naviathan

Not necessarily. Personally I prefer women with a more athletic build, which is funny because my wife is far from that, but she's also the first woman I ever dated that had more than a handful. Most guys, believe it or not, are less concerned with breast size than women seem to think. My ex-wife barely fit a B cup.

Ok, love the back and forth, but the punch line was a bit 5th grade level.

Do you have a ground strap between the chassis and the motor? I've seen a few issues caused by bad/no ground between the engine and chassis. Also look at the components in your EFI setup. A bad sensor/injector/IAC etc. can cause a heavy power draw at certain points that the MS can't compensate for.

well that depends. On an automotive forum of any kind women are bit of a rarity. So if you want a lot of attention to your questions then yes, make it aparent in the title that you are a female and you will get all the attention and replies you want. Want even more, add a self pic.

By fuse box do you mean screw in fuses or are you talking about a breaker box?

Post a log of the attempted cranking process.

Sounds good to me. I've never been one to turn down barley and hops! Again I'm just glad it worked out well in the end.

We'll keep her in our prayers. Let us know what happens.

You make me want to drive out to Ashville right now. That is an absolutely beautiful resto.

Only if that nurse is available for the "milking" process.

I'm just glad I could help. It was looking pretty bad for a bit there and I was starting to wonder if I would be able to pull it off, but all turned out well. You will have your MS back next week. Thanks for your patience through all this.

Done! She's loaded, verified and ready to run.

Ok, long series of events here. I was almost going to give up on this thing. First, after removing the proc I found more broken traces on the board. Frustrating....very frustrating.. I replaced the traces with pieces of wire strand (carefully with tweezers). Once that was done I installed a 40 pin socket for the CPU, repaired a broken pin on the CPU and replaced U4 and D19. I put the proc in my MS box and fired it up on the stim. Everything looked good. I put it back in the original box, firred it up and everything looked the same. The only thing I didn't like were that the warm up and accel enrichment LEDs didn't seem to work right. Right now I'm trying to upload new firmware to it and see if I can get it configured and working properly in MegaTune. Wish me luck.

It's not recommended to re-use head bolts. I'd just get a new set of ARP studs and clean everything up and torque them properly.

Search the forums. There's a few good injector dealers out there. I remember one that sold rebuilt injectors for extremely cheap, but I can't remember the website off the top of my head. Anyhow, do a search on here for "new injectors" or "rebuilt injectors" and I'm sure you'll get some good hits.

Yeah those are pintle caps. I like the way you're thinking; A nice clean rail with newer style injectors but the stock EFI system. Let us know how it goes and post some pics.

How did you snap an ARP stud????

deja, GM uses the same 1156 and 1157 style bulbs as datsun did in their tail lights and turn signals. The only bulbs that were different (IIRC) are the Datsun marker lights.

I believe they're actually 19lb/hr injectors if memory serves. What are you needing the specs for? Going after market?

I'll second a wood wedge. I've used the MSA tool and it slipped while removing the head. I cut a piece of 2x4 into a wedge shape that fit between the guides, split it in two halves because it was too wide and put a hole in it for a string. With that I just tap it lightly in place between the chain before removing the sprocket and I've never had it fall through again.

I would imagine if you get the paint off a pressure washer should be able to blast bondo away fairly easily. I know my pressure washer will strip paint off concrete and bricks, but it won't take automotive paint off the side of a car unless it's really old and worn out. Even then I don't think it would cut the primer. Besides I don't think you want to blast water into every crevice of your car unless you have a way to bake it and dry all the water up fairly quick.

Run an engine flush through it if you're concerned about the hydrolic lifters. It should clean things up fairly well without having to pull a bolt.

It shouldn't be leaking from there, but get the PCV system hooked up right and see if it continues to leak.

I'm 28 now, but I got my first Z in high school when I was 17. My father knew I needed another vehicle (sent my 65 chevy C10 end over end down a ditch). So he took me down to this sheister car lot and blew the sales guy off, walked me over to the side lot where the kept the "cars we just want gone". Of the 4 cars there the only viable options were a 1983 Toyota Celica GT with a 20R 4 cylinder and a black 1981 280ZX coupe automatic. I drove the Celica and it felt like it was too large and under powered. Drove the Z and it felt nimble, but a bit weak. Decided the Z was better looking and I could work on the weak part. $1000 off the lot and I was hooked on Z cars from then on out.

I have to wonder if this MS unit has ever worked properly. The amount of damage I've seen on this board suggests it's had problems from assembly on.