madkaw

I think you are right !!

I have 2 housings in great shape . No pitting and all the threads are in good shape. 100$ each - includes shipping in the US sfinnerty1018@gmail.com

Plus he had the intake hanging loose . It’s a very close fit to the thermostat where a millimeter makes a difference

Runners are too short for the rpm range I want to make power at . Probably not as big a deal for a turbo - but for my NA it is

Well like this video saying “issues with new manifold “ . I don’t see issues for a manifold that is NOT advertised as an exact OEM replacement . There are some other videos .

I realized I wasn’t keeping up with my threads . When I worked in the RR I would get stuck in hotels and had lots of time to post and desk wrench . Then I retired and went bonkers working on Z’s to support my habit . 3 years later and my back is broken and I just keep busy on my stuff .FB was okay but I do miss these forums . I especially miss the great talent here , but I am always referring people to this site for real info and not a social media opinion . Funny thing is I bought a 720 and started posting on Ratsun because that was about the only site for these trucks . Today I looked and my thread has 40k views - who would have thought . The guys there have been very helpful and I try and ignore the threads that are political in nature . This site has been the most helpful for me with my z .

Well it’s a new year so time for a new intake - lol. I have issues with my intake so instead of fixing them right now I decided to take the easy route and buy a Protunerz intake set up. Pretty nice piece. Not many options for aftermarket intakes for our motors and glad to see they put this one together . Only found one issue with a misaligned hole that holds the IAC in place . I just altered the mounting hole on the IAC . Of course nothing is just bolt on . I have to change some fuel line placement and vacuum lines and also the CAI piping . Pretty easy stuff since I was running a similar intake . I watched a couple of you tube videos that different guys made of their install - it was painful to watch . They shouldn’t be making any How To videos and they didn’t make PROTUNERZ’s look good . I like what they did with the throttle body . There’s a port for the IAT and IAC . The plenum has a PCV port on the underside! As well as the 4 vacuum ports up top . I think the price is good for all 3 pieces - plenum, fuel rail , TB and all the hardware and fittings

Completely different . Futofabs work but more play

No longer available

As far as all the comments about air distribution - you would be entertained watching my two widebands - that separate 1-3 cyl and 4-6 cyl . I think any log style where the air comes in from one end will have some distribution issues under high vacuum situations . The important thing is that under load the air distribution is even . Thinking about modifying my diesel intake next . Be cool to have air enter the center of the plenum and see what affects that has on air distribution.

I don’t think the Protunerz is that bad . I might actually go that direction . The runners on this intake are a little too short for where I want my power band . I could fix that but I really don’t want to do all that work. Too many other things going on . If I wanted to go turbo it would probably be fine - but I doubt I’ll go that direction - ever

Custom Datsun/Nissan L6 intake manifold with fuel rail and and BBK throttle body with TPS. Built on a Cannon intake manifold this custom intake manifold should bolt to any L6 cylinder head . I ran this manifold on a N47 head with injector cut outs on the head with no issues - just need to use proper gasket . Mates up with early heads with no injector cut outs also . Runners are 37mm at the head surface tapering up to 44mm at the manifold plenum . BBK throttle body is 75mm . I used cable linkage mounted to black stand off bracket in the pic . Injector bungs are for 14mm injectors . Custom fuel rail fitted with this manifold has 1/4 NPT threads at the ends with 5/16” nipples currently . Manifold has 3 vacuum ports at the end and also PCV on the bottom of the plenum . Cannon mounting flanges at head are standard thickness and do not require step washers . My project is moving a different direction and selling off parts that I will no longer be using . No defects with this manifold . I smoothed welds and polished the top surfaces only since that’s all that’s visible . There is heat wrap on runner on bottom sides to protect against heat . I had no issues and this manifold performed great. asking 500$ plus shipping PM or sfinnerty1018@gmail.com

Been rocking these seats for years on my Z . It makes riding in my Z so much better for this old mans body . Nice work!

No luck boss . I must sold it or gave it away

I’ll have to look but I doubt it . I’ll reply on here if I do

Can’t believe it’s been so long since I updated this thread . Current pics of the intake I made .

That looks about right . It allows a lot of movement which I’m not sure that is all that great for anything over stock

I went thru this recently on a customers car . Similar L28 with a Maxima head but with a Bonk cam -520 lift . This car was an automatic which really made it a challenge . After playing with float levels I ended up about 4.5 turns with SM needles . Maybe you are pulling air from somewhere else ? I ran an electric pump if that makes a difference .

Some good news ! Rebello will be able to come up with one piston for me ! BHJ Dynamics replaced my damper for free ! Their own investigation of the damper showed too tight of a tolerance for the press fit . That caused the initial galling and it got worse over time . I went ahead and purchased their installer to help make sure I get it installed properly . Really happy with Chris at BHJ - he stood by his product . Maybe should have done this earlier but I will be using the head cooling mod on 5&6 cylinders . Also going to be more conservative with my timing . Also installing a knock sensor - but this is a N42 block and had to come up with a location for it . This will take some serious calibration to make it work - if it will work in this location . I had the module already installed on my MS3 . This is a Bosch sensor

I’m sorry but I didn’t say anything about loose main bolts - only the crank bolt

The latest . There was no signs of trouble before I found this . I was changing out cams and doing more port work when someone noticed in a pic that I had 1&3 pistons swapped - dumb ass . Look liked my front seal was leaking so I went to change that and it took my a half day to get the damper off . Decided to put some fresh rings in and found a broken ring in #6 . So here we go with a complete rebuild . The bearings had some wear and it might be from dirty air being sucked in the chambers . 4500 miles total on this I had done lots of timing changes with as much as 37 degrees total at WOT - probably too much . I drive this engine hard . Rebello told me I should have left the slinger off . Also to make sure I get 150lbs on the damper . Hope I can order 1 pistons - though mine are custom- ugh. Not sure this change the way I drive it but I will be better about the areas I messed up

I run 17x8.5 +4 offset . Not sure the offsets are a clear indicator of dish size . I’m going to run 235/45/17’s . I think it’s more about wheel design

SOLD

That’s not right . You are doing the right tests. Nissan clearances should be tight . I’d take it somewhere else . Most guides come sized that the intake will be .0015 and the exhaust will be .00025 . They might tighten up during install . I just went through this . The machine shop honed out the guides to .002 - so they said . It’s a bit tricky to measure guides . I doubt after install the guides needed anything after install . Nissan says the clearance is .0008- .0015 for the intake .