toolman

Richard, Love to see more information and pictures of your beautiful project car when you have the time. Sunny

The car was p[aced on its side to remove rear undercoating. This area is really tight to remove the undercoating. Mostly the undercoating had to heated with the heat gun then hand scraped off. The air scraper was used only on large open areas. After scrapping was done, the 4 1/2 grinder with wire wheel removed most of the remaining underseal.Then the area was media blasted with Number #60 grit abrasive. This media is one step rougher to remove heavy underseal in tight areas. Even so, I had media blast this area several times to do a decent job.

I needed more room to better job sandblasting so blocked off the front hatch area.Put a large plywood to hold up the blue tarp covering the open hatch area.Richard, the spare tire area was cleaned. Saved for now. After blasting, all seams were clean out and spot welded. This area will be primed with self etching primer to prevent corrosion.

Hatch section was masked off carboard,plastic sheets. duct tape and plywood to control sandblasting. Used a plywood sheet to lay down on to do the sandblasting. It was tight and hard to move around and blast. After blasting, still more cleaning necessary. I haven't decided about the tire well yet. But am leaning to remove it and replace it with a fuel cell.

Decided to beef up the seat mounts and keep them off the floor to prevent corrosion. I utilized 1" square box tubing with reinforcing plates on each end. Even if I go to different seats, these mounts should be a good base to start with. driver's side mounts passenger's mounts. Thanks Richard, most people don't realize how much work is actually involved in this type of build.

Tools used for undercoat and paint removal The Veteran Day holiday provide me additonal time to work on my car. I tack welded all of the seams in and out of the engine compartment,Strut tower also welded, A 4 1/2 electricgrinder with twisted wire cup brush was used befotre blasting. The interior of the car masked off so the compartment could be media blasted whjile keeping most media inside the car. All open holes in firewall were masked off using duct tape. The windshield area was covered with large pieces of cardboard. Canvas and plastic sheeting covered doors and hatch areas. Face respirator and face shield were used when media blasting. In this case, 80 grit abrasive was utilized. I used a large wet/dry SHOP VAV to recover the media and reuse the media. A wire mesh filtered the recovered media before reusing.. self etching primer applied to prevent corrosion, The 16 gauge plates above the frame railings reinforce the floor panels.

One of the reasons that I went to the SEMA Show 2017 was to check on the latest LS motors. This motor is the LS376/480 the updated version of the LS3. It basically has a cam change. the motor produces 495HP and 473 ft lbs of torque. Perfect for me. .This Chevrolet High Performance manual has all necessary part numbers to build and install their motors in almost any car or truck. It gives even measurements for engine and its accessories(air conditioning,power steering,etc).i choose files...Click to choose files.url

Back to the Build. wire brushed the cowl area but vent must be removed to clean area around vent box. So vent cover was carefully removed.After cleaning , area was primed with self-etching primer to prevent rust before media blasting.Driver side cowl after priming. Vent cover after sand blasting and painting with weld thu primer

IMG_1912.MOV Just returned from the SEMA SHOW in Las Vegas. The ROAD KILL 71 240Z with Mustang 5.0 with Ford truck turbo blowing thu Holley carb. Low budget build but with a lot of fabrication work. IMG_1903.MOV A clean Z car with fender flares E we Bored out motor with Weber carbs Wide flared 240Z car. Someone told me that there was a early Z with a Skyline twin cam motor but I must have missed it. There were hundreds of cars and trucks to see at the show.

First pic is top view of restored battery holder. Second is the bottom view of the holder. The third pic is the battery holder "test fitted". I still have not decided whether to install the holder or a marine type of battery box in the rear of car. The last pic is the firewall after I plugged unnecessary holes.