against the block . You can hear the valve train clearly but you can also hear the ping clearly . I ended up pulling 4 degrees out of total timing on 93 octane . Megasquirt 3 allows for individual spark trim and I am going to try and isolate the issue to number 6 if that’s the case . Anyways - it’s not as good as real time retard available on ECU’s , but it is very effective to show some limits .

Yes - they are tough . This is also the Torsen version .

Going a different route with my car . Sold to me used with 30k miles . As you can see it’s super clean . I am willing to pop the cover if buyer requests . asking 750$ ships from 47401

Looks like the same pistons I run with the dish . Smart man to put arrows on the pistons. You won’t put one in the wrong place like I did - lol.

That’s what I run , 18-20 degrees .

Where’s the English version !

This tailshaft housing allows anyone running the Nissan T5 to upgrade to a World Class T5 and have the shifter in the stock Nissan position . This Aussie version of the T5 was made for the larger output shaft -1.5”. Basically you could grab a Foxbody Mustang transmission and slap this on and have the shifter in the Nissan location . Or you buy a brand new Tremec t5 like I did and swap out this tailshaft housing . Tailshaft comes with shifter rod which is required . There are slight mods to make the World class work with the L series . The input shaft has to be the short 10 spline . That also means a change of clutch - which I run an organic Mustang clutch disc . The input shaft will have to have the nose machined down for the pilot bushing . Output is 26 spline so the DS will have to modified . So far I have no complaints with the Tremec T5 other than the OD being huge .63 . 2400 rpm is 80 mph . I might get 30 mpg ! Reach out to me for any questions I will ship anywhere .

I am running a stepper IAC