icewtr

Ok, I have my 2 cents to add..lol. My first motor in my 70 z was a 60 over 350 WITH 8.5 Compression junk heads from an 84 camaro. They had 185/150 valves. I had a 280h cam that was 480 lift on both intake and exhaust and 280 duration and no stall with a 700r4 trans 3.36 gears with a 750 holley carb and a victor jr single plane intake and ran 13.00 AT 105 MPH with a 100 shot of nitrous ran 12.03 at 118mph. So just try what ya have and if ya are looking for a monster of a motor or crazy power then go from what ya have learned the first time around. The car was a blast to drive on the street that way.

The easy way to start to pick a cam is going by the recomended rpm range of your cam... if you look at most cam specs some say must use at least a 3000 stall .. your using a stock motor so the stock one should be fine .. but if you want to do any kind of drag racing or even leave the line a little harder try a 2000... to 2400 stall.. my z has a 2800 to 3200 stall and drives fine on the street and does not over heat the trans at all....

I have a welded R180 min my 240 with a sbc and an automatic .. Mainly a drag car works great for that as for spot welding it .. well that won't hold up.. i welded the spider gears to eachother as well as to the carrier ..... has not broke yet but there is an anoying vibration ya can feel that started as soon as i welded it .. I did see ya said ya wanna drift with the car... i have had mine out in a few parking lots just messing around and the welded diff has no prob tossing the rear of the car around.....just for fun i took off the drag radials and have some pep boys cheap tires on it and man it is fun .. just touch the gas at all for instant smoke show

Thanks for the part number .. i called and i can have them in about 4 days .. not to mention i have never heard of carquest before ... and there is one about 4 miles from me ..

Yeah i sent back the joints to motosport. and hit the junk yard and found some nice stock ones .. they seem to work fine for now and my originals are at a driveline shop so the guy can try to come up with something stronger.. thankis for the info on the spicer ones.. i did find on a mark williams web site that makes driveline components that the ones motorsport is selling for 50 bucks each are only 25 each on his site for the same part number .. but they don't fit anyway

Well i got to the local junk yard today and found a few z's and got ahold of some stock half shafts with original joints .. put them in the car and all the clunking i had with the brand new kragen auto joints in is now gone ... i also found a 280zx turbo so was gonna get the diff out of that .. but have read on here a few times the turbo diff is not a good choice ...it is also an automatic turbo car..

http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/departid.aspx?part=5-1505X This is a parts identifying page.. i put in the part number on the u joints and it shows they are Spicer ...5-1505x . so i guess they do make u joints for imports...

Does anyone have a part number for the Nissan u joints for the half shafts ?

Has anyone had a prob with the spicer u joints for the half shafts not fit as in the cups are to small for the holes? i just got a set and one out of 4 fit the other 3 have the same number on the box but the part number on the joint is different . the 5w ones are to small .. part number 5-1505x.. and they have grease fittings i was told the spicer joints are stronger due to non greasable ..

(What pistons and rings would be good for a blower aplicaition ? ) Well forged is the only way to go .. my crate motor i am running now is hyper whatever they are ... i do have a small amount of NOS but to go more i really need forged pistons ... and i have a nice 76mm turbo sitting here that can't go on due to the same prob.. even if ya don't need the forged stuff the difference in money is not that bad so do it and down the road ya will already be set up for what ya wanna throw on the motor

Ya know on the leak down test ya do never know if it is rings or the valves. i had what i thought was 70% blow by with my turbo set up and i had new pistons and rings put in it after the machine work was done .. and guess what still had the bad leak down test .. it was the valve guides.. also i was wondering is this blower on cast or hyperuseless pistons or did you get a crate motor with forged pistons ..

There is a guy where i live that comes to the car shows all the time with that set up in a roadster.. looks cool said it isn't much faster than it was with one motor and gets real bad mileage..lol unless ya are just doing it to be different ... ya will have alot of torque.. and break the shaft they have them together with .. there is a shop that sells the adapter to hook them togetherdon't know tha name anymore but can always ask the guy that has it .

I have the hyper whatever pistons in my motor i run an nos 125 shot ..i use 100 octane unleaded in a 1 gal fuel cell and an electric pump set at 6 psi.. gives me about 90 hp at the wheels on the dyno... have run over 20 .. 10 lbs bottles thru the motor and so far everything is fine .. going rich on the system is a bad idea .. most nitrous problems are caused due to rich settings and on that ya make the power from the fuel not the n2o it just makes the fuel burn .... buy a system and just follow the instructions on jetting and get to a dyno or some place ya can check the air fuel mixture and keep it in the mid 12.5 on spray .. and as for the ignition retard i still have an over all of 33 i took away about 2 degrees of timing to use the nos ...

The vid shows his speed at 116 he states 2600 lbs to run that spped he has 310 hp at the rear wheels.. give or take 5 hp either way .. using this same method i was 3 hp off mine when i took it to a dyno ... power speed calculators really work .....and not the ones online the hand help card board ones ...lol

Yeah i won't be driving it till i fix that ..lol kinda a rough ride also ..thanks i will go read some of the post still don't understand how they can pull down when it should have come thru the top.. and my 60' times are only in the high 1.60s

I have a 240z with a SBC about 450 hp at the wheels ..... sat at the track after about the 3rd or 4th burnout the car started to get real bad wheel hop.... not on the launch just in the burnout box .. was so bad i could not do a burn out .. pulled back to the pits lifted the car and nothing looked wrong so i mad a sot pass no burnout and the car went fine...... went abck to the box and tried again same bad hop.... then i noticed the rear shocks at the point they come into the rear of the car that they were way down in the hole under the little caps....it looks like the washer that is under the nut pulled thru the rubber and now the nut and washer are below that giving the rear shock about an inch and a half of play .. does anyone have any idea what could have done that .. rubber is not rotten all new and soft and the washer is almost as big around as the rubberint there...

Thanks .. at that track making a pass to the finish is good ..lol best 60' at lacr on those tires was a 1.68 some day i will try using the N.O.S out of the hole instead of second gear..

I am running the stock 180 and everything else stock behind my v8 in my 70 240z .. works fine with a 700rv and a 3200 stall and drag radials

actually mine is the stock 180 that came in the car..... blew appart the spider gears after about a year of taking it to the track.. made my own spool for it seems to work fine just waiting for a shaft to break now ... as for the main question on this one . about the head swap and fuel .. when i did my last motor i changed the heads to a larger port and also the intake .. it was so lean it would not even rev over 4000...... i cheat now i use a wide band to tune .. no more guessing .. i would add some fuel also you may need a larger pump shot on your accelerator pump.. if it is doing the hesitation right off idle

You need more fuel..

About the srt4 neon being fast ..lol well depends on what ya compare that to .... there must be at least 20 around my home town .. one actually has alot of work like 60mm turbo 3 inch exhasust.. custom intake stand alone computer and with slicks he went a whole 12.28 at 117 mph.. but hey i got my 100 bucks outa him with ease.. just think with the car and mods he is over 30 grand i had a whole 3 grand into the car and killed him .. thats gotta suck for someone ..lol

I have these fast burn heads.... i have tried an Edelbrock performer dual plane .. it was fine .. now using a victor jr single plane .. picked up top end power but lost about 15 on the bottom .. below 2500rpm .. i just ordered the intake GM suggest for use with the heads ...it is Eliminator GM part number 12497698.. the main thing with these fast burn heads is the gasket ... only the gm gaskets fit the correct way .. tried felpro and they leak on the top of the ports.the gasket that fit perfect was gm 12497760.. the ports on the fast burn heads are about an 1/8 inch taller than on a victor jr intake that has no porting done to it at all.. as soon as i get the new intake on and dyno i will post the resultts compared to the other 2 intakes i have tried....

not the carb .. just the jets .. try going larger on the main juts by like 2 sizes and maybe 2 or 3 in the secondary jets.. easy to try and if it revs up after that then tune it from there..

Tha car is to lean at the top end thats why it won't rev up.. my old 350 did this when i went to 1.6 rockers adn dual exhaust at the same time .. it was fine in the driveway but as soon as you drove it at a little over 4000 rpm it fell on its face adn didn't rev anymore just kinda stuck there..... went richer on the secondary mains by about 3 jet sizes and it works perfect now.. not to mention the wide band 02 showed it at 15.1 when it did that ..

.. so do ya think that would fit .. that would be cool