Dp351zcar

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I know the rods can go anywhere. When I said that the rod goes on one way what I meant was that the bearing is offset in the bigend of the rod. There is a little bit of the bigend that is not covered by the bearing and I have found that if that side does not go towards the radius of the crank rod journal the two rods won't fit on the journal. Or that is the way it was for my H- beam rods on my 351, I haven't tried it on the 302. What I was wondering is if the pin can be pressed out and installed with out damaging it. The reason I am asking this is the shop that did this closed and with my job it is hard to get out to any other shops.

I am putting together a 74 302 and I had the pistons put on the rods a couple weeks ago. The rods go on the crank one way, and when I put the short block together I had seven pistons with arrows pointing to the front and the one in my hand would point to the rear. My question is can the pin be pressed out and in again without any damage being done to the assembly? Can I assemble the engine with one arrow backwards? I don't know if pistons have a offset pin or why a arrow would be there as they have the four valve reliefs so the could be used in eather side. They are just cheap cast pistons but if it's going to be put together I want to do it right. DP

What are they? I have never seen or heard of them before.

Ross that $300 is tempting.

What is wrong with putting 2.5" angle on top of the frame rail and stich welding it on top and the side. A 2.5" piece of angle when pushed up aginst the frame rail, comes about 1/8" from the wheelwell. If you did this and then welded or bolted the engine mount to the angle and the frame there shouldn't be any sag, should there? You could connect these angles to a sub frame by 1/4 plate on the sides where it goes from the frame rail down to the sub frame. I think I might try this but I won't run the angle any further forward than the sway bar mounts, to give it some crush area. It's an idea I have thought about and am tring to figure out why it wouldn't. DP

what I tried was to use a blowtorch to get a thick puttyknife hot and it seemed to cut through pretty good, until the knife got cool. Don't know of any tool that has a hot blade but if there is it should work. I think that there is not just one way to get it all off, it will take a combination of ways to get it off one car. DP

What I have heard is that they are close in what they can handle but they take a diffrent pilot bearing. The turbo uses a smaller end (pilot shaft)on the input shaft but the shaft has the same splines as the v8. The gear ratio is the main thing that is changed, the 4cyl uses 4.? first gear. I was told that if you use a 4cyl tranny in a V8 you have to use the correct pilot bearing or it will go boom. Hanlon motorsports has them 610 469 2695

the link didn't work so here is another try. web page

Go here and see the basic way. http://datsun.getyours.com/v8/ford_302/ford_302.htm or usr the search function for ford mounts or stuff.

Yes it does but its a long way off. I think I have most of the parts so now I have to do the work. I think I bit off too much to chew. I am doing the whole car in one shot and not doing it in stages. I emailed you from this site and it returned as undeliverable so I noticed the @home and figure thats the problem hope my second try got through. Don

A idea I had is can a solid rear end be put in without backhaving? I know that it would need torque boxes and link hookups but the idea I had is a solid axle could be taken out with taking out four bolts and undoing the brakes. The IRS can be taken out as a unit also. Could a Z be built that would be able to be switched back and forth depending on the event that is going to be run? I would like to have my cake and eat it to. To bad I can't convince my wife to let me have a girlfriend Just a thought. Don

Hey gbvol54 if you ever see that bug (just a little more power, bug) flying around, slap it down before it bites you! If you have a bit more power what do you do with it and how do you get it to the ground? You end up spending way more money than you intended to. You need the power train, suspension, wheels and tires, and brakes. Oh and that's is not including that takes to keep your doors and hood so they line up and close correctly. Just some thoughts from someone is half way down that road now. Don

Talking about heads for a ford. I think a good set are made by canfield.

The reason I have not posted yet is I don't have anything to tell yet. Soon I hope. I don't have a web site so I can't post any pics but I will answer any questions anybody has. The state my car is in I can't take anything more out of it, it's all gone. In fact I can stand in the spare tire well and suprise, my feet are still on the ground, the well is gone. I can pick up the front or rear of my car with very little strain on my part, its that light. Give me a couple of weeks and I will hopefully have my engine mounts made and I can email the pics or drawings. I am tring to do something my way. I am doing a lot of this I think the ford guys are like me, they don't want to do something everybody else has done already over and over. Plus there good reasons to go ford, and the weight of them is a good start. Don (a first time ford guy)

A pontiac 400 is a motor with a lot of torque so I would think that a auto might be a better tranny to go with in such a light car. You are the one that has to be pleased with what is in it so put in which ever you want. I just think that an auto would be easer on the drive train and have more control with the torque those motors produce. Don (ex tripower GTO owener)

Great detail, it shows how little I know. Don

Yes I think the ford 302 would be the way to go. I have heard a stock motor will get close to the 12's and the weight and the smoothness of stock power would be good for autox.

I'd like to know also as I am at that stage now. Don

To me a Rice car is a newer little car that is covered with parts to make it look cool, but that don't do anything to make it go. Also alot what a ricer is the attitude of the driver the style they use. It is where "show" is the important part. Just the thoughts of a over 40 guy that remembers when muscle cars were two tons of steel, over cammed and they handled so bad that they had to slow to make a lane change. Don

Is you z powered by a 455? If it is please post some pictures of it, post some even its not it's good to see other z's. Don

My 71 has been sitting for 16 years and is now stripped. Is there anyplace I can get the rubber trim for the doors and hatch? The old stuff has just crumbled to pieces and was no good when I pulled it off. MSA seems too expensive. Don

Or maybe what I sould have said is can I do away with the heater. How much does the floor heat up, enough to make the car comfy on a spring-summer day? I am going to seal all the holes in the floor and the fire wall I can to keep out noise and odors off the engine. Don

Well my car is stripped, everything is gone except the doors. I was wondering how much heat a V8 with dual exhausts put in to the passenger compartment. Can I leave the heavy heater out of the car to save some weight? The car will not be a daily driver and I hope it never sees the rain, it will never see snow or an icy road. I can pick up the body off the jack stands and I know I will hate to add the weight as I put it back together. Don

From what little I know, I think all the timing covers mount the same but they are diffrent in the ways already posted. I think there is one more and that is the later ones had a reverse flow waterpump. They were the ones with a serpentine belt, I think. Don