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toolman

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Posts posted by toolman

  1.    Back home to get working on the Z.

    IMG_0145.thumb.JPG.1981f934a72132ae964e833af4d2a71a.JPG  From Epoxy Primer to Body Filler.

     

    Body Filler used to cover minor imperfections.

    1239047732_IMG_0144(1).thumb.JPG.a328f297e395aa5d251677700ca99dc9.JPG Sanding Body Filler

     

    Then paining Polyurethane Primer Sealer on top of that bodywork.

    IMG_0148.thumb.JPG.7abd3d8564d4d788d17204be3aabe6b0.JPG

     

    Not to forget the inside of the front fenders,  the sealing of them was next thing to do.

    The wheel well deflector plate stripped and painted.   I decided to use rubber weather stripping.  I found 3M "D" shaped weather stripping on

    Ebay for $13 for 8 feet.

    1725099736_IMG_0149(1).thumb.JPG.b8124574643f1f0a257e140adb01ac7b.JPG  The hollow inside made very soft and

    a good weather stripping for the wheel well.

    IMG_0153.thumb.JPG.3dfe21b544edde1e428d9535d11a9b93.JPG  front view

     

    IMG_0157.thumb.JPG.6faf1d032ee27b3b4e8c3db30093480c.JPG back view

     

    Previously I had planned to use Dynamat or similar foil type of insulation for the floor and roof.   However, I decided to use Lizard Skin Ceramic Insulation paint.   It can lower the interior temperature 20 to 30 degrees. One gallon costs $100 on Amazon.  They also sell sound insulation paint(costs $100 gal) but it must be applied first(before heat insulation).

    IMG_0185.thumb.JPG.f5b89d08bf5af278d9acedf332532013.JPG

     

    Had planned to spray it on with a Schulz under coating gun but the coating was too thick for the gun.  So I used rollers and a brush to

    apply it.   A cordless drill was utilized to stir the paint.   Use low speed and in Reverse so the particles are not damaged while mixing.

    Application was done in two .020 coats allowing the first coat to dry to the touch.   Curing will take possible a week to completely cure  depending on weather conditions.

     

    IMG_0165.thumb.JPG.7402f58fcd9057951f203f36e820fffb.JPG

     

    All holes must be masked off to prevent over spray.

    IMG_0169.thumb.JPG.8ece892e87d6afac1726db6984ec0ecf.JPG  Areas to be painted are scuff sanded and all threaded holes are plugged.

     

    IMG_0195.thumb.JPG.2e8eb62aa503e87f386d271ef6dca81a.JPG After painting

     

    Ceramic Coating was not difficult to apply.   Cleanup should be done quickly as the insulation dries relatively fast.

     

    IMG_0191.thumb.JPG.2f95007819d0d2ecd0451a293d9e4f40.JPG  Pic of roof coated

     

    IMG_0194.thumb.JPG.0add3d0203fff10975030c284ca29e41.JPG Pic of seat area

     

    IMG_0193.thumb.JPG.7bda7646c88968d36530d4efcc0453ec.JPG  Passenger side compartment

     

    After the Ceramic Insulation is cured, I will probably top coat it with Polyurethane White Single Stage Paint for added protection.

     

     

  2. I just got back from Tokyo.  I managed to go Japan's Largest Automotive Store in Japan Autobacs Shinome located near Tokyo Bay.   The garage is on the bottom of this three level store.   The main store is on the Second floor and has a coffee shop there.  the third floor is the high performance stuff.

          

     

    Snap On tools on display in glass cases.  Snap On Tools tools sell for twice the US price.

    22DC88D6-9B5B-4706-8C80-04E02D3CC18F.thumb.jpeg.80b195e5723925f6e6d881bcefa1ba3b.jpegThat Snap On tiny tool box toy sells for $140!!

    Snap Tools on display.

        On the third floor, the high performance parts and accessories were on display.  They had the latest GPS., stereo ,DVD, and LED lights.

    And, of coarse, the garage downstairs could install whatever you purchase.

     

    68A67B68-3236-4609-84D7-86C37A93E07C.thumb.jpeg.20e45e866caf105cc71c1a0968da521e.jpeg   Helmets, gloves and gear. the Black one cost about $5600 USD

     

     

     

    64ED69F9-C9DC-4BD0-AE5F-E02FCC4BCBC8.thumb.jpeg.e8f18f6bd9b66e8f0a6c385908b1d900.jpeg     Steering wheels (Momo one was $300 USD.

     

    24BB04A0-536A-4ACC-8109-2FD6EE54960C.thumb.jpeg.66904cc9182df2f108bb475c290ed578.jpeg      Racing suspension parts-NHW strut was $1350 USD

     

     

    There was a rear driving simulator that anyone could try for a price.  It had loud speakers 3 TV screens and air shocks to give the real.feeling of a race car.0E6DF1BB-6A4C-46F4-810E-9387E4A8D5C5.thumb.jpeg.65ee8c404f4dcbf431e06417246e4ac3.jpeg

     

             I think the price was $50 for 30 minutes.    Unfortunately, I found about the simulator too later as I had to get back to Shinjuku before the afternoon rush on the trains.   Passengers are really packed like sardines during rush hour!!!!!

     

    3ECA51C7-2D57-4889-ACF0-0EBBC1B8E39F.jpeg   The store is located near Odiba theme park by Tokyo Bay near Tokyo Disneyland.

     

     

     

    364696C2-5018-42F9-A588-920AF6D0CE46.jpeg  Front Entrance of the store

     

     

    670E76D9-CEE1-4D98-8923-DF3D2206F0BE.jpeg  The Garage Area is Super Clean and well lite.

     

     

    06CB1B2F-D133-437A-ACE2-BCD925C76441.jpeg   Mechanics even wear white gloves when working.

     

     

     

    84C5893D-C062-4F3B-82CB-0EA535E7B603.jpeg   Only High End Wheels no China Stuff here. 

    12D96AF6-A4C5-4149-BF55-A1748A7D493B.jpeg  !/6 scale Skyline motor  very detailed.

     

    0CED514D-31A1-4E3E-BA10-E13D953D8E94.jpeg   Bicycle and accessories

    55A01ABA-9039-42E6-857F-D6554332B637.jpeg    Aisles of assorted stuff

     

    There is a large area with only automotive books and magazines next to their coffee shop.

    DA0984B4-4DBB-4FFF-912F-145CDDEBA98C.jpeg   Everthing automotive under the Sun is here.

    09FE9955-ED71-4E6E-B5AC-82C45FA557D9.jpeg  Leather jackets

    E2FE3566-2226-46FE-B9CA-4FF21EEBCF1D.jpeg Kids $500 electric

    cars.

     

     

    4B80FD36-4F0E-41D0-BC18-6BC8B29001B1.jpeg   Kids seats

     

     

    2BC444E6-78A3-4F50-AD59-CA73300EB7BB.jpeg more seats and seat covers

     

     

     

    F4E7BD21-AAB1-497C-BF8A-1D5D3CD40D63.jpeg  $1000  Mavics RC Drones

     

    4D6D1888-1503-4F85-9136-5858BF52D40E.jpeg  This Skyline motor

    sells for $300 but is well detailed.

     

    B9024A99-255A-4973-AD84-E812E867A989.jpeg  wiper blades

     

    0B8FF908-EF1A-4AF6-9920-B1F71F8F3EA9.jpeg  Pet accessories

     

     

     

    0E7D1092-10FE-4B43-8FC0-992BB8402804.jpeg  Snap On floor jacks-the silver one sells for$200(about $100 in US)

     

    Can't wait to start back to working on my Z.    SEMA SHOW 2019 is less than a month away. Viva Las Vegas!!

    110C824D-095D-4BCC-8FCF-BB3A5FC18ECF.jpeg

  3.     The door hinges for both Left and Right sides were top coated with Polyurethane paint.   

    IMG_0005.thumb.JPG.eb57180d175a5319b0aa2671aed3ddbc.JPG

     

    Shop Tip- Removing and Installing a 240Z hood by yourself

    Place a Plywood on top of the Left and Right fenders.   Put hood in the closed position.

    IMG_0014.thumb.JPG.bb61750003ec677a4502cee3b6cb805e.JPG Put card board or padded mat under plywood to prevent scratching the paint.

     

    Raise hood to open position.     Loosen all four hood bolts but do not remove.

    IMG_0016.thumb.JPG.c0fd84a4f8d70e69e7d311d11ac95376.JPG  Remove both hood front bolts.

    Now tilt the rear of the hood downward till the hood contacts the plywood.   Then remove the rear hood bolts as the hinge and plywood will support the weight of the hood.   The hood can be lifted off from either side of the car.   Hood installation will be the reverse procedure.

     

    The next thing to do to spraying Raptor Liner in the fender and wheel wells.

    IMG_0025.thumb.JPG.6ec744091eb2489ce2989b3441005020.JPG   This Raptor liner was the 2 bottle kit with Liner, hardener and color toner..

    This kit costs about $100 including freight on Ebay.

     

    Masking the hood to prevent overspray going all over the place.

    IMG_0030.thumb.JPG.9cacc071a89d12006a434ad31d7bd227.JPG

     

    The interior sides of the hood and fenders were sanded with 150 grit sand paper then wipe down with paint prep solution.

    IMG_0029.thumb.JPG.b411cebf05a5607042940c6cab51083f.JPG

     

    view of Left side Wheel Well Housing afterspraying.

    IMG_0031.thumb.JPG.a3ca1e4441388ca2797fe1dfa2c7b644.JPG

     

    Right side Wheel Well Housing after spraying Liner

    IMG_0032.thumb.JPG.34553855172b08d7cad6d227fade9630.JPG

     

    IMG_0037.thumb.JPG.fa2a106d6a3e2d309ceff88af1c99a54.JPG  Right side fender interior view

     

    Inside Right Door view

    IMG_0038.thumb.JPG.f9da1d1941062e81576b72047254584d.JPG

     

    Closeup view of the Raptor Liner on Wheel Hosing

    IMG_0035.thumb.JPG.53bf7d08db1aff97e66332e07344b781.JPG

     

    Inside Right Fender

    IMG_0039.thumb.JPG.decb65819453bc946faeadb673cce226.JPG  Note- Liner even covers patch area.

     

    Left side Wheel Well Housing

     

    IMG_0040.thumb.JPG.75ddb32dd92765ce57fcb8185c9d7204.JPG

     

    The Raptor Liner can be applied by hand roller or sprayed.   A Schutz gun is most commonly used to apply the liner.   HLVP spray gun with 2.0 nozzle can be used if liner is reduced by 20%.  This method would provide a smoother finish( not as rough}.   After one hour, the liner is dry to touch.  It, however. takes a full week to completely cure.   I used only one bottle of

    Raptor Liner so far.   The remaining bottle will be used for the rear wheel housing after I finish flare modifications.

     

     

  4. PROJECT TIP:   I am posting this tip as it may be very helpful to a lot of people.  RESCUE BIT is a high speed cutting bit that will cut through broken taps, extractors just about anything.  Check the video out at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FkIH7DhQJzA

    In my case, I was tapping out the bolt holes of my struts.   Of course,  while tapping the last bolt hole, the 6mm x 1.0 tap broke.

    IMG_6739.thumb.JPG.7774a58b43e3ecfa28ad7c08aa04ac0b.JPG Pic of the Broken tap

     

    This is a picture of a 1/8" RESCUE BIT with cutting edge on both sides.   The 1/8" version must be used with a 1/8" adaptor to use it

    in a 1/4" die grinder.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  IMG_6740.thumb.JPG.794a3abee038d602b5daf9202dc03739.JPG Pic of 1/8 to 1/4" adaptor.    Rescue Bits also use to have 1/4" burrs (single and double cut version) too.    Now the Rescue Bits can be found

    on Amazon and Ebay but only here and there.   I don 't think the company still exists.   I do keep one around for emergencies like this one.

    IMG_6745.thumb.JPG.6d35c46152ed3db448cffe0a7b99a927.JPGAfter drilling a hole in the center of the tap.   I use a small sharp punch to collapse the walls of the tap inward.

    IMG_6741.thumb.JPG.d335173d44ed45c125c41997336e89cd.JPG

    Here is one the larger pieces of the tap that was removed from the hole.

     

    IMG_6743.thumb.JPG.38746428e2137b6a0a369b8890af6460.JPG

    After removing all remains of the tap,  I carefully tapped the hole with a new 6 x 1.0mm tap.

     

    IMG_6746.thumb.JPG.f32b8fd49b4a29895d0c1ead7ae90954.JPG

      

    Success-bolt was threaded in!!     It is important to  carefully follow the instructions that come with the Rescue Bit.  Also. the die grinder

    must be capable of 25,000 RPM.   High speed and the bit design is what allows the Rescue Bit to do what other bits can not do.    I  hope some of you find this tip helpful.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          

    IMG_6738.JPG  Rescue Bits costs about $60 online.

  5. When the Postman brought a large box for me, I ripped it open immediately-it was my CRX Racing Coil Over Suspension kit.

    814947767_IMG_6687(1).thumb.JPG.722b97e2beb39fda8391da6da3ce733e.JPGShorter ones were for the Front and Longer ones for the Rear.

    The cost was $850 plus $150 for freight.  CRX has installation instructions at their online site.

    Installation is simple.  You cut about 2" to 2 1/4" from the bottom of the strut tube then weld the external sleeve to the strut base.

    IMG_6688.thumb.JPG.1337123b92762523f517b2f690ff918f.JPGBottom sleeve and coil over strut section.

    I measured the length of the coil spring to record the spring preload.   The lower threaded section allows you set the ride height that you want.

     

     

    IMG_6692.thumb.JPG.b9981a59e0101bf347584c5b660181c9.JPG   Strut disassembly

     

    298589482_IMG_6694(1).thumb.JPG.fa23f60cccb4924ce201583e40694f99.JPG  Struts were disassembled and sandblasted to prep for welding.

     

    After taping the cutting line, I started the cut by using a hack saw.

    1305988994_IMG_6696(1).thumb.JPG.e8f25829a0463da98901920d3c78242b.JPG

     

    1135889332_IMG_6698(1).thumb.JPG.0dfea442c01461835dfa72d07d8b20de.JPG  Then a SAWALL was used to finish the strut sectioning.

     

    IMG_6720.thumb.JPG.b542225bdf336ad093187b50b6fa585c.JPG  Sectioning completed

     

     

     

    The Front Spindles had a casting bump between the tube and spindle casting.  I sawed a V cut in it to provide more welding space.

    The Rear Spindles don't have any casting lump.

    IMG_6714.thumb.JPG.09c0049db7a49f83606f21f93aeb1d97.JPG Welded up spindle

     

    All four struts were sent out for powder coating as it is too bulky for my small oven to heat up.

     

    All four Spindle Backing Plates needed cleanup to be powder coated.

    IMG_6722.thumb.JPG.b5a682573e51d377a401692b8653fcf0.JPG      IMG_6724.thumb.JPG.280b4a53a06f2036418b89ed681acc87.JPG

     

                                       Front Backing Plates  after Powder Coating

    IMG_6725.thumb.JPG.3253c579811653eceb8c97f23eb8435e.JPG

     

    Rear backing plates powder coated

    IMG_6781.thumb.JPG.130b423af149390d7dc2d5636537d215.JPG

     

    Hopefully, the Powder Coating guys won't take too long on the struts so I can put the suspension back together.

    Trying to decide whether to use Bedlinder(Raptor, etc).  Anybody have any comments about Bedliners?

  6. Next thing to work on was the rear control arms.  First, I cleaned them up to remove any dirt and grease.   Then, they could be sandblasted with 

    #80 grit media.   Next, removing their inner bushings was next.   Using a air saw, I cut two parallel cuts in the inner  metal bushing.

    IMG_6729.thumb.JPG.0a407dcb311e8d4372010dbec53e418b.JPG If you don't have a air saw, you can use a hack saw. But you have to take the blade off

    the saw then stick in the bushing then reassemble the saw.   Saw two parallel cuts through the inner metal bushing.   Remove it and use a

    air chisel to push the inner bushing out.

    IMG_6728.thumb.JPG.d54bb08af517975f7cdb5b25586314ae.JPG

     

    Try to get the bushing to collapse and fold over.    If not, use a torch to burn away the rubber portion of the bushing.

    IMG_6730.thumb.JPG.fa068fc564e7c855b0e05b270c8cafaf.JPG  Besides the burning rubber, avoid being burned by hot rubber pieces.

     

    Remove all the rubber from the bushing with a wire brush.

    IMG_6732.thumb.JPG.d3f7e9dd98a12b72951f67da4333f52a.JPG

     itself

    Now, use a Sawzall to cut two parallel cuts in the outer part of the bushing.   Be careful not to damage the control arm while doing this task.

    Use a air chisel to collapse and push the bushing out of the arm.

    IMG_6770.thumb.JPG.dfcaf8f0428edeb0f4ae67323dcc18c4.JPG The removed outer bushing should resemble something like this.

     

    If the control arm was damaged while removing the bushings,  you can repair it before installing the new bushings.

    IMG_6734.thumb.JPG.12f73c6541b82743b8b2d1c04e1a8372.JPG

     

    The control arms ready for powder coating.

    IMG_6736.thumb.JPG.569797f1bf20fd7131ab9292ca993bdb.JPG

    .

    Control arm in my powder coating oven.

    IMG_6737.thumb.JPG.d589412e8c2d3be550cf4e34de6ce197.JPG

     

    Now, I have to wait till my control arm bushings to arrive so I can press them in.

     

     

     

     

  7.   The wheel fitment tool was designed to  go to even  a 12" wide tire.

    IMG_6661.thumb.JPG.f62bdad90cfe34df6440593e62d679ba.JPG  As I only had a 8" wide tire, one has to imagine the other 4" extending inside the fender.

     

     

    First, Zeroing the Camber gauge

     

     

    IMG_6598.thumb.JPG.9a2705c6c521294d0bc94cfcbaf31704.JPG  Camber gauge zeroed in.

    Then, holding the straight edge with camber gauge against the outside of the tire.

    IMG_6625.thumb.JPG.1274c91a589249b402f8b2524f4ecf0a.JPG  The Camber reading is 1 1/4 degrees Pos  

      IMG_6646.thumb.JPG.966a41dcac63caac0cd9c905833d08ca.JPG  This wheel/tire combination would require a 3" fender flare.

     

      In this case, the wheel had a 2" Negative offset-the wheel center was 2" inward of center of the wheel.

    IMG_6685.thumb.JPG.2697dc5eef9b417fe076c1151642b576.JPG

     

    The 245 X 18 X 8  offset wheel/tire combination looks like this from the front view.  A mild street look.

    .IMG_6658.thumb.JPG.40a90b56c5558fdb54e5a8848880d2aa.JPG

     

     

     

    Do not forget that the ride height is still not correct.   The present ride height is about 3" to 4" higher than what it will be with the new coil over suspension.   Lowering the vehicle will create negative camber and bring the camber to closer to a zero reading.   Also, keep in mind, these are only simulations and I am going to larger tires and wheels.

     

     

     

     

  8.  Back in 1971, this 71 240Z was my First and Only Car.   It was a Total Wreck- the owner ran it into a large Bulldozer parked on the side of the road.

    My father owned a automotive body shop which had 5 frame machines.   We fixed often repaired totaled cars.   So we put it on the frame machine

    and pulled it straight with multiple 10 ton hydraulic rams.   Then the damaged pieces were replaced with OEM parts.   I drove the car "stock" for

    about a year but decided it needed more power.   I first checked into modifying the Nissan 6 cylinder motor by Weber carbs, turbocharging and 5 speed racing transmission).   But those options were way too expensive.   Being a Chevy drag racer, putting a Chevy 327 motor with Turbo 400 transmission seemed like a easy answer.  So after gathering all of the needed parts, I pulled the old six engine out and put the 327 in.   I had the car running in a week time because I  had to use vacation time to do the conversion.   At a later date, I put a more  powerful 350 and T-5 five speed trans and put metal flares on.   In 1988, I bought my second car 88 Chevrolet Astro Van for business.   My 240z was basically sitting in the garage

    since that time.   So I owe it to spent some time restoring it as the best that I can do.   I hope this story explains my restoration.

        Back to the restoration:   I put the  Wheel Fitment Tool on the car to check the wheel alignment out.  But first, had to remove the strut coil spring as it won't allow the body to drop as there was no engine weight and accessories.

    IMG_6562.thumb.JPG.8615f5fa670f2e7399de1f3170704f84.JPG Took out spring

     

    Put the Wheel Fitment Tool to test it out.

    IMG_6602.thumb.JPG.5cd6ace946fef2f757bdabadac42f73f.JPG       IMG_6603.thumb.JPG.7ea38175a0038a992a9585de22731753.JPG

    Wooden blocks were placed under the lower control arm to adjust ride height.  The car is still on a dolly which lifts the vehicle about 1" higher than a stock Z.

    IMG_6573.thumb.JPG.952aa87e251f377a466c85d6c8da1c21.JPG Using a Tool Aid Wheel Alignment gauge to check Camber readings.

     

    A carpenters square shoed the hub to be close to zero so I set the gauge to zero degrees,

    IMG_6572.thumb.JPG.3dfc45d8828fe3a8d0f1eba9939a5456.JPGAfter checking the Square with the ground, I reversed it to better demonstrate camber.

     

    By tilting the straight edge top outward(away from the car) to stimulate Positive Camber. 

    IMG_6574.thumb.JPG.95cba0209ed5b48821336f91dde84291.JPG          IMG_6573.thumb.JPG.bacf88b0ff5b7e54dc2bcd68ab2813ea.JPG  Positive Camber

     

    To stimulate Negative  Camber, I titled the top of the straight edge inward( toward the engine compartment).

    IMG_6604.thumb.JPG.7fe30ed1dbd44d8974f81fcd73fe838a.JPG            IMG_6578.thumb.JPG.27084374ed854ef4fa4cc8763360a202.JPG  Negative Camber

     

    I think there was a misunderstanding about what I trying to accomplish.   In my particular case, I am trying to eliminate as much Negative Camber that I can.   Lowering the car with shorter springs, lower ride height, extra wide wheels,etc will create a lot of Negative Camber.   Shortening the lower control arms, upper camber plates, modified spindles,etc maybe utilized to provide Positive Camber to achieve alignment.  My car will be basically a Street Car and not a Race Car requiring 3 degrees Negative Camber.   Now, you can even change front and rear crossmembers to get the alignment that you want.        

          

  9. To me, Apex Engineering did an excellent job on both front and rear suspension upgrades.   Considering the upgrades are basically a bolt

    on kits, a lot of thought went in its design.    The only problem that I can see is having the rear coil overs operating in the hatch area.   In a race

    car, the noise and danger from moving parts in the passenger compartment would not be a problem.    In a street car,  those problems would arise.

    However, maybe they thought of it and have conventional  struts that would work instead.   Awesome design.  I would consider using the

    rear upgrade as I will have a Rocket Bunny Body Kit.

     

      

     

     

  10. Threaded inserts-5MM -.8 were used to fastening the roof of the cowl vent.

    IMG_6486.thumb.JPG.5d117c35048c894d2183994224b49535.JPGThis will allow easy removal at a later date.

    5MM-.8 stainless steel screws hold  on the roof section.

    IMG_6488.thumb.JPG.d515b3d54858778c3dd8c801f3a363b7.JPG

     

    Finished cowl vent.

    IMG_6499.thumb.JPG.4fc42e8a68a496c2be9642cdb05d8676.JPG

     

    The battery tray was finished using seven  8mm-125 stainless steel bolts and threaded inserts to hold it down.

    IMG_6498.thumb.JPG.fadcc3b57372c3969aef531423c6ba65.JPG

     

    The four 1" holes in the frame rails were plugged by 1 1/4" white plastic plugs found on Ebay.

    IMG_6490.thumb.JPG.0d898dfcb73afb9f4e2f6b8915e74025.JPG           IMG_6492.thumb.JPG.fe1e526b4b9ddd78cbdd01e19520b177.JPG      

    A 1" clear plastic hose was inserted into the plug.  This forced the plastic arms to expand outward and provided a tight fit.

    IMG_6496.thumb.JPG.6ca1ed079ead41b01bbd48165b9f83a6.JPG

     

    After installing the engine crossmember, I needed to replace the camber eccentric in them.  Old ones were worn out.

    IMG_6513.thumb.JPG.dc837130de7608b2222d7f7cfb0bd779.JPG

     

    69-70 Dodge Darts had similar ones.  This is NAPA version of eccentric camber adjusters for only $25 for two.

    IMG_6512.thumb.JPG.b3a09c60687840af49768c237fb03220.JPG           

     

    IMG_6515.thumb.JPG.1c9b7827c08e1a3d806d02d5f5fb96d6.JPG Locking nut side

     

       IMG_6516.thumb.JPG.d7b6643edc67181d0788629f447ce169.JPG Camber Adjusting nut side

     

    This kit gives about Plus or Minus One degree Camber adjustment.   Installation only requires slotting the bolt hole and  a little welding.

     

    Next Topic is the Hood Hinge torsion spring installation.   First, install  in either hinge, all  the three mounting bolts.   On the other side hinge,  loosely install only the mounting bolt on the hinge nearest firewall.   Plastic tie was used to hold the first rod(one on the left] in stationary position

    and also hold the second rod with hat in the swivel bracket.

    IMG_6525.thumb.JPG.1c6ee75cddff69cb678a4bca6874f9ca.JPG

     

        The plastic tie in the rods center holds them place.

    IMG_6526.thumb.JPG.637930de770ce294288acdc202b8da9d.JPG 

     

    Remove the loose bolt from hinge and move hinge assembly outward.   This gives you more working area.

    I used a 5 gallon bucket to provide support of the hinge while twisting the second rod with hat.  A strong twist is required to put the hat 

    into the swivel bracket.

    IMG_6532.thumb.JPG.10737ca26fbdd1c12d24c9d3c8a58fc5.JPG  Cut off all plastic ties. 

    The finished installation.

     

    IMG_6538.thumb.JPG.6e0d5368349c4996a5f70384e26d35df.JPG 

     

    Left side strut and tension bar installed.

    IMG_6541.thumb.JPG.63c761cf169fb8814d0446ed8b0d73d1.JPG 

    I have not decided what coil over setup to use yet so using stock (except Progessive Coil spring installed) for now.

     

    IMG_6542.thumb.JPG.ab821c8cc35994ed44268362733fac80.JPG

    Steering rack and stabilizer bar installed.                                                                                                                                                                                           

     

  11.    I decided to make my battery tray removable in case,  I wanted to replace it with a stainless steel one.   For me, the best way to install the tray would be to use threaded inserts.

    So after painting the engine compartment with Polyurethane Single stage paint,  I mocked up the tray on the engine compartment.

    IMG_6412.thumb.JPG.0f1f259c72c82523f46d4d5212682a91.JPGDrilled 1/8" pilot holes to hold the tray in position.

     

    But because OD tray over hang,  a right angle drill adaptor was used on my drill.'

    IMG_6414.thumb.JPG.77efbc74268c1f933cefe3c0f0b485b6.JPG

     

    Then, used Cleco Clips to hold the tray in place.

    IMG_6417.thumb.JPG.55d9a4b3e37a5d78da78cac146ebb514.JPG

    Then,  holes on the compartment panel to drilled oversize to accommodate the 6mm threaded inserts.  The tray was also drilled larger for the retaining bolts.

    A Astro Pneumatic threaded insert hand riveter was utilized for insert installation.

    IMG_6472.thumb.JPG.266c32350a056425b7c346cbcf1b9588.JPG

     

    But because the riveter requires a lot of space to be used, some inserts had to be installed manually.

    IMG_6419.thumb.JPG.0bd7123f7ea26f38791a6d1c61e650fd.JPGSo,  a longer 6mmx1.0 x 20mm bolt with two nuts as spacers had to be used.

    Turning the bolt clockwise while holding the nut spacers with a visegrip becomes a manual threaded insert tool.   The tool takes longer but can be use in really tight spaces.

    IMG_6422.thumb.JPG.1a85a0c11ad8aea7fe3b402febf68aaa.JPGIn this case,  a 8mm wrench was used.

     

    After add another two coats of Polyurethane paint to the engine compartment,  I decided to drill additional rust proofing holes on the engine compartment and rocker panel.

    IMG_6453.thumb.JPG.6649e358161f56925b4a5fde80c24024.JPGA Blair 1/2" hole saw was used as it provides a clean and burr less hole.

    Also, if used properly, the cutout section tends to hold on to the hole saw when finished drilling.

     

    IMG_6462.thumb.JPG.1a5e8368166e55b31ac18ea94ff90aaf.JPG   Left window cowl side  IMG_6463.thumb.JPG.6ca35597e8ef3560c417be0ef86010a9.JPG  Right window cowl side

     

    Interior rear roof bracing( near the roof and rear quarter panel joint)

    IMG_6454.thumb.JPG.55d9a9fb2a202529e6a566a1c7b16e3f.JPG

     

    The major area of corrosion for this car was the four corners of the rocker panel.   These area are double boxed for strength and not easily rust proofed.   So in these areas, I had

    to drill the exterior hole 1/2" to followed by another 1/2" hole to the inner box section.    I plan to use a Borescope when rustproofing to make sure I don not miss any potential rust

    areas.

    IMG_6473.thumb.JPG.8743a1711363359650d3e0c728b8bcda.JPGTthere is total of 5 rust proofing holes on L/F rocker panel section. Two more

    on the bottom area.

    IMG_6460.thumb.JPG.f3531eb94f75dfab05ae079164a50c64.JPG Right side bottom rust proofing holes.

     

    IMG_6477.thumb.JPG.0b7df261a0365ee7aeb128098e7b6df0.JPG Left center rocker panel section 

     

    All exterior 1/2" rust proofing holes will plugged with plastic plugs after rust proofing.   Only exterior water drainage holes won't plugged and will stay open.

    IMG_6450.JPG

  12. SH4DY,

        You might want to cover your frame with plastic sheeting( I used Black Trash Bags) to allow easy removal.   Even the factory dash has winkle marks over its bottom side indicating

    the use of plastic sheeting.  After all, nobody is going to see the bottom side anyway.  Hope this tip helps.

                                                                                                                                                  Toolman

  13. I managed to locate couple of Lincoln floor jack springs for my bottle jack on Ebay .  According its specifications, they should work.

    IMG_6334.thumb.JPG.6e36913b8035cc0296d1ecd41b63df2c.JPG  They worked!!

     

    Next, I fabricated a jack handle from a 1" water pipe.

    IMG_6335.thumb.JPG.5d737c2c906c15c090b1df21f0adcb93.JPG  Capped one end and grooved it so it could be a control valve and used as pump handle for the bottle jack. 

    After I finished the accident damage to my wife's Toyota Scion XD,  I noticed that there was a lot of grinding dust from my Z bodywork on the car.   If not removed, the metal particles would start to rust.   The best thing to use for this job is Clay Magic.   It removes particles, over spray,etc and it does not wear off clear or paint..

    IMG_6295.thumb.JPG.fa6ba4c281253367f9b5cf5c0d1510dd.JPG       IMG_6309.thumb.JPG.b03088f7c04994f56baddb8e5f5d3790.JPG            

    Basically, all you do is rub the piece of Clay Magic over the surface of the vehicle.

    As you rub also spray Clay Magic Lubricant to allow the clay to move easily.  After rubbing , you stop and kneel the clay( this pushes the contaminates into the clay.  Wipe the area dry with a rag.  You keep repeating this process until the surface is smooth and clean.  Note-Be sure not to drop the clay on the ground as the large particles will contaminate your Clay.    I put a Blue tarp on the ground to prevent this from happening.

    After Claying the car, I used a Dewalt polisher and 3M rubbing compound to remove any imperfections.

    IMG_6328.thumb.JPG.233d47bb137013adf104e57808e177cc.JPG  Finished car!!

     

     Now, Back of the Z, Both areas in the front portions of the rocker panels had to be patched yet.

    IMG_6349.thumb.JPG.f0e22adb288f9f24cd717d81c949e066.JPG

    Due to all of the curved surfaces of the rocker panel. this patch work would be a little more demanding.

    IMG_6351.thumb.JPG.4087897e88a9b719bc7fe2f79dad80c0.JPG  First. the ridge lines must be formed.

     

    IMG_6353.thumb.JPG.2f3d180d8fa3403a0c3698418affda5c.JPG After shaping, the patch was test fitted.

    Cleco clips held the patch to eliminate as much gaps as possible.   The alignment lines make sure the patch is installed in the right position.

     

    IMG_6363.thumb.JPG.ab9d76b80ad8ab13eb64e86b62e8933c.JPGAfter positioning patch, it was

    mig welded in.

     

    After which, the mig welds were covered with Epoxy to prevent any water leakage.

    IMG_6375.thumb.JPG.64c86a3683bb0270bf5cdaa96347a04e.JPGthen the area was covered with body filler.

     

    The right side rocker panel had similar rust damage.

    IMG_6377.thumb.JPG.b820267a42b860239b74d8c33bed3495.JPG

     

    The right side patch being test fitted.

    IMG_6378.thumb.JPG.5452338c15d8294664a066ec1c00524b.JPGthe black lines indicate high edges.

     

    IMG_6396.thumb.JPG.112f1ccdcb87e2d7a62c0f830ac4a0c7.JPG         IMG_6398.thumb.JPG.001c12aae397b4aaaac114d6f81b87de.JPGShaping of the patch

     

     Right side patch after body filler and poly primer.

    IMG_6402.thumb.JPG.6a1f637857acd98cc2ca9db43a91f02c.JPG 

     

    Left side rocker panel

    IMG_6401.thumb.JPG.86ff064bee2a55fb1bc7ba13f4582d9b.JPGNote, extra rustproofing holes top and bottom of rocker panel were drilled for future rustproofing then be plugged up.

     

     

     

    imageproxy.php?img=&key=14ddac2bd4ae7e57

     

      

     

     

     

  14. Finally, Got the front cross member back from the Powdercoaters.   It was too big and require more heat than my stove could handle.

     

     

    Started to clean up the front suspension parts for powder coating.   But first. the lower control arm bushings had to be removed.

    IMG_6121.thumb.JPG.4a3ac2a752e03d8ee6357736213f878c.JPG

     

    I used a air chisel to push out center metal part and surrounding rubber from the control arm.

    IMG_6126.thumb.JPG.0030371bd6d040ad55b83a617c7e937f.JPG

    Then, use a Sawzall to cut two grooves about 80% through the outer part of the bushing.  Be careful not to cut the control arm.

     

    IMG_6130.thumb.JPG.76f67092d96f68cea7264305c1d577d3.JPG

    Now, use the air chisel blade on the groove and chisel it.  If done correctly, the bushing will tend to curl up and collapse on itself without damaging the control arm.

    IMG_6139.thumb.JPG.e885487b0740204df9f1b07f5b9b1435.JPGReady to sandblast and powder coating.   Be sure it tape the bushing area with high

    temperature tape  or you might have to sand any powder coating that got in there later

    IMG_6144.thumb.JPG.a09566f2a9b29c5a0e55566d8f8f0221.JPG

    Unfortunately about this time, my wife had an accident while driving her Scion.   She hit a  Toyota Tacoma.  So I spent two weekends

    fixing her car.   Only good thing about the situation was I got a chance to paint the damaged area with Sherwin Williams Single Stage 

    Polyurethane Black Metallic/Clear  paint.  Ir was easy to work with and came out good.

    IMG_6171.thumb.JPG.b9a31559ae9cd6c1e96e4ec90cf2cf86.JPG Right door and fender were damaged.

     

    One of my customers offered me his old Snap On 12 ton floor press for Free!!  It was not working but I knew I could fix it.  First, I disassemble

    it and used  a 4 1/2 " wire wheel to remove the rust and old paint.

    IMG_6177.thumb.JPG.06849ec6544b074ef81af230cefa147d.JPG

    The Main Frame was welded together so it was way stronger the Harbor Freight ones.

    IMG_6178.thumb.JPG.7e03c5a2ea974f5cc923aeddc38c9ecd.JPGWorn gloves and safety goggles as the grinding wires fly everywhere.

     

    Sprayed Polyurethane Gray Primer on the parts.

    IMG_6184.thumb.JPG.f6a1e60ff358733a0dd33f9ae5d4c82a.JPG

    Painted the press with Rustoleum Sunshine Red.

    IMG_6189.thumb.JPG.9ea952b4c373dcc0a908261c0cffd648.JPG

     

    I had two 12 ton hydraulic bottle jacks -one was hand operated and the other was air over hydraulic one.   I used the hand one for now as I needed t

    press the OEM rubber control arm bushings in.   If needed, I can install the air over hydraulic bottle at a late time.

    IMG_6191.thumb.JPG.efff23b8cc24fcfdae7a52bab0a0cb73.JPG

     

     

    Lower front control arms with new bushing installed.

     

    I used two temporary ram return springs to install the control arm bushings.   The hopefully correct springs should get here by next week.

    The press should very useful to bend thick steel and installing bushings and bearings in the rear suspension.

     

    IMG_6287.JPG

  15. LLave,Thanks for the praise.  Unfortunately, I live in Hawaii so shipping would be a problem.   If anyone interested in making a simplified version themselves for about $50 materials and their own labor.  I think that I can draw up some" Do it Yourself" plans for its construction.  Only 4 1/2 grinder and a drill would be needed for it construction.  I think it could be made in a days time.   Please post your interest in "Do it Yourself" plans so I know people are interested. Then I try to come up with the plans and post on the forum.

         I found this on the Internet.   Anybody who does woodworking or has a Sand Blaster needs it.   It is called Dustopper.  It acts like a Prefilter to your Shop Vac.  It has no moving parts and runs forever.   Uses the Cyclone effect of the Vacuum to separate about of the  larger debris { about 90%) before the Vac.

    IMG_5824.thumb.JPG.0e5f3e4a70830008b6557694aacd80b0.JPGpic of the Dustopper

    The only things that also needed beside a 5 gallon bucket are some vacuum hose adapters.

    IMG_5827.thumb.JPG.b600691850f947d13cf9a3ddcecfd163.JPG

    I used NAPA radiator hose # 7746 and cut off a section to create a 2 1/2" to 2" reducer.

    IMG_6055.thumb.JPG.4bf07d4f61dd9608d0fc8f51f844f70c.JPGThe Dustopper with 5 gallon bucket.  The bottom bucket was not used and the

    Dustopper and 5 gallon bucket was placed under the Sand Blasting Cabinet.

     

    IMG_5893.thumb.JPG.679da17718ccba09c2ade6a07ed17c2b.JPGBefore the Dustopper even after a short time of sand blasting. the Shop Vac filter would be covered with dust particles.

    IMG_5871.thumb.JPG.9b63c6a0c86b7823ecc8338abb9a22f1.JPGEven the inside of the filter would have dust.

    IMG_6066.thumb.JPG.b073a4c238f0efda5b786af1475386bb.JPGThe bottom of the 5 gallon caught most of

    the dust.

    IMG_6060.thumb.JPG.a9c5f39ee73b5f0d921a71e9172fd83a.JPGBottom of Shop Vac-only a little fine dust was found there.

    If you use the Dustopper is used for wood working, almost all of the wood shavings and saw dust will be caught in the Prefilter.

    The Dustopper is sold at Home Depot for about $49 and reducer hose was about $10.  There are several different dust catchers

    available(Dust Depty,Cyclone,etc) but I think this one is the Best One.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

       

     

     

     

  16. To improved this tool to able to do even 20" diameter wheels,  I modified its design.   This was done by extending its main body.

     

    IMG_5754.thumb.JPG.163eaf1cacb4582469935ee298f58b90.JPG

    This new design should  now allow the tool to handle from 15" to 20" wheel diameters.

    IMG_5756.thumb.JPG.e26763c8f1dd0152fe0850957b5b14dc.JPG  The new fabricated main body laying over the design plans.

     

    Pic of the Clamping Slots that will allow the legs to be adjustable and still be able to lock them in place.

    IMG_5792.thumb.JPG.8ed33693163a343a1adefd254cb7bac0.JPG a 1/4" bolt holds the leg extension in place.

     

    The Tire Bead Holding Clamps originally had fixed channel that the tire bead sat in.  By adding a 1/4" adjusting bolt, would add additional clamping

    of the tire bead.   Also.the bolts built with the bolts coming from the outside to provide ease of adjustment.

    IMG_5773.thumb.JPG.337b8798761400c02f62b60cd6e9adc7.JPG

     

    All of the tool components were powdercoated    Measurement lines were created by grooving the metal with a 1/32" cutoff wheel on a 4 1/2 grinder.  Then,numbers and letters were hammer stamped then painted white to make them more visually attractive.

    IMG_6082.thumb.JPG.468dd824a05d87095f9d05b94777e3ae.JPG Legs #2 and #3 were notched on the bottom to provide clearance for 15" diameter wheels.

    The Sliding Track was also grooved for Wheel Width measurements from 6" to 12".

     

    IMG_6084.thumb.JPG.3e4fb75755fd5169af0e807fb4ee6b58.JPG

     

    The Tire Bead Clamps used 1/4" bolts and !/4" Wing Nuts to clamp to the beads.  Also, White grooved Line would indicate the Wheel Width Size.

    IMG_6088.thumb.JPG.35d467a7f2229cdf540fea9e58653610.JPG

     

    Pic of Main Body and 3 Leg extensions.

    IMG_6093.thumb.JPG.94c5e8213029d2266eb9dab55be2bdcb.JPG Wheel Diameters from 15" to 20"in 1" increments with White measurement Lines and Numbers.  Note: All individual parts are numbered to aid in assembly.

     

    This portion of the post I will go through the installation of this Wheel/ Tire Fitment Tool on a Tire.  Place the tire in the Upright Position.

    The Tool will be installed with #1 Leg  in the Top postion.  First, Place the Two Legs #2 and #3 into the lower area of the tire.

    IMG_6098.thumb.JPG.d05b79c4cfb95754784937ad0d8ad5c1.JPG The Two Inside Bead Clamps should be installed at Max end of Slot.  The Outside Clamps ae now installed into the tire beams but not tightened down yet.

     

    Put the Main Body into the tire on the Lower Tracks.   Install bolts and nuts but leave them loose.

    IMG_6073.thumb.JPG.678a4dff1c2af90b544bec6cde2258a8.JPG Set the Wheel Diameter, in this case, to18" then tighten down.  Also, adjust other side

    adjust and tighten down.

     

    Place Sliding Tracking #1 on #1 Leg Extension lift up into the upper tire bead with both #1 Bead Clamps(bolts and wing nuts) into the beads.

    Bead Clamps can be slipped in from the sides of the clamps if necessary before tightening up.

    IMG_6105.thumb.JPG.83937bb9049e86a9a8235674d5eb1baf.JPG

     

     

    Check the Wheel Diameter Measurement Lines.  They should be all at 18", adjust if necessary.

    IMG_6079.thumb.JPG.9936384d84614e7f96565aec51783a7c.JPG

    Tighten all Bead Clamps bolts just enough so the clamps don't move.

    The last adjustment is the Wheel Offset.   Tighten the Leg Extension to Rail bolts after you set offset that you want.

    IMG_6110.thumb.JPG.03fbf927002a0b9d086de36fe9543763.JPGWith a straight edge, measure from the back side of the tool to the straight edge.

    With this measurement, you compared it to the Zero Wheel Offset which is 1/2 of the  Wheel Width, in this case, both measurements are 4" so the offset

    is Zero Offset.    To test Wheel/Tire fitment on your vehicle, you must place a jack under the lower control arm to support the vehicles weight( as the this tool  can not support a car weight).   Leave a small gap between tire and ground then turn the tire and tool full left and right turns.   Check for any interference.   By altering tire diameters, tire widths and wheel  offset on this tool, you can easily determine the proper tire/ wheel combination for your particular application.

     

    IMG_6117.thumb.JPG.c4713600d9eb911d8469e21ba4593a12.JPGTightening the legs to set the Wheel offset.

     

     

    IMG_6120.thumb.JPG.afa878bf9b4378c0cb3f21073ee583d6.JPGtightening Bead holding bolt.

     

    IMG_6109.thumb.JPG.56992a223edf9b389427ed9f306e1137.JPG pic showing Wheel Width, in this case, was 8 inches.

     

    IMG_6078.thumb.JPG.a3c1331e2ded35d7ee28396661473574.JPG

     

    This Wheel/Tire Fitment Tool should end all those "How big of a tire can fit on my car" questions?

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    IMG_6107.JPG

  17.    I hope you guys don't find my post on my Wheel/ Tire Fitment Tool too long.   I gave a detailed account of its construction in case someone wanted to build for their own.

    This tool was build with full adjustability { wheel diameter, wheel width, tire width,etc) in mind.   However, if that feature is  not necessary in your case, deleting the adjustable feature can be skipped and built with specific specifications in mind.   By going this route, this tool can be built in only one weekend.

        The materials of this build are:  one 1 1/2" x  1/8"  x  20 feet of metal strap ( from metal supplier is the cheapest)

                                                                one  2" x  1/8" x  20 feet

                                                                one  2' x 2' x 1/8"  plate steel

                                                                 Total Cost-$ 35   less if you buy only what is needed

      Most of the work is done with a 4 1/2" right angle grinder with about Six 1/32" metal cutoff wheels

                                                             Two   4 1/2 metal grinding wheels

     

    IMG_5617.thumb.JPG.b15cb42ff73b30298113764c6bb91b29.JPGBecause of my crowded garage. I used my Powder coating stove for my designing desk.

     

    IMG_5637.thumb.JPG.40154b6b9b3af03b12edb131cecffac2.JPG My first design of the Fitment Tool.

     

     IMG_5633.thumb.JPG.f4fb87b6148ef1dce2f955ce5de47783.JPGActually I started drilling the hole with a 3" hole saw but the process was going slow.   So I used my Plasma Cutter instead and cut the hole in less than a minute.

     

    IMG_5669.thumb.JPG.6a074c2f292e6f5bdbd37ddd8c27e375.JPG Next, the Lug Holes were drilled out.   I went to the Three Leg Version instead of the Two Legged version as I felt the Two Legged version would tend to "goosehead" the tire.   While the Three Legged version would not distort the tire casing.

     

    IMG_5674.thumb.JPG.32e61b29d732271702d501194a5ab240.JPG  Mocking up the tool in a vise with the legs supported by visegrips.

     

    Now for the three Sliding Track supporting the tire to be built.

    IMG_5690.thumb.JPG.3bcac03d0d27757890794c0810dcf202.JPG I scribed  two lines 1/4" from the each side of the 2" x 1/8" strap.  These line provide the guide for using a  4 1/2" cutoff wheel to grind about 85% through the strap.  This procedure will allow the edges to bent up 90 degrees to create the 2" strap into a 1 1/2" channel.  The channel will guide the adjustable plates to slide on.   Also, the channel construction will add greatly to the structural strength.    In the center of the channel, 1/4" groove was scribed out for the 1/4" fastening bolt to run in.

    IMG_5686.thumb.JPG.03af79e89df28af334ce72760eea8e1e.JPG Then,  two !/4" holes were drilled on both ends of the scribed groove.

     

    IMG_5702.thumb.JPG.bb7983fd4f7f8a4686df8a5badaf76c2.JPG The 4 1/2" grinder with 1/32" cutoff wheels made repeated passes over the scribed lines till the groove was completely cut out. Following  that-File the edges of the groove to remove any burrs and sharp edges.

     

    IMG_5719.thumb.JPG.e04d259e70d7b5bfebbadc34c233a1b9.JPG Pic of Support Channel grooved and edges bent up 90 degrees.  Channel width-should be ! 1/2" to

    allow the 1 1/2" plates to slid smoothly along the channel.

     

    IMG_5724.thumb.JPG.b09098c1115794fdbcec4d3cc15ed6d0.JPG A 1/4" steel rod was  tack welded to bottom of the bent 90 degree edge for additional support and

    provide a sliding guide of the legs.

     

     

    IMG_5725.thumb.JPG.9f581bd0c90ec99caa4458c50678a588.JPG These brackets were made to be attached to the top of the Channel Support with 1/4" bolts.   Each pair will seat on the top of the inner tire bead and hold the tire in place.

     

    IMG_5711.thumb.JPG.3417eeb75dcafcce1fd1a22b35c804fa.JPG  Bubble levels checked the Horizontal and Vertical axis of the Three Legs and were welded up,

    .

     

    IMG_5728.thumb.JPG.759acc0114eea54270a93bf2c1fed10f.JPG  Pic of the Wheel/ Tire Fitment Tool components

     

     

    IMG_5737.thumb.JPG.45d12ea90f1fe40d7af0886a8c05efb1.JPG

    Wheel/Tire Fitment Tool mocked up on a Test tire'

     

    Still have to construct the adjustable design for the different tire sizes and measurement aspects.  What do you guys think about this tool tool so far?

    Barring any major problems, I will give a step by step guide to use this tool on my next posting.

     

     

    ,

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

                                                                  

  18. SH4DY, Check out Retro-spec/Datsun Z .   They have  nice Fiberglass and Carbon Fiber dashboards for the 240z.   The price is $449 and $999.   Looks pretty good.

    Maybe more people will let us know how the fit and quality really is.   They also hoods, spoilers flares ,etc.

                                                                                                                                            Toolman
    20170304_151658_wm.jpg.9892725f08ac6f0ca836f8cb5ad58c9d.jpg

     

    20161103_135814.jpg.eedda03db864ca133774f15011ecc4ad.jpg

     

    17343011_186491175185518_2862632047718376136_n.jpg.8b77f38a1882de230f83593df1bc7254.jpg

  19. Jeff, Yes, the hood hinges are riveted together and can not be taken apart.    When I removed the hinges from my Toater oven, they were a little stiff.  But with opening and closing them a few times, they were fine.   But there are plastic bushings used in the rear hatch hinges so be careful.   I would use some kind of  Heat Absorbing Gel just to be sure if I was you.  The door latches also use small rubber bumpers in them.   Powder Coating is thick and will tighten clearances a lot.   Use heat tape and silicon plugs when possible.   Hope this information helps you.

  20. I found that putting screws on a bamboo paint mixing stick to be a good holder of this type of items to be powder coated.

    IMG_5539.thumb.JPG.d2977a4cb4eb6b780b1a490f5025c0b8.JPGThe hole in the stick provides a way to hang it up in the oven.

     

    Cracked Interior plastic panels were  repaired using Urethane Supple Plastic Welder with UniFlex rods.

    IMG_5542.thumb.JPG.c3b59888278e3672f24e338efb40519d.JPG

     

    Finally got those white plastic headlight adjusting screws mounts from Ebay.  Took a month for it to come from China.

    IMG_5547.thumb.JPG.3a6db60cf7dfd4feea1fd839ac781503.JPG  Finally assemblied.   

     

    I managed get a Whirlpool oven( was only 3 yrs old} for $50.  It was hardly used and now I can powder coat larger stuff.

    IMG_5555.thumb.JPG.2bc919c5e46a69ca414a88ac8c1f66b2.JPG

     

    Put four swivel casters on a dolly to make it easier to move around my garage.

    IMG_5556.thumb.JPG.504063154001fa8fc8fbc024f56dc559.JPG

     

    The first item to be powder coated was the Datsun trim on the top of the rocker panel.

    IMG_5557.thumb.JPG.a1674a4597c2b71e5790bdd9c0886033.JPG Just fit!!

     

    Picture of both of the Datsun Trim pieces after Super Chrome and Clear powder coating.

    IMG_5550.thumb.JPG.807459fcdbd16eb77d0554342e360d94.JPG

     

    Front Marker Lights before Powder Coating.

    IMG_5603.thumb.JPG.924f1e1e03446e81e44eac8764466f9b.JPG

     

    Marker Light assembly after Powder Coating. The original light assembly was removed and replaced with a DOT LED light assembly.

    IMG_5566.thumb.JPG.36e99dc11c7de14562f3af46e5b24c96.JPG

     

    Pic of the Door Lock Assembly after cleaning and sandblasting.  

    IMG_5571.thumb.JPG.553a3c4df75ae2f85c9a1d34aa86b5ba.JPGNote-Be sure to removr all plastic and rubber components before putting in the oven.

     

    I used Mechanics Time Saver Hot stop which is Gel that absorbs heat when welding or heating near vulnerable parts.  I don't think this brand is still made.  But look

    in plumbing supplies etc for similar products.  It really works and evaporates away in 48 hours.

    IMG_5653.thumb.JPG.fc50f0254a1cfbf393f21d2c70d5efc4.JPG

     

     

    The front stabilizer bar mounts and shim plates after Powder Coating.

    IMG_5576.thumb.JPG.266b9636b21e44ef4721fdc5e1f384fb.JPG

     

    Pics of Interior Door Opener after Powder Coating.

    IMG_5580.thumb.JPG.40acd751c7231a3a84727bc324d3b3bf.JPG

     

    After Flat Black Paint applied to assembly.

    IMG_5582.thumb.JPG.0ca1ade12d38e8a4f0eca9769b47dfa2.JPG

     

    Dorr Handles Powder Coated

    IMG_5584.thumb.JPG.cb6abfb8faa837811aa36e02e423f5b9.JPG

     

    Unfortunately, the horns can not be Powder Coating as the Heat may damage their internal coils.

    IMG_5651.thumb.JPG.984542b6214183944536eafa811bffef.JPG

     

     My front crossmember had to be send out to the Powder Coaters as it was too big for me to do even in my New Oven.   When it is finished, I will start to reassembly the front and rear suspension.   My Rocket Bunny kit should come in by Summer time.   So the next thing on my agenda is seeing if I can make a Wheel and Tire Fitment Tool for my Z.

     

     

     

  21. walkerbk,  I had many items powder coated by a professional shop before this project and have good results.   Powder coating is even stronger than polyurethane paint if full cured.

    I setup a demonstration of powder coating using some of my power coated samples. 

    First, powder coating being hit with pointed side of a body hammer.

     

     

    IMG_5499.thumb.JPG.2a52897ad59c9e90512edeba00f46932.JPG

     

     

     

    Next, Hitting with a round punch

    IMG_5501.thumb.JPG.e851d3742849eb825f447762e08ddd80.JPG Note-the powder coating is dented but didn't peel off..

    Hitting a sharp punch with a hammer

    IMG_5506.thumb.JPG.153adf9c5ebf8830d54573a6602c0356.JPG

     

    The results are:

    IMG_5507.thumb.JPG.65349da965dbe833cf99db414b110045.JPG  Only the sharp punch pierced the powder coating.  Top view

     

    IMG_5512.thumb.JPG.7d5bc71290c807b76d95f884d76ebb46.JPG  Bottom side of test panel shows the dents and the sharp indention

     

    I decided to clean up and powder coat more parts.    By doing this now,  I would discover any parts that needed to be replaced instead of waiting till final assembly.

    So parts were organized in Ziplock sandwich bags for the small items.   Ziplock  large freeze  bags handled most of the larger parts.   The bags were all marked to

    identify the parts.

    IMG_5440.thumb.JPG.6b828db66a15833a15228c2d70bbe5b0.JPG

     

    IMG_5443.thumb.JPG.95bc17566073a442823746d17e927cc8.JPG      IMG_5446.thumb.JPG.69df1043068111694ec2a6c3031fa091.JPG      

     

    The following pics will show what powder coating can do in a restoration project:

    IMG_5450.thumb.JPG.8dfe204f40e71ace2653f939853eb55d.JPG   Before

     

    IMG_5458.thumb.JPG.817a38ceaacf863f291485ffa2c66cda.JPG  After Powder Coating

     

     

    Hatch hinges after Powder Coating.

    IMG_5534.thumb.JPG.d573e6dd1d2bbe48afab1b392555dfdc.JPG

     

    Hatch Lock Assembly after Powder Coating

    IMG_5493.thumb.JPG.cb5d441064f91f0493d7315fa0dced52.JPG

     

    Hood Lock Assembly after Powder Coating

    IMG_5482.thumb.JPG.bd2f8d6b8b9e458d8cab8f8064362e94.JPG top view    IMG_5483.thumb.JPG.2a34b320df53cb834fd24b4e54e15c7a.JPG   bottom view

     

    Hatch Guide Plates

    IMG_5451.thumb.JPG.cb4bceebe72fc743beffa3314795e703.JPGBefore     IMG_5465.thumb.JPG.dabe18ec46910f68a62401ece049e0c1.JPGAfter

      

    Door Catch Assembly and shim after Powder Coating

    IMG_5462.thumb.JPG.4c7482ecbefe413c7393d8432f55182e.JPG

     

    Assorted fasteners after Powder Coating

    IMG_5486.thumb.JPG.cf491d8d567f986cf9d484090ef41f89.JPG

              

    240Z emblems before Powder Coating'

    IMG_5480.thumb.JPG.2dc3f6b87103161adc3dbd1f0510b6d8.JPG              IMG_5514.thumb.JPG.46b2bde262a75c28bdb673273027bbe2.JPGAfter Powder Coating and Brush Painting             

    The windshield washer nozzles were cracked in several places.   They were repaired by putting brass tubing(from Hobby Shop) over the cracks.  Then

    lead soldering them in.   Painted them Silver after priming.

    IMG_5416.thumb.JPG.f994f351b9074e247aa180398cd14250.JPG

     

    Hood Striker after powder Coating

    IMG_5530.thumb.JPG.ae19af44cdb2a3de26fe3c48ad0c2d2d.JPG

     

    Hand Brake Cable Brackets after Powder Coating

    IMG_5489.thumb.JPG.c54c8f6ed6a4010ce15dd150ed87fa54.JPG

     

    Originally I thought I would only be Powder Coating the Under Carriage parts of the car but ended up doing so much more.   And still have a lot more to do.

  22. Thanks, Hu91gt,  I just returned from a business trip to Las Vegas.   While there, I made some time to visit Harbor Freight.   Purchased their Vibratory Tumbler for $54.   Plan to

    use it to clean up some of my parts for powder coating.

    IMG_5402.thumb.JPG.a0bdf59e824ead13556764b96c8eb559.JPG  This is their 5 LB version but have a bigger 15 LB available too.

     

     

    All parts were first washed in solvent to  remove oils and grease then blown dry.   Painted parts were treated with paint removers to remove most of the paint as possible.  Then, items were put into the hopper and run for about a hour.   24grit aluminum oxide used in the vibratory tumbler to remove even more rust and paint.  Finally the parts were sandblasted in the cabinet.

     

    IMG_5399.thumb.JPG.b65baf3280204f5545b2f642055e0fed.JPGFinally, the parts were washed with Lacquer Thinner before powder coating.   In those stubborn cases, a wire wheel was used to speed up the cleaning process.

     

    To get more powder coating space in my small toaster,  I placed the oven vertically and installed a 3/8" round steel rod to hang parts from.

    IQWF7561.thumb.JPG.c320d6cce75837162a4e4f60393a98b7.JPG

     

    .032 Aviation Safety wire to hang up the parts in the spraying cabinet and coating oven.

    IMG_5408.thumb.JPG.1c63d5f14ef022390f36626288aea05d.JPG Safety Wire is really strong, flexible and can be used over and over before replacing.

     

    A Double Extra Long Nose Plier was extremely useful in the tight confines of my spray cabinet and coating oven.

     

    IMG_5412.thumb.JPG.0d1d1f5d6d27172c2239f688c60d3aee.JPGNote-Multiple parts can be attached by utilizing Safety Wire.

     

     

    IMG_5405.thumb.JPG.24a7ddb5792f31046c3ed57ffc7303b7.JPG

     

    All of the Threaded parts should chased with the correct Thread Chaser( internal and external).   Taps and Dies will overcut the threads.

     

     

     

     

  23. SH4DY,  If you go to Cen III & IV Chevy V8tech board then HD Duty Frame rail posting. I go over in detail using a Motorsport Full Cap dash cover to create a

    Full dash restoration.   It covers refoaming under the plastic cover to making molds to recreate the lower sections of the dash board(that are not included in the Full dash cap.

    This dash restoration took over a month to do.  If you have any questions, ask and I'll try to assist you.

                                                                                                                                                                    Toolman

  24.   I found that turning my Toaster Oven on its side provided easier parts mounting.

     

    IQWF7561.thumb.JPG.fa5fe965eac71260d7edd31b823d0f21.JPG Also, Lining the rear wall of the oven with aluminum foil raised the curing temperature slightly.

     

    I used a long cardboard box with the 2500watt infared light to cure long parts.

    IMG_5239.thumb.JPG.c9fa2b6acca74b530382468a9febef2b.JPG  Also, lining the box with aluminum foil help keeping the heat from escaping.

     

    The top and side of the box was also covered with Foil.

    IMG_5240.thumb.JPG.3a935d09ea0b4d91fd4cae810a2fa59e.JPG

     

    The Hood Torsion Spring Rods were slightly longer than my Infrared oven.  So the rods were cured on one side then flipped over to cure the other side.

     

    The most difficult part of this powder coating job was trying to match the Chromate plating.   To achieve this. I used Super Chrome as the base powder

    coating.   Translucent Gold powder would be used as the Top Coat.    But there are about twenty different variants of the Gold color.   There are also 

    many variables in the application of the Top Coat powder.  The number of Top Coats applied over the base Super Chrome will make the color darker with

    more coats.  Preheating the part being coating aids in adhesion but changes the color slightly.   The speed of powder spraying  affects the color shade.

    The spraying distance from part affects color especially with metallic colors.   I made dozens of metal strips to test the various powder coatings.

     IMG_5340.thumb.JPG.63b999625d60b4f8ee69f337795bf253.JPG A new Rear spindle rod was used for matching purposes.

     

    If you used the wrong color, you can strip the powder coating off with Kwik Strip New Paint Remover.   This is not the old Aircraft Paint Remover with the toxic

    fumes and really messy.

    IMG_5210.thumb.JPG.506c33443adc8eb715fbaddfd4190564.JPGUse paint brush to apply Thick Coats of stripper.

     

    IMG_5214.thumb.JPG.060ff5d9d6cf49277f55927ffba5de09.JPGLet the stripper work for 15 minutes and then scrape off

    when coating wrinkles.   Then, scrape off using a plastic spreader.   Wear gloves and safety googles when stripping.  I took my gloves to take this photo.  A small

    particle of stripper landed just above my glove and it burned like Hell!!   The stripping process was faster than the old Aircraft Remover.   Less Fumes and

    a more "Dry" method.

     

    After Top Coat Powder Coating, the hand Brake bracket looked that this:

    IMG_5346.thumb.JPG.7bec9dc5afecc977f70fd1f0de903f06.JPG Note-The Light Gold coloring

     

    The Head Light Housing and Buckets come out like this:

    IMG_5338.thumb.JPG.ca0510b6ebbde256df0d75b827a88bb3.JPGNote-Gas Filler Cap housing

     

    Hood Hinges

    IMG_5345.thumb.JPG.561e41f0635bd17faca44245eaaf27da.JPG Note-The color seems to vary depending on the lighting.

    This effect was purposely done to match the Chromate plating as possible.

     

    The cost of this Powder Coating of these parts:   Eastwood Powder Coating Gun and accessories was$150 ,  SuperChrome powder was

    $25,  Translucent Gold Powder was $27. Kwik Stripper was $12.00,   2500watt Infared light(used) costs $50 =$264 Total       I intend on

    power coating a lot more parts( like crossmember,lower control arms, coil springs, etc.    I would recommend powder coating for any 

    restoration project.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  25. Finished the replacement aluminum glove compartment box.

    IMG_5179.thumb.JPG.a10b8f16bdf6f8633999135bb04c949d.JPG

     

    Rear side of box

    IMG_5180.thumb.JPG.081584525194d60dd9fff9c4b5273b00.JPG

     

    Now I went to something that I always wanted to do--Powder Coating.   So I ordered a Eastwood Powder Coating kit for $100.  A cardboard box was

    used for the powder spraying booth.  Note there is metal rod in the box to hold parts to be coated and act as the grounding for the unit.

    IMG_5183.thumb.JPG.71d441a635d0e7664abda20281c4869c.JPGThe system is low maintenance. Just blow air to clean the gun and bottle.   The booth can be

    vacuumed after every color coating.   Spraying the powder has a low learning curve.

     

    I would recommend this book before actual powder coating as it has many helpful tips.

    IMG_5169.thumb.JPG.3660c73558d796e8afdb3907f21abb05.JPG

     

    Pic of the before and after powder coating of the head light buckets.

    IMG_5168.thumb.JPG.785614403623df3cd757ce0166e0f4a2.JPGNote-the plastic headlight adjusting screw inserts must be

    removed otherwise the oven will melt them.

     

    The headlight bucket in my Toaster Oven for 20 minutes at 400 degrees.

    IMG_5170.thumb.JPG.0e2a60cad3d505a737af674a120b7762.JPG

     

    After baking, the bucket was moved back to the spray booth to cool off.

    IMG_5172.thumb.JPG.ed048071c1431b6d845283b8f890780f.JPGNote-The is only the Base Coating and must be followed with a Top Coat to provide the right color.

     

    Pic of the headlight assemblies after Base Coating.

    IMG_5184.thumb.JPG.f40a0dbffdd6151879d0af33ab316e2b.JPG

     

    Picture of hood hinge before spray blasting and powder coating.

    1720575725_IMG_5173(1).thumb.JPG.61025029db72c74104614e374a571e9b.JPG

     

    Hood hinges after Base Powder Coating.

    IMG_5182.thumb.JPG.c87b64ba57ae3023846bf9fbcbfa2520.JPGNote- The original hinge were zinc plated then yellow chromate dipped.  Chromate is a very toxic chemical and hard to

    dispose of.   The exact color will be impossible to duplicate with powder coating because it does not allow mixing of powders.

     

    However, powder coating of the headlight retaining rings closely resembles chrome plating.

    IMG_5208.thumb.JPG.8eee2128ec541eca3ba85756db0f1a1d.JPG

     

    Now. I have to wait till the TOP COAT Powders to arrive from the Mainland so I can try to match the Chromate process.   Wish me Luck!

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