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toolman

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Posts posted by toolman

  1. Fuel Venting Hoses-

       One of the problems of the 240z is the Gas Smell in the interior of the vehicle.   Leaking Hatch Weather Stripping,Leaking Tail Light Housing Gaskets, and Leaking Fuel Vapor Hoses.   There are Three Different Fuel Vapor Hoses used in the Fuel Tank area.   The usual sizes (inside Diameter) are 5/16", 5/16" and 3/4"  Neoprene Fuel Hose.   Instead for searching for various sizes of Rubber Hose Sealing Grommets, I decided to fabricate my own.

    IMG_2390.JPG.53704f5edceae1205105b3897e98daef.JPG  These were four for $4.

     

    The Local Hardware Store had 1" or 1 1/8" Wooden Chair Leg Tips.

           First, I drilled a 1/8" Pilot Hole in the Chair Tip and drilled it with a Blair 5/8" Hole Saw.

     

     

    Then Drilled it with a Blair 5/8" Hole Saw.

    2116029933_IMG_2396(1).JPG.21353c50369d13b8e19073522dc8eebd.JPG

     

    IMG_2393.JPG.1f7e6bdb6d659e2e31005a4790424e5c.JPG

     

    IMG_2411.JPG.1b8ab2cf07d42a492657054f71e7e785.JPG  Chair tip fitted on Hose

     

    IMG_2398.JPG.cd7d103359ce20cdac3eee28b486363f.JPG  Test Fit

     

    IMG_2397.JPG.13da0e4b0454096008cbd10a682c2f99.JPG Note-Tight Sealing Tip

     

    For the Fuel Vapor Hoses going through Sheet Metal Holes, the Tips Tapered Exterior Body

    was utilized.   

     

     

    The Chair Tip was "Notched" at appropriate diameter with a File and Hack Saw Blade.

    IMG_2405.JPG.1d44af019a751307bbf94d1b811bc3c5.JPG  The Notch became a Locking Edge to hold

    the Chair Tip in place.

     

    IMG_2520.JPG.f88fe7b2e540bbf50532753d9e292543.JPG  Check Upper Left Corner to see the Locking Notch Chair Tip installed on a 5/16" Fuel Vapor Line.

    IMG_2522.JPG.543cd187a0fcaba8fd07b8d6b315bf0c.JPG

     

    Bottom View of Fuel Output, Fuel Return and Fuel Tank Vent Hoses on tank.

     

    Bottom View of Upper Fuel Tank 5/16" Vent Hose next to Fuel Filter.

    IMG_2521.JPG.078cea65778797e752a623b45e03208f.JPG

     

    IMG_2525.JPG.ba188d2922ee00c4efbb3458f2d3e886.JPG

     

    Bottom View of Fuel Outlet and Fuel Return Hoses above Differential.

     

    Rear Interior View of Fuel Vapor Hoses in Rear Tail light Panel.

    IMG_E2415.JPG.cf6a085962c3beb3b7081475e70c8e89.JPG

     

    Passenger Side Interior View of Fuel Vapor Tank and Connecting Hoses

     

    IMG_2417.JPG.fb9e9119f95ba7c0e2fc1d6e0985d383.JPG

     

     

    Next-Heater Box and AC Evaporator Repair

     

     

     

  2. Z DEPOT did refund me for the  brake parts that did not fit properly on my car.   It took about a month of communicating by email as they don't want to 

    talk on the phone.   Hopefully they will return to using the telephone as the Pandemic comes to a end.

                                                                                                                                                            Toolman

  3. Transmission Cross Member-

       

      As always, the first thing to do is to create a card board template of the Transmission Cross Member.

    IMG_2159.JPG.f1d5a342f1cfa2c3779149b7ae7bbf27.JPG

     

    Then, the Trial Fitting of the Template.

    IMG_2161.JPG.4053ade978306812cbf193dd8d819a2e.JPG

     

    As you can see, there are plenty improvements to do the card board board template.   The Transmission Crossmember will have to built with a much "tighter fit" to accommodate the big exhaust pipes (2 1/4" to 3") with sufficient ground clearance too.

     

     A 14" Chop Saw was used to cut the 1/4" steel plate.   I bought 1/4" x4" x 20 foot steel plate for $67 to save time in

    cutting the long lengths.   That left me more time to work on just cutting 4" width cuts.

     

    IMG_2162.JPG.dd6d297be516e0b5c2b69aac1360d029.JPG

     

    By cutting only half away through through the plate made it easier to bend since I did not a Heavy Metal Press Brake.  If you cut it right, you can still bend it by hand but it will be strong enough to test fit it on the car.

     

    IMG_2164.JPG.fe3d183171341cbe85b06b4336a345f7.JPG.

     

    The Klein Angle Finder was utilized to check the plate angles.

    IMG_2165.JPG.141d3c1cc4fbf2cc0bb1f103a7cf20c5.JPG

     

    The Stock Transmission Mounts was trimmed to gain additional clearance.

    IMG_2170.JPG.89bcfbabe6bfb20e727922508c3faf11.JPG  Stock Mount  Before

     

    IMG_2172.JPG.3dde6e80a894543918f4b3bf078f69e1.JPG    Mount After Trimming  Four Corners

    This trimming allowed the Plate to be closer to the Mount.

     

    The Cross Member was first tack welded then test fitted then fully welded.

     

    IMG_2184.JPG.071cdad6218925aa820b28f4169cfa91.JPG

     The Cross Member was tack welded to another 1/4" steel plate to prevent warping /

     

    IMG_2185.JPG.3a6254a7c089cf5bdaca26bd6d4e9147.JPG

     

    Note-There is a change in the shape of the Trans Crossmember.   These changes created maximum space for the exhaust pipes.

     

    Cross Member Powder Coated Black.

     

    IMG_2226.JPG.580ca5fa4f28999d8cac5f9fb47ff51b.JPG

     

     

    Because of the Extreme Motor/Trans setback, the Reverse Lock Out Solenoid was touching the trans tunnel.  I could have eliminated the Solenoid or Modify the Trans Tunnel.   I decided to do

    the Later.

    IMG_2144.JPG.b1f87202416ac53f0519638024c1e506.JPG

     

    I fabricated a small Sheetmetal Hump to provide Solenoid clearance.

    IMG_2462.JPG.184ce7976c288f0c1c7cb4ea3f05b8a3.JPG

     

      Interior View of Tunnel Modification

    805556365_IMG_2452(1).JPG.791c7a7bb55a3f59012cb6248146c762.JPG

     

    I also added Four 1/4" Steel Plates to reinforce by "sandwiching" the interior floor panel between

    the Transmission Cross Member.   Remember, that they are Two !"X 3" x !/8" Rectangular Steel Tubing Frame Connectors under the floor pan, too.

     

     

    These are the Two 1/4" Reinforcing Floor Plates being fabricated.

     

    IMG_2210.JPG.d3326a5d7f25c46e1611d6922d70acbc.JPG

     

    Trial fitting of Reinforcing Plates and Crossmember bolted together.

    IMG_2214.JPG.975a8f3348c02cd0fd8559c7ca1ff94c.JPG

     

    Cross Member Powder Coated Black

    IMG_2226.JPG.580ca5fa4f28999d8cac5f9fb47ff51b.JPG

     

     

    Passenger Side Interior Reinforcing Plate

     

     

     

    Bottom View of Cross Member

    IMG_2480.JPG.c74dfb4dfaf76494242885a9f6481aaf.JPG   Back View-Note Tight Fit compared to First Version

     

    Bottom view-Cross Member

    IMG_E2486.JPG.eb1f06da6a6d030e0d06360599df323b.JPG

     

    Cross Member, Upper and Lower Reinforcing Plates held together with 3/8" Yellow Zinc Bolts

     

     

    Outer Reinforcing Bottom Plate( one on each side-Left and Right

    IMG_E2484.JPG.2c88605e2095a71f8c116ae43f4ffc25.JPG

     

    Interior Upper Reinforcing Plate( one on each side-Left and Right

    IMG_E2453.JPG.0d66c4b2b3bbb2ee4485b3c2154f0e05.JPG

     Left Side Interior Upper Reinforcing Plate( Note-Frame Connector passes under this plate

     

     Close Up View of Trans Mount

     

     

    IMG_2459.JPG

     

     

    Next-Finalizing Fuel Tank Venting Hoses

  4. Drive Line Angles

         Now that I have my Motor Mounts made and LS motor installed, the construction of the Transmission Cross Member could to be done.   But first, the measurement of the Drive Line Angles is necessary.   This because the Transmission Cross Member will determine the Motor and Transmission  Drivetrain Angle #1.   If the Crossmember was constructed before checking Drive Line Angles and I needed to adjust Angle #1, it might require making a new Crossmember to change the angle.  So checking the Drive Line Angles now and establishing Cross Member height before makes sense. 

    Angle  #1 is the Motor/Trans Angle

    Angle#2  is the Drive Shaft Slope.  The Last one is 

    Angle #3 -Pinion Shaft Angle.   The measurements (if possible) should be with the Vehicle Level and at normal Ride Height.

    How To Measure Drive Shaft Angles – Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts (4xshaft.com)

    This article gives a good overall view of the measurement procedure.

       I downloaded the Tremic App from the App Store to my IPhone.  I used  the

    Klein Digital Angle Finder from Home Depot-$39.

    IMG_2186.JPG.9167935359565415289b783843cf383f.JPG

    It has a strong magnet and very easy to use.   The digital readings are big and with the black background readable even outdoors.

     

    All measurements were made in the Center Line of the Drive Train.

    IMG_2236.JPG.23eb8d88a32e3e877b22fe3f66a5d497.JPG

    Angle# 1   Motor/Trans Angle measured at Front Driveshaft Yoke

     

    IMG_2237.JPG.47a89316de1191bdf954bf5fc2650db0.JPG

     

    Angle# 2   Measured at Driveshaft Center-Driveshaft Angle

     

    IMG_2239.JPG.aca11e624d1188bf6f9e8e20066e8aa1.JPG

     

    Angle# 3 Measured at Rear Driveshaft Yoke-Pinion Angle

     

    I transferred these measurements in the Tremec App.

    IMG_2240.PNG.a7ea365147d4bb67b6b4546c83dae6cf.PNG  The Results-Everthing in the Green-PASS

     

    If there was a measurement in Red, there would be a problem with that Angle or Angles  and should be corrected.  Shimming or other methods can be employed to adjust the angle.

       For those without Iphone or Digital Angle Finder can get a similar results with a manual Protractors and a Straight Edge.           The Formula is:

                  Motor/Trans Angle-2.3 Degrees                  

         minus Drive Shaft Angle-2.0 Degrees             

                                                 =0.3 Degrees                                                                               

                             Pinion Angle-3.9 Degrees

          minus Drive Shaft Angle-2.0 Degrees

                                                 = 1.9 Degrees

        Using my measurements in this case                

     

    Next-Transmission Crossmember

                                     

                                    

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  5. After couple of days of emails, I am happy to say that ZCAR DEPOT finally realized that there was a fitment problem with their booster.   They are working on a solution.

    If they improve the customer service, I think everyone will be happy.   ZCAR DEPOT will also get increased sales.

  6. Has anybody have problems dealing with ZCAR DEPOT?   Previously, I have purchased mostly small items and stuff.  But recently had

    a fitment problem with a brake master cylinder from them.   I tried to call them at 844-8652473, you get a answering machine which is

    full so you can not leave a message.   The only alternative coarse of action is to email them at sales@zcardepot.com and hope they answer 

    you.   Their products are better than others but to me, their customer service is really terrible.   If you had problems with them, please

    comment here so others will know too.   Maybe they will improve their customer service.

  7. Prelubing the LS3 Motor-

        I borrowed a Oil Pressurized Tank to prelube my LS3 motor as LS motors can not be easily prelubed like the older 350

    motors.  The operation is simple-Motor Oil is pressurized in the tank to about 50PSI and fed though the oil gallery plug.  On the LS motor, it is located on the Front Left Lower Side.   After starting to pressurizing the oil gallery, I rotated the motor

    about 1/4 turn to allow the oil enter all of the passages.   Keep rotating the motora 1/4 turn while checking the amount of oil in the tank to prevent creating air pockets in the oil passages.   Continue until the oil reaches the rocker arms and springs or the recommended oil amount( 5 1/2 quarts in this case).

    IMG_2257.JPG.cbec390dc08251e52c5838d1e12a079e.JPG Motor rotated with a 1/2 breaker bar.

     

    Clutch Slave to Clutch Fingers Clearance-

        The Holley T56 Shim Kit ($39 from Amazon) arrived.  The kit consists of 3 Thickness of Aluminum Round Shims

    0.059, 0.125 and 0.185.    The shims are installed to obtain the recommended clearance of 0.125" to o.200" between the measurements between the Throw Bearing(fully compressed) and transmission case face subtracted from the measurement between Clutch Fingers and Bell Housing Face.  See pic below.

    IMG_2329.JPG.b87076a70a344f580ba785a69f2daba8.JPG 

     

     

     

        IMG_2325.JPG.b3f2d6683b5e20bfdb4777985a1cd687.JPG   Holley Shim Kit

     

    Bell Housing to Clutch Fingers Measurement

    IMG_2293.JPG.b40d7692224a66fb611fbd6ba19bf8ef.JPG  Using Straightedge and Machinist Ruler

    s

    Clutch Slave(with Spring Removed) to Transmission Case edge Measurement

    IMG_2296.JPG.b1ac9eda1f7b4d0013786ade7b249849.JPG

     

    IMG_2297.JPG.99cc2dab2241ce8cbaa247862db8f767.JPG   Do not forget to remove Clutch Slave Spring while measuring.

     

    In my case, only the 0.185 Shim was required to obtain the Proper Clearance.

     

    IMG_2327.JPG.d19675059b92209a41bd75929e39c52b.JPG

     

    Clutch Master Cylinder-

       I used Wilwood 3/4"  Clutch Master Cylinder( $49 on Amazon).  Also, used Russel 45 degree Banjo Fitting with Copper Sealing Washers for it.

     IMG_2312.JPG.4ebe90e55aa4870890ce006b8ab444be.JPG

     

    Bench Bleed the Wilwood Clutch Master before Installation.

    IMG_2308.JPG.e8adbd1686eb0f822eb3ee9d3b204262.JPG

     

     

    Wilwood Clutch Master installed with 36" Braided Stainless Steel 3AN Hose

    IMG_2331.JPG.c8cae074afb78f11c88ac68327a36216.JPG

     

     Testing the Clutch Master and Slave before installing Motor and Trans into the Car

    Most people probably would bother to test the Clutch System before putting it into the car but I rather be ":Safe" than "Sorry" and having to remove the motor and trans for a leak.   I picked up a  3AN Union fitting to extend the clutch line to about 6 feet to do the system testing.

    IMG_2306.JPG.593cc1ce32193b6c3fabe4afa891e8d9.JPG

     

     

    Before the Clutch Testing, Clutch Pedal Endplay and Pedal Stop adjustments were done.

     

    490216886_IMG_E2330(1).JPG.f0aa623eefd488437d945e3ba445cd8d.JPG

    To physically test clutch operation, Put the transmission in gear.  The output shaft should not able to turned by hand.   Now, pushing in the clutch pedal should release the output shaft and allow it to be turned by hand.  This test verifies that the clutch is functioning properly.

    Also, a Visual Inspection was done utilizing my Borescope.

    IMG_2341.JPG.8a0c28fd77c8bc286cf41c044500a60b.JPG

    No leaks at Bleeder Screw or Clutch Line Inlet.

     

                      Video of Throw Out Bearing operation

  8. This is Toolman,   I just removed my T56 transmission from a crate LS3 motor last week from under the 240z on jack stands.   Jag that Run has their motors mounts.  very forward on the LS motors like my mounts( check out my recent posts).    I put a floor jack under the rear of the LS oil pan to prevent the motor from smashing the brake lines on the firewall.    This engine setback lets very little room for trans removal though.   I used long 3/8 extensions

    with 12mm or 14 mm swivel sockets to loosen trans bolts.   I removed the LS intake manifold because the plastic PCV valve was real close to the firewall.   Also. there is only ten 8mm bolts holding the intake manifold.   Installing the T56 transmission from under the car will be tricky.   I borrowed a old floor transmission jack and will use two aligning studs to make the job easier too.   Since the transmission is out, I am going to test the hydraulic clutch by adding additional 36" of 3AN line to test everything is working under pressure before reinstalling motor and trans into the car.   I will use the borescope to see if the clutch is working OK.  Some people will think it is a waste of time but I rather not take the chance of the clutch slave leaking.

     

  9. Sorry about the delay in posting but I ran across an unforeseen problem: my used T56 transmission that I picked up about 15 years ago would not bolt up to my crate LS3.  After a lot of research, I found out to correct this problem there were basically Two Methods to convert my LT1 T56 to a LS1 T56 transmission.   First and cheapest was shipping the Front Midsection Plate to a Mainland Machine Shop to machine it to accept a LS1 input shaft.  The cost would be about $100 plus shipping( To and Back).  Also, beside that I would still need a LS input shaft( used about$120) and LS Bell Housing( used about$150)  The Machine Shops are in Washington State and Texas.  I didn't want to ship the Front Cover to them and have something happen.  So the other option was to purchase a new or used Front Cover Plate, LS1 Input Shaft, and a LS Bell Housing.  So I purchased a new LS1 Input Shaft and LS1 Front Cover  from AMP Distributing in Texas( for $210 and $240).   Shipping was $60 First Class Mail.  The GM Bell Housing was about $280  from Amazon.  Total= $510 including freight.  Fortunately, I only paid $1000 for a low mileage Iroc Camaro T56 trans back then.

    IMG_2277.JPG.d85f2c93ba26eb32225029b88d813da4.JPG

      Engine Side View of      LTI T56                                             LS1 T56

         Difference mainly around Input Shaft Area and Casting Holes for LS Hydraulic Slave and Bleeder

    IMG_2280.JPG.773bd1ecae7c74539489dc20d80b001c.JPG

    Difference between   LT1                                                   LS1         Transmission Side View

                  Relatively No Difference

     

    IMG_2276.JPG.937b858363020192ffadcd82c5129846.JPG

    Input Shafts Differences            LT1                           LS1   much longer

     

    IMG_2282.JPG.15575cfce06a8c5a6056b5262357a100.JPGBell Housing Differences

    LT1- Top                               LS1- Bottom        required Bigger Flywheel

     

    Input Shaft Replacement-

      First, Remove Front Cover while pushing the Input Shaft inward to prevent Blocker Ring from falling out(can use a small screwdriver to hold it in position).   

    IMG_E2269.JPG.234229c14d8993a67921ea58a7412154.JPG LT1 Input Shaft Removed by rotating it and "wiggling" shaft.  At the same tie, Keep pressure on Input Shaft to prevent Blocker Ring from falling out.  Take your Time.

     

    Remove bolt Input and Counter Shaft Bearing by placing Eight Fingers on the inside of the races pulling outward while Rotating the Bearing Race at the same time.   The Races should come out easily.  Once out, remove shim under races and measure their thickness.   Input and Countershaft have different diameters shims.   I used a Felt Pen and write their thickness next to their bores.

    I ordered a Tremec T56 Shim Kit ($50 from Ebay).

    1718160421_IMG_2273(1).JPG.d09961360d7c43a3113f3c9657855b5d.JPG

    Then, after cleaning I replaced the Input Shaft Race with the New One and original shim.

    Then. put Counter Shaft Race with  original shim inside.   Setup Dial Indicator to check end play of both Input and counter shafts.

    IMG_E2283.JPG.8be58918a57620bd3e94c158f938efa5.JPG

     

    I followed the Tremec factory manual to obtain Endplay and PreLoad for Input and Counter Shaft.  Even made their Special Tool(consisted of a Metric Threded Steel Rod) to insert in Counter Shaft.   But I found the readings were too erratic.   So I searched the Internet to find another method.  A Transmission Rebuilder came up with this method.  

     

    This method was basicially over shimming the bearing under till the shaft "Binded" then remove .002 shim.   Retorque it and test it again.   The Test consists "Feeling by Hand" .   DO NOT LAUGH!!  I have seen racers adjust Rear Differentials by Hand and come out with Perfect Tooth Pattern.   Note- The Tremec Shim Kit has 8 various thickness shims so you

    have to "play" (add and subtract ) shims  to obtain .002 removed shim.

    IMG_2290.JPG.307204ef7fe7578fa541089a7d8d89a8.JPG  Dial Indicators don't lie- .002 Endplay and Preload

     

    If you need to check Pressure Plate to Clutch Throwout Bearing Clearance-

     

    Using Straight Edges-One across the Bearing, measure distance to transmission face.

    IMG_2296.JPG.f2b5d6470781eb3229ea30f1bb9b39db.JPG

     

    IMG_2293.JPG.d115684de1671c7f90225894e19b8cac.JPG

     Place Straight Edge against Bell Housing Face and measure the distance to Clutch Fingers.   To get

    Clutch Fingers to Throw Bearing Clearance, just subtract the Two Measurements for Clearance.

     

    Engine Stopper-

       I fabricated my Engine Stopper out of 1/8'" steel to hold motor from turning when tightening flywheel and pressure plate bolts.

    IMG_2264.JPG.8cb01e3f0d5ab124dda41ef900e94dd4.JPG

     

    790651721_IMG_2267(1).JPG.e2a2c0ee8e5f8670b2d44ef0dfadfb38.JPG   Installed on Block

     

     

    Next-PreLubing the LS3 motor

  10.                                        Bottom View of Bell Housing Clearance                                

    IMG_2130.JPG.cc8d0b313c48fbf0bd3880cf696cc02b.JPG

     

     Left Side

    IMG_2134.JPG.b8874918682bff1c85f444bc5c254806.JPG

                                                                                                                                                     Top view

    IMG_2132.JPG.9c453816a0a2e6eb208fd649530fdca2.JPG   Removed Hood Lock Mount to gain more

    clearance.

     

                                           Right Side                                                    

     

    170779151_IMG_2133(1).JPG.ed8369ba3ba3e54adec498be2abf945b.JPG

     

      IMG_2196.JPG.4c3feefc0248786c86f4137c9a85923a.JPG Room for Exhaust not bad  

                             Front View-Motor Mounts

     

    IMG_2128.JPG.6a7bca23bc09276eca041897cfa348ed.JPG

          1/2" Clearance between Balancer and Steering Rack

     

                    Bottom View-Right Side           Tight Clearance between Firewall and Motors

     

     

                                                 Tight Firewall to Motor Clearance

    IMG_2206.JPG.4c642d63ee2f6d099f69cf6a7e3d3f63.JPG

     

                                     Front view of Both Motor Mounts

    IMG_2194.JPG.5053d0d417c10e6c946677666a3472d9.JPG

     

                                                   

    Next-Transmission Crossmember

  11.  Motor Mounts-

       Originally I planned to used Dirty Dingo Z LS conversion motor mounts.   But after installing on my Dummy LS Block in my car, I decided I wanted more engine setback than they could provide.

    IMG_2070.JPG.c760c200cf411773a6c052016f6ab6a3.JPG

     

    Also. looked ICT BILLET Mounts

    ictbillet5.jpg.cb952710ad3c00b0dc245f88d3d614ea.jpg

     

    So I decided to basically make my own mounts of 1/4" Steel Plate.

    IMG_2105.JPG.15140aae07e24195e5dd5f4c0dbec81e.JPG

     

    As you can see, my version is 4" to 5" longer.   I knew this was longer than necessary but usually go longer, just in case,,  i need extra area to construct AC mounts too.   I can always cut them shorter later.

      On the left bottom side of LS, there are two plugs.

    IMG_2118.JPG.2e89e6ec1dbcd21050b09c86643b4133.JPG

    The front one is a oil gallery plug.   I plan to use this one to lubricating the motor before firing it up.   The other plug is a freeze plug.  The left mount was modified to give clearance of the oil gallery plug.

       I took the oi pan measurements from my LS motor on the engine stand and place them on the Dummy Motor to check clearance between oil pan and rack.  It had.

    IMG_2111.JPG.a6a6272cb6e4cec4c466337c4a879001.JPG

    Checking engine level (length and sideways) 

    IMG_2079.JPG.886846195ade1ed0c26a58285288dd83.JPG

     

    Checking body level (length wise and side side ways) 

      IMG_2102.JPG.7af437cc94ed0973c6e6080834b4ac6e.JPG     

     

     

     

    IMG_2081.JPG.f9c88c368653870ffcc139095553a081.JPG  Checking engine rear clearance

     

      The Steering Shaft was also checked for clearance.

    IMG_2127.JPG.4b80a063f82b9b27b6ed9739e93f8404.JPG

                                                                                                              

    Motor to Firewall Clearance checked

    IMG_2121.JPG.77f60334d96d10b53541e6ed8d3337cd.JPG

    Note-Use of Wooden Blocks to temporary suspend engine while constructing  mounts.

     

    Tack welding the Mount Motors

    IMG_2190.JPG.03dfde24eaa249bf3f00f6ccac187f03.JPG

    Note- A Square Tubing Spacer was created to limit welding distortion.   Also, the mount was tack welded to table for the same reason.

      Between this final version of the Motor Mount and the first version, there were probably Three others (some only 1/ 4" difference in height).  Trial and error had to be done to achieve the necessary results.   Also,

    while designing the mounts, one has to consider for other things(like air condition condition, power steering, alternator,etc).

                                                                  Motor Mounts- Powdercoated

    195994615_IMG_2193(1).JPG.1219073be6d670827c377a73327c0537.JPG Note-access holes drilled for oil gallery and

    freeze plugs.

     

    IMG_2102.JPG                                              side view

    IMG_2193 (1).JPG                          

     

                                                                            Left Side View

    IMG_2134.JPG

     

     

                                           Top View

    IMG_2132.JPG  

     

  12. Witchboard,  If your door adjustment is not the problem, you can try this procedure.   The 240Z window door glass frames are rather flimsy.   So you might need to bend

    the top door edge more inward.   You accomplish this by:   Open the door and stick a 2 x 4 between the lower edge of the door and rocker panel.  Now just push the top edge

    of frame inward.   By moving the window frame inward, it will decrease the window gap and hopefully stop the water leakage.   Push easily at first and harder if necessary.

    Also, check the driver's door for sagging.   The upper door hinge pin wears and creates play.

                                                                                                                                                     Toolman

  13. Rear Rocket Bunny Flares Moduicications

       The Front Lower section of the Rear Quarter Panel Flares  was not sufficiently  secured down

    IMG_1893.JPG.23b04d9d49a8474c425f4d30a757c41b.JPG  So. I installed one 6MM x 1.0 nutsert to the underside of the rocker panel.

    Then, made a 16 gauge sheet meta; plate to go over the nutsert.   To give this plate additiona; strength,  another plate on the exterior of the flare.

    A hole was drilled through both plates.  So you ended up with the flare sandwiched between both plates.   Also, a right angle was added the inside edge of the plate so it was against the rocker panel pinch weld.

    IMG_1896.JPG.5bb2420df2bddf2c47108d988c83f37f.JPG   Side view of Quarter Panel Reinforcing Plates.

     

    Late Christmas Present

               Santa Claus delivered my Christmas Present at the end of December:  2020 Chevrolt LS3 #19370416  6.2 Liter 430HP/ 425 Lbs Ft torque.   It

    came from Scoggin Dickey Chevrolet in Texas.   Cost was about $7600 plus $900 freight( truck and ocean freight).  The shipment took about 3 weeks

    from Texas to Honolulu.

            My local Machine Shop offered me the use of his Dummy LS Motor to make mounts and check fitment issues.

       Side View

     

    IMG_2012.JPG.3e4cd61c08e3a35a2cac598ce811be9d.JPG  Bottom View

     

    Because its light weight,  it was very easy to put the motor in and out of the Z to check fitment issues.

    IMG_2079.JPG.cac18c84b03c31990c1e6982baf31a43.JPG

     

     

    Differential Mount Modifications

          With the additional torque from the LS motor,  the original Differential Mount was modified.   Some people use solid Differential Mounts but didn't

    want excessive vibration and noise.   However, the factory Differential mount has a low profile and is small in size.   My solution was the cut off the corners

    of the original mount then add Four 1/4 Right Angle Tabs.  

    IMG_2063.JPG.c2bb3967d1338d1f7e8c4060ae8d03cd.JPG  The Right Angle Tabs being welded to original mount with

     

    a piece of 1/4 "steel providing the "Air Gap".   This design allows the Differential mount to operation normally until Load is applied then it will be "solid" mount.

     

    Finished Differential Mount.

     

    IMG_2065.JPG.1d635016c0106c4a3c150ae562d74f51.JPG  Bottom View

     

    IMG_2066.JPG.ff7bb53ccdaeaf4b0258233dc7ccb0ff.JPG   Rear View

     

    IMG_2067.JPG.726cc452a63b4b5afa58bde553e773d3.JPG  Side View

     

    Rear Differential

     

        The Differential Cover was Glass Beaded then hand sanded with 400 grit sandpaper.   Then the cover was polished wih Aluminum Buffing Rouge  

    on the Buffing Wheel.

    IMG_2092.JPG.ddb96767e4ed83d5a11a957439ef2db8.JPG

     

     

    IMG_2095.JPG.82610a826ac636cf0e115d4f01053f59.JPG   The Cover was painted with Polyurethane Clear.  The Clear will prevent the cover from dulling out. The Carrier was painted with black Polyurethane.

     

    I had forgotten that this R200 differential contained 3:70 gears.

    IMG_2099.JPG.80cc0eab0d8d196cfc9afc152b8c71bc.JPG

     

    This gear ratio is much better suited than the usual 3.34 gears in most 240zs.   Especially since, my T56 has a 2:55 First Gear.  The combination  should provide  Wicked  Acceleration.

    IMG_2044.JPG.b7f3172730226ed6b4c328ddc2ba9d71.JPG    LS3 Motor awaiting installation.

    IMG_2097 (1).JPG

  14. NEW CAR DOLLY-

        I constructed a new car dolly to move the body around for engine and transmission installation.   I used a lot of materials from "old car dolly".   This dolly was about one foot higher off the floor to make working under car easier.

     

    IMG_1998.JPG.f70019ca6d1b21e854e41891a71c5981.JPG  Bottom view of Dolly

     

    IMG_2001.JPG.541722cd66e495c7998bb9183d2098c0.JPG Side view

     

    After it was completed, I removed the jack stands and slid the Dolly in.

     

    WIRING HARNESS-

       The original wiring was in bad shape.   The tape was starting to unwind and was covered with Rustprooting  from in the quarter panels.

    IMG_1981.JPG.db89b98567c211e8cf27f17a0a6b62ec.JPG  What a mess!

     

    The wiring harness was hung from ceiling to straighten it out while I wait for the new harness wrapping tape from Ebay.

     

    Fuel Evaporation Hoses

        First,  the Vapor Tank was cleaned and sandblasted.

    IMG_1984.JPG.72153c4dbf038b2beb1bc4dd0b59fdd9.JPG  Using the Borescope, I checked inside the Vapor Tank.   It surprising clean.

     

    IMG_1985.JPG.62084f9aa8b33c8d413b674ad342f253.JPG IMG_1986.JPG.a5f6549e696e65dfcd43a29fa1b8ec3f.JPG   Then PowderCoated.

     

    The !/2" and 3/4" vapor hose had springs added to the hoses from pinching.    These were regular springs for now as the proper  hose protectors were unavailable until January.

    1507900222_IMG_2006(1).JPG.0a21b640294fee1adb5c2e2887f7ef8a.JPG IMG_2010.JPG.6b9a6df457233439d608da1e4ff1a53d.JPG

     

    IMG_1993.JPG.7cb7d5ef55ded11b7d96d8087c7e95ab.JPG  Vapor Hose diagram

     

    Hot Wheels 240Z modifications

     

    I started this project about May 2020.   Using the Hot Wheel Fugu 240z, I wanted to make it have opening door, hood  and hatch.   When I was a kid, I made model cars then modify them with opening doors and trunk.   Then, made tube frame and working suspension.  Even, advanced to lettering the race cars by hand.

    IMG_2051.JPG.9c0784922b8af08c5e81ac96e67c8a93.JPG

     

    IMG_2055.JPG.f52521b55c9d6d78ab795556b455851f.JPG

     

    I am keeping my eyes for a Hot Wheels LS motor and transmission, racing seats, roll bar and exhaust system.

    Then, paint this car when I am not working on my  Big Z.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  15. Sorry for my delay in posting, I was busy putting up Christmas decorations for my house.

     

    AN Fitting Installation-

     

     Wrap Electrical Tape 3 or 4 times tightly around Braided Line.   The Tape prevents the wire from unraveling.

     

    IMG_1938.JPG.06ea4c08a11d83a6ccc20c7f09022d1c.JPG Cut across the tape with a 24" Cable Cutter or use a Cutoff Tool.

     

    IMG_1939.JPG.d4636fbf2094cf466e95daee14348518.JPG  Cutter will crush the hose like this but just squeeze it till round again.

     

    IMG_1941.JPG.ffd8a1e22947466ee5e7b4ad4fac24ff.JPG  Tip-Wrap a Plastic Cable Tie slightly down from the cut.   I find it holds the braided wire tightly together ,otherwise the wire tends to spread outward when pushing into the socket.

    IMG_1943.JPG.3a22a50f74b364be7f11eb9068ff136b.JPG I wrap the socket fitting with a wrap of masking tape to prevent scratching.

     

    IMG_1951.JPG.a942257d5fb06c2ab45857efd06f56a7.JPGPut Socket Side in a Vise to hold it tight then push the Braided Wire Counterclock wise while pushing inward into the socket.  When the leading edge of the Braided Wire fully enters the socket, cut the Cable Tie off.   Continue push the Braided Wire in

     until the inner Black Rubber Hose( check by looking inside the opposite end) just barely touches.  Once that happens,  use a Felt Marker and put a line on the Braided Hose and edge of the Socket. 

     

      IMG_1944.JPG.f4278eae49291535a959a8df2da0f65f.JPG  Lubricate the Threaded Section of fitting with Light Machine Oil or WD40.

     

    IMG_1948.JPG.ab96bc61f96ff8d90ba58779bf122c1d.JPG  Screw the Threaded Section in by Hand Clockwise until it gets tight then use a wrench to

    tighten it down.  Remember to watch the Felt Line that you made.  If the Line moves away from the fitting is means that the screw is pushing the fitting outward and not screwing into the rubber section.   If it is, you have to disassemble it and cut it off and start over.

     

    IMG_1954.JPG.5cc43067d7d91b02c8e4ab7ccc8483d4.JPG     Finished product.   Of course, the Real Test is to check under pressure.

     

    This procedure was utilizing 6AN fitting which is 3/8" Fuel Line size.

     

    Braided Fuel Line Installation

     

    IMG_1963.JPG.52f8df899e5ef35de9ac04c22532516f.JPG  From the Fuel Pump to the In Line Fuel Filter then to the 3/8" 4Life Nickel Copper Fuel Line heading the Engine Compartment.

    IMG_1957.JPG.c384f949c76f489eef9f08a772569332.JPG The other( the closest) Braided Line is the Return Fuel Line to the Pump.

     

    IMG_1962.JPG.142783c2af2f2c8c54f501b6e5c1da65.JPGBoth 3/8" Fuel Pressure and Return Line in the transmission tunnel.

     

    IMG_1973.JPG.50eaa62ff055c4e299564860b0d48f45.JPG 

    Pic of Fuel Line Clamps.

     

    Made  from sheet metal then powdercoated Gold.   Used Nutserts to attach the clamps to the tunnel.

     

    Replacing the Door Hinge Pin-

     

       IMG_1834.JPG.15049d1a028644eb7323e049fc4148ba.JPGThis replacement two Door Hinge Pin

    came from Malta and cost about $50.  It normally takes about 4 months to ship but the first shipment was lost in the Mail.   So I finally

    got my set in about 6 months.  The pic shows the measurements of the replacement pin and brass inserts.   A machinist should be able to

    make in no time.   Usually only the Upper Door Pin wears out as the weight is mostly carried on this pin.

     

    IMG_1828.JPG.7e67962484a2141cc0b52b6e36b3906a.JPG  pic of assembled hinge pin

     

    IMG_1830.JPG.137c37d2cad656ec1bfbc9b8c5624573.JPG The Pin Bushing is removed tapping the pin out with a punch and hammer.

     

    IMG_1836.JPG.b4e08739898bbb0ef50edae812637642.JPG I used Anti-Seize on the pin to prevent further problems.

     

  16. Robert,   I think you are correct in assuming that a leaking hatch hinge liner was the main cause of the corrosion.   I inserted my borescope into

    that INTERIOR  LIGHT channel that holds both Right & Left hinges.  Only the hinge boot keeps water from entering the channel.   If you didn"t have those big rust

    holes there under the R/hinge,  water would mostly flow along the channel then go down the inside of the rear quarter panels.  Then the water

    would exit from either the front or rear wheel well edges.   To repair it. by cutting those rust holes out and cover the area with a sheet metal  patch

    welded on the botton side of the channel.   Use polyurethane seam sealer to the top side of the patch.   A new hinge boot will keep the water from

    entering.  

     

     

  17. Yes, I am trying to keep some things original as possible.

         Back to Fuel Pump Modifications:

          After measure the tank depth and setting the pump length. the pump was installed.

    1539194046_IMG_1869(1).JPG.a56d1f6d6f6e913c2f489971abf3e5a0.JPG

     

    This pump can be rotated any direction that you prefer without drilling new mounting holes.

    IMG_1870.JPG.71d99be483ddbdbfb6446c5dcd2c3515.JPG Left to Right- Return Line, Fuel Feed Line and Vent Line.

     

    The pump mounting bolts were torqued to 50 in lbs in a Star Pattern and three increments.

    IMG_1873.JPG.fd4bfac0418ed541a373c0de3f28f39c.JPG

     

    Using the Borescope, you can see the filter on the bottom of the tank inside the surge tank.

    IMG_1878.JPG.99ba68e484adb1efad16d46e96150bc5.JPG

     

    IMG_1877.JPG.0f0d09d0ae0723334d4726ac575f64c8.JPG  View of upper side of Fuel Pump

     

    Because of the Fuel Pump location,  the new Fuel Sender Unit had to be modified to clear the walls of the Surge Tank.

    IMG_1889.JPG.a955fb2b45f31a0f1cb6bc99ff13391b.JPG Using a Vise Grip, the Float Arm was bent to clear the Surge Tank Walls.   The Float Arm can be adjusted further after putting Fuel in the Tank and comparing Fuel Gauge reading,

     

    A 100 micro Inline Fuel Filter was installed between the Pump and EFI fuel Inlet.

    1072712015_IMG_1905(1).JPG.fd2b715591dc548c75cad148024f5fd1.JPGThis Filter 

    This Filter uses a Stainless Mesh Filter so it is reusable.

     

    A Two Piece Bracket is constructed to hold the Fuel Filter.

    IMG_1914.JPG.a4782f143b7af42b2e57d20d5157a224.JPG  It was made of 1/8" plate Steel.

     

    4Life Nickel Copper Fuel  Line 3/8" x 25 feet purchased from Amazon.   Came by Federal Express in a small 18" x 18" x1" box in 

    one big coil.

    IMG_1906.JPG.a421600f1ddb728ffccbd96a68c54ed5.JPG  Start by slowly unwinding the coil slowly keeping the roll as straight up and down as

    possible.   When the roll is about 6 feet high, it is time to go outside.   Use you feet to hold the lower part of the roll as you are unwinding and sliding your feet on the line.

    Keep going till the line is relatively straight.   Cut the line in half to about 12 1/2 feet long to make it easier to handle.   A straight piece of  1/2" electric conduit(about 7-8feet)

    was fastened to a portable work bench using two Vise Grips.  The conduit should be small as possible for the best result.

    IMG_1908.JPG.75fc8b2c38b9ada231c924c05561581f.JPG

     

    Sliding the tubing back and forth rotating the tubing at the same time.   Eventually the tubing should come out relatively straight.

    IMG_1909.JPG.e04c0fc29027af2e4b77af39f2ff734e.JPG

     

    Next Step to Make AN Fittings and Braided Steel Hose for the Fuel Lines.

     

    Happy Turkey Day to All!!!

    IMG_1914.JPG

    The bracket will be powercoated when completed.

  18. The picture is not that clear.  Can you take more at different angles?   The center section is cast and can not be welded.   The other possible 

    fix is to braze the lever (stamped steel) to close the gap and file to fit.  Filing will take awhile so do not braze more than necessary.   This will

    work as long as the cast side can take the turning torque.   

  19. I was fortunate to come across a Great Deal.   I sold my "old" sandblast cabinet for $350 then upgraded to Bigger One for only $150 more.

    IMG_1709.JPG.3a6e783dd0112f607eb7d2e676728d69.JPG  This cabinet is twice as large and has top and side access doors.  Plus it also came with a 4 foot high dust vacuum.

     

    Fuel Tank Modifications:

       My Fuel Tank was really rusty inside and had a lot of large dents on its bottom.IMG_1724.JPG.ba62946f81bba54fd26b86da5553be4f.JPG 

     

    IMG_1726.JPG.b3ddbb996f27a43f56869efcea0be3ef.JPGNote-Remember the Pads positions.

     

    IMG_1734.JPG.b93e458d4639f28baf6fbf42f4bcec95.JPG  After Blasting, the dents were more visible.

     

    The only way to remove most of the large dents was to cut open the top of the tank and push the dents out.  This method would  however allow for sand blasting of the inside of the tank.

    IMG_1737.JPG.f61506cff2570e75404cf0922e454d6e.JPG  After cutting the tank, a patch was created to repair this area.

     

    IMG_1770.JPG.80e209388f8b0631a8b9cf790bcf80b7.JPG  Visegrips and Cleco Pins hold patch.

     

     

     

    199182815_IMG_1753(1).JPG.57bf65d14bbbd8a63e47f9479c1e2d33.JPG  getting ready to weld

     

     

    All the mig welds were brazed over to further prevent tank leaks.

    IMG_1782.JPG.89b9792a8dc402d690a18814fc9d734b.JPG after Brazing.

     

    The welds were checked by applying 2 PSI of Air while spraying a Soapy Water.

    IMG_1777.JPG.ab9aefc678123891955a12fa7f66c24a.JPG

     

    IMG_1776.JPG.f057e7f90bf6d1b0f63e001b186b3bf4.JPG    Leaks are easily found with this method.

     

    KBS TanK Sealer Kit is an additional step to further prevent tank leakage and provide corrosion protection.'  This sealer covers the entire interior of the fuel tank.   It is also one of the few tank sealers that is not effected by ethanol fuel.

    Cost about $80 from local industrial hardware store.

    IMG_1810.JPG.5318ece1d21d615afb2bf3ffc6b70779.JPG

     

     

    IMG_1819.JPG.7c06dddd94950caa56d95973a7eab286.JPG Bottom of tank after KBS Sealer install

     

    IMG_1815.JPG.05efa1e4ff085c67299a387fed154987.JPG  Upper side 

     

    The KBS Sealer was also applied on the exterior welds for additional sealing.

    IMG_1837.JPG.08b68f9032b3f5fd6a678c6c30b3ce8d.JPG

     

    IMG_1839.JPG.a42a398e778f6697898c4f5e070b2a59.JPG

     

    I borrowed a Snap On Tools Smoke Machine.   This machine is used to check for leaks in automotive fuel and vapor systems.

    IMG_E1840.JPG.ae9c15e2ed86b71d74101d7e2e249ce8.JPG

     

    IMG_1842.JPG.8b7d2ff153c5ec9b1132eeb3218e6613.JPG  All openings first plugged up.

     

    IMG_1841.JPG.774a59c8a66a476077153bc7f559fedc.JPG  Then, Smoke is pumped in and for any smoke leaking.

     

    The Fuel Tank passed the Smoke Test so painting the exterior was next.

    1331827838_IMG_1846(1).JPG.cda69d167d97fcf82057a23562158a97.JPG  Epoxy Urethane Primer was applied.

     

    IMG_1863.JPG.d38cc93320a174f685c7e231b35397eb.JPG  Bottom View-after Urethane Black painting.

     

     

     

     IMG_1868.JPG.63915105c5d0691b5e0fdbc8bcec322c.JPG  Side View

     

    Holley #19-350 EFI Fuel In-Tank Pump( from Amazon $325) was selected for the task.

    905038381_IMG_1750(1).JPG.da390671cb21619985b9de38d215c0c2.JPG

     

    1089270860_IMG_1752(1).JPG.f1648d250be40505171582e34087fdc7.JPG   It is a very compact and well build unit.

     

    Next- Fuel Pump Installation and Fuel Sender Modifications

     

                                                                         Happy Halloween!!!!

    IMG_1855.MOV

     

     

     

     Got this borescope from Amazon for about $30.  It also can take very good pics too.

    IMG_1801.JPG

     

     

     

    IMG_1786 (1).JPG  The Fuel Pump Slump was constructed out of sheet metal and  brazed to the tank bottom.  Note the maze shape protects pump from excessive fuel movement.

  20.   Sorry for not posting for awhile,   I had some home repairs to do before the end of Summer.

       Undercarriage Work:

           Disassembled and cleaned then lubed and reassembled the steering components.

    IMG_E1668.JPG.e1e60b46f29cd7a8fa34eb233efa44fa.JPG     Disassembly, inspection and relubed

     

    IMG_1673.JPG.82b73ef54d3a5943d13a760327d89c78.JPG All parts were painted with Black Single Stage Urethane paint

     

     

     

    416885854_IMG_1674(1).JPG.4893b8b331cb1491811c502680748c93.JPG  The Gas Pedal Bracket was left as it depending on LS Electronic Pedal Assembly.

     

    Brake, Vent and Fuel Lines

    849547865_IMG_1682(1).JPG.1c4451fe1241d18c3233a8569476749c.JPG All Lines were wire brushed, primed and paint with Single Stage Silver Paint.

     

    One Part of the Drivetrain Tunnel was the Hand Brake Mechanism which was missing its Dust Cover Rubber Cap.   I found a !" chair leg

    plastic cap from the local hardware store that fit perfectly to seal the Hand Brake Swivel Ball grease in.

    1066332467_IMG_1689(1).JPG.4707c15b17bd4cee9503332f00a93f00.JPG 767876008_IMG_1690(1).JPG.ed4246acaf91e98a0b1b95d19be58655.JPG  Cap with hole cut on top

     

    Front Disc Brakes Modifications

         My WILWOOD 300mm Rotors and Four Piston Calipers arrived in time for installation.

    1723437426_IMG_1694(1).JPG.26313e5fef751346487b455405f2423a.JPG  From Techno Toy for about $1200

     

    1539228283_IMG_1711(1).JPG.ab40abd607e8920f6706e0f16d03d063.JPG   1722321703_IMG_1712(1).JPG.6b25442aa82c31cff817d2895fe8c695.JPG

     

    926720105_IMG_1717(1).JPG.f9808780d58ec0a94cd79611ced83ee2.JPG  240309141_IMG_1716(1).JPG.110c8b7f77934c6f9c8a39480b9e4873.JPG  

     

    149974822_IMG_1718(1).JPG.9b392adb7cf3edd3728eb23fef323fc1.JPG  IMG_1720.JPG.7a7824c819d6b1cad02ecf943c2e5f06.JPG comes with braided stainless steel lines.

      I replaced the Master Cylinder Assembly with another 7/8" one from ZDEPOT.   OEM master cylinder assemblies were only available for about $300 as compared to ZDEPOT for $100.   But the output brake lines must be bend to fit for ZDEPOT one.

    462391547_IMG_1700(1).JPG.9af82acba14ff36e420fb97bf2e5eeab.JPG

     

                                      ZDEPOT                                                                   OEM   Master Cylinder

     

    1480586821_IMG_1706(1).JPG.09040dae241800c3fcaaab8bfe01c259.JPG  Note- Difference in Outlet Fittings in both assemblies

     

    IMG_1708.JPG.d0210ec39bc63986b56d6b7ceb650d62.JPG   Also Note-Differences in Reservoir positions 

     

     

    5999621_IMG_1693(1).JPG.a97db834b81165853520d0874f25e9c6.JPG   New Brake, Vent and Fuel Clamps were fabricated for the drivetrain tunnel section.

     

    1357450610_IMG_1698(1).JPG.8d8a51755565d8e4716c0d69f103545d.JPG

     

    Next thing to work on will be the Fuel Tank  modified for In-Tank Electric Fuel Pump.

     

     

  21. Mounting Rocket Bunny Rear Soiler

       The Rocket Bunny Body Kit does not come with any instructions for installation of its components.   So the builder has to come up with

    his own methods of installation.    The rear spoiler is no exception.   I decided to mount the spoiler by fabricating Two mount plates that were

    installed inside of the spoiler.

    1701466779_IMG_1614(1).JPG.00cf338aa5ccca4a19b46b7b4b39303c.JPG   Each mount consisted of Two 5mm x .8 x 16mm bolts that were tack welded to

    a 1/2" x  3" long 16 gauge sheet metal plate.   The mounts were mounted on the both side edges of the hatch.   The existing hatch edge was

    1/8" thick already and strong enough to hold the spoiler on.

     

    IMG_1615.JPG.69a2732ebd496d99cd45cb51ed41a5d2.JPG   Test fitting the mounts

     

    Create a cardboard template of mount to make sure the mount would fit inside of the spoiler.

    IMG_1618.JPG.b532ddccd0ed34c613069f52891f01c5.JPG

     

    I determined that  a 1" hole drilled in the bottom of the spoiler would sufficient for installation of the mount and not be "too large".

    The  bolt holes were also drilled at this time using the template.

    683713193_IMG_1622(1).JPG.8e0ea2581b46c4ce9a716d82347c8de9.JPG

    Using a long nose plier and  a little manipulation, the mounts were installed in the spoiler.

    2128479573_IMG_1624(1).JPG.e987fb600d7eef7fd7087205e88cbeb3.JPG

     Fibeglass resin and cloth were used to hold the mounts to the inside of the spoiler.   Installing the two mounting nuts would hold the mounts in place until the fiberglass cured.

    942030382_IMG_1625(1).JPG.2f96336e0bbff75e3e002c6e87366446.JPG  Note-Inner Single Bolt Spoiler Mount

     

    Two Black Plastic 1" caps from Lowes were a perfect fit to seal the holes.   I also added two 5mm bolts closed to the middle of the spoiler for

    added support.

     

    Restoring the Rear Tail Light Assemblies

      A picture of the "Before" restoration of the Tail Light Assemblies.

    IMG_1475.JPG.af6e42833fc8cf0070d16b6333ba4d75.JPG

    Note: dull finish, dents  and chips.

    IMG_1476.JPG.7f61270ed0d184eabea4320a055244e6.JPG

     

    The Lens was polished with buffing wheel and chips were filled in with epoxy.

    Krylon "Lookinh Glass" spray paint  was utilized to provide the "Chrome Like" twin parallel bars of the lens.

    IMG_1480.JPG.39dfc63d05428c4184791b8c913ce239.JPG

     

    1916159589_IMG_1485(1).JPG.b018804df2dc530d42371f37ef88edd4.JPG

     

    To give the Tail Light Assemblies  additional "POP", Polyurethane Clear was sprayed over the lens.

    IMG_1632.JPG.c7a899e37c0d670590abedba70001394.JPG

     

    Tail Light Assemblies installed.

    IMG_E1634.JPG.0df8dd118e6aa319c1ea89a5a3a41fe3.JPG

     

    Spoiler Installed.

    IMG_E1635.JPG.a2ccbe312b08aed92066ec69d940b57e.JPG

     

     

      

  22. "Lost Part"

         I somehow lost one of the Hoods Accessory Door Spring Latch.   So I was forced to create one using the other one to copy from.

    IMG_1523.JPG.fcd53fec4fa2901484ea2ee50c4debdb.JPG Original, the Copy and Template

    It was constructed from sheet metal using pliers and a drill.

    IMG_1529.JPG.b5c25a1c22564292b0275687106013e9.JPG  Test Fitted then to be Painted to match.

    Restoring Damages Masonite and Plastic Interior Panels

    IMG_1554.JPG.e37989f03259d7f8c2a8b999d4d8c0d5.JPG cracked Masonite Panel

     

    1301071757_IMG_1555(1).JPG.fdb119235cd1aa1792e6c71f03cea34c.JPG IMG_1528.JPG.d1f126da0f16ea4d95ce7b0e3a2b3993.JPG  Fiberflex Rods and Fiberglass Screen Window

    Mesh were used for these type of repairs.

    IMG_1556.JPG.056da9b8518d2a1a78d809eaa25f5f56.JPG  Mesh with plastic melted over it created a strong

    repair.

    IMG_1431.JPG.4121456fd7d9b8e91ff92ac4a6738e3a.JPG

     

    One  Masonite panel was missing a large section so I glued a piece of  .0025" Aluminum Sheet

    to fill in the missing area.   Fast Drying Epoxy did the job.

    IMG_1577.JPG.0ef87d69f3a1d0c8f0731e8cefe89e68.JPG

     

    Vise grips held the patch in place until the Epoxy cured.

    IMG_1578.JPG.1f7ad9a00dc746b799676f7ba23c04a2.JPG

    Note- The hole in the panel is for Radio Speakers.

    Plastic Interior Panel Repair

    IMG_1586.JPG.ef54db81cc906373687f370387bac9a5.JPG Big crack in Rear Plastic Panel

     

    IMG_1588.JPG.6749b1f98e8b872ac78128f8bd6ab8ac.JPG

    The Crack was aligned then "tack welded" with the Plastic welder.  On the other side, Stainless Steel Mesh was covered with FiberFlex plastic rods to provide a study backing.   Then,  the otherside  of the crack was gone over completely with FiberFlex rods too.

    IMG_1584.JPG.1eea53b9679dbb669c39ba5812222308.JPG

    Painted with SEM TEXTURE Black paint and prep for painting.

    IMG_1597.JPG.b80e53983d538660c9eea9ca96218254.JPG

     

    IMG_1598.JPG.7e1da0957725434428de52971a862811.JPG    Plastic Interior Panels painted.

     

    IMG_1604.JPG.95d507667903b6d64c2fc0a8fc8bfa77.JPG Console paintedIMG_1612.JPG.79320ed2084312a77837536b6674750a.JPG

     

                                                                                                                                Closeup of Hand Painted  Console Switch Lettering                                                                           

    IMG_E1638.JPG

    IMG_E1639.JPG

  23.   I was wondering if anyone out there, knows anything about Love20bee-a custom wheel maker in El Monte, Los Angeles.  He specializes

    in making custom 3 piece wheels especially for 240zs.   His shop was featured on Hoonigan Auto Focus on You Tube.    

                                                                                                                                                                                Toolman

     

    His website: Love20bee.com has numerous pics of his custom made wheels-mostly JDM stuff.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

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