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toolman

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Posts posted by toolman

  1. beton,   Looking at the pics that you posted,  Maybe this damage properly occurred  previously and was then repaired.   Most common repair on this type of rack and pinion is worn out INNER TIE ROD ENDS.   The RACK travels in a very straight line if not. you will definitely have a "Bind" when turning the steering wheel.  In this case, the Rack would be replaced.   The cause could be from hitting a rock damaging Rack or Bad Accident.    I am including copies of Factory Service Manual -Serving the Steering Rack pages.

    IMG_4151.JPG.fb332f89bb6763f3596116b2814257a0.JPG

     

     

     

    IMG_4148.JPG.11b3e48deed323dbb2ec00c32dbebec3.JPG

     

    Does this help?

                                                                       Toolman

  2. MutantZ,

            Here is a pic comparing  Factory Steering Column  vs Silvermine Power Steering  Column.

           Note-the Collapsable Section on the Factory Column

     

     IMG_3884.JPG.32d4bbc89d6fbe95e596813db1f8c089.JPG

     

    Here is pic of the Factory Column with Internal Parts Exposed.

    IMG_4138.JPG.a3b7a48269ccdaee5754cb325d50c03b.JPG

     

    Does these pics give the information that you need?

                                                                              Toolman

  3. Constructing FUSE / RELAY AND JUNCTION BATTERY PANEL

      

        Because of limited engine compartment space, I decided to build a Fuse/ Relay and Battery Junction Panel in the

    Passenger Side of the Transmission Tunnel.    

       The Panel was made from 1/4" Black Sheet Plastic.   The Dimensions were about  7" x  10 1/2".   The  Legs were made to provide 1" space underneath to run wiring .  The Plastic was bent by using a straight edge and 1000 Watt Heat Gun.

    IMG_4025.JPG.dbe73cfd9826e3d03bd9a38e6a4991ce.JPG

     

    The  Basic Layout Plan for the Panel.   This Diagram show wiring for Speedometer Convertor and Electric Power Steering.

    1970425083_IMG_4028(1).JPG.9290b46604557d43cbae0ec7473c61a8.JPG

     

    I use  Four 80/ 60 Amp Relays as the relays will be powering more than one circuit at a time.

     IMG_4123.JPG.5495962b89a177ccfa9fb5efca28ea4a.JPG  

     

    This 4 Pin 80/60 Amp 12vt DC Waterproof Relay comes with 12 AWG insulated wires.

    Costs $38 for Four Relays from Amazon

      IMG_4122.JPG.a62a17404d0853f337f8f55620b33226.JPG

     

    This pic show a 40 amp In Line Fuse Waterproof Housing with 10 Gauge wire.   This In Line Fuse will used as the Terminal Fuse Block was rated at only 30 amps.   This  Fuse was utilized for the Electric Power Steering Motor.

     

    IMG_4117.JPG.caa4a3fbd2025258243d61dd60230b70.JPG

     

    This Dual Rows Block Terminal Strip from Amazon costs $8 for two.

    IMG_4118.JPG.8c85359dbe0bf5e81a4223807d6310a7.JPG

     

    This 6 Way Fuse with 5 Fused Circuits with seperayte Postive anf Negative Bus Bars costs

    $17 from Amazon.

    IMG_4120.JPG.d907bbd37fe87f56da58d64e2e557478.JPG

     

    The top 12gauge Red Wire has a inline waterproof 40 AMP Fuse.   This Fuse protects the 

    Electric Power Steering Motor.    I could not use the Fuse Block as it was rated at only 30AMPs.

     

    IMG_4051.JPG.22d8797527b85c479709c2a50787cb6f.JPG

     The White Relay wires trigger powers the Blue12vt wires that connected to the Positive  Bus Bar.

    Then the 12volts exit the Relay through the Red Wires.  Then the 12vt crosses the conection to 

    the Output wires.   The Vertical Fuses protected each circuit.   The Black wires on the Right Side

    connect to Negative bus bar(Ground).   The Top 1/4" threaded stud connects to Battery Positive

    terminal.   The Lower 1/4" threaded stud connects to a Negative Ground strap.

     

    The Panel with the wires all connected.   Note- Wires when possible are run under the panel to

    provide a clean appearance.   Majority of the Output Wires were required Key On Operation.   Some 

    Devices like the Holley Terminator Computer,  Silver Mine Power Steering required straight Battery

    Power but still ran thru a Fused circuit.

    kIMG_4077.JPG.1a16262ef16b71349a2fe35c49732316.JPG

     

    The Relay Panel was mounted to Transmission Tunnel with battery cables attached.

    IMG_E4127.JPG.dcf00e8e4c1a0b46069fd87c3cdc3129.JPG

     

    A Marine 12vt Battery Cable holds cables from the  Relay Panel,Alternator and Starter Motor.

    IMG_4125.JPG.f72e947a3cfa89ab3e73e2cbdd674d85.JPG

     

    The Negative Cable attaches with a Post Master Quik Disconnect Switch.   It can be disconnected with just a twist of the Black Knob.   Costs $14 from Amazon

    IMG_4124.JPG.7b7d37d34b5dd742b6066a473a520988.JPG

     

    More Wiring to come.

     

     

  4. mutantZ,  

     

            i used my 6 foot Borescope that I bought from Amazon for about $30 to check out those Air Inlet Tubes.

                 IMG_3643.JPG.f7c4d3c987157490ce8e79ffe0c00394.JPG

                 

               Here is a pic from the Borescope -from the Right Side  Kick Panel Hole looking forward to the Core Support.

                IMG_3639.JPG.f0424da4bc62ab0e9718ce725c8b0bb5.JPG

     

                I live in East Oahu near Hananuma Bay.

  5. mutantZ,  Have you considered putting your engine compartment wiring into the Left and Right Air Interior Ventilation Tubes?   The tubes run all the way from the Core Support to the Interior Compartment (above the Kick Panels).   The tubes are smaller at the front but large past the Strut Towers.   I ran my borescope through the tubes to check them out.   They were pretty clear.   Also, you could put wiring in the Cowl Section( windsheild wiper area) for wiring that needs to go from side to side.   With this

    method you could practically "hide" all of your wiring .   I hope this helps you.

                                                                                                                                            Toolman

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  6. 240Z Power Steering Installation-

     

          As I planned to have wide wheels and tires, power steering is almost a necessity in tight driving areas.   There are  BMW 318 hydraulic racks have successively installed in 240Zs.  These racks are difficult to find and require different outer tie rod ends.   Also, mounts for 

    the conversion racks must be modified.  There are two Electric Power Steering kits available for 240zs-Z Power Steering and Silvermine Motorsports.   Z Power Steering requires you to send them your steering column to modify.  Cost about $800 + Freight.   Silvermine Motorsports Powering Steering is ready to install but costs $1250 + Freight.   Considering 

    all the factors. I chose the Silvermine Power Steering Unit.

    IMG_3884.JPG.ee76d2ce6ac2cb152f295fcf3c55b8c8.JPG Silvermine Unit on the Left and Factory on the Right

    IMG_3878.JPG.77beda2e9a02baee5dae30a7b068ae76.JPGWiring for the Steering Unit

     

    IMG_3878.JPG.77beda2e9a02baee5dae30a7b068ae76.JPG

     

    IMG_3879.JPG.6856b236704497b9780352662a746231.JPG

     Plug in Connectors for Control Box

     

    Installation of the Steering Column takes normally  about 2 to 3 hours.   I decided to modify the  Brake/ Clutch PedalMounting Bracket to allow the Motor to move a total of 180 degrees for additional leg clearance.   Also, Offsetting the Steering Column Firewall Mount created additional e steering shaft to motor clearance.

     

    Made a Template for modifying the Steering Shaft Mount on the Firewall.

    510835454_IMG_3931(1).JPG.327a5acdd0fc5bd8a772a95b4e089426.JPG

     

    IMG_3941.JPG.e70668d748305a666fb52da9afc8661a.JPG

     

    Note- The Hole for the Steering Shaft Mount Plate is not round.  It is actually an "Oval" similar shape.   When a Round Tube passes through a Flat Plane at an Angle, it creates an Oval Hole.

    If you just drill a Round Hole, there would be large gaps around the edges that would need to be filled in.

      

    New Steering Column Mount alongside of Silvermine Mount.IMG_3883.JPG.c035919cd1557935d7001715b48903de.JPG

     

     This Modification shifts the Steering Shaft to the Left  !/4" for extra Steering Shaft Clearance.

    Modified Mount shown next to Silvermine Mount.

     

    Fabricating Mount Sleeve out of 1 1/2" tubing.

     

    IMG_3891.JPG.c5c298006352c48ac8c860330b2f1dcd.JPG

     

    Bending 3/16" steel strip to make the Steering Column Clamp.

    IMG_3895.JPG.0ebb7a7d6bf6960b9b683df2057ff714.JPG

     

    IMG_3949.JPG.b80ef2c76a10e50ef99252a707425685.JPG

    Finished with Gloss Black Powder Coating

     

    Steering Shaft Adaptor

    IMG_3880.JPG.a1c43420bcb00f0ffb19ef26f79c0f9c.JPG 

     

    Shaft Adaptor Modified by rounding off its edges eliminating stress points.

     IMG_3886.JPG.4810ad608da3accbe33b7aa1262824ea.JPG

     

    The Pedal Mounting Bracket was notched on the Right Side to allow the motor to swing up

    to provide more leg clearance.

    IMG_E3917.JPG.74e49f51aec983ced1c67280867433a7.JPG

     

    The Notch was reinforced by adding 1/8" steel plate around it.  Also,an additional lip was added to give the area more strength.

    933432613_IMG_3912(1).JPG.c1a815afc8a3d8173c6f440fd19a06ff.JPG

    .View of the Modified Pedal Mounting Bracket with Steering Column on it.

    IMG_E3914.JPG.e798ec1f71d2ce49fa163893b2ecf313.JPG

     

    Interior View of Mounted Steering Column -Note its offset position

    IMG_E3955.JPG.6b68d28d1d5c5d1dd486afa8a501e985.JPG

     

    I ended up leaving the Power Steering Motor in the Right Side of the Column.  This position would

    provide the most clearance for both my leg( left and right) movements.

     

    Engine Compartment view of Steering Shaft Clearance to Motor.

    1770810589_IMG_3959(1).JPG.dbc053df350cae83ffe482a586bf54dc.JPG

     

     Had about 3/8 to 1/2" Clearance .

     

    Silvermine Power Steering Control Box was mounted to Driver Side Kick Panel.

    1599408200_IMG_3956(1).JPG.7fec26277a49f691b433bb8891a4edad.JPG

     

     

    Detailed Measurements-

     

     With the Motor on Right Side of the Column, Distance between motor and floor is 14 1/4"

    ,IMG_4044.JPG.0deba50fde8e973d15199e99e74996fa.JPG

     

    With the Motor on Left Side of the Column, Distance between Motor and Floor is 14 1/2"

    IMG_4047.JPG.f1bcf9acee22d49eef96f5d0d9e52686.JPG

     

     

    Distance between exhaust manifold and steering shaft is 1/2".

    IMG_4032.JPG.21e524de2c844d85d23c7d4ee0e709a6.JPG

     

     

    Distance between Firewall and Bolt in Steering Shaft Adaptor is 6".

    IMG_4033.JPG.1253d9bbf35d4275bc010280b4e43d23.JPG

     

     

    Splined End  of the Shaft Adaptor

    IMG_3870.JPG.7a2d145e2305e1bb9c2bdf8e442d0abc.JPG

     

     

    Side View of Shaft Adaptor

    IMG_3867.JPG.70ed8017d592d4a054a53b88d999f2b6.JPG

     

     

     

     

    Next-Building Fuse and Relay Panel

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  7. Speedometer Modifications-

        

         There are Three Options to get a working Speedometer with LS Swap 240Z.   First ,  Keep the Original Z speedometer and convert  your T56 trans to Manual Speedometer.  This option requires sending the trans rear extension housing to be machined to handle "old type" plastic speedometer gearing.  There is a place in Washinton State that does this work for about $400 and you have to ship it to them.  Second option is to replacinging the original Z Speedometer Unit with a new GPS Speedometer.   This method may require modifying the dashboard to install because of size differences.  Also, GPS would not function in tunnels.  Cost about $300. The Third option is utilizing an Electronic Speedometer to Manual Speedometer Conversion Kit.   These kits convert the  VSS ( Vehicle Speed Sensor) signal to an electronic motor in a control box.  A cable from this box drives a cable to Z Speedometer.   Advantages of these kits are One Day Installation Time and Easy Recalibration when changing tire sizes and rear differential gearing.  Cost about $329.    I chose the Dakota Digital ECD-200BT-1.   This model has a GM (old style) threaded collar speedometer cable.

     

     IMG_4001.JPG.acd843cb86084370d934a87eeee08381.JPG   Note-Different cable versions

     

    IMG_4002.JPG.4b86e1b558fa2fbf61d3dc393c1f6b5c.JPG

     

      Although the GM Threaded Cable is very similar to the Datsun Z cable, it does not screw on but it is very close,though).

    So you must perform a little fab work to make it fit.   First, I measure the cable measurements of the 240z cable.

     

    IMG_3857.JPG.d50e2edccab92b3dac4d4b3c3e2f712a.JPG

     

    The Most important measurement is the speedometer stick out from the housing.   Now, you cut the 240z threaded sleeve off with a Dremel with Cutoff Saw Blade.

    IMG_3847.JPG.52cb2f47656766ff071543b359e96bab.JPG 

     

    I used a piece of 1/4" thin tubing (about 2" off of a Acid Brush Handle)  and Silver Soldered to

    240z cable cup section.   Silver Solder melts at 300 degrees but provides a very strong weld.

    This modified section was then slipped over the Dakota Digital  cable after removing its  section

    with the Dermel too.   Then the modified section attached to the Dakota Cable with JB Weld.  Set the cable stick out to the previous  measurement.   Remember to allow the JB weld to cure 24 hours before using.

    IMG_3856.JPG.3a43c4d9ef5ded27c923c9226fb4c7fa.JPG

     

    240z Cable Threaded Sleeve installed on Dakota Digital cable with minor surgery.

     

    The Dakota Digital cable was tested with a Cordless Drill running in Reverse Direction.

    IMG_3851.JPG.d902335e450dab1965e1d56723b9b215.JPG

     

    Note-Speedometer Needle moving at speed.

     

    The Cable Drive Unit was attached to under the Glove Compartment.

    IMG_3859.JPG.51a1071237d117bf2963c3a8c9f6d6fe.JPG

     

     

     

    Pic of Dakota Digital Speedometer Cable hooked up to Z Speedometer.

    IMG_3860.JPG

     

     

    The following pics are more information on Dakota Digital Speedometer Conversion Kit.

    IMG_4003.JPG.3ee02d3a411331ac9d51b5e5144509c1.JPG

     

    IMG_4004.JPG.527aea72db0e7fc38b90b2df6b65b617.JPG

     

    IMG_4005.JPG.a784802153dcd33f32ae7c7e90a6e939.JPG

     

    IMG_4006.JPG.422dce902a7124ec5653baa35820909e.JPG

     

    IMG_4007.JPG.595b009acda187d1dfe0e6666db20fd9.JPG

     

     

    IMG_4008.JPG.63fc9022a042ac015cc15183cb6fafeb.JPG

     

    IMG_4009.JPG.e066c898221a0f3b267dcebeb7bd5187.JPG

     

    IMG_4010.JPG.3ec5eeadf123334f413a2cb3d7fca0bd.JPG

     

     

     

     

    Next 240Z Power Steering Installation

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  8.   Sorry for the delay in posting, my PC broke down over the week end and tried to fix it.   But ended up getting a new one at Costco.

     

    Wiring Harness Mounts-

       Since there were so many different sizes harness mounts necessary, I decided to construct my own.   I used 22 gauge 

    steel metal with 3/4" to 1" strips.

    IMG_3697.JPG.144b724bf31c0d45dc2a0abd9ce52871.JPG

     Plastic Dip which a Black Plastic Protective Cover used to create no-slip handle covers for hand tools.   Procedure 

    is slowly dip the items into the can to add the coatings on.   It works better by dipping multiple times instead trying

    to make one heavy coating.   I dipped the mounts in about three to four times( allow 30 minutes drying time between

    coats) to get thick but smooth coatings.

    IMG_3701.JPG.38b252f4e3e08f8e92051baef75b492c.JPG

     

    Let it dry completely dry  for 24 hours before using.

     

    I used Metric Nut Inserts to hold the harness mounts and found that some locations were too tight to use the normal

    Thread Insert Rivet Pliers.   So I constructed a simple tool to do this job in "Real Tight Places.   Used !/8" x 3/4" x 8"

    mild steel plate with 1/4" hole drilled in one end.

      IMG_3704.JPG.77c2af61910d6a07a10922f3b66e806e.JPG

     

    Just inset a 4MM insert insert in the hole and place the right size bolt on the 4MM insert.  

    Then, just tighten the bolt and it will squeeze the nutsert tight.

    IMG_3705.JPG.7f1a184d9f6f450020ab43af14727e2a.JPG

     

    In REAL TIGHT PLACES, you can use a Hand Wrench instead of a ratchet and socket.  It takes longer but it will work too.

     

    Wiring Harness Looms

     

    Previously I used Flexible Plastic Split Opening Wiring Looms but found out these looms would hold water and debris

    in them.    So now, First, Premium Scotch Brand Black Electric Tape was wrapped tightly over the wire harness.  Then

    Alex Tech Split Sleeve Wiring Looms were installed over that.   This braided covering is very tear resistant but allow water to drain out.

     

    IMG_3971.JPG.0a792d8acbc8912f19bdc3e11ea3636d.JPG

     

    ALEX TECH SPLIT SLEEVING is sold on Amazon with  !/4", 1/2",3/4" and 1" tubing sizes.

    Note-After cutting the ends off, it is recommended that a mini torch be used to burn the 

    ends slightly to prevent ends from coming apart.   The ends can be taped with electrical tape or

    use Heat Shrink tubing to hold the ends down.   I noticed that even factory wiring comes with this type of looms.

     

    Holley Terminator Computer Installation

    IMG_3822.JPG.1d3e71d80d7001083e81375db6ab8e8a.JPG

    The Holley Terminator Computer was installed on the Passenger Side Kick Panel with fabricated mount.  

    Note-Wiring harness Mounting Clamp holding the harness it the firewall.

     

    A 1/8" Aluminum Protective Plate was added to bottom area of the computer to prevent damage

    to the wiring.

    IMG_3779.JPG.2cba8786d93df3ce69f32e6ed9199043.JPG

     

    The Computer Maintenance LED Lights are located on the top of the computer so are still visible in this location.   The computer mount was built with 1" clearance for the wiring to allow wiring to go underneath.

     

    The Holley 3 1/2" LED Touch Screen Display was stored in the Glove Compartment.  It will be used to tune the computer.

    IMG_3818.JPG.186c463e019d5e3fa5832d77ee484843.JPG

     

     

     Holley Universal Oil Pressure Transducer 

         The Factory LS3 Oil Pressure Sender will not function with the Holley Computer so  the

    Holley Oil Pressure Transducer must be utilized.   Cost $140 from Amazon.

    IMG_3817.JPG.791de90fc7f2f20283242e2c92224dbf.JPG

     

    Holley Included the Oxygen Sensor Bung that must be welded in the Front Exhaust pipe after the

    exhaust manifold.

    UGOV0939.JPG.a00d3c42083e0e8974fe3fb54bb548d5.JPG

     

     

    Horn installation-

     

    A pair of Hella Toyota Horns ( Amazon $30) 

     

    IMG_3829.JPG.723e4add703b868549a058e1e38a9512.JPG

     

    IMG_3830.JPG.c86d147ca4f065cf12caee982bc25140.JPG

    Horns were mounted using existing radiator lower mounting bolts,

    IMG_3963.JPG.cf352915f3e769e3734f9409fa348e74.JPG

     

    Right side Horn

    IMG_3964.JPG.2419f8ce38ac56e1a4fda2c4f22eea50.JPG

     

    Left side Horn

     

     

     

    Next-T56 Transmission Electronic Speed Sensor to 240z Manual Speedometer Conversion Kit

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  9. I tried for a couple of days to reset my password.    It said that confirmation would be

    sent to my email address but I still have not received any emails from this site.  I checked

    even junk mail box ,too.

                                             Thanks,  Toolman

  10. 5 Star Rising,   I hate to be the bearer of "Bad News" but  if your measurements are correct, a proper repair is beyond most home mechanics.  I am a ASE Certified

    Automotive Body and Paint Repairman.   Your damage is to great to just slot brackets and achieve proper alignment.    I would say your best best is get a repair estimate

    from a Body Shop in your area.   But fixing the car and not damaging the paint job might not not be possible.  I hope this advise helps.

  11. Battery Box Modifications-

         This is the Delco Replacement Battery for a 2019 Chevrolet Corvette 6.0L LS3.

    It is a GelCell Battery rated at 900CCA but weighs 49 pounds.   Because of its weight and size, I decided to beef up the original Battery Tray.

    IMG_E3834.JPG.99ec1263e2d8ae71e04dd8d47f339519.JPG

     

    Making a Paper Template of New Battery Tray

    IMG_E3523.JPG.4012a2153c3bec2af7ee06334bdf2a1a.JPG

     

    I decided to construct the Battery Box out of 16 gauge Stainless Steel.

    Used Right Angle Grinder with cutoff wheel to cut the Stainless Steel.

    IMG_3507.JPG.3fa5706221a8e60784439a66e05d09a8.JPG

     

     

    Filing down the sharp edges from cutting.

    IMG_3508.JPG.35314b5f1ff01c84157b0e5428e7d5f3.JPG

    After Bending the Stainless Steel and tack welding the two

    front corners, the Battery Box looked like this.

    IMG_E3516.JPG.9ca1db353ae5e77d428a31535d70b5f7.JPG

    Front View

     

    IMG_E3515.JPG.3974995d9bb98942603d11d519d53641.JPG

    Added two Holes on side for Improved Appearance.

     

    Made a Paper Template to locate the Mounting Holes for the

    Battery Box.

    IMG_3524.JPG.4d21f9c1f64e2784e566bccca5c6b5be.JPG

    Template taped the Bottom of the Battery Box to locate holes to be drilled.

     

      Three 6mm bolt and nuts installed in Firewall to support the Box.

    IMG_E3841.JPG.8545bb7c7d29d3d2f22a71b8ed50bfd8.JPG

     

     A 1/8" steel bar was installed in the window cowl to reinforce the three bolts in the firewall.

    IMG_3749.JPG.b61c9d1894b81c0f3194595312ce17d8.JPG

      

    Four 5/16" Carriage Bolts and nuts secured the Box to existing

    Battery Tray.  The Box was polished with Buffing wheel.

    IMG_E3844.JPG.e0ed27f4a53812120a5137e29094e10c.JPG

     

    Battery Box Version-1

    IMG_E3750.JPG.d464ccb4a8e0d50ab7dc6ba0c3a35455.JPG

    Front View

     

    IMG_E3751.JPG.ef50a72ab1127a8622ceb46b72e8d136.JPG

    Battery Box with Stainless Steel Hold Down Bolts.

     

    Unfortunately, when I tried to put the Delco Battery into the 

    New Battery Box, it would not go in.  The Left Side Box Wall prevented the Battery from sliding in.  So that Wall had to be 

    removed.

     

    Modified Battery Box Version-2

    IMG_E3838.JPG.acfeecdd1e6e1cc5708a7856dd6f5ab4.JPG

    With a 1/4" Rubber Mat on bottom to absorb vibration.

     

    Another Angle view of the Battery Box.

    IMG_E3839.JPG.64095be2daf0dce6dd58f9df65c9f259.JPG

     

    This Second Version shows no matter how careful you plan

    something, it can go wrong.   So You must be able to adapt

    and continue.

     

    Next-More Wiring to do

     

     

     

  12. Change  of Plans-

     

         I must have been a "Good Boy" because my Ungraded Holley Terminator X Max arrived on Christmas Eve.

       Brand New Holley Terminator X Max# 555550-910 was designed for Late Model LS3 motor with 58 CAM, EV6 Injectors, Drive by Wire Throttle Body and a Remote 3.5 Touch Screen Turner was $1540 from Amazon.

    IMG_3762.JPG.9d83797d6de2614a3a69c4dd48f6813b.JPG

     

    IMG_3410.JPG.6923be4a183be1331276c4bb9bb74a9a.JPG

     

    IMG_3412.JPG.5f83c8b940ea9b81cdc9e669b30df437.JPG

     

       I started by laying the Holley harness over the motor and attaching the sensors.   Everything pretty much lined up but there were wires which were a little

    short.  But no big deal.  A little shifting of harness around and  removing the tape on the looms to gain an inch or so. Then,retaping the hareness.   With the harness laid out,  I could tell the major problem would be getting the harness through the firewall to connect to the computer.

        The area between the Battery Tray and Firewall was the only place where everything would fit.  Local Reconstruction Law did not allow relocating the battery into the rear of the car.   Although that location would make harness routing much easier with no battery in the way.   Plus, Weight Distribution would be better too.

    IMG_3598.JPG.31ff91d1bc7d794d0f6f0211ab28f37f.JPG

    This was a small Area for alot of wiring to pass through.   The holes under the battery tray was for the AC Hoses to pass thu.

       I found this Split-Seal Grommets that was big enough but stll provide good sealing qualities.   But they costed $35 each from Amazon.

    seal IMG_3711.JPG.1454c88a6f3ecdb0b6ae46c920b59edf.JPG

            Note- The Split-Seal has extra sealing lip at the joint.  It provides a little more joint sealing.

            I also made an additional sheet metal ring to reinforce the seal from the interior

    side of the seal.   The Split Seal and Reinforcing Ring was bolted together with six 4MM bolts and nuts.

    IMG_3690.JPG.1c8905bfba684444cb78fc1db68fc131.JPG

     

    Cleco Pins were utilized to position the seal while installing.

    IMG_3655.JPG.606a1e4c156da545e967154ba14b8bae.JPG

     

    Engine Compartment View-Seal installed with harness going through the Firewall.

    fIMG_3755.JPG.1b0fcb0663322f728057ad38d92988ed.JPG

     

    Interior View of Split Seal installed.

    IMG_3693.JPG.7ee3324ff9de1b80c6274f07ef4dc853.JPG

     

    Aluminum Templates with various hole sizes were used to determine correct hole to be drilled in the Firewall.  The biggest objects on the harness were the various relays so the hole had to be at least this diameter so the harness could fit thu.

    IMG_3647.JPG.8850cdcdccc7538b5c4054808d905e09.JPG

           

    In case you need a custom Grommet , this is the procedure to construct one.

    IMG_3653.JPG.c9f7fa70dcbd8fbab9455d50c1996e22.JPG

     

    Cut out 23 gauge sheet metal to create the Outer Frame.  Use a razor or knife to make the  Round Seal out of 1/8" rubber sheet.

    .IMG_3656.JPG.6736ab33a875660d7065d32e33fdc39e.JPG

    Finish shaping and use Contact Cement to attach Rubber Seal to frame.  Then drill six Mounting Holes and cut seal in half.  If additional sealing is needed, just make an additional rubber seal on the Interior Side of the seal.

    IMG_3657.JPG.07a3ec493f98fe1c783efe892989a30e.JPG

    Note-It is important to make the Center Sealing Hole slightly smaller to provide a tight fit with harness.

     

    For Grommets for other Small Wires, you can use Grommets (from Home Depot).

    Use the ones made specifically for certain size sheet metal hole.   These seals are usually made of for use in sheel metal holes but check to be sure.

    IMG_3731.JPG.29945b4fbd4bee3f17356ff27af21f08.JPG

    If you want  a tight fit for individual wires, drill slightly larger holes than wire diameter and push wires thu individual holes instead of just slitting the grommets.  This method provides tighter sealing fit.

    IMG_3733.JPG.6c36d6d759e9866d02adc3f586fb075b.JPG

     

    Next-Battery Box

     

  13.    I was planning to post about installing the Holley Terminator X Engine Control Kit but at the

    last moment I decided to go to a upgraded version of the Holley Kit.   So that may take a couple of weeks to arrive because of the Pandemic and Christmas.  but there are still plenty work to do.

      

    Drive By Wire Accelerator Pedal Installation-

        Holley recommends  using  AC Delco # 10379038 Pedal  Assembly( Amazon-$88.   However, you have to fabricate your own mount.   Normally, accelerator pedal were easy to fab as they were usually constructed of 3/8"-7/16" steel rod.   One could just heat the rod red hot and bend it as necessary.  However, Electronic Throttle Pedals are constructed of 16 gauge metal and plastic pedal arms.   Thus, fabrication of the pedal mount is a lot more difficult.   Also, the location

    of the pedal is in a confined area next to the trans tunnel.

    IMG_3569.JPG.d89df544eef31acc20a819c0d55c1edc.JPG   Originally, the pedal would be attached to this plate on the firewall with three screws.

     

    I made paper templates to create the Pedal Mount.

    1473231247_IMG_3549(1).JPG.a7aa8071550d11c6d746c81a78b84e60.JPG

     

    IMG_3550.JPG.66d1ec66b031a5b42306ec071e4f2fe5.JPG

     

    IMG_3552.JPG.e7de939ac35dd3578203c412308b5eed.JPG

     

    Cutting 1/8" Steel with a  4 1/2" angle grinder with 1/32" cutoff wheels.

    IMG_3563.JPG.38545aee8a7709c05cc651b7b59cd101.JPG

     

    A Trial Fit of Mount.

    IMG_3564.JPG.2d49392797eaa3ba3fa1ebf696dde921.JPG

    Left side view

     

    IMG_3566.JPG.f6daca143f2f20feab6f948a78abc240.JPG

    top view of mount-looking downward

     

    After Trial Fitting, the Mount was mig welded and powder coated Black.

    1246675094_IMG_3575(1).JPG.86ec74376c700192db938841f828250a.JPG Left Side View

     

    1701929944_IMG_3572(1).JPG.4e69c45153c2a68f2f1247183e68a661.JPGRight Side View   Holes were added to lighten the mount and looks good too.

     

     

     

    IMG_3574.JPG.ad08729a1896877d36fcef1964e5a677.JPGTop View

    IMG_3576.JPG.48f925299253750a89229d6a8130bf98.JPGPedal Assembly Mounted

     

     

    Pedal Mount installed on Firewall

    IMG_E3715.JPG.b81552a3f32d6a573f84ef51a155a534.JPG

     

    Mount is attached with four 6mm bolts with 1/2" x 4" 1/8" steel plates on the engine compartment side of the firewall.

    IMG_3716.JPG.faf9f1427b7e86eae8723c5843be6f9d.JPG

     

    Rubber Gaskets were made and placed under those plates to prevent water leakage.

    IMG_3586.JPG.845dcb4c5e0af1a1e807400ceb642eaf.JPG

    A Hole Punch was utilized to punch mounting holes.

     

     

    Next-Battery Box

     

    Happy Holidays to All!!

     

     

  14. Engine Compartment Modifications-

     

         I forgot to post the Alternator that I utilized-NAPA #272-4717 104 AMP  Alternator( cost $130).   I originally tried to install a 140AMP GM one but it was way too large to fit in the bottom

    driver side of the motor.    I think 104 AMP is sufficient unless I install an Electric Power Steering Unit.   The NAPA Alternator has a Lifetime Warranty and 104 AMP is widely available.

     

     1326967199_IMG_3547(1).JPG.f86668ee5fa104dca02a3592257fa1ac.JPG

     

    AIr Intake-

        My Crate LS3  6.2 Liter motor did not come with a Air Intake  Setup so I had to fab

    one.   Spectre Performance had a 4" Stainless Tube ($75), 36" 0fn 4" Flex Tubing($32)and 4" Right Angle Rubber Elbows(($24) for basis of my system.

    IMG_3409.JPG.19171bf25d5a70aee8ca221412d795eb.JPG

     

    I didn't want my Air Inlet to breathe Hot Engine Compartment Air so I fab the system to get Cold Air from just behind the grille.

    IMG_3465.JPG.58112912047f0200e34571698630737d.JPG 

    Had to enlarge the hole in the Core Support to accomplish this.

     

    Also, had to "Tap "  the Wheel Housing to get about 3/4" clearance for the Duct Hose.

    IMG_3466.JPG.98eea8a20d207628efe51fd78ea5d23b.JPG

     

    Used Shears to Trim the Sheet Metal Plate for the Duct Hose.

    IMG_3470.JPG.feb388d1ed0a3279e73f8e862f9cb07a.JPG

     

    Inside view of the Duct Opening

    IMG_3472.JPG.d9f08e544ca40ffc9c8ba4a9feffd7b6.JPG

     

    Using Band Saw to cut 4" Stainless Straight Tube..

    IMG_E3442.JPG.715dee49cbe49406473c89b4cc097f49.JPG

     

    Trial Fitting of the Flexible Duct Tubing.   I created a Steel Metal Duct Plate on the Core Support to hold Duct Hose and Air Filter.IMG_E3471.JPG.a246a70c92d8d4a56a226dbca3c7b281.JPG

     

    Pic of Additional Right Angle Elbow on outside of Core Support to

    mount Air Filter.  I have not decided on which Air Filter to use yet.

    IMG_E3625.JPG.0db4e76c58a247aa39abd2534379bc1d.JPG

     

    Inside view of Air Inlet System

    IMG_E3626.JPG.f6fd3560b82068572f3abf570b94a3ef.JPG

     

    Next-Holley Terminator X System installation

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  15. 12vt Cooling Fans

     

        To go with the Champion Radiator, Two Spal 12vt. Electric Fans and Shroud were installed.   The fans provide 1500 CFM of Air Flow but draw 27 maximum amperage.   The

    Two Individual 30 Amp Relay are triggered by a 185 Degree Thermo Switch in the engine block.

       IMG_3534.JPG.97b85bba76513b7a3aa76096e8fd47f7.JPG

     

    Spal Dual Fans with Shroud-Bottom View

     

    IMG_3539.JPG.0ba557560033346e96cd8ec9569799dd.JPG

     

    Dual 30 AMP Relays triggered a 185 Degree Thermo Swuitch.

    I also added an Emergency Bypass Switch to turn on the Relays

    in case of Switch Failure.  Everything was mounted on the Right Side Wheel Well Housing.

     

    Alternator Mounting and Belt Arrangement-

         Originally ordered, a ICT Billet LS Motor Alternator Bracket from Amazon for $40. Unfortunately because my custom made Motor Mounts were located too far forward and the ICT Alternator Mount would not work.  So I had to fabricate my own alternator bracket.

     IMG_3325.JPG.a4c4ea82a438f5cb257b57a7f714717f.JPG  

    ITC Billet Mount on my LS3 motor.

     

    As usual, I created a Paper Template for the Alternator Mount.

    IMG_3345.JPG.1ed0650a797f1bf913ab9eb999f0a583.JPG

    Punching Alternator Mounting Holes in Template.

     

    Trial Fitting Paper Template

    IMG_3347.JPG.f32e0852d8a9e7e4e0e0e46152323049.JPG

    Note-Alternator hanging in place with Tie Wire for positioning.

     

    Doing Drive Belt Pulley Alignment for Alternator to determine

     

    Spacer Size between  bracket and block.

    IMG_3350.JPG.1aab7dee2e7ddf53bc84a990046e212f.JPG

     

    Using rope to check Drive Belt Arrangement.

    IMG_3366.JPG.6c69d6fe1876f92241e25e98fedf89b9.JPG

     

    Created the Mount out of 1/4 Plate Steel using the Template.

    IMG_3351.JPG.154ae8ba96a583d5859dc3c580984bec.JPG

    Note- Plate is oversized so modifications can easily be made later.

     

    Checking Alternator Space Clearances

    IMG_3396.JPG.9e5e59a08459de19f5600b9d63c486b5.JPG

     

    Back of Alternator

    IMG_3371.JPG.6e7afd3b68b2d572c85279269bca0e7a.JPG

     

    Determining  Lower Mounting Bolt Length

    IMG_3356.JPG.fd4591dd90cfecc4e44950d2944e4ddb.JPG

     

    More Test Fitting

    IMG_3358.JPG.5c51cc26195384add58211579af4df7e.JPG

     

    Added an additional Upper Alternator to provide additional strength.

    IMG_3545.JPG.f937f181042b1ad986dcafcb86b5b702.JPG

    This additional bracket creates a total of Three Solid Alternator

    Mounts.

     

    Finalizing the Fit

    IMG_3391.JPG.476a5cc5399a4700d3361e3f096af926.JPG

    Note-I left the ICT Billet Mount possibly use it to mount to a

    Idler Pulley in case I add Power Steering Pump. later.

     

    Used a 2017 Corvette Tensioner to handle Drive Belt Tension.

    IMG_3395.JPG.b8d63d95ec2d6f679d9a3c536f7b8a34.JPG

     

    The Final Version of the Alternator Mount

    IMG_3391.JPG.b73fbd5eddd1148c91ad5feef3712880.JPG

     

    Top view of Alternator Bracket

    IMG_3400.JPG.3bb9583783e453657cbf92aed5545309.JPG

     

    Rrear View of Alternator

    IMG_3386.JPG.8c2cae2bb161fe8a179ccaedfbcdc4f0.JPG

    A Dress Maker Cloth Tape Measure was wrapped around the pulleys to determine the Drive Belt Outside Dimension.

     

    Ii only took a couple of Drive Belts before I found the correct one.

    IMG_3382.JPG.234fd0ba37015a4c7324de46316fe913.JPG

    This one fit perfectly.

     

    Bell Housing Filler Pieces from AC Delco.

    IMG_3406.JPG.56f324cb7aa19120811ab6d7a570d2fe.JPG

     

     

      Left AC Delco Bell Housing Filler

    IMG_3407.JPG.f8389bfe2d0b11157cc3fd78bc7c0cf4.JPG

     

     

    Next-Engine Compartment Wiring

     

     

     

     

     

  16. 5 Star Rising,

        By your description of different gaps on your Core Support and your Hood Height problems, you might have Twisted Core Support.

    To verify that conclusion, you must make measurements  of your front end.   Place your car on a flat hard surface.   Make your wheels in straight

    ahead direction.   Take measurements in inches or millimeters.   First, always measure from factory bolt holes vertically to the ground .    Start at the 10mm bolt attached to the front inside of the Ringt and Left Headlight housings.   Since this is the furthest bolt that is attached to the

    Front Core Support,  any body damage will show up as significant differances in your Right and Left Ground Height measurements.

    If the damage is not too bad , it still can repaired but probably need a body shop to do the work.  Please use measurements(in inches or

    millimeters)  to describe your problems.  This procedure will aid in determining how to fix your problem.

                                                                                                                            Tool Man

     

  17. 5 Star Rising,

            If your main concern is the hood pushing back after you push it down, your problem is probably with the hood hinges and/or torsion rods.  Note-if you have not removed your grille, you should as it will make easier to work on your hood and hinges

    But First, remove your hood and check for squareness. 

    IMG_3460.JPG.91881927139dea13b7dd7fa5e5c1af2f.JPG

     

    If your Hood is not within specs, the Hood is damaged and probably need to be replaced.

      

    Now, Remove the Hood Hinges and Torsion Bars.   Replace the Hood on the car.   Using shims( anything can be used) and attempt

    the "level" the hood as best as possible.   This method will demonstrate if the hood can be made level with your car.   If this can not be accomplished, the hood or car body is damaged.

       If the hood is level with the body, then the problem is with the hinges and/or torsion rods.   Remove rods from hinges.   Check both hinges and rods for damage and wear.  Open and close hinges-full movement-measure if necessary.   The rods are more difficult to inspect.   Place them close together.   Match the angles the rods on both rods.   Being Spring Steel , the rod angles should very similar but spring tension is hard to measure unless you have a spring scale( like fish weight scale).   If the hinges and/or torsion rods do not pass, replacement is necessary.   If the hinge and rods pass, the next step is Hood Adustment.   Replace Hinges but Rods off, this way you are 

    check the hinges only.  Adjust the hood(with no hood lock).   With hood level and square, mark the hinges so you can replace the rods.  If you can not adjust  the hinges at this point, you may have slot the hinges mounting holes.

     You have to use the step by step method otherwise you never solve the problem.

          If this method does not solve your problem, you might have a damaged front end but that can be checked so keep posting.

                                                                                                                                      Tool Man

         

  18. Bead Roller Modifications-

        After watching the video in my last post, you may have noticed that I made additional modifications to my Bead Roller

    to make using it even easier.   I felt the Control Box was located too far right of the actual working area.   So I  removed the Power Convertor,  Speed Controller and Forward/ Reverse Switch from the Control Box.   They were relocated on the Bead Roller

    in self.    These changes allowed me to control the Bead Roller Motor closer to the actual work area.

    Power Convertor moved to back of the Roller.

    IMG_E3334.JPG.ced44f2e09aa6104a461418ce42c6988.JPG

     

    The Speed Controller Panel was placed closer on the Roller for better visibility and speed knob and forward/reverse switch easier to operate.

    IMG_3337.JPG.49b00ffa7d2720510f670b76baf0cefe.JPG

     

     

     

     

     

    .

     

     

    Overall view of Bead Roller

    IMG_E3417.JPG.8672484ece9162694ca2f918af4ca32b.JPG

     

    Video of Bead Roller including Foot Switch.

     

    https://www.youtube.com/shorts/UQrvfuUnM-s

     

    After these modifications, I also decided to add additional

    rollers so I would be able to do more sheet metal fabrication

    in the future.  Amazon had a set of Bead Rollers for $150 and

    ordered it.

    IMG_3317.JPG.c4cc82d8700526319aba493ab19eec23.JPG

     

     

     

    Set looks like this.

    IMG_3288.JPG.b31efbf9a990620817349967054be201.JPG

     

    Wide Corner Bead Roller

    IMG_3306.JPG.d34fe64b84031f64e87a3c7c1ede789a.JPG

     

    V Bend Roller

     

     

    V Flange 

    IMG_3303.JPG.65e735146e1a690ab326fae1daa633d6.JPG

     

    Offset Rollers

    IMG_3301.JPG.646b54ddb8809bd69c9f9ee24e887892.JPG

     

    Offset Roller Results

    IMG_3302.JPG.a1578f113e2a5bbc51460e6ffc66c6f0.JPG

     

    Narrow Round Bead Rollers

    IMG_3299.JPG.ba988eac1b51ff880fa4b19b8f7d1411.JPG

     

    Narrow Bead Roller Results

    IMG_3300.JPG.f3daf5a6b7074b1edff4a99851c00458.JPG

     

    Having fun playing with the Rollers but I got to get back to

    working on the Z.

     

    Next-Alternator Bracket Fabrication and Drive Belt Arrangement

     

     

     

     

     

     

  19. Motorizing my Bead Roller-

        

      I decided to put a Electric Motor on my Woodward Fabrication Bead Roller after I discovered that manual bead

    rolling requires another person to turn the crank.   It was impossible to turn the crank and guide the sheet metal into

    the bead roller at the same time.

        I will attempt to motorize my bead roller for under $100 so anybodycan afford to build one too.   The biggest expense

    would be the low speed but high torque motor.   Fortunately, I found a old Super Winch which was about 20 years old off of a Honda ATV.    It had a High Torque Low Speed Motor and it was Free.   On You Tube, people have used all sorts

    of stuff to power their bead roller.   Harbor Freight has ATV winches, 1/2 drills, electric pipe rethreaders,etc  All of them could provide thenecessary power.  Harbor Freight ATV winch can be gotten forabout $60-$70 for example.

    IMG_3339.JPG.ca894975a4585ecee0ef90f5760d55e1.JPG

     

       With my Super Winch, it was necessary to cut the cable spool off and shorten the spool about 2 1/2".  Then the

    shaft was reduced to 3/4" to match one half of the Flex Coupling.  The other half of the coupling was

    1" to match the bead roller shaft.   Amazon had a Flex Coupling 3/4 to 1 for $27.   A flat spot was created on the motor shaft for the allen screw to prevent it from spinning.   The winch body had to be shorten to compensate for the shortened shaft.   Sorry i don't have pics because my friend who has a lathe at his house did the machine work there.

     

    Pic of Parts Breakdown of the Winch.

    IMG_3341.JPG.ef2fc10f1deced5877007cdd5e66105a.JPG

     

    Pic of Winch with Shortened Shaft and Body with Flex Joints attached.

    IMG_3289.JPG.ae5ec81550b3500979bb341fbd30f773.JPG

     

     

    Pic of Outer Side of Motor Mounting Plate

    IMG_E3293.JPG.7d21d215476cdaa04ebdb214c680c5de.JPG

    Note- reinforcing  angles to strengthen plate against flexing.

     

        I ordered a 120AC to 12Vt DC 15amp Power Convertor from Amazon for $25.

    IMG_3318.JPG.ba946b2bf27a459d038d5a234e129407.JPG

     

    IMG_3158.JPG.82f3660f789c0f3ef1ac2f5ea96f82ae.JPG

     

     

    Closeup of Terminal Connections-AC in and DC voltage out.

    IMG_3160.JPG.b3962f51c0f3aaebe8ff7ac79b6f30f4.JPG

     

     

     

     

    if your budget is tight, you can skip the Power Convertor and just use a Car Battery instead.

     

    A Variable Speed Controller,however is a necessity to control your work speed.   Amazon provided the Variable Speed Controller for $24.

    IMG_3159.JPG.ee31ca97ed22cd8163af82e92674168d.JPG

     

    The Controller had a Speed Control Knob, Forward and Reverse Switch and a Digital Display.

    The Display reads out in Percentage (1 to 100%) but looks neat anyway.

      Next was a Housing or a Box to put these electronic components to protect them against the elements.   I found  a right size plastic box to use and did a few mods to mount the

    components.   Used a Hot Knife and Dremel to cut Square Holes for the Display and Power Switch.

    IMG_3182.JPG.a0fc3c2ef245a907ea50feda4bb15a61.JPG

     

    Box finished with Power Supply and Speed Controller Installed.

    IMG_3188.JPG.efe6cfe3525425dce0a9efc60819bc88.JPG

     

    At this time, I decided to add a Momentary Foot Switch in between the House Plug and the 

    Power Supply.   This switch would cut power off before entering a corner or stopping to change direction.  I got it from Surplus Center for $16.  I wired it so the switch could used for other motor devises like drill presses, bench grinders etc.

    Anthing that you might need your two hands to control the work piece.

     

    IMG_3238.JPG.fb462aa902b567e7c5d737b662f8c0ff.JPG

     

    Closeup of inside the Momentary Switch Box

    IMG_3239.JPG.092b5c541b41a80a34b18bfe5c572e0d.JPG

    This unit was Industrially quality and made of cast steel not

    molded plastic.

     

     

    Beads Roller Test Run-   https://youtu.be/-nWKkfpzleI

     

     

     

    Next-More Bead Roller Modifications

     

        

        

     

     

     

    IMG_E3292.JPG

  20. Exposed,  I have several Woodward Fabrication Tools-Manual Tubing Bender, Tubing Notcher,

    Shrinker/Stretcher, Hand Shear, Dimple Die set and assorted small tools.   Their tools have better

    quality than Harbor Freight and are good for home craftsman.

    IMG_E3203.JPG.92e88999be249b2c0e259a84d4255118.JPG

     

    Practiced on some Aluminum with the Dimple Die Set.   I hope to use the set on  my Z maybe

    in the engine compartment or interior.   

                                                                            Toolman

  21. 5 star raising,

        The best way to solve your problem is to post pics of your hood -pics of hood rear gap, left and right hood side gap, hood front edge

    compared to both L and R headlight covers and hood height (frnt ,sides and back).   Leave the hood catch off till you fix hood alignment 

    first.   Always do one correction at a time then analysis the results.   Take the pics, it will make it easier to solve your problem.

                                                                                                                                                           Toolman

  22.   The Global Supply problems delayed delivery of my parts for modifying of my Bead Roller so I will go to LEATHER SEAT

    COVER REPLACEMENT-

       I ordered Two Leather Seat Covers from Interior Innovations for my car.   Cost was about $700 including freight.

    Be aware- Once you ordered from this company and received your Order Confirmation, do not expect to hear from them

    until you received your seat covers.   I tried to contact them by email and phone-no replies and no tracking number.  But

    I received the covers after about one months time.  On the upside, the Leather Seat Covers looked Good and Well Made

    but their Customer Service Suck!

       When I left off, the seats were without seat covers, the webbing was repaired and frame/seat back painted.

    IMG_2579.JPG.b3b3f29e12cc46bd04057536586ae409.JPG     IMG_2580.JPG.7a60f1895f2e7fe281b13668c176d732.JPG

    a  Hog Ring Pliers and some Hog Rings Clips.

    IMG_3216.JPG.df26ac3542c5cbb17f366a5b55312d07.JPG

     

    Before starting, you have to decide if you want to save the original Steel Wire located in the Rolled over Edges of

    both seat and back covers.   I feel that the Steel Wire provides additional strength when stretching the seat covers on.

    The Replacement Covers have a small nylon rope instead.

    IMG_3219.JPG.36199ae68e3bef4b9dde1e0d3ef374f3.JPG     

     

    Using a razor to remove to remove wire from covers.

     

    Wire out of cover

    IMG_3221.JPG.eee34bacb6bed62b682abf425e16898d.JPG

     

    927546088_IMG_3224(1).JPG.8be49e2b83918485652c266272183a4a.JPG Tying Nylon String to the Steel Wire

     

    Initially you push the wire inward as you pull on the string with the other hand.

     IMG_3225.JPG.dd4eb5322b69736834db6aa70f5d81b6.JPG

     

    If you encounter difficulty in pulling the wire through,  attached the nylon string to a stationery object(like a vise) and

    slowly pull the wire through while keeping the seam straight as possible to prevents kinks.

    IMG_3236.JPG.dfeacfe081d2d9418208fca821c57001.JPG

     

    With the seat cover and foam facing the ground,  insert 3 Nylon Ties into the Seat Flap.

    IMG_3227.JPG.adb60ec03f8fe61542d06e8e41eb2d35.JPG Tape both ends together temporarily.   make the Ties wrap around the Steel Wire in the Flap.

     

    Place Foam Cushion over the cover.   Then "Fish Out" the Ties out.

    IMG_3228.JPG.8b99b726bec9c4d4cc4b0215f1fb70eb.JPG  As you found out, fishing the ties out was much easier because they were taped together. 

    Place the Lower Seat Frame on the Cushion.  Remove tape and tighten the Ties until the Flap contacts the Steel Wire.

    Use the Hog Ring Plier inside the cushion opening to install 3 Hog Rings to hold both the Flap Wire and Frame Steel Wire.   Ties can cut off at this point.

    IMG_E3230.JPG.a8f6fde17b18b8259a8bc85a5779b127.JPG

     

    If necessary, additional foam can be added the top of the Bottom cushion.

    IMG_3240.JPG.17c5c1d3869cc94d13bcfb33c03d5445.JPG

     

    Place the Lower Seat Cover over the Cushion Foam.  Work the foam under the cover be make fit properly.

     

    With a Cushion facing downward, the cover now needs to stretched over the seat frame.   You start at the Center

    of the Front of the Bottom seat first then work equally down both sides to the Back.   Cut a small slit in the Doubled

    UP Edge of the cover.   Stretch the over the Pointed Tabs (making sure the tabs are grabbing the steel wire).   A Wide

    Nose pliers or Vise Grip will make stretching easier.  Do not bend the tabs  completely over yet.

    IMG_3242.JPG.161f4a2312aa38de4a5e9586e489c01a.JPG

     

     

    If you having difficulty stretching the cover over the pointed tabs, a small screwdriver can be used as a pry bar to stretch the cover over the  pointed tabs to secure it.  Continue installing until you get to the bottom.   Then, you pull up the Back Flap and fasten it down.   Check the Top Side for any Low or High Spots.   You may have to stick your hand under the seat cover and move the foam around.  If you have vinyl Seat Covers, a Hot Air Gun might help removing wrinkles..

    IMG_3267.JPG.6613eb8d0c20ddbd07905729032fc97c.JPG

     

    When the Seat Cover seems tight enough, you can now tap down all of the Pointed Tabs  to add the Final Tightness.

     

    Seat Back Cover_

         The same installation procedure is used on the Seat Back Cover.   Replace the Steel Wire in the Top Flap and around the 

    Bottom of the cover before you start.   To Start, Turn the Back Cover "inside out" until the Top Flap is exposed.

    The top of the cover should resemble a cone shape.

    IMG_3250.JPG.ffa1981ebf17ffdbcd47ef584faf3e24.JPG

     

    Install 3 Plastic Ties in the Top Flap of the cover.   Place the cone portion of the cover cover over the top of

    the seat back.   Slowly push and pull the cover down the seat.  Add foam before sliding the cover that area.

    Stretch the cover over the Pointed Tabs till the right tightness is obtained.  After the Front Side of the cover

    is good then pull and stretch the Back side of the cover down.  After it is tight, then you can tap down the Pointed Tabs on the Bottom

    and call it Good.

       When installing the Seat Brackets, make sure to replace the Cleat Plastic Seat Cover Protectors.   They will protect

    the covers from unnecessary wear.   I replaced some them with copies made from  1/8" Rubber Sheets..

        

        The pics of my Finished Leather Seats-

    IMG_E3275.JPG.e9535781ac87bcac9757225fcc0a859c.JPG

     

    IMG_E3272.JPG.ef7f8b620b6d5586bb0a9823c18035fb.JPG

     

    I hope this post was not too long but tried to give helpful information.

     

     

    Next- Bead Roller Motorized Modifications

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  23. Cooling System-

       A lot of time was spent looking a radiator for my LS 240z.  The biggest problem was the 28" space between the Front

    Core Support.   Most available LS radiators were about 30" wide.   But I found 67-69  V8 Camaro had narrow width of

    27".   So I called Champion Radiator for Pricing and Availablity.   He said because of the Pandemic affecting the supply

    channels, none was available and would not be for couple of months.   But fortunately, he asked me what kind of  radiator that I was looking for.   I told him 71 Datsun 240Z with LS swap.   Then he said they have Datsun Z radiator 

    for Chevy V8 swaps in stock.   The Radiator have 3 cores and can handle 500 HP.   Its dimensions are 27.25" with brackets and 

    core was 2.75 thick, 1.5" drivers side inlet and 1.5" passenger side outlet.   The Radiator cost with two 11" Spal electric

    fans and shroud was $389.  Shipping by US POSTALwas $130.  Totaling out at $519.

       IMG_3073.JPG.a133090a1af05894a49aa4d21ed5223e.JPG

     

    The Champion Radiator arrived less than a week later.   it was a Bolt On fit and even came with a 13lb radiator cap.

    The Test Fit showed the Radiator Cap cleared the Hood Bulge by !" clearance.   The Upper Radiator Tank was built

    with Forward Downward Angle which aided in  the clearance.

    IMG_E3139.JPG.6833978e30f93326731bb93e71c9c2f1.JPG

     

    Looking at the Grill Area, I decided to improve the Air Flow to the Radiator.  This would be accomplished by blocking off the area between the Core Support and the Front Air Dam.

    Using Three Pieces of .025 Aluminum Sheet Metal to create the Blocking Section.   First

    thing to do was to remove the White Paint on the Aluminum Sheet.   This was done by sanding

    with an Orbital Sander with 80 grit sand paper.

    IMG_E3090.JPG.37b77ec7494bc32b443d4f44760ed6ae.JPG

     

    A Paper Template were made to create the Three Blocking Sections.

    IMG_3084.JPG.d7e4de8b109a148d0aa63bb39823407f.JPG

     

    The Round Holes  were cut into the Two Outer Plates for the Grill Lower Mounting Brackets.

    404696846_IMG_3092(1).JPG.4543cc27fd2c96e1886378730f4a41d4.JPG

     

    Test fitting of the Blocking Sections.

    IMG_E3094.JPG.28dd020819fc5eff11d6553897404b79.JPG

     

    The Right Section was attached to the Core Support using Metric Nutserts.

    IMG_3098.JPG.1f2d6ee7781bf919d9562470fa5de0c1.JPG

     

    The Paper Template of the Center Section.

    IMG_3101.JPG.a6d31a1dec64a68832f1e516930c7a87.JPG

     The Front Slot provided clearance for the Grill Bracket.

     

    The Front View of the Grill and Blocking Sections under the the Bumper.

    IMG_E3100.JPG.56ed750a7bbb842464845fd965538e30.JPG

     

    Test Fitting of the Champion Radiuator.

    IMG_3096.JPG.f7b540e16af93c3ff94109ccc40a51d0.JPG

    Napa Radiator Hose #8330-Upper and #708 -Lower had to shortened to properly fit.

    IMG_3097.JPG.b7f2970cd62692288b1247c8f42dfedc.JPG

    At this point, I decided to attempt to construct the Front Engine Pan out Aluminum Sheet.  

    A Polished Aluminum Engine Pan would look Sharp in the engine compartment.

     

                                                          The Original Front Metal Engine Pan

     

    IMG_E3107.JPG.901f209b123f93220795c70ca0466b38.JPG

     

    Making Paper Template of Engine Pan.

    IMG_3108.JPG.756d48ab59dcec924c2674d85dcb0303.JPG

     

    C Clamps were used the hold the sections from moving when polishing.

    IMG_3117.JPG.a625f98462c495e7c23e0ca942fa7bed.JPG

     

    After Sanding, the Guide Lines for the Bead Roller were drawn.

    IMG_E3122.JPG.fb12287d51fa9b9619cb5176a85a40ca.JPG

     

    using the Woodward Fab Bead Roller, the Reinforcing Beads were made to stiffen the pan.

    IMG_3130.JPG.d29ea859b1973ff2eecb17b1cffd2949.JPG

     

    After making a few beads, I discovered how difficult the beading process was to do by ones self.

    Trying to hold the metal straight and stretching over to turn the crank was next to impossible!!

    So decided to look into Motorizing the Bead roller.  These On-Line motor conversion run about $400 to $800.  I going to see if it is possible to do it for under $100.  Wish me Luck!!

     

     

     

     

     

     

  24. calZ,  In my case. There is no room to install a muffler on the Right Rear of the car.  See pics below-

    IMG_3065.JPG.e7fefff4c058151f11f9228dd28a6519.JPG Looking for Right Wheel Housing toward rear.

     

    IMG_3066.JPG.bc0c126c162dc4ca26f7c538d662e434.JPG  Looking Forward from Right Tail Light.

      

    I mounted a Holley Electric Fuel Pump in the a Custom Fuel Tank Sump.  Installed two 3/8 Nickel Copper Fuel Line

    and In-Line Fuel Filters running through the Trans Tunnel. 

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  25. Mufflers and more Exhaust Work-

         I picked Thrush Turbo Muffler which consists of a Aluminiuzed Coated Steel Metal Body because of its small size and light weight.   But after Trial Fitting, it was little too long.  The original 240Z muffler space was made for only one muffler not two.

       Returned those mufflers and order Thrush Welded Turbo version which were 1" narrower and 1" shorter.  This installation was go down to a matter of inches of clearance.

    IMG_2939.JPG.6f33c524ce2f76104a76eee2487f428e.JPG

     

    The only disadvantage of these mufflers was there were constructed of 16 gauge metal so they were heavy.

    IMG_2906.JPG.d1d71cc0afb3fba54a02455444737de4.JPG

     

    They were Duct Taped together(to stimulate being welded together) and Test Fitted in.   It was a Tight Fit.

    Had to cut about 1" of the Lower Bottom Edge of Quarter Panel to gain Side Clearance.

     

    Supporting the Mufflers was another problem because of the tight space.  So I decided to construct a Single Hanging Muffler brackets.   So the mufflers were going to be welded together and supported by 1" steel rods located on centerline of both mufflers.  Also, because of the heavy weight of the mufflers , Two Rubber Mounts (or a total of four mounts) would be used.

    IMG_2931.JPG.a77c4b90b4e1201c7f32626a379106ab.JPG

     

    Mufflers were welded together with 1/4" piece of steel to provide a mount for the 1/2'" steel rod hangers.

    IMG_2912.JPG.4931bc293ed9e3ee4b3c7a440f524abe.JPG Steel Hangers welded on.

     

    The Rear Muffler 1/2" Rod Hanger was welded to the bottom of the Rear Bumper Mounting Bracket.

    IMG_2942.JPG.76ed5cc708ed0d371ce469da159a93dd.JPG  Note- There are two Rubber Mounts on the rod.

     

    This would be the Stationary Mount.   So when installing the Mufflers, you just insert the Upper Muffler 1/2" rod into the Rubber Mounts and push the Mufflers 0n.   Then the Wheel Housing Mount can be installed.

    IMG_2943.JPG.cb5157f1d8d63b8510493a298f0fca53.JPG

     

    This Wheel Housing Mount is attached to Two 5/16" Bolts welded to a strip of 1/8" plate on the Hatch Floor.

     

    Closeup pic of Wheel Housing  Mount with Hatch Floor mount.

    IMG_2936.JPG.73627c0e75de9095c2ff1d11a03eef1f.JPG

     

    Mufflers installed.

    IMG_2906.JPG.4309f0e5d58567f759784ef573073918.JPG

     

    The Outer Muffler Inlet Pipe still had to be modified to gain Tire Clearance.  The Inlet Pipe had to shortened as

    much as possible.

    IMG_2946.JPG.22f8914d1d00dedf740b8cf428dcbf79.JPGInlet Pipe shortened.

     

    IMG_E2932.JPG.595601ff70cb539ea38ab5658d578aa9.JPG

     

    Mufflers with  Connecting Exhaust Pipes installed.

    IMG_E2963.JPG.147b53307e25615e7fef1da6a9d38598.JPGNote-V-Band  Clamps.

      

    Side View of Mufflers

    IMG_E2964.JPG.881df2a96d54b78b2d43ccdc3b284f12.JPG

    Mufflers were painted with HighTemperature Black Paint before installation.IMG_3039.JPG.49661ce12bc7037267433a3bd5bdb943.JPG

    Side View of Mufflers

     

     

    Rear View of Mufflers

    IMG_3036.JPG.b33ff47f5974502b7e58ccd70c4a2ef6.JPG

     

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