madkaw

Maybe a pull up resistor at the CAS might help . My truck gave me fits and I ended up putting a pull up resistor at the CAS - even though the board had one - it fixed my issue . my buddy even put an oscilloscope to it and said the signal was fuzzy . The pull up resistor was a Hail Mary

Yeah - I would sfinnerty1018@gmail.com

Looked at your tune briefly . Might try increasing step size for better reliability . Mine only stays stable if power is always on like yours . Not sure I see anything that would cause a sync issue

I have not noticed any delay but have noticed the lack of self centering . I’ve gotten use to it and I drive my car a lot .

I use the Truepig eps . I had to notch the angle frame that the pedals ride on just a bit off the end . Been using this unit for a couple of years

I believe the zx dampers were all bigger

I’d say it’s a toss up . Most wouldn’t run the MN head because of the liners . Better NA head for sure , but it would work .

What block are you using ? Will this be a NA build ? MN head makes for a great street NA especially if you have a flat top block . Put a cam in there and go !

Better use some RTV or buy the expensive gasket they recommend . The flange is warped probably like mine . I used a machinist straight edge and there was .020 drop off on the end . I bought the 75$ gasket but some red RTV would probably l work also . my car makes all kinds of whistles and gear noises .

36-38 max at 100 KPA ? If so I would back that off to about 34 . No problem to be at 40 at light cruise

Be conservative with the timing under load . Yes the engine can run at 45 degrees at light cruise with low Kpas . I would agree that 34 at full load is more realistic . Make yourself some detonation headsets and listen to your engine . Make adjustments accordingly

If I haven’t mentioned yet - build yourself some detonation headsets and listen for knock . It’s surprisingly easy to hear and cheap to build . Still need a knock sensor mounted someway on the block . It’s easier than trying to wire in a module on the MS . We can look at your tune but would be guessing whether it’s too aggressive . Search on you tube . Besides the knock sensor I have 40$ in the set up . I was detonating on a NA motor but wasn’t hearing it and it was destroying #6 piston . I ended up pulling quite a bit of timing around 4kish .

if it started that well you are doing well You should make some home maid detonation cans to listen for knock . Not sure if you have a knock sensor . It’s pretty amazing how well you can pick up detonation with your ears . Heading to NY, NJ next week .

And yes _ I still have this available

Nothing looks too crazy. I would back off your timing a little . I'm a NA guy so over 100 KPA im lost . Since its a GR tune -you'll probably close > Lot's of other settings in MS have to be right also. First start is always nerve racking. Where in NJ?

So I took the Z to the Dream Cruise this weekend . First time I’ve done a long road trip in the Z and the only one with the 3.2 . Roughly 300 miles for me from Indiana . The Z did great and quite comfortable . What was crazy was I got 35 mpg at 75-80 mph cruising speed . I have a 3.9 diff and my OD is a .63 so I cruise at 2700-2800 rpm’s . I run the engine at about 15+ AFR’s . I wonder if my intake plenum helps my aero ? Referencing the wind tunnel info maybe my plenum builds that air wall in front of my car and makes the car more aerodynamic . It feels more competent on the road too

Pure art ! duals ?

I drove my car to Woodward Dream Cruise this weekend . First time I’ve driven strictly highway miles and was blown away with my MPG . I shoot for an AFR of 15.5 at light cruise . I now have a Tremec T5 with a .63 OD so at 75-80 mph I am turning 2600-2800. Also have a 3.9 diff . I’ve been averaging 20 ish around town but I managed 35 mpg highway !!!!! Thats with a 3.2 with a 535 lift cam . I verified this twice . I actually thought my fuel gauge was malfunctioning but the math at the pump equaled 35 . Love the L !

The casings are exactly the same for the Nissan and Subbie units . The stub axles would look a little different than the stock ones . The Nissan units the stub axle will have a bolt holding it in place where the Subbie units just snap in . Ratio can be figured by just marking and rotating the assemble and counting the ratio difference

Sounds like things might not be properly grounded ?

What do you mean everything works normal when you disconnect the ecu ignition wire . You are probably going to have to provide more info for help . Richard Boyk does remote tuning . Not sure how much he’s on this site anymore - but he is on FB on the Church of L page

Well I have this fancy Moroso oil catch can between the crank case and the PCV . I haven’t seen much in it honestly - so maybe a good thing . THOUGH- I have taken off my intake to find oil residue sitting in the runners near the head - so not sure what that’s about. Just under the air intake tube attached to the inner fender

The issue with the MAP sensor was that it was integrated into the ECU and the ECU was mounted in the cabin low on the tunnel . This effectively was down hill from the engine and any condensation rolled down into the MAP sensor . My MAP sensor is now separate and mounted on the firewall above the motor . Really haven’t had any “heat soak” issues . The Protunerz intake is angled up and clears the header runners well . All other intakes I’ve used I have used heat shield tape on the lower half of the runners and plenum .

Since you will have made the effort of a fuel rail and use high impedance injectors why not go to a pick n pull salvage yard and buy some cheap used Bosch that are a bit smaller . Can’t tell you if 440cc will work or not . I run them in my 3.2 NA but I have 230 rwhp . I think before these I was running 36lb VW injectors . I moved the 36 lbs ones to my 720 truck that probably has 115 hp at the rear wheels - no issues

So I’ve been having issues with my dual widebands not reading the same most of the time . My 1-3 cylinders were erratic and I could tell by the way it was running that it was more than just an erratic reading . I eliminated all exhaust and air leaks - which I did have a vacuum leak on #1 runner because the Protunerz flange is warped . I did have some pin hole leaks around my collector - got that fixed . Swapped 1-3 injectors with 4-6 . Problem didn’t follow . Then I changed the O2 sensor - still no luck . Finally swapped in a new wideband controller and issue was resolved . This did NOT fix the fact that 1-3 wideband shows lean conditions under high vacuum MAP . Unless I trim out(fatten) the injectors in 1-3 the MS doesn’t seem able to reign in this condition . Under load the cylinders all sync up , but from 65 KPA ( big cam) on down I have to add fuel . Then the MS seems to keep up . I give the ego control 20% authority but it seems to do better with injector trim added. I have run 3 different “log” intakes and they all act the same under high vacuum . So few have my set up that there’s no one to compare with .