madkaw

When I finally got the head on a work bench and measured the intake ports I realized that I left these smaller than other heads . It was necked down to 32mm in most ports . So I opened them up to 35mm - which is the absolute limit based on a head I cut up . I do have Bonks- stage 2 cam on hand which is probably better suited for my intake - but I might try both . I think the Bonk -1 cam would give better numbers based on increasing my port size . I know bigger is not always better - but compared to all out porting on the N42 , my porting is conservative at 35mm. The intake has been welded on once again . Flange is in the right spot and I decided to weld steps on the flange to eliminate the step washers . Of course after all this welding I was skeptical this flange was flat anymore . I took to my friend/machinist/ welder/ CFD modeler/ and put it on his surface plate . It was bad . Because of its odd shape he couldn’t use his milk and had to hand scrap it flat . Andy is true expert at this . It took it little bit of time but he got it flat . It’s almost an art form . I also had him flatten out my flanges in my exhaust . I couldn’t get it to seal right and my attempts were sad - lol.

Very cool. Super impressed with your fab skills and like your art/function approach . Looks like a header that Kameari would make. Need a NA version !!

Can you tell me or did you do a CFD work with your plenum using on a NA engine? Does this style plenum only work well for turbo engines ?

What about your turbo plenum ! That’s what I want to see !!

Why the title NA vs Turbo? Also glad you are back . Anxious to see more work done on your turbo plenum . Most of your pics are gone off the site so looking forward to seeing some of those again .

Back on the grid !! Welcome !

Sounds good brother . I still remember your videos on the back roads breaking the back tire loose . Helped to motivate me ! Good luck and I wishing you the best

Maybe chickenman #richard Boyk will read this and help you out . Might try Facebook on the church of L page . Many people there can help too . I run NA so not sure that would be a good tune for you . Hopefully Chris will respond also . So it starts and idle but what’s the issue with driving ?

They are all the same height . 108.1 is the dimension I believe

Looking for this trans . Just a core will do or even just the bell housing . sfinnerty1018@gmail.com

The ones that I got with Vintage rubber( aftermarket) fit like ass . I had to make cuts to allow the seal to sit correctly in the hole . So I will have to use some seam sealer to supplement the sealing of the seal . I’ll take a pic .

I believe the RTV was meant to applied at the same time as you install the seal so it dries around the seal . It’s not a factory pump . A factory pump should have a cast impeller that is much more efficient moving the water .

You’ll have to pull that rear main and get all that RTV off of there . Nissan makes all in one seals that don’t require the metal strips . Read carefully how to put the metal strips in if that’s what you are using . I’d ditch that water pump . Get one with a cast impeller .

I even sent a pic to Dave and he said to not worry about it

Can you catch the scratches with a fingernail? I just pulled the head on my Rebello build and have the same markings . Wish I took a pic - but it’s all taped closed now . Dave allows a lot of room for the pistons to grow - like .006 difference . I have thousands of miles on this engine and have had the head of twice . Very early in the engines life it looked the same as now . I always let the engine warm up but I run it hard - A LOT

Well I am taking this opportunity to fix my intake flange position for the TB . I had the angle wrong and it made running the piping difficult . Also going to weld build the runner flanges to get rid of the step washers required with the Cannon intake . Doing all this why going with a bigger cam . While the head is out I am going to open up the ports at the neck . Currently intake runners are tapered to 37mm at the head . The head ports taper down to barely 32mm . This is one of the first MN heads I ported . You can’t hog these like some of the other L heads . I have learned after slicing up a head that I can get closer to 35mm at the smallest ID at the neck . I guess I am pleased I did 230 hp with the port pinched this much . I’ve been able to get 34.5mm just before the bowl in some of the other heads I’ve done . One person I sold a head to got 220 hp with a 2.9 running the head I built for him . This is at the tires ! Im also going to smooth out the ports a bit . I opened up the ports at the head opening to 37 - while the head was on the engine . Needless to say not optimum - but I was careful not to get shit in the motor . With it on the bench I can do a better job . Also going to CC the head and possibly do some work in the chamber . I’d like to bump up the CR to 11:1 for the next - more aggressive cam . It will be 565 lift and I believe 290 duration. I never had any detonation issues with the current set up . Once I crack the engine open I will see how the pistons look . I think with the closed chambers and 93 octane I can get away wit more CR . I can always drop some timing if needed or retard the cam timing a bit if it’s too much . Lots to do before driving season !

I might have an extra set from a roof part out. I’ll see if I can get them off

I thought mine came with instructions that stated the increments . I thought it was 2 degrees which kind of makes sense because the total amount of change available is the same as the stock sprocket

Valve seats replaced ? I’d recommend to at least going to 35mm exhaust valves - it’s kind of necessary for a performance . If the seats need to be replaced might as well go the bigger size . OEM exhaust valves are good and can be had cheap

I would wire it whatever way the tach will still work . I would highly recommend a 123 ignition set up for that engine . Though I know it’s $$ and the Rebello already hits the purse hard

SOLD Ready to go . Had this set up on my stroker and managed 226 rwhp ! Notice- 14mm fuel rail - but the injectors do seal on the stock intake . Bracket in pic is used as a stand-off for cable linkage . I used a 3ft Lockar Minor port work to match TB and blend openings at runners 500$ obo

No relay for the fuel pump?

Duffy, Do you know if the stalks can be modified on those coils ? I’d like to use them on my truck but I would need to have a 45 degree angle off the spark plug . Id need to go around the fuel rail .

Well about ready to tear things apart again . I need to cut off the mounting flange for the TB so I can get it better angled to the core support . The angle now puts too much bind on the piping leading to the core support . While it’s off I will also weld build the intake manifold flange mounting ears so I don’t have to run step washers . Very difficult to tell if I am installing the step washers correctly and it’s a vacuum leak ready to happen . Also need to church up some of my welding of the plenum . My welds sucked and left pitting that needs addressed . Im going to make all this happen in conjunction with a bigger cam . Want to get a little more duration in order to match cam to intake . I will probably bump compression closer to 11:1 also . I will also address anything that needs to be done to the ports based on finding with the CFD model . I think I can open up the ports a little more , but won’t do that unless the model suggests that. I’m about at the limit now with port size

Like to find the limits of the linered exhaust port as far as flow and see what we can do with the liners pulled . My friend Andy is working on some old Volvo heads now that have a worse short side radius on the exhaust valve than what the MN has with liner pulled . He has some interesting ideas to improve the flow to get the flow around the sharp edge of the seat . Id say either subject has not been dealt with any amount of effort . Most just went on to a different head