naviathan

When using FWD rims on a Z the rim center coupled with the necessary spacers to fit pushes the weight placement out away from the hub. If you think about leverage, when we make our pry bar longer we create more force without increasing pressure. Ergo when we make our hub longer with a spacer we're creating more force on the bearings and the studs which can (no one is saying it absolutely will) cause more wear and shearing force on said components. Some people just prefer not to run that risk.

....Wow....I tink I was just becum dumber by dis.... :shock::shock::shock: AHHHHHHH! Ok I'm better now. That hurts....

I think we've all done it at one time or another. Very embarrassing.

I would go with the KA24 on MS2.

This might sound obvious, but you never know...Have you removed the shifter?

The Z might not be the best car for "hypermiling", but I don't think it has anything to do with the aerodynamics. Sure the aerodynamics aren't the best, but they're adequate enough for 65mph. The problem I see is the gear ratios. Especially with the automatics. My Fairlady automatic runs over 3k RPMs at 60mph. I couldn't see trying to stretch it out on the highway to 80mph. I wish I could find a higher gear rear end or another transmission (automatic, the wife drives it too) to lower RPMs. I'd prefer something like the diff that was on the forums recently. I just can't see spending the money and I don't need LSD. I'm not concerned with performance in that car, just looks.

Sounds like it's breathing. Every ZX I've owned has done that. It could be bad throttle body seals/bushings, a slight leak in the AAC/EGR, a leaky injector is very possible. You never know.

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Very nice throat...

Yeah for all 2.3 extra mpg I'd rather have fun when I drive. I bought the wife a 2004 Suzuki Forenza for a good gas mileage little mommy car. We got 27.5mpg on the first tank and that wasn't babying the car. And it needs a MAP sensor. Gotta go pick one up from the dealer...Damned Suzuki, everything is dealer only except the O2?!?! Anyhow, for $5500 I can play with my Zs and my Ranger and still have the wife's for good gas mileage.

Nothing honestly. I'm not sure what you consider fast and quick, but the only way to wake up that motor is to throw on a turbo or a big cam or both.

Nah, he's just rich and full of himself. Looks much shorter than I expected...

Wheel adapters are used quite often on Z cars because of the offset issues. I won't say it's safe though. I've read about problems with studs snapping and wheels coming off and therefore I'll never try it myself.

Interesting, any pictures? Model Numbers/Tag Numbers? Gotta give us something to go on...

That's messed up. Too bad the pics are so bad. Looks like a really high ISO, but with a phone cam there's no telling. This is going to sound like Corporate America's get rich quick scam but....Sue him! HAHA bet you could get a lot of money without even trying.

The Zs usually don't like platinum plugs and run much better on the stock. As for a newer auto, I don't think they'll really make any real difference. What they claim and what they do is usually two different things. I would stick with stock plugs and save your money by not buying unnecessarily expensive parts.

The other thing I didn't think of is vacuum. When you're accelerating the vacuum drops which will cause vents to change position and might make it seem like it's blowing more or less. These old vents are all vacuum controlled so that could be part of it.

BTW, if your Z is stock, there's no way you're doing a quarter mile in 10 seconds or less.

If it is vapor lock then the car should have started once everything cooled down. Get a FSM from http://carfiche.com and do the tests for the ignition system. Also check out Blue's Tech Tips for the EFI bible and some other good info. Check fuel pressure, spark, timing, injectors, fuel pump, etc... There's many things that need to be checked that you haven't yet. The L series engine is actually a very very reliable engine so long as it's well taken care of. Also, this should be under the S30 forum, not the non tech board.

Sounds like it could be the switch. If the contacts inside are loose they could be randomly making contact to the next level up. If it's not that, then I suppose the fan could be worn out or (less likely) you're getting voltage spikes from a failing regulator in your alt. Keep and eye on the voltage gauge when it does it.

So how did the tire come off? Glad to hear you're ok, that really sucks.

MS has cold start settings, but without some sort of cold start valve to increase air intake during warm up the settings will just make your car run pig rich on warm up which will make it take longer to get to operating temps. You need a valve, but the cold start injector isn't necessary as MS will increase the fuel during warm up on it's own. Now for cold start valves you can use the stock which is nothing more than a bimetal heater that closes a large "vacuum leak" as the car warms up, or you can use a GM style idle air controller with one of the various bodies available on the market. There's lots of options out there, it's all dependent on what you want to do.

Check fusible links and yes vapor lock is a possibility. Just because you're getting spark doesn't mean you're getting enough spark. Check it all out. Good luck.

What about the pic of Vin sitting on the Z? I'd love to see that. He claimed to be a motor head in real life, anyone try to find out?

The air regulators are nothing more than a heating element that expands a bimetal contact that closes the air opening. On a cold day it probably will take a lot longer for the regulator to close up. The O2 shouldn't kick on until after the 5 minute (roughly) warm up process completes.