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toolman

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Posts posted by toolman

  1. ShawnM,   I glad you enjoyed the videos.   Did you notice that a lot of the metal fabrication tools (such as sheet metal bender, bead roller, English Wheel, etc) are brand new.  The videos even show the boxes that they came in.  The equipment was Made in USA, too.    As my Father owned a Body Shop, I can tell that their workmanship is High Quality and would recommend that Body Shop to restore a 240Z.    Please bear with lack of English Subtitles, later

    Episodes will have more English Subtitles!!!

                                                                                  Toolman

  2.  

    .

     

     

      I just returned from Tokyo, Japan today.   While there, I found this video on YouTube.com-JP    It was one of the Best Video Restoration of S30 Datsun Fair Lady car .   Although it is mostly in Japanese, the video shows in great detail of the restoration process.  The videos comes in 39 parts so I will try to divide the videos up into sections.   Then you can just go to the restoration part that you may be interested in.

         Part 1-Painting Stripping, Abrasive Blasting (normally 80 Grit),Epoxy Priming the Bare Sheet Metal.   This process gives the Bodyman the True Condition of the Car Body.   Then he can start ordering either Repro Parts or Junk yard parts.  As this car is over 50 years old, finding even Junk yard parts would lucky. So, a lot of sheet metal must be fabricated by hand.

      *NOTE-Press "Escape Key" to exit end of video.

     

    PART 2-Test Fitting of Replacement Panels and Hand Fabricating the Parts that could not be found.

     

     

    Part 3-  Abrasive Blasting Individual Parts and Replacing Floor Panels 

     

    Part 5   Welding Front Frame Rails

    A Professional Induction Spot Weld was used to weld up the Front Frame Rails.   A 180Amp Mig Welder could be used as a substitute.  This would be a good time to think about using a good welding primer that will be welded(spot or mig) to prevent corrosion caused by welding.   This treatment should be followed up with a corrosion resistant spray after finish painting the vehicle.

    Additionally, Drilling Rust Proofing holes and plugs will allow the spray to go where the factory box panels didn't.

     

    Part 6-Fabricating Wheel Housing Panels

     

    Part7- Replacing Front Door Skins and Lead Soldering Small Rust Damage

     

     

    Part 8-Repaiing Front Fenders and Rear Quarter Panels

     

    Part 9-Repairing Rear Quarter Panels-interior and exterior

     

     

    Part 10-Repairing Rear Back Panel

     

    Part 11-Repairing Inner Hatch Deck and Taillight Housing Area and Repairing Wheel Housing

     

     

    Part 12-Repairing Side rocker Panels and Tail Light Housing Area

    -

     

    Part 13-Replacing Side Rocker

     

     

    *NOTE- After watching these videos, you may think Japan Body Shops are primitive compared to

    American Body Shops.   The real reason is that Japan has a very strict Vehicle Safety Code.  It is

    so strict that most cars have only a 5 year life especially in urban areas( Tokyo, Osaka,etc).  Scrap

    Yards in Japan are full of seemly good condition vehicles that can not driven on Japanese roads.

    Japan Body Shops have a huge supply of ":used parts".   So much, they can order replacement 

    parts such as car door in the exact factory color needed.  As most cars are only 5 years old and 

    under strict safety standards, there is no market to do corrosion repair except for those people

    will to pay the big dollars to restore popular cars.   I could not believe this fact till I saw stacks of

    "perfectly good cars" with no collision damage on them in the junkyards of Japan.

     

    Part 14-REplacing Rear Quarter Panel

     

    Part 15-Repairing Rear Panel.

    .

     

    Part-16-Reparing Front Crossmember

     

    Part 17-240Z on Frame Machine to check Frame Alignment and pulling the Frame to put it

    in specifications.

     

    The Left Side (Strut Tower) is bent in about 1/2" so they pulled it with a Hydraulic 10 Ton Ram.

    This was only small damage to the frame but would affect Toe -in, Camber and Caster Specifications.

     

    Part 18-Repairing Front Frame Rail Inner Structure

     

    Part 19-More Frame Repair Work

     

    Part 20-Fabricating Front Crossmember Panel

     

     This Video demonstrates creating Contours on Sheetmetal with only Hand Tools.

     

    -

     

     

     

     

     

     

  3. SEMA SHOW LAS VEGAS ,NV  Nov. 1 to Nov. 4, 2023

     

         I went to the Sema Show from Monday to Thursday.    Because of Covid, I missed going to Two previous Shows.

    This years Sema Show was Huge in size.   The Show now occupies the whole Las  Vegas Convention Hall area plus

    all the outside area of the major Halls.   Also, They built a Giant Building called the West Hall that was the Convention 

    Hall Parking Lots.   So the Hotel Shuttle Buses dropped Attendees about 400 yards from the Convention Property.

       I was so tired from walking around the Show and must have walked 4 miles each day.   I tried to take pics of Nissan

    and some other JDM Cars for you guys.   Please forgive me if I could not remember all the car descriptions to go with

    the pics.

         Pics  from the outside of the  Main Show Halls:

     

     

     

    IMG_4950.JPG.561a7ac17f1df9a54180be0e31261003.JPG

     

     

    IMG_4951.JPG.f8e3c2e928a6e842ef7b6d8950c82f5b.JPG

     

    295377071_IMG_4944(1).JPG.b35b63c978603a70df22a52f8f0abe95.JPG

     

    Crowd of people watching Live Burn Outs and Optima Street Car Races,

     

    Inside the Halls

       Computer Guided Upholstery Sewing Machine

    1455239338_IMG_4887(1).JPG.127ac751c701eed090f55550db4ec6af.JPG

     

     

    Lowered Nissan 370Z

    IMG_4888.JPG.89339c27f83e40760f650ae3ae36af48.JPG

     

    Dodge Charger with a 392 Late Model Hemi with Twin Turbochargers

    1945376637_IMG_4899(1).JPG.52c46f05ce8e4cb740ff3a5a3392c759.JPG

     

    Electronic Controlled Mufflers which Driver could control the Exhaust Sound.

    533447136_IMG_4900(1).JPG.4c1ebe719361866e926953613974e684.JPG

     

     

     

      Drifting VIDEO-    

     

     

    1500 HP   5.9 Cummins 24 valve turbocharged motor

    IMG_4905.JPG

     

     

    Drifting Demos in Exhibition Area

     

    ttps://www.youtube.com/shorts/IgrRcIZNwas

     

     

     Custom Made 4 Rotor Mazda Race Car

    IMG_4896.JPG.7ee7fb90fdf6e614d34e0db929d2d4a2.JPG

     

    Driver Seat area

     

     

    This Mazda puts out 2000 HP and costs $500,000 to build!!!!!!!!!

    IMG_4898.JPG.9554244001a73af9a125eb7b6c728c42.JPG

     

     

     

    Skyline with Full Liberty Walk Body Kit

    IMG_E4913.JPG.b45f1c41d596d7de9ed15b6ce0bc6504.JPG

     

     

    Skyline with RB30 with Huge Turbo

    IMG_E4926.JPG.fe4cc744be1d61eabea217c9476afc6e.JPG

     

     

    Traxxas had a huge Rock Climbing display where people could try driving RC Four Wheel vehicles 

    on it.

    IMG_4933.JPG.9a725f65a99f1346ebdf0946b0d1e5fa.JPG

     

     

    B is for the Build had a Lambo wit Twin Turboed LS motor with Carbon Fiber Body Panels.

    IMG_E4937.JPG.8725fa9a9ceecb8264d7d1c428757504.JPG

     

     

    This Purple 240Z with LS9 Sugercharged Motor was one of about a dozen cars in the Optima Ulimate Street Csr Races.

     

    IMG_E4943.JPG.bdfb5ebd689898f24cb2403e9552f11d.JPG

     

    IMG_E4942.JPG.7c9ba6959bf58a7603c89564f36f4c8f.JPG

     

     

    an Older Nissan Skyline

    IMG_E4892.JPG.47c7c90a065bac7a6e538c6b8f95bde6.JPG

     

    IMG_E4891.JPG.213a6ef1ab2d1f1057d2b8b71dbe6b74.JPG

     

    Beautiful Leather Interiot in the Toyo Tires Booth

    IMG_E4923.JPG.2125d84402bcd3a9ef45f21dcfebefe5.JPG

     

     

    240Z Motor Compartment

    IMG_4922.JPG.e105c3465cca5e167c53ad20a45e13c7.JPG

     

    exerior of the 240Z

    IMG_4924.JPG.9b6d8ffdcf7bad3211223f46c06ee2bb.JPG

     

    Another Build for the Build Project Formula Race Car

    2144340920_IMG_4936(1).JPG.1edc023caad7f6616e7319517354aa85.JPG

     

     

    BMW with a one of its kind V-12 motor Mercedes V12 motor.

    IMG_E4925.JPG.560a86b90a33dc0a6b7cef1a867c5d46.JPG

     

     A Wild Custom A Single UTV Built on Top of Two Big Jet Skis

    48299415_IMG_4918(1).JPG.cd424118fc5b15c9822d53eef2b1d62f.JPG

     

    Closup up the Frame between the UTV and the Two Jet Skis

    IMG_4919.JPG.711eb28092025bbfe927a9f68fe70857.JPG

     

    !970  Datsun Restro BRE Race Car

    IMG_4908.JPG.621f3d401d15061f1fe1ede32de267e7.JPG

     

     

    Another LS Swaped JDM Race car

     

     

     

     

    Hand crafted all Alumunim BMB with Suicide Frant Doors

    IMG_4912.JPG.798f4542329786c24a9b5a2f8da3d692.JPG

     

     

     

     

     

    IMG_4920.JPG.1c6e6fb1f0349386e69cb768b6a80a55.JPG

     

     

     

    Artist used  Marker Pen to decorate this car.

    IMG_4932.JPG.0fbe48b25f22895f70cf4a968390c76a.JPG

     

     

     Next-Back to Finishing Air Condimtioning Installation

     

     

    I will be heading to Tokyo so the next posting maybe  after Xmas so Happy Holidays to You and Yours111111

     

     

     

     

     

     

    IMG_4910.JPG

  4. Before I go to Air Conditioning  Installation.  The construction of the Rear Tow Bracket will be covered.  A Rear Tow Bracket is a necessity to hold the vehicle securely when towing the car with a Flat Bed Tow Truck.   The Bracket also comes in handy if you ever end up in a ditch.

       Started off by Constructing a Card Board Template .

    IMG_4794.JPG.accf59009ce2060c2c324518e1b9e70f.JPG

     

    The Bracket will be cut out of !/4" Mild Steel Plate with a Plasma Cutter.   Then Finished Shaped with a 4 1/2" Angle Grinder.

    IMG_4795.JPG.8e82f6e0c3c59e518f54526cb34a83f3.JPG

     

    The Bracket was then Powder Coated RED.

    IMG_4805.JPG.e8368e48554af61e08b337c96d89b6d7.JPG  

     

    It was installed on top of the Factory Rear Bumper Bracket.

    IMG_4806.JPG.3054a91b04da6db36efef959781871d0.JPG

     

    Rear View of the Rear Tow Bracket.

     

    Air Conditioning Installation

     

         There are many  ways to install Air Conditioning in a 240Z.   Since I had constructed my own engine mounts, most After Market AC Compressor Mounts interfered with my Custom Made Motor Mounts..

    Dirty Dingo Mount Kit was one example of these kits.

    IMG_4520.JPG.e8da5c844e32742ce08b13fab7f5bbe2.JPG

     

    ITC Billet was another kit that would not work with my mounts.

     

    Kwik Performance #L10291 Air Compressor Mounting Kit that located the compressor in front of the Right Side Cylinder Head.   Also, the Location was not too high like many After Market Kits.   Because of the 240Z Low Hood Configuration,  clearance  would be a problem.   But, using the Kwik Performance Kit would require replacement of the Water Pump and

    Harmonic Balancer(about $236 additional cost on top of $230 Kit cost).    These parts were required to move the Serpentine Belt ! 1/2" Forward.

    AC Delco Water Pump # 252-976 from   $156-Amazon was used.

    IMG_4772.JPG.cc7ffaa51b3089ddab736c2ea49226b4.JPG   Note- 1 1/2" height differance

     

    AC Delco Harmonic Balancer #19300488   from Amazom  $85

    IMG_4756.JPG.dd74cf2b9e65de03dc44b38d3ea382cc.JPG

     

    Also, Note - 1 1/2" height differance

     

    LS Harmonic Balancers require a 3 Jaw Type Puller to remove the Balancer from the Crankshaft.

    This is because LS Balancers do not have any Pulling Threaded Holes and also require a Spacer 

    Rod under the Puller Screw.   If you do not have one, some Part Stores have them to Rent Out.

     

    Also, A Harmonic Balancer Installation Tool

    IMG_E4755.JPG.9385168bdd84f1ae9675ec6f1b6d061f.JPG Note-Spacer Rods under Puller

     

    A Harmonic Installation Tool will be necessary to install the New Harmonic Balancer on the crankshaft.  Using a heavy hammer to install the balancer can damage the Rubber Inert

    Ring in the Balancer.

    IMG_4839.JPG.2b1572433bc0ed61cffd4d600698ba7f.JPG

     

     

    i will continue this AC Installation Process later as I am leaving for the SEMA SHOW in Las Vegas

    this weekend.  I will post pics from the show when I return.

     

  5. Preparing for Local Car Show-

        There was a Local car Show in my area on Labor Day.   Everybody was encouraging me to enter my 240Z in it.

    But, there was still a lot of work to make it even decent.

     

    Installing the Interior Carpet-

         Interior Innovations  provided a Full Eight Piece Precut Carpet for about  $700.   The fitting was good and was made of Good Materials.   I had to decide which method to fasten the carpeting to

    the metal floor.   Went to Home Depot and found Double Sided Industrial Grade Velco tape (cost $30).   So No Drilling and Screws were used.

    IMG_4786.JPG.4fd8450368164431b3a4a94a0c419839.JPG

     

    Epoxy Adhesive was used the hold the Velco Tape down.

    Passenger Door Panel-

    IMG_4783.JPG.0b574f79e67d3b64c9c8fc9206e5a336.JPG

     

    Driver Side Door Panel-

    IMG_4784.JPG.782d0bb190f6147a3bb358dea31792f9.JPG

     

    Passenger Side Carpeting-

    IMG_4777.JPG.017b62e5ada3fe560f08bc65e8371488.JPG

     

    Fabricating Front Tow Hitch-

         As this car is lowered, In case when the car would need to towed, the normal method of

    sliding a tire lift under the car would not be possible.  The Fiberglass Air Dam is in the way.

    So Towing on a Flat Bed Towing would be mostly likely method available.   But, you still a way

    to hook up the car to winch it aboard.   So I decided to fabricate a Front Tow Hitch.

       the Hitch was constructed of !/4" Steel Plate and bolted to the front frame rail.

    IMG_E4664.JPG.7abda18a55041fa422d1b19910dfe417.JPG

     

    Hitch was bolted to the Frame RailIMG_E4666.JPG.6c17f6e08b4718a8b11dfd408bf574be.JPG

     

    The Tow Hitch sticks through the Front Air Dam under the Bumper.

    IMG_4665.JPG.fb22d58ae2a94727e7778fd889234666.JPG

     

    The Labor Day Car Show-

        There were about 400 assorted cars at the Show.   Everything from 32 Roadsters, 57 Chevys,

    Cobra Cars, Blown Gassers, VWs, Camaros, Corvettes, Vipers, Hell Cats, Low Riders, etc were there.  

     

    MLZU0179.JPG

     

    00000718.JPG.c94665b4c6cfd1c6263dad68e7506273.JPG

     

    I spent most of the time there, telling people "What kind of Car it was?  - !971 Datsun 240z

    What is a Datsun?   Nissan introduce their Brand New Car Line as "Datsun".  There were even some

    Japanese Tourists asking questions about my "FairLady"( name of the.. 240Z in Japan).  I did not

    have time to even walk around and check out the other cars at the show.   But my car and I were luck to be filmed for an upcoming  Local TV Car Show.

     

    IMG_4781.JPG.f8099604952be227f7164f544ca8f1f2.JPG

     

     

    00000721.JPG.ba968249721e674bd34328780d0a7183.JPG

     

    00000725.JPG.16c2f4b9a558fa38cb32229c4636292a.JPG

     

    00000726.JPG.3d1873ba983c68cbda7f39010f9d93b8.JPG

     

    00000730.JPG.8ec2f6e6862fe2ef14f348dcc41ca952.JPG

     

    Here are some Black and White Versions of the Pics.   Black and White Photos really gives a 

    Restro Mod Feeling.

     

    00000727.JPG.4ffc3bc6e1aa4c9e41e58cc2073c670d.JPG

     

    00000724.JPG.9018bf215ea7428174de3107e27e3deb.JPG

     

     

     

    Next-Air Conditioning installation

  6.   Sorry for not posting in a while but I was rushing to get my 240Z finished enough to put it in a local car show.  There were some more things to do in a short amount of time.   

       Anyway, back to posting-

         Door Panel Repairs-

          Both Door Panels needed to refinish the original  Horizontal Chrome Trim on the upper side of the panel.   See pic below.

    IMG_4611.JPG.1dd8bc3b1eee09e08e59c04d9f100460.JPG

     

    To repair this, I purchased 1/4" Chrome Pinstriping Tape from Amazon( for $6).    

    IMG_4607.JPG.1d38e58f3add77b0b1b57bf5346bb224.JPG

     

    First, I used a small paint brush to apply a layer of Contact Cement on the Trim Piece.

    IMG_E4606.JPG.23c30a8ae80b99f49ebf7ce93b62402c.JPG

     

    Allow the Contact Cement to dry to the touch before applying the Chrome Tape.

    Apply the Tape lightly first then checking it for straightness before pressing it down with your index finger.

    IMG_4608.JPG.4aa8dbb0814cb7c017444568a455eaad.JPG

    Trim ends with a Single Edge Razor or Razor Knife.

    IMG_4613.JPG.80ebff3fa845d8ae9d95077f3b8ad089.JPG

     

    Closeup view of the Repaired Chrome Trim Moulding.

     

    This repair method can also be used on Door Arm Rests.

    IMG_E4667.JPG.953d279398147cfbe49234c9d5bbd565.JPG

     

    IMG_E4672.JPG.7dc9289ff68db2549c4e2a8af0b8b81d.JPG

     

     

    IMG_E4672.JPG.7dc9289ff68db2549c4e2a8af0b8b81d.JPG

     

    Using Velco Heat Sleeves-

      Velco Heat Sleeves were used to protect electrical wires near the exhaust from burning,

    Cutting the Sleeves will allow the Velco pieces to unravel as they are only sewn on.  so I use a Hot

    Glue to fasten the Velco Tape on.

    IMG_4381.JPG.26de67ffca4e2b6561a74f9c0e0233cf.JPG

     

    Heat Velco Sleeve put on Starter Wiring near the Exhaust.

    IMG_4384.JPG.575cdf9015ecc5f73358befe7ef9f47c.JPG

     

    Velco Heat Sleeve on Oil Pressure Sensor Wiring.

    IMG_4453.JPG.e8f81e9691143a2e917f3e2c99d0b2a9.JPG

     

     

     

    Holley 3.5" LED DISPLAY SCREEN-one of three possible screen layouts available.

     

    ELECTRIC POWER STEERING in OPERATION-

    Note - Easy turning of Steering Wheel with 11" wheels and 285/17 tires.

     

    LS3 First START UP-Sounded Great!

     

     

    Next-CAR SHOW APPEARANCE

    • Like 1
  7. Removing Fuel Sender unit-

       To Check your Fuel Tank Sender Unit Electrically, you must remove the Unit from the Fuel Tank.  First, you must remove the Passenger Side Strap as it is right over the sender unit.   If the Tank is relatively empty, the Drive side strap alone will hold the tank up.   Now, you can remove fuel from the tank so when you remove the sender, fuel doesn't leak on you.  To

    remove the sender, most people use a screwdriver and small hammer to tap the sender tabs to release the locking ring.

    I decided to make a Sender Removal Tool as the tool will make installation easier.

         Using a Hacksaw, I cut about 1 1/2" section from a 2" exhaust pipe.

    IMG_4483.JPG.3ea53398dfe39891b286498321417657.JPG

     

      Then,I cut Four Slots into one end of the tubing.

    IMG_4484.JPG.5a13ae9cb8e1d753cf400eb00b4e34b1.JPGSender Locking Ring and Removal Tool

     

    The slots were cut and bent 90 degrees to fit the Locking Ring.  A crossbar was added so a 3/8" socket could welded on to aid in sender installation.

    IMG_4485.JPG.5dfedc58bf21efdd7ac6afd3ca7285c8.JPG 

     

    Fuel Sender Removal Tool was painted Gloss Black.

    IMG_4488.JPG.ed5514aa017519e26de59b2799d72721.JPG

     

     

    Testing the Fuel Tank Sender Unit-

        The Sender Unit can be tested tested electrically using an OHM Meter.   Place the two Leads on

    Sender- Yellow and Blacl-ground wires.

            Empty Reading should have about a 3.7 OHM reading

            Half Tank Reading should have about a  32.0 OHM reading

            Full Tank Reading should have about a 86.4 OHM reading

     

    Adjusting the Fuel Sender-

            Id the Fuel Sender has to be Bent alot, the Arm can be removed to prevent unit damage.

    IMG_4481.JPG.78af2101d480546589af70abc7c2b522.JPGLoosening this screw with a Phillips Screwdriver.

     

    Bending the Upper Arm Stop will effect the Full Reading

    IMG_4486.JPG.b84b86ae3c67c04d91f0c90a270ae666.JPG

     

     

    Bending the Lower Arm Stop will effect the Empty Reading.

    IMG_4479.JPG.5105c74c64886fe5be29f3542c4c1b7e.JPG

     

     

    Next-Starting Car Up

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  8. Walkerbk,

         Yes, I had to trim the back area of the Tocket Bunny Flare to provide tire clearance when turning.   I tried to

    maintain  at least 1/2" clearance between flare and tire during the full tire movement.   I think this tire clearance also

    allows for body roll too. 

                                                                     Toolman

  9. WHEELS AND TIRES-

         The Wheels that I selected were custom made by Love20Bee in Los Angeles.  They specialize in custom wheels especially for JDM cars.   

    I wanted Watanabe Insets with deep offset wheel barrels.   The owner  has several 240Z himself.

        The Front Tires are Nitto G2 285/40/17 with 11" Tread Width.

    IMG_3603.JPG.9409b00dda155195ff8fdabd03f9b217.JPG

     

     The Rear Tires are 315/40/14 with Thread Width of 12"

     

    IMG_E3606.JPG.5078747ee076dc3c6f7e2178d731fc50.JPG

     

    The Wheels are Custom Made with Watanabe Inserts(with Dark Grey Metallic Spokes) with 11" Wide barrel in the Front and 12" Barrels in the Rear.

    IMG_E3614.JPG.dd7f001c51f7e57bfaa1f638ff561ddc.JPG Checking for Leaks.

     

    Wheels and Tires Installed.

     

    Rear Wheel

    l

     

    Front Wheel

    IMG_E4466.JPG.a186922406674f269d34efddfd2071b7.JPG

     

    Cutting Rocket Flares for Tire Clearance-

     

         The Greddy Rocket Bunny Flares had to be cut because of the Deep Wheel Offeset for Tire

    Clearance.

        Front Flares before Cutting.

    IMG_4436.JPG.fa0ea369126ffcd602252d01b6fd7dc3.JPG  Note-Without cutting, Tires could not turn.

     

    Inside view of Front Flare before Cutting-clearance.

    IMG_E4388.JPG.4ebeeb59d849c3128eba0de85d523fcf.JPG About 3" had to removed for Clearance.

     

    Rear of Front Tire Clearance

    IMG_4437.JPG.5a9ba5e7cf9205a8934a929d4f9e0860.JPG After Frontr Cutting

     

    View of Front Tire

      IMG_E4468.JPG.166a157d02f869f8ba22c7609df45cbd.JPG  View of Front Tire

     

    View of Rear Tire

    IMG_E4469.JPG.49529df91125ec24e5bb9e24481e9256.JPGRear Tire Front View

     

    IMG_E4471.JPG.4c1acb9b84ecac4498755cf4dc2f60c5.JPG Rear View of Rear Tire

     

    IMG_E4473.JPG.8a8ff02e525ccd20682fa9bed8962909.JPG Top  View of Rear Flare

     

    Rear Tire Clearance with Muffler/Exhaust Pipes.

    IMG_E4462.JPG.8e57875ee67dce5e5db6bc7723c7d209.JPG    Inside View of Tire Clearance.

     

    Full Right Turn

     

    IMG_4477.JPG.28f0efb2704c62c88112409746e8d8e8.JPG

     

    Side View of Car

    IMG_4476.JPG.ca3ddd71fd9b15420327265cd1b167bc.JPG

     

    Four Watanabe Wheels (Polished lips and Gun Metal Spoked Face---$4000.00

          Love20BEE                                                                           2nd Day UPS Freight    240.00

    Four Nitto G2 285 and 315/17 tires (Amazon)                                                             860.00

                                                                                                                         __________

                                                                                                            Total    $5510.00

     

     

     

  10. Finishing the Exhaust System-

        The Two Rear 2 1/4" Exhaust Pipes make  Right Angles heading to the Mufflers.

    IMG_E4443.JPG.2b889be36f5c3c6a60ed6d7902a63e95.JPG

     

    Midway to the Mufflers, V-Clamps connect the pipe to the Mufflers.

     

     

    Rear View of Rear Exhaust Pipes with V-Clamps.

    IMG_4445.JPG.6f4e546078d6a24bcccbfb8cce43d0da.JPG

     

    Exhaust Pipes are welded directly to Mufflers to provide clearance for the  rear tires.

    IMG_4446.JPG.df37ba2d37b4b6d8bee31f9bc24d0904.JPG

     

        I welded the Two Thrush Hush Turbo 2 1/4" Mufflers together.   Note the straight 1/2" Steel Rods  are the Upper Muffler Hangers.

    IMG_E2932.JPG.57d2de66ef823eaa4881a2ff7e1b9ec9.JPG

     

    The Forward Muffler Hanger is bolts to the Rear Deck Floor Pan.  Two Rubber Mounts are used because they will be supporting Two Mufflers.

    IMG_2936.JPG.3f4c15a8873bfbd20e19957495b09dd2.JPG

     

    The Rear Muffler Mounts are also bolts to the floor pan,   Two Rubber Mufflers Hangers are also use to support the mufflers.

    IMG_2942.JPG.0ef7eafa8fa537cfa231f976c58a2c31.JPG

     

    Pic of the Rubber Hangers seperately.

    IMG_2931.JPG.5b68efe1de96659d29891f52ec5c08fe.JPG

     

    The Two Mufflers can easily installed by pushing the Steel Stud into the Rear Mufflers.   Then, lifting the Mufflers upward and pushing the Forward Rubber Mounts into the Forward Stud.   Then lifting the Mufflers and insert the 

    Flat section of the mounts onto the Floor Stud  Bolts.   With the Mufflers hanging from their mounts, you just have align the Two Muffler Exhaust Pipes to the Straight Exhaust Pipes under the Differential.   Then, install both V-Clamps.

    IMG_2929.JPG.2d89029a202feb66e58a8a48438505df.JPG   Both Mufflers Hanging up.

     

    Rear View of Mufflers Installed.

    IMG_E2902.JPG.9deaf3c02f6a938e55d962e04ff87488.JPG

     

    The Muffler Rear Exit Hole was completed with a little bodywork.   A 3/16" Brake Tubing was bent to form the 

    Muffler Exit Area shape.   It was tacked welded to the body then Polyurethane Seam Sealer was applied to seal

    the both edges of the brake tubing.   Body Filler was applied to smooth out the edge of the Muffler Exit.

    IMG_E4322.JPG.e05bb52eb464f96ef13a19131010dd50.JPG

     

    After sanding the body filler, the area was painted with White Polyuretane Paint.

     

     

    IMG_E4374.JPG.a8bb17ac30fa28a6b5186dc374c3daeb.JPG

     

    Repairing the Brake Light Socket in Dash Board

        The Brake Light Socket has a problem with its Grounding Connection.   It consists of a Tiny Strip of Brass that contacts the socket hole to make Ground.   This Ground Strip usually breaks off or becomes loose.   I used the Terminal Retaining Strip on a 6.3 Brass Terminal(See Pic below}

    IMG_4105.JPG.2dc0810343fb74e24e6e1b616444d1e3.JPG  Note-Small Terminal Retaining in the Terminal.

     

    IMG_4106.JPG.dcf1189ad0d9fe5f342f91bcae865019.JPG  Using a Small Electronics  Soldering Iron to solder the brass strip to the bulb socket.

     

    I tested the bulb on a piece of sheet metal with a 15mm hole to stimulate the dash board.IMG_4108.JPG.d6be8a69a7b4e6189ca0ffc8bf5c9210.JPG Testing the Ground Connection.

     

    IMG_4111.JPG.54ec59dae4f5ea3bd990199df8bb0ee6.JPG

    It Works!!

     

     

  11. Robo, Have you tried wheel spacers to overcome your caliper interference problems?    Baer Brakes has 4 X 114.3 spacers(.25",.375",.500",.625",.750",.875", 1.00") available

    for $70.   The inner diameter is 2.50" so you so might need give a little machining for original Z front hubs.  They made of Billet Aluminum so you can use them for racing if necessary.    Also, you would have to use extended wheel studs.   The total cost still would be minimum.   

                                                                                                                                     Toolman

     

    IMG_4413.JPG.8b766bc0c5d934ba565a63222ece9e92.JPG

  12. Led Flasher-

        I think I forgot to mention that if you are replacing the vehicle's incandescent light bulbs with LED Bulbs, you must use a LED Flasher.   If you don't. the turn signal and hazard lights will not blink and will stay solid.   This is because the LED bulbs will not draw sufficient amperage to cause the Flasher to heat up and blink.   I got mine from Amazon for about $12.   The Led Flasher came with an external ground lead too.

    707875259_IMG_4262(1).JPG.f02e294dd5d010b89132322dc4e29078.JPG

     

     

    Front Fiberglass Bumper-

        The Greddy Fiberglass Bumper that came with the Rocket Bunny Body Kit has just been laying on the bumper waiting for the finishing touches.

     

           Bumper reinforcement frame built from with 1" square steel tubing.

    IMG_3094.JPG.3fc13789048565622964806c1685511b.JPG

     

     

    The Fiberglass was first aligned with the front body panels.   Locitite Tile Foam was used temporarily to hold the

    bumper in alignment so I could fill it with Pour Foam.   But the bumper with reinforcement had to be placed in a level

    and vertical position with the front of bumper facing downward.   

    IMG_4305.JPG.96b3ede5f6063ad98df075dd9ffe18bf.JPG

    Shooting the Foam to just hold the Bumper and reinforcement in alignment.

     

    Pic of the Tite Foam after expansion, it was trimmed down.

    IMG_E4308.JPG.6322d4561a305c197f91064ffa7f018e.JPG

     

    Now. the Bumper was ready for the Pour Foam purchased from the local Marine Supply Store for $30).

    This Polyurethane Foam will fit the space between the reinforcement bar and the bumper.  This will create a solid bumper instead of just a hollow fiberglass shell.

    IMG_4328.JPG.778b6d3ed7ddadae6e4256bbdfd05bf0.JPG

     

    To use, mix equal parts( one to one ratio)  but you have only a very short time before the mixture will expand-only minutes.  The foam will expand to 5 or more times the original amount.   I would suggest that you mix only one spoon full to see how much

    the  Pour Foam does expand for the first time.   I made several pours instead of doing a single pour.  Once the Pour Foam fully expands, you can still immediately make the next pour.   I used a old hacksaw blade to trim the expanded Foam as it works better than a knife or razor blade.

    After triming and sanding the Foam to 3/4" from the edge of the bumper, I poured  Finishing

    Figerglass Resin over everthing inside on the bumper.   This will seal everthing up so water can not

    enter. This process  also will strengthen the bumper although it will create addition weight.  Then exterior of the bumper was painted with Gloss Black Polyurethane Paint then buffed.

    Back View of Left Side of Bumper

    IMG_E4432.JPG.0c286ba756cb4bb92531a174f70e3d8d.JPG

     

    Back View of Center Section of Bumper

    IMG_E4433.JPG.f632a3279115b04b7e65303973f1b32d.JPG

     

    Back View of Right Side of Bumper

    IMG_E4434.JPG.e3ce4958eaf5493fca25c1ff4429bc71.JPG

     

    Made two Wooden Stands to hold the Bumper in proper position for putting the Pour Foam into

    the Bumper Cavity.

    IMG_4309.JPG.e9eedf59677bda952a46b1063afb86f0.JPG

     

    Front View of Finished Bumper

    IMG_E4369.JPG.2031e80765daa866b3295ccc79b862dc.JPG

     

     

    IMG_E4368.JPG.cd94717a41052744ab8294660361945c.JPG

    Finished and Polished..

     

    Wilwood 1" Master Cylinder Installation-

        The Factory Master Cylinder had a 7/8" bore and Wilwood 1" Master has a 1" bore.  Its

    front reservoir is behind the rear reservoir so  I fabricated new Master output lines.   I used Napa

    Bendable 3/16" brake lines because the lines had to be bent in a "U" shape to go under the Brake

    Proportioning Valve.  It is made of Nickel and Copper Steel .   Also, the Wilwood Master output

    lines are SAE 3/8NF so I used NAPA Bendable  3/16" lines with 10mm brake nuts.  Then, I cut off one end of the line and remove the Metric Line Nut and replaced it 3/8NF Brake Line Nut.   Then Double Flare that end.   Now, you have a Brake Line with Metric Brake Line Nuts for the Proportioning Valve side and SAE 3/8"NF on the Master cylinder side.

    IMG_4226.JPG.be0d0b98a5306805acb531fc3d65ffd6.JPG

    Note-Nickel and Copper Lines different color

     

    While I was working there, I decided to construct a Heat Shield for the Brake Lines.

    As usual. I made a Paper Template for the Heat Shield.

    IMG_E4231.JPG.f0f396a46f86b964d025deded49163c4.JPG

    It was constructed out of 20 gauge Aluminum sheet.

     

    Made a Trial Model of Key Hole Bolt Hole

    IMG_4292.JPG.6b6d1ddd351aaac7a0d4b97c8758d616.JPG

    IMG_4257.JPG.c19cc464ebe9dbc7d0257570cd382557.JPG

    View of Shield from bottom  of the frame.

     

    IMG_E4232.JPG.2951c77d090ab8c4dfb2a87b11dd2e78.JPG Put a fold on the Shield on the bottom to add strength.  Then the Shield was buffed and polished.

     

    Finished  Shield.  Note-A simple "KEY Hole" mount  design was used.   Loosening the Proportioning Valve Mounting Bolt and moving it outward slightly.  Align the mounting Bolt with Round Section of the Key Hole. Then slide the Shield downward over the bolt.  Tighten the bolt.   A Simple Method but effective for tight spaces.

    IMG_4236.JPG.0628d37223e49f7c6e28f692648c8902.JPG

    Firewall  Forward View of Shield 

     

    IMG_4237.JPG.c4032d4bb22aa4abe99ed628b14be856.JPG

     

    Backward view of Shield.

  13. Dome Light Repair-

        The Original Dome Light Assembly was found to be defective when I tested it before installation.

    IMG_4159.JPG.01888b70b01e3e297d734872c2ae1b65.JPG The problem was the Light Switch was not functioning.

     

    I found a 12vt Micro On/ Off Switch on Amazon for $12 for six switches.

    IMG_4160.JPG.73b56a0292b4b844a3a59b492aa728a4.JPG

     

    The defective switch  was removed and prepared for new one.

    IMG_4163.JPG.4df25b0c10d6eb46f1ab0ad0a32d5066.JPG 

    Disassembly

     

     

    IMG_4162.JPG

    Preparing base for new switch

     

    New Micro Switch Attached to Base with JB Weld.   A LED Bulb will replace the Incandescent one

    later.

    IMG_4164.JPG

     

    Closup Pic of Dome Light Modifications

    IMG_4165.JPG.0f56da0172a0859dcac0c0c1da053d34.JPG

     

    Dome Light in Operation 

     

    Transmission Floor Shifter Boot Cover-

        The Transmission Shifter Boot Cover will actually consists of two covers -Rubber and Leather

    ones.   The Rubber One will stop Heat and Hot Air from entering the interior.   The Leather One is'

    more of decorative reason.

       The Shifter Mounting Plate was constructed of 22 Gauge sheetmetal.

     

    IMG_4143.JPG.366fb4d1a01cfb37a84cd993164503e5.JPG

     

    Test Fitting of Shifter Mounting Plate

    IMG_4155.JPG.23f0c56dbbb8d0d641b4c8e28f7e8af5.JPG

     

    Reverse Lockout Solenoid Switch-

        I decided to keep the Reverse Lockout Solenoid but simplify its operation.   A  Momentary On/Off

    Switch would be mounted rignt behind the Shifter.   It would be located a {olished Aluminum plate

    on the Center Console.   Operation is simple-when you want to shift into Reverse Gear, Your Left

    Hand will press down on the Reverse Lockout Momentary Switch( activating / openin the Lockout

    Gate.   The Right Hand will shift the Shifter Lever to the Right Direction and Up into Reverse Gear.

     

    12vt Water Resistant Momentary Switch (Amazon $12)

    IMG_4240.JPG.cfa5a03d2049a2aa09717a475d775745.JPG

    Reverse Lockout Solenoid

    IMG_E4267.JPG.ed1e694751f6e667ef41c7e94e9e41bc.JPG

     

    Momentary Reverse Lockout Switch on the Center Console

    IMG_E4263.JPG.e4e7eaa185318c0ebddee76ee0173503.JPG

    Note-Leather Shifter Cover covering over the Rubber Shifter Cover.

     

    IMG_4264.JPG.53bacad4714b0a189922a4b127f8f17c.JPG

     

    Note-Extra Room on Aluminum Console Plate for Future Switches( Fog Lights, Nitrous,etc)

     

    Problem with Precision Door Weatherstripping-

         Some other Z members also had problems with Precision Door Weatherstripping.   The  Precision Door Weatherstripping was made of Thick and Hard Rubber materials.   When it comes across Tight Fitting Contact areas, it does not compress enough.   Thus, you had to slam the doors

    until the weatherstripping compresses.   Later model car weather stripping are made of very soft and large air pockets for compressibility.

        I found that major problem was at the top of the door edge meets the rear quarter glass.

    The Weatherstripping is squeezed into very tight area but can not compress enough to function properly.   So you can replace the weatherstripping with a much softer material or increase the 

    door gap.   Since my door panels were worn and I was thinking of constructing the door panels

    out of 22 gauge Aluminum sheet, I tried to do some metal working on the panel.  Taking off the 

    interior covering of the upper rear corner of the panel, it was constructed a steel metal.

     

    Upper top corner of Drivers Door

    IMG_4270.JPG.1152ceaa066d4ad2392f1ebf22c8edcb.JPG

     

    So if I could "flatten" this area, it might give enough room for the weatherstripping to fit.

    The Large Hump would have to be "slit' in couple places to allow the flattening process.

    IMG_4271.JPG.00df2da5394b1ed30729a09ba8d26c81.JPG

    A Dremel with Cut Off Wheel cut the slits.

     

    IMG_4272.JPG.a8c867877ba14dd47bb3a180e098da14.JPG

     

    Cut another Slit on the bottom edge.

     

    IMG_4274.JPG.578213697f3597df85266cb73a1c728e.JPG

    Pound the area "flat" with  Hammer with panel on a flat hard table.

     

    IMG_4275.JPG.57a27c9996f834a99d9c7cc33d07b319.JPG

    A third Slit allows more flattening.

     

    IMG_4277.JPG.4baface689351478b6178a9e8f814852.JPG

    The over lapping slits were tack welded.

     

    1645032235_IMG_4318(1).JPG.77ea333aa560e3170e6e0b5b21ef2675.JPG  On the Door Side, I replaced the Door Glass

    Vertical Upper Mounting Bolt(6mm) with a Counter Sink Phillips To gain even more space.

     

    IMG_4316.JPG.12c1846b63d82806f8cef3b1c5d5d769.JPG

    Note-Flattening allowed the door to shut now.

    IMG_4268.JPG

    IMG_4269.JPG

  14. hatepotholez,

               I had  a similar problem with new Precision Door Weatherstripping  as you.   I fixed it in one day and did not spent any money on the repair.   I will post how I did it in my next post -V8 Z forum Gen III & IV Chev V8Z  coming soon.   Check it out!

                                                                                                         Toolman

    • Thanks 1
  15. Sorry for the delayed posting, I had to do some house repairs.

     

           More Wiring to do.

    Starter Solenoid-

        My AC Delco Starter#1266257 was one of those Mitsubishi Gear Reduction ones and I was having a difficult time finding the correct Solenoid Wire for it.   I ordered three different Solenoid Wires for it and all of them didn't fit.

    I finally found the correct one on Ebay.   It was specifically for 2019-22 Camaro with a LS3 6.0L.   It costs $59.00 but at least it fits.   The Solenoid Lead Wire is fully insulated too.

     

    IMG_4261.JPG.237febc8d718feded7ea8510337ed1ea.JPG

     

    Pic of Starter and Solenoid

    IMG_4058.JPG.07f073ebb9366fab93195a2f020dd012.JPG  IMG_4060.JPG.d0bbb5741131eb456768ef342af8e1c6.JPG

     

    Fuel Pump Relay- 

         As my Holley In The Tank Fuel Pump is far away from the battery, I decided to to run a Dedicated  Fuel Pump Relay. It is rated at 60-80 AMPS.   I already ran a 12 Gauge Wire from the battery to the Relay in the harness.  The Factory Electric Pump "Green" Wire was used to trigger to relay which will then send Full Battery Voltage to the Pump.  So If I decided to upgrade

    the Fuel Pump to a bigger one,  eveyrthing is done already.

     

    Rear Tail Lights Repair-

        Upon inspecting the Rear Tail Lights(Left and Right Sides) , I found corrosion on Sockets and Ground Wires on the

    sockets and related wiring. 

    IMG_4100.JPG.8b8eba01a90d3542fc11424db399672e.JPG Disassembly of the Lamp Sockets

     so I decided to repair the ones that need repair or replacement.   Amazon has Socket Repair Kits which contain the

    necessary parts and wire leads.   Make to get the correct dimensions for the socket and type of sockets( two wire, one wire, two contacts one contacts, straight ears or offset ears.  If the new sockets are loose in the plastic holder, you put some Hot Glue on the sockets to make them fit tight.

    IMG_4095.JPG.f229f1d37d21eaefcb6066610f7bbfe0.JPG 

     Original Factory on Left and Replacement on Right

     

    IMG_4096.JPG.4f9c05a4c338bbf9d11399b2587b6c4d.JPG 

    The Single Contact Lamp Socket replacement

     

    To be used, the flat bracket must be cut off.

     

    Before connecting the Lamp Sockets to the harness, all of the Lamps were tested.

    IMG_4116.JPG.fae311cc71e04612f0fe54c26ea4122f.JPG

     

    Note- I went to LED Bulbs for the whole car. not just the Rear Lights.   Led Lights will also lower the Amerage draw compared to the original Incandescent Bulbs.  I found some White Turn Signal Connectors discolored Brown because of Overheating.

     

     

                                                  Incandescent Bulb

    IMG_4129.JPG.b71c02129afc01f7c025d74f6542f4a5.JPG

     

                                                           LED Bulb

    IMG_4130.JPG.8d923fa1b70899716e3342a93178f99e.JPG

     

     

     

           Finished Repaired Harness

    IMG_4099.JPG

     

     

    Still More Electrical Work Coming Up.

  16. mutantZ,   No, the lower section of the steering column is not made of plastic.   Both factory and Silvermine columns are constructed with metal components.   All modern steering columns consists of both collapsible exterior housing and steering shafts.   The methods to accomplish this task may differ but the end result is the same. Collapsible steering

    parts must be replaced if damaged to provide same degree of protection.  Even when working on these components,

    care must be used not to damage them (excessive force like hammering,etc).

     

  17. beton,   Looking at the pics that you posted,  Maybe this damage properly occurred  previously and was then repaired.   Most common repair on this type of rack and pinion is worn out INNER TIE ROD ENDS.   The RACK travels in a very straight line if not. you will definitely have a "Bind" when turning the steering wheel.  In this case, the Rack would be replaced.   The cause could be from hitting a rock damaging Rack or Bad Accident.    I am including copies of Factory Service Manual -Serving the Steering Rack pages.

    IMG_4151.JPG.fb332f89bb6763f3596116b2814257a0.JPG

     

     

     

    IMG_4148.JPG.11b3e48deed323dbb2ec00c32dbebec3.JPG

     

    Does this help?

                                                                       Toolman

  18. MutantZ,

            Here is a pic comparing  Factory Steering Column  vs Silvermine Power Steering  Column.

           Note-the Collapsable Section on the Factory Column

     

     IMG_3884.JPG.32d4bbc89d6fbe95e596813db1f8c089.JPG

     

    Here is pic of the Factory Column with Internal Parts Exposed.

    IMG_4138.JPG.a3b7a48269ccdaee5754cb325d50c03b.JPG

     

    Does these pics give the information that you need?

                                                                              Toolman

  19. Constructing FUSE / RELAY AND JUNCTION BATTERY PANEL

      

        Because of limited engine compartment space, I decided to build a Fuse/ Relay and Battery Junction Panel in the

    Passenger Side of the Transmission Tunnel.    

       The Panel was made from 1/4" Black Sheet Plastic.   The Dimensions were about  7" x  10 1/2".   The  Legs were made to provide 1" space underneath to run wiring .  The Plastic was bent by using a straight edge and 1000 Watt Heat Gun.

    IMG_4025.JPG.dbe73cfd9826e3d03bd9a38e6a4991ce.JPG

     

    The  Basic Layout Plan for the Panel.   This Diagram show wiring for Speedometer Convertor and Electric Power Steering.

    1970425083_IMG_4028(1).JPG.9290b46604557d43cbae0ec7473c61a8.JPG

     

    I use  Four 80/ 60 Amp Relays as the relays will be powering more than one circuit at a time.

     IMG_4123.JPG.5495962b89a177ccfa9fb5efca28ea4a.JPG  

     

    This 4 Pin 80/60 Amp 12vt DC Waterproof Relay comes with 12 AWG insulated wires.

    Costs $38 for Four Relays from Amazon

      IMG_4122.JPG.a62a17404d0853f337f8f55620b33226.JPG

     

    This pic show a 40 amp In Line Fuse Waterproof Housing with 10 Gauge wire.   This In Line Fuse will used as the Terminal Fuse Block was rated at only 30 amps.   This  Fuse was utilized for the Electric Power Steering Motor.

     

    IMG_4117.JPG.caa4a3fbd2025258243d61dd60230b70.JPG

     

    This Dual Rows Block Terminal Strip from Amazon costs $8 for two.

    IMG_4118.JPG.8c85359dbe0bf5e81a4223807d6310a7.JPG

     

    This 6 Way Fuse with 5 Fused Circuits with seperayte Postive anf Negative Bus Bars costs

    $17 from Amazon.

    IMG_4120.JPG.d907bbd37fe87f56da58d64e2e557478.JPG

     

    The top 12gauge Red Wire has a inline waterproof 40 AMP Fuse.   This Fuse protects the 

    Electric Power Steering Motor.    I could not use the Fuse Block as it was rated at only 30AMPs.

     

    IMG_4051.JPG.22d8797527b85c479709c2a50787cb6f.JPG

     The White Relay wires trigger powers the Blue12vt wires that connected to the Positive  Bus Bar.

    Then the 12volts exit the Relay through the Red Wires.  Then the 12vt crosses the conection to 

    the Output wires.   The Vertical Fuses protected each circuit.   The Black wires on the Right Side

    connect to Negative bus bar(Ground).   The Top 1/4" threaded stud connects to Battery Positive

    terminal.   The Lower 1/4" threaded stud connects to a Negative Ground strap.

     

    The Panel with the wires all connected.   Note- Wires when possible are run under the panel to

    provide a clean appearance.   Majority of the Output Wires were required Key On Operation.   Some 

    Devices like the Holley Terminator Computer,  Silver Mine Power Steering required straight Battery

    Power but still ran thru a Fused circuit.

    kIMG_4077.JPG.1a16262ef16b71349a2fe35c49732316.JPG

     

    The Relay Panel was mounted to Transmission Tunnel with battery cables attached.

    IMG_E4127.JPG.dcf00e8e4c1a0b46069fd87c3cdc3129.JPG

     

    A Marine 12vt Battery Cable holds cables from the  Relay Panel,Alternator and Starter Motor.

    IMG_4125.JPG.f72e947a3cfa89ab3e73e2cbdd674d85.JPG

     

    The Negative Cable attaches with a Post Master Quik Disconnect Switch.   It can be disconnected with just a twist of the Black Knob.   Costs $14 from Amazon

    IMG_4124.JPG.7b7d37d34b5dd742b6066a473a520988.JPG

     

    More Wiring to come.

     

     

  20. mutantZ,  

     

            i used my 6 foot Borescope that I bought from Amazon for about $30 to check out those Air Inlet Tubes.

                 IMG_3643.JPG.f7c4d3c987157490ce8e79ffe0c00394.JPG

                 

               Here is a pic from the Borescope -from the Right Side  Kick Panel Hole looking forward to the Core Support.

                IMG_3639.JPG.f0424da4bc62ab0e9718ce725c8b0bb5.JPG

     

                I live in East Oahu near Hananuma Bay.

  21. mutantZ,  Have you considered putting your engine compartment wiring into the Left and Right Air Interior Ventilation Tubes?   The tubes run all the way from the Core Support to the Interior Compartment (above the Kick Panels).   The tubes are smaller at the front but large past the Strut Towers.   I ran my borescope through the tubes to check them out.   They were pretty clear.   Also, you could put wiring in the Cowl Section( windsheild wiper area) for wiring that needs to go from side to side.   With this

    method you could practically "hide" all of your wiring .   I hope this helps you.

                                                                                                                                            Toolman

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  22. 240Z Power Steering Installation-

     

          As I planned to have wide wheels and tires, power steering is almost a necessity in tight driving areas.   There are  BMW 318 hydraulic racks have successively installed in 240Zs.  These racks are difficult to find and require different outer tie rod ends.   Also, mounts for 

    the conversion racks must be modified.  There are two Electric Power Steering kits available for 240zs-Z Power Steering and Silvermine Motorsports.   Z Power Steering requires you to send them your steering column to modify.  Cost about $800 + Freight.   Silvermine Motorsports Powering Steering is ready to install but costs $1250 + Freight.   Considering 

    all the factors. I chose the Silvermine Power Steering Unit.

    IMG_3884.JPG.ee76d2ce6ac2cb152f295fcf3c55b8c8.JPG Silvermine Unit on the Left and Factory on the Right

    IMG_3878.JPG.77beda2e9a02baee5dae30a7b068ae76.JPGWiring for the Steering Unit

     

    IMG_3878.JPG.77beda2e9a02baee5dae30a7b068ae76.JPG

     

    IMG_3879.JPG.6856b236704497b9780352662a746231.JPG

     Plug in Connectors for Control Box

     

    Installation of the Steering Column takes normally  about 2 to 3 hours.   I decided to modify the  Brake/ Clutch PedalMounting Bracket to allow the Motor to move a total of 180 degrees for additional leg clearance.   Also, Offsetting the Steering Column Firewall Mount created additional e steering shaft to motor clearance.

     

    Made a Template for modifying the Steering Shaft Mount on the Firewall.

    510835454_IMG_3931(1).JPG.327a5acdd0fc5bd8a772a95b4e089426.JPG

     

    IMG_3941.JPG.e70668d748305a666fb52da9afc8661a.JPG

     

    Note- The Hole for the Steering Shaft Mount Plate is not round.  It is actually an "Oval" similar shape.   When a Round Tube passes through a Flat Plane at an Angle, it creates an Oval Hole.

    If you just drill a Round Hole, there would be large gaps around the edges that would need to be filled in.

      

    New Steering Column Mount alongside of Silvermine Mount.IMG_3883.JPG.c035919cd1557935d7001715b48903de.JPG

     

     This Modification shifts the Steering Shaft to the Left  !/4" for extra Steering Shaft Clearance.

    Modified Mount shown next to Silvermine Mount.

     

    Fabricating Mount Sleeve out of 1 1/2" tubing.

     

    IMG_3891.JPG.c5c298006352c48ac8c860330b2f1dcd.JPG

     

    Bending 3/16" steel strip to make the Steering Column Clamp.

    IMG_3895.JPG.0ebb7a7d6bf6960b9b683df2057ff714.JPG

     

    IMG_3949.JPG.b80ef2c76a10e50ef99252a707425685.JPG

    Finished with Gloss Black Powder Coating

     

    Steering Shaft Adaptor

    IMG_3880.JPG.a1c43420bcb00f0ffb19ef26f79c0f9c.JPG 

     

    Shaft Adaptor Modified by rounding off its edges eliminating stress points.

     IMG_3886.JPG.4810ad608da3accbe33b7aa1262824ea.JPG

     

    The Pedal Mounting Bracket was notched on the Right Side to allow the motor to swing up

    to provide more leg clearance.

    IMG_E3917.JPG.74e49f51aec983ced1c67280867433a7.JPG

     

    The Notch was reinforced by adding 1/8" steel plate around it.  Also,an additional lip was added to give the area more strength.

    933432613_IMG_3912(1).JPG.c1a815afc8a3d8173c6f440fd19a06ff.JPG

    .View of the Modified Pedal Mounting Bracket with Steering Column on it.

    IMG_E3914.JPG.e798ec1f71d2ce49fa163893b2ecf313.JPG

     

    Interior View of Mounted Steering Column -Note its offset position

    IMG_E3955.JPG.6b68d28d1d5c5d1dd486afa8a501e985.JPG

     

    I ended up leaving the Power Steering Motor in the Right Side of the Column.  This position would

    provide the most clearance for both my leg( left and right) movements.

     

    Engine Compartment view of Steering Shaft Clearance to Motor.

    1770810589_IMG_3959(1).JPG.dbc053df350cae83ffe482a586bf54dc.JPG

     

     Had about 3/8 to 1/2" Clearance .

     

    Silvermine Power Steering Control Box was mounted to Driver Side Kick Panel.

    1599408200_IMG_3956(1).JPG.7fec26277a49f691b433bb8891a4edad.JPG

     

     

    Detailed Measurements-

     

     With the Motor on Right Side of the Column, Distance between motor and floor is 14 1/4"

    ,IMG_4044.JPG.0deba50fde8e973d15199e99e74996fa.JPG

     

    With the Motor on Left Side of the Column, Distance between Motor and Floor is 14 1/2"

    IMG_4047.JPG.f1bcf9acee22d49eef96f5d0d9e52686.JPG

     

     

    Distance between exhaust manifold and steering shaft is 1/2".

    IMG_4032.JPG.21e524de2c844d85d23c7d4ee0e709a6.JPG

     

     

    Distance between Firewall and Bolt in Steering Shaft Adaptor is 6".

    IMG_4033.JPG.1253d9bbf35d4275bc010280b4e43d23.JPG

     

     

    Splined End  of the Shaft Adaptor

    IMG_3870.JPG.7a2d145e2305e1bb9c2bdf8e442d0abc.JPG

     

     

    Side View of Shaft Adaptor

    IMG_3867.JPG.70ed8017d592d4a054a53b88d999f2b6.JPG

     

     

     

     

    Next-Building Fuse and Relay Panel

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  23. Speedometer Modifications-

        

         There are Three Options to get a working Speedometer with LS Swap 240Z.   First ,  Keep the Original Z speedometer and convert  your T56 trans to Manual Speedometer.  This option requires sending the trans rear extension housing to be machined to handle "old type" plastic speedometer gearing.  There is a place in Washinton State that does this work for about $400 and you have to ship it to them.  Second option is to replacinging the original Z Speedometer Unit with a new GPS Speedometer.   This method may require modifying the dashboard to install because of size differences.  Also, GPS would not function in tunnels.  Cost about $300. The Third option is utilizing an Electronic Speedometer to Manual Speedometer Conversion Kit.   These kits convert the  VSS ( Vehicle Speed Sensor) signal to an electronic motor in a control box.  A cable from this box drives a cable to Z Speedometer.   Advantages of these kits are One Day Installation Time and Easy Recalibration when changing tire sizes and rear differential gearing.  Cost about $329.    I chose the Dakota Digital ECD-200BT-1.   This model has a GM (old style) threaded collar speedometer cable.

     

     IMG_4001.JPG.acd843cb86084370d934a87eeee08381.JPG   Note-Different cable versions

     

    IMG_4002.JPG.4b86e1b558fa2fbf61d3dc393c1f6b5c.JPG

     

      Although the GM Threaded Cable is very similar to the Datsun Z cable, it does not screw on but it is very close,though).

    So you must perform a little fab work to make it fit.   First, I measure the cable measurements of the 240z cable.

     

    IMG_3857.JPG.d50e2edccab92b3dac4d4b3c3e2f712a.JPG

     

    The Most important measurement is the speedometer stick out from the housing.   Now, you cut the 240z threaded sleeve off with a Dremel with Cutoff Saw Blade.

    IMG_3847.JPG.52cb2f47656766ff071543b359e96bab.JPG 

     

    I used a piece of 1/4" thin tubing (about 2" off of a Acid Brush Handle)  and Silver Soldered to

    240z cable cup section.   Silver Solder melts at 300 degrees but provides a very strong weld.

    This modified section was then slipped over the Dakota Digital  cable after removing its  section

    with the Dermel too.   Then the modified section attached to the Dakota Cable with JB Weld.  Set the cable stick out to the previous  measurement.   Remember to allow the JB weld to cure 24 hours before using.

    IMG_3856.JPG.3a43c4d9ef5ded27c923c9226fb4c7fa.JPG

     

    240z Cable Threaded Sleeve installed on Dakota Digital cable with minor surgery.

     

    The Dakota Digital cable was tested with a Cordless Drill running in Reverse Direction.

    IMG_3851.JPG.d902335e450dab1965e1d56723b9b215.JPG

     

    Note-Speedometer Needle moving at speed.

     

    The Cable Drive Unit was attached to under the Glove Compartment.

    IMG_3859.JPG.51a1071237d117bf2963c3a8c9f6d6fe.JPG

     

     

     

    Pic of Dakota Digital Speedometer Cable hooked up to Z Speedometer.

    IMG_3860.JPG

     

     

    The following pics are more information on Dakota Digital Speedometer Conversion Kit.

    IMG_4003.JPG.3ee02d3a411331ac9d51b5e5144509c1.JPG

     

    IMG_4004.JPG.527aea72db0e7fc38b90b2df6b65b617.JPG

     

    IMG_4005.JPG.a784802153dcd33f32ae7c7e90a6e939.JPG

     

    IMG_4006.JPG.422dce902a7124ec5653baa35820909e.JPG

     

    IMG_4007.JPG.595b009acda187d1dfe0e6666db20fd9.JPG

     

     

    IMG_4008.JPG.63fc9022a042ac015cc15183cb6fafeb.JPG

     

    IMG_4009.JPG.e066c898221a0f3b267dcebeb7bd5187.JPG

     

    IMG_4010.JPG.3ec5eeadf123334f413a2cb3d7fca0bd.JPG

     

     

     

     

    Next 240Z Power Steering Installation

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  24.   Sorry for the delay in posting, my PC broke down over the week end and tried to fix it.   But ended up getting a new one at Costco.

     

    Wiring Harness Mounts-

       Since there were so many different sizes harness mounts necessary, I decided to construct my own.   I used 22 gauge 

    steel metal with 3/4" to 1" strips.

    IMG_3697.JPG.144b724bf31c0d45dc2a0abd9ce52871.JPG

     Plastic Dip which a Black Plastic Protective Cover used to create no-slip handle covers for hand tools.   Procedure 

    is slowly dip the items into the can to add the coatings on.   It works better by dipping multiple times instead trying

    to make one heavy coating.   I dipped the mounts in about three to four times( allow 30 minutes drying time between

    coats) to get thick but smooth coatings.

    IMG_3701.JPG.38b252f4e3e08f8e92051baef75b492c.JPG

     

    Let it dry completely dry  for 24 hours before using.

     

    I used Metric Nut Inserts to hold the harness mounts and found that some locations were too tight to use the normal

    Thread Insert Rivet Pliers.   So I constructed a simple tool to do this job in "Real Tight Places.   Used !/8" x 3/4" x 8"

    mild steel plate with 1/4" hole drilled in one end.

      IMG_3704.JPG.77c2af61910d6a07a10922f3b66e806e.JPG

     

    Just inset a 4MM insert insert in the hole and place the right size bolt on the 4MM insert.  

    Then, just tighten the bolt and it will squeeze the nutsert tight.

    IMG_3705.JPG.7f1a184d9f6f450020ab43af14727e2a.JPG

     

    In REAL TIGHT PLACES, you can use a Hand Wrench instead of a ratchet and socket.  It takes longer but it will work too.

     

    Wiring Harness Looms

     

    Previously I used Flexible Plastic Split Opening Wiring Looms but found out these looms would hold water and debris

    in them.    So now, First, Premium Scotch Brand Black Electric Tape was wrapped tightly over the wire harness.  Then

    Alex Tech Split Sleeve Wiring Looms were installed over that.   This braided covering is very tear resistant but allow water to drain out.

     

    IMG_3971.JPG.0a792d8acbc8912f19bdc3e11ea3636d.JPG

     

    ALEX TECH SPLIT SLEEVING is sold on Amazon with  !/4", 1/2",3/4" and 1" tubing sizes.

    Note-After cutting the ends off, it is recommended that a mini torch be used to burn the 

    ends slightly to prevent ends from coming apart.   The ends can be taped with electrical tape or

    use Heat Shrink tubing to hold the ends down.   I noticed that even factory wiring comes with this type of looms.

     

    Holley Terminator Computer Installation

    IMG_3822.JPG.1d3e71d80d7001083e81375db6ab8e8a.JPG

    The Holley Terminator Computer was installed on the Passenger Side Kick Panel with fabricated mount.  

    Note-Wiring harness Mounting Clamp holding the harness it the firewall.

     

    A 1/8" Aluminum Protective Plate was added to bottom area of the computer to prevent damage

    to the wiring.

    IMG_3779.JPG.2cba8786d93df3ce69f32e6ed9199043.JPG

     

    The Computer Maintenance LED Lights are located on the top of the computer so are still visible in this location.   The computer mount was built with 1" clearance for the wiring to allow wiring to go underneath.

     

    The Holley 3 1/2" LED Touch Screen Display was stored in the Glove Compartment.  It will be used to tune the computer.

    IMG_3818.JPG.186c463e019d5e3fa5832d77ee484843.JPG

     

     

     Holley Universal Oil Pressure Transducer 

         The Factory LS3 Oil Pressure Sender will not function with the Holley Computer so  the

    Holley Oil Pressure Transducer must be utilized.   Cost $140 from Amazon.

    IMG_3817.JPG.791de90fc7f2f20283242e2c92224dbf.JPG

     

    Holley Included the Oxygen Sensor Bung that must be welded in the Front Exhaust pipe after the

    exhaust manifold.

    UGOV0939.JPG.a00d3c42083e0e8974fe3fb54bb548d5.JPG

     

     

    Horn installation-

     

    A pair of Hella Toyota Horns ( Amazon $30) 

     

    IMG_3829.JPG.723e4add703b868549a058e1e38a9512.JPG

     

    IMG_3830.JPG.c86d147ca4f065cf12caee982bc25140.JPG

    Horns were mounted using existing radiator lower mounting bolts,

    IMG_3963.JPG.cf352915f3e769e3734f9409fa348e74.JPG

     

    Right side Horn

    IMG_3964.JPG.2419f8ce38ac56e1a4fda2c4f22eea50.JPG

     

    Left side Horn

     

     

     

    Next-T56 Transmission Electronic Speed Sensor to 240z Manual Speedometer Conversion Kit

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

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