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Posts posted by toolman

  1. idiot280,   I don't think the Precision Weatherstripping is made with Silicone in it.   But they probably coated their rubber molds with silicone for easy removal of the weather stripping.   I always wipe the areas down where the adhesive is going with lacquer thinner before glueing.

        The Precision Weatherstripping is well made but is "Fatter" than the original 240z one.   So you might have readjust your door and hatch

    latches to allow them to close.  The rubber will eventually wear in.  Or if you can not wait for it to wear in, construct a similar "pull cable"  that I made for the doors and put heavy weight on the hatch.  But remember to remove the latches so they can compress the rubber more.

    .   Also, if you still have problems with the weather stripping  not sticking, use clamps or similar tools to hold the rubber down.   Especially around the corners, the adhesive on the rubber must contact the adhesive on the body.  I always check

    this by tugging on the rubber after an a hour after application.  If rubber loose, glue and clamp down again.


    I hope this information helps you.


  2.    My Weather Stripping Kit from Zdepot arrived just in time.  It costed about $300 but was high

    quality and fitment was good.



    IMG_1457.JPG.7a24e58e13abc205616d8a8a9c5b06d5.JPG  kit parts list


      The Hatch Weather Stripping was installed with 3M Super Weather Stripping Adhesive.  I found

    the older yellow version to hold better than the newer Black Version.


    Note-Be sure to let the adhesive to dry(5 - 10 minutes) or until "tacky".   Then hold both together for

    at an hour.   I used masking tape and duct tape.

    IMG_1545.JPG.fcb4a85db3f928077bbb1bc408807cfb.JPG on weather stripping


    IMG_1541.JPG.7e8620556bff31d3defc71f3b8920fd3.JPG  on body edge then hold together.







       When installing New Replacement Door Weather Stripping, if you having trouble closing the door even after

    adjustment, you try this tip.   I rigged up a 1/8" steel cable connected to the inside seat belt mounting

    hole.   Put a Turn Buckle in between the mount and cable.   The other end was attached to the latch side of the door.   A 3/4" x 2" board was utilized inside of the door to prevent damage to door.  


    The operation is simple-Turn the Turn Buckle to shorten the cable.  This will force the door

    to squeeze the weather stripping tight.   Remember to remove the latch plate on the quarter

    panel otherwise maximum force will not be achieved.  The weather stripping must be squeezed a lot to compensate

    for the"rebound factor".

     293267515_IMG_1504(1).JPG.3913c87fa6223e55d60a6d341cca9ea9.JPG seat belt mount side

    IMG_1499.JPG.7988654350e130b39e20adc9bda4a5f0.JPG  door anchor side of cable-note board inside the door



     Another tip- To cut the excessive door weather stripping, a 4 1/2" right angle grinder with a

    1/32" cutoff wheel was used because the door weather stripping contains a metal webbing



    IMG_1510.JPG.93c1f51879a31ac6a9f671af14d2baf5.JPG cross section of door weather stripping


    Another tip:   When Powder Coating. I sometimes use a piece of cardboard to hold screw and bolts 

    while sandblasting.

    IMG_1511.JPG.2e827b21e81bb60b7ba6f20a49e1ea87.JPG Next to the parts, their location was written to aid

    in assembly.

    To hang screws, bolts and washers while baking the powder coat, .030 Stainless Aircraft Safety Wire

    is used.




    This zig zag type of hanger is utilized to keep parts apart when baking.


    Rethreading of all Powder Coated items is necessary as the Powder Coating will add additional

    material to them.



  3. EF Ian, 

          Yes, In the Old Days, rechroming bumpers was a common procedure.   But now days because of the toxic byproducts and mostly the cost,  only limited  automotive chroming is done.   You can also use a a torch and braze the holes.  Then grind it smooth with 24 grit paper.  The rechromers will first apply copper plating then chrome plate it.  I would have powercoated the bumper but the center section would not fit in my small oven.   PowderCoating  powder to do this bumper would cost only about $13.

  4.   I had planned to assemble the Front and Rear Suspension to the Z but decided to work on the interior parts first.

    2062227389_IMG_1424(1).JPG.0db532e37f80bf65a341bbef06dbab57.JPG   Door Glass Regulator was cleaned and lubricated.


    1559139890_IMG_1421(1).JPG.43e778e01aad5b27cfd7a738e2336ce3.JPG   The Door Glass had a lot of Water Spots from being parked outside.


    These Water Spots were removed with #000 Steel Wool and Hand Rubbing Compound.

    1588012735_IMG_E1417(1).JPG.7080e0ea4f871abace3a2df3e995af82.JPG Rub in a Circular Pattern to remove all the spots.


    1742009712_IMG_1416(1).JPG.7d970678cf1bf9f13391017802c0d926.JPG   Looked like Brand New Door Glass.


    IMG_1415.JPG.6ac4ea3b76ec3c4a5e01da04afef5cd7.JPG   Before  Disassembly and Rebuild.


    Tools used to rebuild the Quarter Glass: Plastic Glass Tool. Rubber Hammer. Tire Lube Brush. and 1/8" Nylon Rope.



    One area of reassembly was the 1/4 Window Glass Frame.   Because of the New Weather Stripping. squeezing the Frame together posed a

    problem.   This was solved by wrapping a 1/8" Nylon Rope around the frame and 3/8" x 6" Bolt.   Twisting the bolt between the rope will cause the rope to get tighter and tighter.   This action will squeeze the frame together and allow the installation of the frame screws.



    Now, check the corner of the 1/4 frame with the long ends.

    IMG_1469.JPG.bcac88d60d2f05ff324b818c05352727.JPG  Note-A strip of Rubber added to the Frame.  This Rubber Strip fills the gap so the Outer Weather Stripping Gasket does not leak.   Check the Old OEM weather stripping.  It

    probably has a similar rubber strip that is not included with the replacement weather stripping.


    The Outer !/4 Glass Weather stripping was attached with Contact Cement ,  Use a Acid brush to apply the Glue.   Apply the Contact Cement to Both Sides (gasket and the Frame).   Make to allow the glue to dry for 10 to 15 minutes before sticking them together.



    Wrap the1/8" Nylon Rope tightly again around the Weather Stripping and then knot it so it holds till the cement dries.


    Installation of the Assembled  1/4 Glass on the car usually requires two persons.  As the Glass must be pushed both rearward into the body and

    inward to attach the mounting screws.

    IMG_1473.JPG.90ba91f4640d7b3bab7a463f1062103d.JPG  Installation Complete.


    The 1/4 Glass Frame was painted with Sem Products Trim Paint Black to match the Race Car Theme.







    In this case, the Bumper Guard and Bumper Rubber Strips Holes were going to be welded closed to provide a more Clean Look.



    !/8" Steel Plugs were cut and fitted into the holes before welded.



    IMG_1440.JPG.24b04957c5b5535587b4c36301e73958.JPG  Welded Holes after Grinding


    IMG_1458.JPG.248349598093bfd798e0ab4b63d5afe2.JPG Bumper Parts Poly Urethane Primered.




    Single Stage Black Polyurethane Paint was used to paint the Bumper Parts.


    Bumper Installed on car 

    IMG_E1486.JPG.c7e6f09b95aa26a2d7734a2818ac7c02.JPG Side View


    IMG_E1487.JPG.782615795b342f1e3c05852465a4f4dd.JPG   Center View






  5. Thanks,  Guys

         After getting the Air Compressor parts, I did a complete overhaul on the FS Curtis D96A compressor pump.



    Replaced Intake and Exhaust Valves, new Head Gasket, new Piston Rings and new Con Rod Bearings.


    After the Compressor was repaired, The Greddy Rocket Bunny Flares were installed.  On Ebay, Z Spec Design had their Rocket Bunny

    Kit Installation kit for $90.



    These tools were used to install the Flares.



    The Cleco  Clamps were utilized to hold the Flares in place while drilling.


    The Drill drilled the mounting holes into the Flares.   Also, it drilled the Body side for the Threaded Nutserts.

    IMG_1355.JPG.fa79bd668a4501f2bfaaa229428472b3.JPG Drilling the Flare


    IMG_1356.JPG.3128fd8bfa0bdd8b07a29f06d90c9821.JPG Drilling Body for Nutserts.


    I added a 11" extensions of 1" square tubing to the Nut Setter( lengthening its arms gave it additional leverage).

    IMG_1407.JPG.404ee0545fec7e9eafe83a72a802d5e9.JPG  IMG_1357.JPG.388900ba12a7221a460fac4e319874a0.JPG

    IMG_1358.JPG.e6fd2c96f4858ad15a66f556f6b46736.JPG Threaded Nut installed.


    I recommend all insets be rethreaded.  Sometimes the inserts are distorted during installation.



    IMG_1363.JPG.6c7c1cb8f18ba8fc8a80591c888852c3.JPG    Installed


    The Paint and Materials for this car was about $2000(Jobber Cost).  Sherwin Williams Ultra 7000 Poyurethane paint(Basecoat) and CC2000 Clear Coat were used.   I also used the 3M TRiZ Sanding system which consists of P1000, 1500 and P3000 Velco Sandpaper was utilized too.  This method reduced the polishing times drastically.













    Next thing to do:   Installing Front and rear Suspension on the car.  Happy Fourth of July Holiday to everyone!!


  6. The Whole car was recoated with the Final Poly Primer then completely block sanded again.



    After the Final Sanding, masking of the car was next.   As the car had no front windshield, door glass and rear hatch installed, there was nothing

    to tape to as in regular masking.   So Back Masking was utilized.   Back Masking is masking from the rear or from the inside out.

    To begin with, 3" Masking Tape was applied around the edges of the Front Windshield Opening(from the inside) so the sticky side of the 3"

    tape protruded outward about 1".    Two or Three Vertical 3" Back Tape were added to provide support for the Masking Paper.

     IMG_1271.JPG.a46aeb4cc14a16c54e105b5bd97cc9f6.JPG Add  3"Horizontal stripes of tape on the 

    Vertical Tapes to make them tight as possible to support the masking paper.

    Masking Paper was added from the top edge of the Windshield to the bottom edge of the windshield.   Make the masking  paper a little larger.  Lay the masking paper to the tape on the windshield edges and the vertical tapes.   Don't press the tape and masking paper together yet.    Using a new razor blade to cut the excess paper allowing for 1/2" of sticky 1" tape exposed.



    When you finish cutting the excess paper off, apply 3/4" masking tape to the 1/2" area.  So your masking paper will squeezed between the Back Masked

    3"tape and the 3/4" masking tape and be really secure.



    This view shows the Masked Widshield looks like from the inside.




    The Door Widow and Rear Side Glass was also masked with Back Masking.



    Since, the Rear Hatch was a large area to mask, a slightly different procedure of masking.   I used a Welders Tie Wire to provide more support

    for the masking paper.



    2133445490_IMG_1279(1).JPG.5c016af3353f76711868780dbc82b819.JPG    2039791963_IMG_1278(1).JPG.f9b2e99eea03d0a950476c49001f907f.JPGWelders Wire 


    A piece of cardboard also added to give support when pressing the masking paper and tape together.  Otherwise, since the hatch area is closed

    off at the back, you can't stick your hand under the masking paper to press the masking paper and tape together.

    806897300_IMG_1282(1).JPG.11330da55738fe2eab51da5159f2b70d.JPG Note-The Hatch edges are Back Masked

    as the Front Windshield.

    The Engine Compartment was masked using the same as the Rear Hatch procedure.

    951499167_IMG_1285(1).JPG.4dd71c168bdf7fcb0041cc992486ffb2.JPG  Used a X pattern with the Welders Wire in this case mainly because the availability of body holes.

      Now, I went about to mask the car for a TWO COLOR paint job.

    2052926800_IMG_1290(1).JPG.5dde898eca41d9cb9df0dcb5ed0978f3.JPG  Note-Blue !/4" Pin Stripping tape was

     utilized to produce a sharper line than regular masking tape.

    1840379455_IMG_1291(1).JPG.9c118af6b4c434c38bfe31e4dcd2b5fc.JPG   Red Top


    IMG_1292.JPG.1fe0a01a9a31b07dc7f698cb2aa2e67a.JPG  White Bottom


    IMG_1293.JPG.45c8a3f2c2104860e723a6b6f801d57a.JPG   Rear Hatch and Hood being painted.


    Made a Paper Template for Racing Stripe.

    IMG_1318.JPG.5dbd1b5d1e55b48f0ce1788ff4736a62.JPG  Flip Template over for the Opposite Side.


    IMG_1312.JPG.30f80e6ac2efe88fb3e89f83dadea55b.JPG  Racing Stripe with Datsun Logo


    IMG_1323.JPG.58760bd5c84c3d0ff4cbb1f84ed9b05a.JPG After Striping and Clear Coating


    IMG_E1300.JPG.4ba6f2b6c805c4c62ab970f54124e394.JPG   Rear View


    963045660_IMG_1324(1).JPG.8cd1faa64bdf56b79a2f0a6048d79bcc.JPG  Side View


    Unfortunately, after I clearcoat the Z, my garage 7 1/2 HP air compressor broke down.   When I tried to start it the next morning, the air compressor

    would not build pressure.   Lucky me, it did not happen when I was Clear Coating.   So any way, I took the  compressor pump apart.

    NXVR0042.JPG.f14552dc736f2c26c1da44d6bd321d19.JPG  MPVO2312.JPG.438629ab343c608c4346298b6fdea40c.JPG


    So, Come Monday, I will order the Master OverHaul Kit which has new piston rings, rod bearing and valve parts plus gaskets and various 

    seals.   Then I can Clear Coat the Flares, Soiler and Front Panel.


  7. Nelsonian,  Thanks for the tip.   I will post my solution when it happens,


    Here is a pic of the Right side Rain Gutter finally primed.

    IMG_1233.JPG.05016bc40a0cdd629e0e46d5ff83d003.JPG  Came out real smooth.


    I had constructed a frame to hold the Spray Booth Exhaust Flilters but got rid of it as it took up too much space.   So I came up with a much

    more simplified method to the filters.    I  just screwed a dozen clothes pins to the garage door.

    IMG_1222.JPG.7068d5e21159ffdb9cb0235a6543aad4.JPG  Inside view


    887897729_IMG_1248(1).JPG.0ee9651e2f6bfe6798d17dc4cbe6f6cb.JPG  Simple and but Effective.


    IMG_1223.JPG.99b151444dd4b80a9d17c9cf61c89297.JPG  Outside view of Exhaust Filters.


    Now, Back of Body Work:   I utilized Black Primer in a spray can to locate Low Spots in the bodywork.



    IMG_1246.JPG.66cae880e7607622ecfbdab43371674a.JPG  IMG_1256.JPG.aa281f61746cbd4a137c97e3254dc14f.JPG                                                                                   Only a Light Coat of Black Primer Spray is necessary,


    Use Sanding Blocks( short and long)   Long one is for large areas (roof and hood).   Start sanding in a Diagonal Direction then sand over the cut

    in Opposite Diagonal  Direction to create a "X" Pattern.   Using this method, the low areas will show up as dark spots.

    1312031067_IMG_1232(1).JPG.c0438528f8e74b1e17131a8ed93bf4e2.JPG   Hood with the Low Spots covered with a thin layer of Body Filler.


    To Restore the Body Lines on the Doors, Apply 3/4" Masking Tape with its Lower edge run the new tape top on the Body 

    Line.   When you finish sanding along this edge, you end up with a nice straight body line.   The 240z body line have a sharp edge so

    you cut the sharpness with the sanding block.

    IMG_1251.JPG.3eebdec3c9b35bc6bc7bf854945522cf.JPG  creating a Body Line.


    The Cowl Panel sprayed with Low Spot Finder,



    IMG_1242.JPG.984cf04e5ed2a4dfa0b34247facf5f34.JPG  Cowl  Panel masked to prevent overspray.


    IMG_1245.JPG.ee603ffce3847c5a2aafd08bd694b31a.JPG   Cowl Panel with Low Spots filled.


    1505254351_IMG_1258(1).JPG.18d77a5183ff8c8eb835f61a63f07abf.JPG R/Quarter Panel and Door Sprayed.


    1276098497_IMG_1259(1).JPG.eb21a694a75fbce16a7041e20d3cdcb7.JPG  Right Fender ready for more sanding.


    This fixing low spots and spraying HD primer filler can go on for a couple of times.    The 240z thin Sheetmetal (.023") body lends itself

    abundance of small dents.  


     As a lot of you are "stuck at home " during this Pandemic and can't work on your 240Z,  here is a solution:

     Hot Wheels  71 Datsun 240z Rocket Bunny car.



    Hot Wheels has several versions of Datsun 240z -completely stock to Radical Race Cars.    Collect them or modify them.

    I will modify mine and post my progress.


  8. A Reinforcement was constructed for the Front Rocket Bunny Bumper.  It was made of 1" x 1/8" square tubing with 3/16" bumper brackets.

    First, a template of the reinforcement  was made out of cardboard.



    Bumper Brackets were made 3/16" Plate Steel and cut out with a 4 1/2 Angle Grinder.



    Pics of both Front Bumper Brackets



    Pic of Bumper Reinforcement Bar



    Reinforcement Bar mounted.






    Attempts to use Insulation Foam to attach the Fiberglass Bumper to the Reinforcement Bar failed.  The problem was the difficulty to

    get the Foam evenly between the Bumper and Reinforcement.   Because the Corona Virus, the solution to this problem will have to wait

    until more stores open up.

    IMG_1173.JPG.7814cff21f7fb2157f699b54c059a12b.JPG   Unsuccessful for now!


    I constructed Four Flat 16 Gauge plates of 16 gauge Sheetmetal to fasten the Front Flares to the Front Valance Panel.

    2039014642_IMG_1191(1).JPG.b2dd1331200136ebb7a99043fea9e7b6.JPG   Note: The Plate is folded on the outside edge of the the Plate.  This Fold

    greatly increases the strengthens the Plate.


    A Right Angle Die Grinder and a Tight Fit Drill Attachment were used because of the tight space.



    Inside Front Wheel Housing, pic of the Reinforcing Plates "sandwiching" both fiberglass parts together.



    Outside View of the "sandwiched" parts



    The Roof Rail Gutters were seam sealed with Fastline #FS2SL.   It is a self leveling sealer and made for car rain gutters.  Working Time is 10 minutes so you got to rush.   It can be painted in 30 minutes and fully cures in 2 hours.   It flows like water so don't forget to "dam" both ends of the gutter.



    The next day, the sealer flowed so much that I had to apply a second coat.

    450530717_IMG_E1213(1).JPG.23aa6b7799d9bab6906d5b8df9a87e28.JPG   If necessary, you can sand the sealer smooth.


    The Front and Rear suspension were removed to prevent the parts from overspray even with masking.   The plastic curtains opened up

    and work area was cleaned in preparation for car painting.



    But, there is a lot of preparation(a whole lot of sanding and masking) before actual car painting.


    IMG_1207 (1).JPG

  9.   The Left Rear Flare was mocked on by creating a template of the completed Right Rear Flare.



    The Rocket Bunny Front Valance Panel mocked on the car,



    Pictures of the Greddy Rocket Bunny Front Valance Mounting points.

    1568142272_IMG_1086(1).JPG.1f6d923d7b3c02b3351d984413b44ca2.JPG  Note-the original holes were only 3/16".




    It was at this point that I decided to add additional mounts from the car frame to fiberglass front valance panel.  Otherwise, it would not be

    strong enough for even a street vehicle.

       The mounting brackets would be constructed with 1/4"solid steel rod and 1/8" steel plate.

    IMG_1112.JPG.cfb942960f68fa5bdd326d083dbb6d5d.JPG  Center mount was mounted to the frame extending to center of Valance Panel.


      Mig Welding of the side Valance Mounts


    The Valance mounts would extend to both L/R sides of the grille and marker lamp areas.



    IMG_1129.JPG.4e0fdd6b48e4a8369f28e033ef773303.JPG  Left and Right Mounts before Powder Coating.


    IMG_E1134.JPG.30ef1070777edd1a34dd1ac77643065c.JPG Left Valance Mount powder Coated installed

        The Front Flares were mocked on using Cleco Pins.



    IMG_1091.JPG.ca3b51d79028dd5db0981d3faab5155f.JPG  Inside view of Left Flare


    The Grill was disassembled for sand blasting and powder coating.

    The Grille consists of 6-Horizonial grille blades, 4-Vertical mounts and 4-3mm x 8" Long Bolts.   So I took a lot of pics so I would not

    forget where everything went.

        As the Grille is about 4 feet wide, it would not fit in my Powder Coating oven.    So I constructed 2' x 2' x 4'  box out of 3/4" plywood.

    It was lined inside with Aluminum Foil to retain the heat.



    IMG_E1122.JPG.0ee5eb3a1a4d93fe3538a41e2b6deda9.JPG A 2000watt Infared heat lamp provided the heat.

    IMG_1123.JPG.bc781a4e7645078e69c690f0f1e326a2.JPG  Powder Coating the Grille parts.


    IMG_1143.JPG.3bd9af4dfd5e8cf8e6a78fda8eb36712.JPG  The Grille was powder coated with Flat Black Powder then assembled.










  10.    I had planned to work on installing the front suspension parts on my Z but I discovered that my supply of Gold powder was almost gone.

    So while I waited for the Gold Powder to arrive, I decided to finishing cutting the Right Front fender for the Rocket Bunny Flares.   Like the Rear Flares, I made a Template of the already completed Left Front Fender.

    IMG_1062.JPG.e27c568fe4974e818d755390811d6397.JPG  Note- I use almost all the fender edges( top, back, front and bottom) to create the

    template.  The more reference points that you use, the more accurate the template will be.

    IMG_1063.JPG.9e5221d3698a92525ff65488d24af644.JPG  Side view of template


    Put template on the Right fender then

    IMG_E1064.JPG.5c8f1d9a1fdad3df0a6b29c2c15667c2.JPG  Transfer the trim lines using a Black Marker pen.


    A Tin Snips was used to trim the fender.   It was used as cutting thin metal like the front fender, vibrates a lot and making it hard to control.

    IMG_1067.JPG.dc54fc038204658dcba5bbd40b35e3eb.JPG       IMG_1060.JPG.2855df562f6a1568ce149e7ab040b4ec.JPG  

    Note- make sure to grind all trimmed edges to prevent future sheet metal cracks.

    Next thing to do was to clean all of the Front Suspension parts in preparation for painting or powder coating.   The rear stub axles were prepped at the same time to conserve  paint materials.

       All the parts were first cleaned with cup wire brush on a 4 1/2 electric grinder to remove the heavy grease, dirt and paint.   Then a Heavy Grease Removal soap ( was used  straight without dilution) was used.   First, with the parts cleaning brush then with a air solvent gun shooting the degreaser( now diluted) to get those hard to get to areas.



     IMG_1057.JPG.908f7a7b51f17af472769a60047042f8.JPG Blasting away 


     IMG_1059.JPG.c5bd4e086edecdd2c5d0dadd4456b77b.JPG   Stub axles after paining with Black Polyurethane paint.  Note- the rubber joint

    boots were masked off otherwise the axles would have been disassembled to remover them.


    The other suspension parts after Polyurethane Painting.



    IMG_1048.JPG.0c6a731b8797cace1f0a11dc4cc03a3a.JPG   Before Powder Coating


    IMG_1049.JPG.748c5059c910b3ef02a9524325e12717.JPG   After Powder coating


    RRMJ4605.JPG.b9f061f3dd0c64f8c0f7e6ca0a064c0e.JPG  A flange bolt powder coated


    Front crossmember mounted

    IMG_1071.JPG.f99de9e0d646a6ed6352426461e74f81.JPG   Note- new Camber adjusting bolts were installed.

    IMG_1070.JPG.76d9088d9043c536bf7fd067f67fa687.JPG Front to rear view of Front Suspension.  Note -The Powder coated parts gives

    a nice contrast with Gloss Black suspension parts.   


    IMG_1073.JPG.f481fb11cf0f25fc0369f0217013b88b.JPG   Side view of the Right Side Suspension


    It took a lot of cleaning, grinding, painting and powder coating but I think it was worth it.

        Next, installing the Wheel/Tire Fitment Tool on the Front Suspension to check it out, is next.



    • Like 1
  11. Sorry for the delayed reply.  My 87 HONDA TRX350 ATV transmission shifter was jammed in gear.   As it required me to split the outer left and right cases, the repair took two days to complete.

    It had to be repaired as it occupies the garage opposite of the 240z and there would be no space to work.



    This Front Loader Conversion to my Honda ATV was done before I started the 240Z restromod.  I scratch built on a 87 HONDA TRX350

    ALL WHEEL DRIVE ATV IN about a year ago.   It can lift 400lbs in the loader bucket and has a 30 gallon water tank in the rear for ballast.   The conversion was made to be Bolt On Accessory and can be removed in about 30 minutes.   



    Now back to the Z Project.

       All Four of the Flares were painted inside and out with Polyurethane Primer.

    IMG_1023.JPG.4471408bdaefbe5af50cd6fd61c797f9.JPG           IMG_1024.JPG.fd498760fab947e75e0f2f7998a6a6dc.JPG

    Had problems removing silicone from the mold release on the flares.   Had to use Wax and Grease Remover and HD Water base soap several times to get the silicone off.

    Due the Windy conditions, I had to paint the parts in garage so had the cover the 240z with Plastic Sheeting to prevent overspray.



    The Plastic Sheeting can be gotten from automotive paint suppliers.



    Wheel Fitment Tool

        Finally get to use the Wheel Fitment Tool that was made coupe of months ago.



    This was the closest size tire that I could find to use-225x 45x 18.   The wheel that I will be simulating is Rota RKR 17 x 9 1/2 with 20mm  negative offset.  As the sample tire is not large enough,  it will be used with the majority of the tire will be facing outward to check fitment.   As I running lowered coilovers, the inner clearance with strut is not a problem.


    First, install the Fitment tool with two lower legs set to 18 " diameter and third leg retracted.  Now, adjust the two lower legs tire width adjustors to fit securely.



    Now, Adjust the upper third leg to obtain the 18"diameter and adjust the tire width adjusters for a snug fit.




    The only  wheel that I found that had specifications came close  was ROTA RKR 17 x 9.5  with -20MM offset.

    I put its specifications on a wooden paint mixing stick.

    IMG_1026.JPG.f902a770dd20a52a98ce0a82c19e37ea.JPG Remember that this tire is only 18" so the 9 1/2 tire will stick more inward.


    IMG_E1034.JPG.e448fd89d772f74eb1da73f2157a8628.JPG  This stick show the wheel offset.  The "C" line indicates the center line of the Rota wheel.



      The inner end of the stick indicates the width of a 274/45 tire.


    IMG_E0999.JPG.2cf6c06d1c399bc62977e98e94ed47bf.JPG    Front tire clearance shown


    IMG_1030.JPG.391b5ea13950228b9db3d77c644e1011.JPG  Front to rear view



    Side View of the Wheel/ Tire Fitment Tool on the car.   As the car is on a dolly and there is almost no weight in the car, something had to be done

    to set Ride Height.    So I removed the upper strut spring section to allow upward movement of the suspension.   I set the ride height setting the center of the wheel hub to the lower body line of the car.   From most pics of street driven lowered 240z cars,  the center of the rear hubs were in line with the body line.   

    This is not perfect way but I think it is close enough to demonstrate ride height until I can actually load the suspension after the complete swap.



    For those of you, that wanted more tire fitment information, I bent a 1/8" wire shaped to match the tire cross section that you wanted to check.

    IMG_0983.JPG.763c60394bf049de8ae81555b352604b.JPG In this case, a 274 x45 tire cross section was created and bolted to one of the wheel legs.


    IMG_0985.JPG.7bd888d43a44896a68483836b3bc5a4e.JPG  You  just rotate the simulated tire cross section to check any clearance issues with body and strut.


    IMG_0986.JPG.55e756bf69ae9c3778a43b2235921a0c.JPG   Check Front Clearance of the flare.


    IMG_E1025.JPG This rear view demonstrates what a 274 tire would look look like.

    Remember the 275 tire  would extend to the end of the stick or about a inch more inward.


    The next thing to do is to put the Tire/Wheel Fitment Tool on the front suspension and see what tire/wheel combination

    could work on there.

  12. Rear Suspension Overhaul:

         A Threaded Steel Rod with nuts and assorted washers were used to install rear control arm outer bushings.

    IMG_0902.JPG.b44caf60e85f95373ba6cd9ef55a5573.JPG  This method was used because although slow, it has less chance of damaging the

    steel metal bushing housing on these control arms.


    Ordered ZDepot 50mm extended wheel studs and Muteki extra long wheel lug nuts from EBAY.   They maybe necessary to gain proper wheel fitment later.



    The old wheels studs were removed by hammering them into the large metal tube.



    Hub parts were powdered coated.

    IMG_E0908.JPG.01b74a638c71823ba8397844da53ae8c.JPG       IMG_E0911.JPG.6ef6f301a2ff1483f514c4b04b55d07e.JPG


    Lisle Tools Wheel Stud Installer only requires a 1/2 impact gun and lug  socket to install the new wheel studs.



    The Hub Outer Bearing was pressed on the hub.



    The Outer Hub bearing was then packed with grease.  The whole assembly was pressed into the strut housing.



    Now, by looking into the  inner bearing bore-check the two casting cutouts to determine if the bearing is properly seated.   After

    which. the bearing cavity and spacer is packed with grease.   I used a paint paddle to spread the grease into the cavity.



    The Inner Bearing(non sealed one) is packed with grease.



    To install this bearing, you can use the old bearing to tap the new one in.  Don't worry the old one won't get stuck in.

    Keep tapping it until a solid feeling and sound occurs for proper seating.



    Coat the inside of the seal with grease especially the seal lip.   Tap the seal with hammer( can use old bearing also) to about 3/16" below edge.

    Then, the flange. washer and locking nut are installed.



    A Dial !/2 Torque Wrench was used to torque the Locking Nut.   Specifications call for 180 to 250FT LBS.   The reason of the range is the Bearing Preload cannot be determined by Foot Pounds alone.   So you slowly torque to 180 ft lbs then check turning torque and keep doing this till everything is right.  The Hub Shaft nut turning torque is about 4 inch pounds.  The shaft endplay is 0  to .0059.    You will need a Dial Indicator to do this but not necessary. So you try to achieve all these parameters to get a accurate bearing preload.

    IMG_0946.JPG.779c81d2db7a5aedf618fbae821f6353.JPG  1/2 Dial Torque Wrench


    IMG_0941.JPG.69f874391ee3675cdc2768429236cb07.JPG  A Dial Inch Pound Torque Wrench checking Turning Torque( about 4 inlbs)


    A Dial Indicator can be utilized to check for 0 to .0059"  End Play

    After completing Bearing Preload, I flattened the Locking Nut tab to prevent the Hub Nut from loosening.




    IMG_E0939.JPG.2926244ae077e5400a0a4d35bdc8efbd.JPG        IMG_E0945.JPG.ab83731b1a564300b67689631677dff9.JPG


    Next, the Rear Flares will be attached.    The Wheel/Tire Fitment Tool will be installed to check fitment issues.


  13. Richard, Thanks for complement.

          The cowl area was masked for seam sealer spraying for added protection.



    Sem Products Sprayable Seam Sealer                                                              Using  Sem Sealer Spray Gun

    IMG_0880.JPG.cdfadb9b5d2337cca4ec5bd2ccce0ba1.JPG          IMG_E0881.JPG.9b7d78d607eab9704ba31d9c91432989.JPG


    IMG_E0878.JPG.f650e964096b8c28cd4ab33d02f3ea6a.JPG   Central cowl area sprayed


    IMG_E0876.JPG.85162c12af09439ef5519f38a6c8e749.JPG   right side of cowl


    IMG_E0879.JPG.d42eb4d473aecac06d1da510427a3147.JPG    Left Rear Wheel Housing interior area sprayed.



    Seam Sealer was sprayed in between the quarter panel and wheel housing area( the patched area) too.

    IMG_0868.JPG.59d3105d5461388ed64a48284068d2eb.JPG  Note-the 3/16" steel rod between the quarter panel and wheel housing can be seen.


    This view shows seam sealer coverage on the inside of the front of the wheel housing.



    View of the  bottom of the fuel filler area sprayed.



    Upper area of the fuel filler area.   Note-the back side of the fuel filler compartment was also sprayed.



    The Right wheel housing was sprayed with White Raptor Bedliner after Fusion Seam Sealer was applied over all patch seams.

    IMG_0882.JPG.dd5bf0136f3c48eac5523389e4785df6.JPG  Front view of Right Wheel housing sprayed.


    IMG_E0885.JPG.6c702ff8d0616fb49fe54abf8204e978.JPG  Right rear Wheel housing sprayed.


    Pic of my garage work area.



    Suspension parts painted with Gloss Black Single Stage Polyurethane Paint on my driveway.



    IMG_0897.JPG.f6888a4056ddc6a515373dd61f97f001.JPG   R200 differential was also painted.


    IMG_0899.JPG.3854d5f7a7375bc679b8bfffd896523a.JPG   Rear Strut housing painted.


    Next thing for me to do is replacing bearings and bushings suspension parts and the reassembly begins.

  14.  Replicating the Left Rear Wheel Housing to the Right Side.

    To do this task, will require making a paper template of the newly modified Left Rear Flare opening.   A large piece of paper was placed

    over the L/R flare opening.  The major reference lines to be traced are: #1 The Front Edge of the Rear Quarter Panel.  #2 is the Wheel Well

    Opening Edge.

    IMG_0791.JPG.ca30da32e91929375212a25a651da85a.JPG The distance between the Top Center of the Wheel Opening to the one of 

    body holes for mounting the Rear Quarter Glass.   The measurement will be the height of the flare opening.



    You may have to darken your Guide Edges if their ink is not visible on the opposite side of the template.   Remember you have to use the opposite

    side the template for the correct orientation.   Using the edge guide line and height measurement to align the template on the Right Side.


    Make sure to securely tape the top edge of the template to the quarter panel as you don't wanted the pattern moving.


    The Orange Lines in this closup show the areas to must be filled in because overcutting from previous flaring.  This provides pattern

    for the filler panels.


    Creating the Rear Filler panel. Note- guide lines help to keep filler aligned.




    The Front Filler Panel being created.


    Pic of the Inner Wheel housing to Quarter Panel Filler patch Template.



    To make this Flare Opening a little easier to weld the quarter panel and wheel housingtogether,   3/16" Steel Rod from Home Depot( $13 for 8Ft)

    was used.  The rod would weld between quarter panel and wheel housing filler.   It prevents burn through especially with .023 sheet metal.



    On the Front Side of Quarter Panel (Dog Leg Section), there are some curves in the panel so you must bend the rod to follow the curves.


    That task is accomplished by holding one end of rod with vise grips and using a torch to soften the 3/16" rod.  Then bending the rod until the

    required shape is obtained.

        Note-I have used this technique of welding round steel rods around flare opening on many cars.   You can use 3/16" to 3/4" steel tubing or even brake lines to outline the tire openings.   But solid  steel rods don't kink like fuel lines would  This method really reinforces the edge and prevents tire damage in case there is contact.


    For those of you who are tired of getting burnt by hot sparks while welding in confined areas, I would recommend getting this welding gear.

    The Tight Fitting Welding /Grinder Automatic Darkening Hood  Gear.   Regular Welding Helmets were never made for tight confined areas.

    After trying this welding gear at the Sema Show, I ordered one for myself.

    IMG_E0824.JPG.413d007b6b8241820404b34a649594d9.JPG     IMG_0826.JPG.21f4a0b9140ece1b62ad74895db7cecc.JPG   


    The Rear Filler Patch mig welded in place.



    Pic of the Front Wheel Housing patch template.




    IMG_E0834.JPG.11a050be8e7dc9e9daf46417f02f3648.JPG  This patch was created using Left and Right Cut Tinsnips.   They make cutting curves


    IMG_0840.JPG.918006c53d27186bad4f1f180b10c6e5.JPG Front patch after hammering and metal shaping.


    IMG_0841.JPG.a4fec6b4c5d5572556d11faf8185896d.JPG      IMG_E0842.JPG.48d6fdbbd145381c5d20d9396101a59f.JPG    

    The area to be filled in.                                                                                              Patch test fitted.


    IMG_E0852.JPG.776e0f237e634d594b400bbc6b3cd856.JPG  Top Wheel Housing Filler patch


    IMG_E0853.JPG.dff3ae1527083803c2f9b9964961720c.JPG   Rear Wheel Housing Patch


    IMG_E0854.JPG.19051c745d2af67e96a3a9d9cf0301a7.JPG Rear Housing Filler patch




    The Next Thing to do is spray Raptor Bedliner over the inner wheel housing for extra protection.  Then Top Coat it with Single Stage Polyurethane paint.

  15. Left Front Fender modifications for Greddy Flares.

    After placing Rocket Bunny flare against the fender then mark the area to be removed with a black marker pen.



    A Electric shears was used to cut the major removal cuts.

    IMG_0233.JPG.51bc50101261af8b7c4c81a7b66e0c50.JPG  Always cut carefully to prevent "over cutting too much".


    IMG_0235.JPG.66657f4fe577fe74c5bfb7d59cd6d633.JPG A Hand Nibbler was used in the Finishing Cuts.


    The Finished Product



    Rear Wheel Housing Modifications for the Rear Flares-

    Like the Front flare. the Rear Rocket Bunny Flares are mocked against the existing quarter panel.

    IMG_0228.JPG.fc09a3856f549a268dd09050d650e0b2.JPG The Outer edge of the flare is marked

    with a Black Marker Pen.

    In my case, I had already removed the original wheel opening edge when I constructed metal flares previously, there was a little less

    of the quarter panel to remove.

    IMG_0437.JPG.56b38f45c86517154c3ed4256a02da28.JPG Bottom view of the wheel well(looking upward from the ground)

    As the photos show the gap between the quarter panel and wheel housing  was only about 3/4".  So I could have just squeeze both panels together

    and mig welded them together.   But I decided to cut an additional 3" higher to give more tire clearance and allow more body drop.  Better to do it

    now instead of later.

    IMG_E0714.JPG.f8b3498cbf81cf974aa6e554f3f6de80.JPGSide view of additional cutout.


    But now, the gap  between quarter panel and wheel housing increased by about 2 1/2".   So fillers had to made to fill these gaps.

    IMG_0737.JPG.953398b2f5b9592e59114c0ec33d8a98.JPG Patch being mocked up.


    The Sheetmetal Roller was utilized roll the metal to match the wheel housing.

    IMG_0739.JPG.fc31c65fd34af22dd831d4df146b6ddc.JPG    IMG_0740.JPG.34ae112dd47f5e2f6464152473f8ec4a.JPG  making gap fillers


    IMG_0748.JPG.495105d9e483a24d0f9d84e52e7439c4.JPGOverall view of the gap fillers

    IMG_E0743.JPG.2d5e5332f6c29fba14cfa4c7265b43be.JPG      IMG_0744.JPG.c2a6d05cb11573c47f4007448dea6f95.JPG

    An Air Punch/Flanger is used to flange the edges of the fillers to make the filler surface smooth and stronger.


    Cleco pins and vise grips hold the gap filler plates in place for welding.



    The front of the Left wheel well housing needed a patch so a paper template was created.

    IMG_0754.JPG.05725a33688183921b3cb501ab583401.JPGNote- the bottom of this patch had to be

    "rolled over" by making a slit on the bottom then hammer welded the slit closed.


    The patch started as a flat piece of 20 gauge sheet metal that heated with a torch to soften it.

    IMG_0752.JPG.c621bb429ab2802e72cce36ae2734b47.JPG     IMG_0741.JPG.325e158b81ab7b911be2c299464ca9f9.JPG


    Then was hammered with a Shaping Hammer on a Leather Shot Bag to shape the patch.


    IMG_0753.JPG.3b9b26fb71693b3fb01c828a60ff7754.JPG Additional pounding with a Ball Peen Hammmer.


    IMG_0757.JPG.f2eb6904ebb77b3a82ce0551ca4f8062.JPG  The Patch fitted into place then tack welded in.


    The inside portion of the wheel well patch was covered with Fusor Seam Sealer.IMG_0776.JPG.bcc7dd321e65ffe07ba00407b60e84c0.JPG


    IMG_E0780.JPG.40f79ff8adc983fba34f0d215440f413.JPG  Inside of the wheel housing,  EverCoat  Epoxy Seam Sealer was applied over all welds and all seams.    Polyurethane paint will be spray painted over all of the repaired areas.    The inside wheel well areas will also be covered with

    Urethane BedLiner for additional protection.



  16. Just returned from vacation in Tokyo.   While travelling the rural area, I manage a get a picture{not a good one though} of a Japanese Snap On Tool Truck.

    IMG_0590.JPG.da7af4c94f855fbea27f12fc474272cb.JPG  I think it is only about 12' long box van.   Tiny in US standards. 

    Snap On Tools  in Japan sell for double of US prices too.


     However, when I returned home. there was a Big Surprise for me.   The Greddy S30 Rocket Bunny Full Body kit was waiting for me.  The shipping box was about 18" x 24" x 8 foot long thick card board.   It was packed very well also.   These kits are only manufactured when you order it.   It 

    took 9 months before I received it.  But as the pictures show the quality and workmanship was top notch.

    IMG_0239.JPG.9500c1f9b6e3e57319f057bbc4ef5735.JPG The Rocket Bunny Kit consists of one- Front Lower Panel, one Front Bumper, two

    Front Fenders, two-Rear Fender Flares, one Rear Spoiler and bag of Miscellaneous Mounting bolts/ Fender Gap Inserts.

    I am including detail pic of the individual fiberglass parts so their  quality workmanship can be seen.

    IMG_0243.JPG.950586822a2df9da919a0847315e5a19.JPG  Front view of parts


    IMG_0244.JPG.ec64b3af7558f7d3b67f1eb5504c4eb4.JPG  Rear View of Parts


    351284975_IMG_0457(1).JPG.4d4025e02ae6dd503f60ea22d30ad021.JPG  Inside of Front Lower Panel( note-the smooth figerglass layout and finishing

    sanding of the edges.}

    781719614_IMG_0459(1).JPG.78d19281006a2cda203f36955b4d5d11.JPG Backside of Front Fender


    2074894473_IMG_0460(1).JPG.6da2eb7ddef33a1609e9ee44cac162ea.JPG Inside of Rear Flares


    597498190_IMG_0465(1).JPG.ec64356e02f289497b2a8d09b72af024.JPG  Outside view of Front Lower Panel

    Note-very detailed with Turn Signal mounting holes.


    IMG_0464.JPG.6a64791eb389e01471615856ca18f5aa.JPG Exterior view- smooth and detailed


    709844053_IMG_0466(1).JPG.a1a9c59b9368731763fae5815afa014e.JPG  Inside view 0f Front Bumper

    Note- Front Bumper Mounting insert

    IMG_0471.JPG.44966595d79aa38bd013e7ef12395ba1.JPG Top View-Front Bumper


    330884940_IMG_0473(1).JPG.0222b3a86a6efbd3796ce0ad56594280.JPG Rear View-Rear Spoiler


    IMG_0474.JPG.f81ea0118b2fdcaae5c1c0c7a9a3a2d4.JPG Front view-Rear Spoiler


    The real test of a good body kit is its fitment.   Those cheap Chinese kits usually require a lot of manhours to make them to look decent.

    IMG_0211.JPG.55cee7e0d2a9d9525610c1209f9bb467.JPGFront bumper and lower front panel


    Left front Flare


    IMG_0208.JPG.0c5b90de0d3a0618462ad3fe84bf3a2b.JPG Right Front flare


    IMG_0206.JPG.ae464eedc4c77ad40ae5ecca1428b9b7.JPG  Left rear flare(note separate door flare


    1812684570_IMG_0237(1).JPG.9c235801c954365c97b3920b004b92ef.JPG  Side view of Rocket Bunny Body kit


    IMG_0238.JPG.946bd3a719e5edc14aa6d977c09dff4a.JPG Front view of Rocket Bunny Kit


    The Front Flares only require trimming the fender to make it work.   The rear flares will require more manhours to fill the gap between the inner and outer quarter panels and the outer flare.




  17. The original door glass molding was in terribly shape.



    First thing to do was removing the old weather stripping.  The old weather stripping is attached using staples.   The best way to remove the molding is to twist the weather stripping with pliers to continue to "roll up" the weather stripping.



    If the stainless has scratches or small dents, repair them first.  Then, sand with 400 grit sand paper then slowly progress to 1000 grit.   Then, use a cloth buffing wheel prepared with Stainless Steel Polishing Rouge to get it to look like new.



    I tried using pop rivets to hold the weather stripping on the molding but the rivet head protruded too far inward.



    Instead, 3M spray adhesive was applied to under the weather tripping and on to the molding surface.

    After waiting 30 minute for adhesive to dry, the weather stripping was installed on the molding.




    Cross section view of the weather stripping glued on the molding.



    polished molding and new weather stripping.



    Molding installed on door



    IMG_0504.JPG.440ed394be3a0b2f688a5e2a483c6719.JPG Used Chrysler Christmas Tree clips(from Ebay} to hold lower fender flap.

  18.   A problem occurred with the weather stripping that was glued to the rear inner fender deflectors.   The adhesive was strong enough to hold the

    weather stripping on.   The solution was to use "T" type  weather stripping clips( from Chysler) to do the job.

      Got them from Ebay.


    3/16" holes were drilled into the deflector plate.



    A small scissors was used to create a "Diamond" shaped hole in the weather stripping above the corresponding hole.


    Twist the "T" clips into the hole In the weather stripping.



    Push the "T" clip completely into the mounting hole.



    Pic of the "T" clip fully installed.



    The Lower fender flap was installed using two "Christmas Tree" type retainers(from Ebay).

    The retainers replace screws which tend to fall out.





  19. PapaSmurf,

       Try going to CR Laurence website.   They are one of the largest glass and glazing product supplier in the USA.   Go to their

    Automotive Section then to Search-type in Sun Roofs.   They have all the parts(even the replacement glass).   I did not see exact

    size that you were looking for (33 1/2" X 14")  But they had 35" X 15" gaskets so you would have cut 1 1/2" off.  That is, if the cross section

    of the gasket was similar.   If it is similar, cut the gasket a little larger( 1/4")  so if it shrinks, it would not leak.  Also, put the gap of the gasket in the

    rear of the sunroof to help eliminate wind forcing water in as you drive at high speed.  I hope this information helps.



  20. Finishing under the front fenders

        Decided to make the upper front fender splash deflectors.  Bought garage door bottom edge weather stripping from Home Depot for $12.

    IMG_0212.thumb.JPG.27f006a552f7272b35bb8b2c37be7451.JPG Used a knife to remove both vertical edges to end up with a flat rubber strip.


    I bent strips of 2" wide sheet metal to create a "S" shaped clip to hold the deflector on the fender support.   As I was making the clips, I could adjust the holding tension of the clips by adjusting their gaps.



    Fender upper side deflector installed.



    IMG_0215.thumb.JPG.0dc705d5997f5d0834c203c24de1d1db.JPG Closeup view of clips

    Note- The clips edges are bent up slightly to prevent sharp edge from cutting the rubber deflector.


      I ordered a set of Dimple Dies consisting of sizes from 1/2", 5/8", 3/4" and 1".   Using these dies make flat sheet metal a lot stronger and looks "real cool" too.   The 240z uses this type of metal forming on its inside rocker panels ,strut supports,etc.



    First, thing to do, is drill a pilot hole in the sheet metal.  In this case,  the 1/2" Dimple die requires 5/16" pilot hole.



    Next,  assemble the Cutter blade and bottom die with the 10MM head bolt.

    IMG_0442.thumb.JPG.f24ea27b1af69e6e5b5b21372b2b315d.JPG  As you tighten the bolt, the Cutter blade also turns and cuts a hole into the sheet metal.

    Continue to tighten the bolt until the Cutter cuts through the sheet metal.


    Once, the 1/2" hole is made, you reassemble the forming die with the bottom die.

    IMG_0443.thumb.JPG.91b6453e1ff09859f4d46b74cea3f7f7.JPG Tighten down the Forming Die until it

    is flush with the surface of the sheet metal.


    Disassemble the tool and inspect the Dimple Form.  If it's not formed enough, reassemble the die and tighten it down more.


    IMG_0446.thumb.JPG.19484103fb938de06b55e7dfaafe1872.JPG Bottom View


    IMG_0447.thumb.JPG.c16e414640ff9fd0a4b64bed1c00361b.JPG   Side View of the finished !/2" Dimple.


    I will probably use the Dimple Dies to create some support brackets in the interior and maybe construct a Triangular Engine Compartment Support with them.


  21. Ebay has a lot of portable China Spray booths that run from $1000 to $2000.  Most are a little more than inflatable bounce things.

    The one at the SEMA is manufactured in Texas by Mobile Environmental Solutions.   Single booth 23' x15' was $9995.00 and twin booth 23' x 48' was $19995.   They seem to be made of material similar to those auto paint shop curtains that divide up shop areas.   According to them, the booth is made of materials that pass NFPA (National Fire Protection Association)701 test methods 1 &2.  TV's Garage Squad show  is shown using their booths.   But I would check with your local fire department 

    first before purchasing one.




    • Like 1
  22.   Just returned from the Sema Show 2019.   The Sema Show gets bigger and bigger every year.





    This 240z took part in the Optima Ultimate Street Car event.  It had a Webber carbs and slightly  modified suspension.



    IMG_0285.thumb.JPG.a6c0202a2333f713f8696d2013c63fc4.JPG        IMG_0284.thumb.JPG.891c3a25101771533ee663eca3e30eee.JPG

    Early Datsun Roadster with a Honda twin cam motor conversion with fender flares.


    IMG_0283.thumb.JPG.1b74e4eea8fa945f4d862eeb7fc23b00.JPG  Four passenger dune buggy


    IMG_0286.thumb.JPG.e5c75fa031d30c1ac67b4970d8bff3e6.JPG A  240Z racer with carbon fiber body parts.


    IMG_0287.thumb.JPG.ba8207a3df0affc778afe6fd7787a6b6.JPG  Powered with a 

    Chevy LS motor.


    IMG_0266.thumb.JPG.f93faf99fd4a38e282168a9adc911eef.JPG With this kit, you can pull dents without grinding your paint -Glue Dent Repair Kit for $600.


    IMG_0267.thumb.JPG.97cf57ea27be77f5a3b2baf07c65833e.JPG  Water jet Cutting Machine-Note the cutout samples on the table.



    The very popular John Force 300mph Funny Car


     I had Lunch at one of the many Sema Food Trucks.

    IMG_0277.thumb.JPG.d3e94298cf123db16935e80c1792b265.JPG the long line of customers

    IMG_0278.thumb.JPG.d4a36d3ae78bc5faabedb6b660eca7bc.JPG Spicy Ribeye steak with rice for $12.  Ymmmm!


    1970 replica of Pete Brock's Datsun 510


    1482079989_IMG_0328(1).thumb.JPG.a8304725d554f5fb57d55a77c4d895e7.JPG The spec sheet of the 510.


    Harbor Freight introduced their new tool line.




    Their lifetime ICON tool box costs $10,000 but remember Harbor Freight usually has 20% discount coupons at their stores.   The box was 

    very well made and about half the price of a Snap On similar one.

    329734549_IMG_0298(1).thumb.JPG.4458c14bb1e786801a1cc931312a9440.JPG Also had ratchets,sockets, wrenches,etc.


    IMG_0301.thumb.JPG.87479dcb97da941dae3b658fceb52e33.JPG Their line of tool carts.


    IMG_0303.thumb.JPG.05cd7b427656c65f33f3b1740dffdce2.JPG  Their MIG and TIG welders were low priced too.


    Their Full Function Scanner with Blue Tooth was only $999  perfect of the Do It Yourselfer.



    IMG_0305.thumb.JPG.2c082539ee147a294e2a476ff06be722.JPG Floor jacks and jack stands


    1521541274_IMG_0329(1).thumb.JPG.2d4a229d6fe82c7c7a38d528cf43b439.JPG  Beautiful Old Datsun Roaster 

    469783358_IMG_0330(1).thumb.JPG.61c7c817e70295d0d876ea9dbf3e6173.JPG With a late model Nissan Twin Cam motor.

    IMG_0308.thumb.JPG.6d615f2524b3bdbeb6c89370a6f8ba3d.JPG Mobile Spray Paint Booth



    Had fresh air intake and exhaust filter system for $20,000 for average size booth,


    A neat Rat Rod '59 Chevy El Camino with supercharged motor

    IMG_0314.thumb.JPG.f358559fab155910f070a619bb9f986d.JPG  Super Low!!


    IMG_0315.thumb.JPG.63f3c2e33663d113d480041a6d07c24b.JPG  Chopped and Shortened


    This booth has all sorts of Illuminated Car Signs.



    IMG_0321.thumb.JPG.3c83f626d28dc6ecf3cdb8caac4862cc.JPG  Toyota Nascar race car


    IMG_0320.thumb.JPG.e947ba90f1457f8e70dfed66b07dc2c8.JPG  2020 Toyota Supra

    IMG_0316.thumb.JPG.413e107960635615e2e12ac7db0e0a5e.JPG  370Z with carbon fiber parts

    IMG_0293.thumb.JPG.648578b768e5ff51b81abcdda4d0f910.JPG  NISSAN NISMO Skyline All Wheel Drive


    IMG_0294.thumb.JPG.7edbf16e1775f98d36d43980ceae7eea.JPG Front view


    IMG_0318.thumb.JPG.95d4037d0cf1268b3cc8f9ea04ebc4d1.JPG  Full Functional Race Car Simulator at Supra booth



    IMG_0333.thumb.JPG.b85bde8afd05f402116f5500de244e05.JPG  Beautiful Honda Z50 Mini Bike


    1733963424_IMG_0334(1).thumb.JPG.3f848383a1238bdd4135a95290819bc6.JPG Another Honda 50cc Monkey bike


    1095394930_IMG_0339(1).thumb.JPG.911b5f9e693824866c69c1cf41d82565.JPG A Wild 65 Ford Van with supercharged motor.

    2108763011_IMG_0340(1).thumb.JPG.bf6448c7d2302d16845183df974ce4b6.JPG Supercharged motor with long headers


    IMG_0335.thumb.JPG.c4f21d9b39f62f13947c692b7d0d877d.JPG Old Honda S80 with flares


    JooTool is a specialized small polisher for restoring small car parts.  IMG_0348.thumb.JPG.8bae06e90e713449f0e4d838f69482f0.JPG Also, sharpens knives.

    3M provides various grinding, sanding and polishing discs for this machine.



    IMG_0352.thumb.JPG.997ee3c33763f88a1ab0c6915a105942.JPGOutside the halls, more booths and cars


    This van had Four Wheel Track drive so it could go almost everywhere.



    Robot sanding machine made by PRO SPOT.  Even had vacuum system to catch the bondo dust.



    Plastic welding machine with Nitrogen gas to create strong plastic welds

    IMG_0276.thumb.JPG.c89a8409808b1554a0db0f9824396c59.JPG  plastic welding made by urethane Supply.


    IMG_0355.thumb.JPG.0c135cb18c1457037fbd451466ce4210.JPG more cars & people


    Ford Mustang one wild ride with tire burning etc.



    IMG_0376.thumb.JPG.89c170375e0691c9770089f499654e7c.JPG  More trucks


    Monster trucks,too



      IMG_0382.thumb.JPG.c4da90373dea94b3e8e53d31e7eff2d9.JPG Its motor and suspension huge too.


    Hurst Hemi under Glass Barracuda was there too.



    Skelton car



    IMG_0384.thumb.JPG.6a104aee45f646e371be78d39ce7ed0c.JPG  its supercharged motor


    High and Might truck 4 x 4 



    James Dean Replica Porsche covertible


    Hoogan Pit area and Burn Yard





    Hoogan put on a Wild Tire Burnout Show but I missed it as I thought it was over.   When I was on the top of the Monorail

    Platform, the Burn Out Show happened.  But if you want to see the Show go to:  

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NAzAI8pxyLs   Hoogan guys did a preshow walk through and did crazy Burnouts and Drifting there!!!!

          Now, Back to working on my 240Z



  23.    Back home to get working on the Z.

    IMG_0145.thumb.JPG.1981f934a72132ae964e833af4d2a71a.JPG  From Epoxy Primer to Body Filler.


    Body Filler used to cover minor imperfections.

    1239047732_IMG_0144(1).thumb.JPG.a328f297e395aa5d251677700ca99dc9.JPG Sanding Body Filler


    Then paining Polyurethane Primer Sealer on top of that bodywork.



    Not to forget the inside of the front fenders,  the sealing of them was next thing to do.

    The wheel well deflector plate stripped and painted.   I decided to use rubber weather stripping.  I found 3M "D" shaped weather stripping on

    Ebay for $13 for 8 feet.

    1725099736_IMG_0149(1).thumb.JPG.b8124574643f1f0a257e140adb01ac7b.JPG  The hollow inside made very soft and

    a good weather stripping for the wheel well.

    IMG_0153.thumb.JPG.3dfe21b544edde1e428d9535d11a9b93.JPG  front view


    IMG_0157.thumb.JPG.6faf1d032ee27b3b4e8c3db30093480c.JPG back view


    Previously I had planned to use Dynamat or similar foil type of insulation for the floor and roof.   However, I decided to use Lizard Skin Ceramic Insulation paint.   It can lower the interior temperature 20 to 30 degrees. One gallon costs $100 on Amazon.  They also sell sound insulation paint(costs $100 gal) but it must be applied first(before heat insulation).



    Had planned to spray it on with a Schulz under coating gun but the coating was too thick for the gun.  So I used rollers and a brush to

    apply it.   A cordless drill was utilized to stir the paint.   Use low speed and in Reverse so the particles are not damaged while mixing.

    Application was done in two .020 coats allowing the first coat to dry to the touch.   Curing will take possible a week to completely cure  depending on weather conditions.




    All holes must be masked off to prevent over spray.

    IMG_0169.thumb.JPG.8ece892e87d6afac1726db6984ec0ecf.JPG  Areas to be painted are scuff sanded and all threaded holes are plugged.


    IMG_0195.thumb.JPG.2e8eb62aa503e87f386d271ef6dca81a.JPG After painting


    Ceramic Coating was not difficult to apply.   Cleanup should be done quickly as the insulation dries relatively fast.


    IMG_0191.thumb.JPG.2f95007819d0d2ecd0451a293d9e4f40.JPG  Pic of roof coated


    IMG_0194.thumb.JPG.0add3d0203fff10975030c284ca29e41.JPG Pic of seat area


    IMG_0193.thumb.JPG.7bda7646c88968d36530d4efcc0453ec.JPG  Passenger side compartment


    After the Ceramic Insulation is cured, I will probably top coat it with Polyurethane White Single Stage Paint for added protection.



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