naviathan

I've heard of people running a supercharger or turbo on an L31 stroker. If you go with the P90A on KA24 pistons and a 2mm head gasket you should have plenty of room for forced induction. You can have pistons shaved down the fluch with the block also, if you'r really concerned with it.

We'll answer your questions don't worry. If the chain starts to slack on #2 replace it. You'll know it's slack because you'll be able to hear it when the engine is running.

Hmm, odd I always heard it was to increase pressure and hold a little oil in there when shutdown. Oh well, go with the turbo pros, I'm better with NA applications.

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Oil Level dropping any?

typically 500mi under 3500rpm

If he caused it to ping/detonate, yes he could have damamged the rings.

And the reason being for that was the engine was never broke-in in the first place. His is broken in already.

You'll have to re-set the timing obviously, but no the setting wouldn't be any different because we believe it was an attempt to compensate for chain wear. Number three is just way to far advance for chain wear though. If it's that bad off then you need to put a new chain kit in quick.

Sounds like it's time for a refresh no matter which engine you use.

A well tuned stock Z has lots of get up and go. My 81ZX NA hasn't let me down and it pulls strong from 0-110. One of the first things most people do on a turbo is the 240SX throttle body upgrade, intercooler and 2 1/2"-3" exhaust. The 240SX throttle body doesn't help HP, but it makes the engine a little more rev happy and responsive. All these upgrades are easily found with plenty of back up information if you search on here and zcar.com.

Download the manual at http://www.carfiche.com. You can also use the microfiche there to look up parts and I believe there is some electrical diagrams there as well. EDIT: The closest manual on the site for you is the 77.

Your vacuum advance should not be pulling at idle. It's connected to the ports on the bottom of the throttle body that only draw when the throttle plate is opened.

I would back it up the number two position and try it there. Three seems a little much for taking up slack to me.

Did you blow the engine or head gasket that prompted the rebuild? You could have oil left in the exhaust from before that's burning off.

Nice, brightened the colors up a bit. It looks good.

Where did the head come from? There is a machine shop in San jose California called CMF Machine. Could have been them.

Good point about the valve length, I forgot about that.

No it wouldn't create too much compression. You sure are getting around. The only thing I would be concerned with is the valve size, which you said over on zcar.com that you would be using valves from the ZX head which are larger. You can get some nice stainless valves from arizonazcar.com that might be better suited. But, as I said before, use an aftermarket engine management and you can tune everything to work together properly and run like a raped ape. According to the Z Calculator (which isn't entirely accurate, but gives a round about number) the resulting compression ratio would be 8.28:1, which is more than manageable. You go with flat top pistons and it's up to 9.8:1 which is getting more into the high octane area and watching clearances very carefully. BTW, welcome to hybridz.org and zcar.com. Never did give you a proper welcome over there either.

That's a sweet deal, but I drive this car everyday and really need that over drive for gas mileage.

Well, actually the tranny wasn't well when it went in, but I wasn't aware of that until after I got it on the road. It at least shifted and moved which was more than my last tranny. Anyhow, this one is about to go, the main bearing is screaming in 1-3. Is there anyone in Eastern NC or close by that has a 280ZX 5 speed they would be willing to part with? Thanks.

Oops...Yeah that was suppose to be 18-22 in. Sorry about that.

I would talk to pallnet on zcar.com. He has some nice studs for the intake and exhaust. I used them on my ZX when I did the manifold gasket. They worked perfectly and came with brass nuts so they don't rust.

On the 240z there shouldn't be any smog stuff to pull off. I believe they were brought out before the smog regulations. For the exhaust stick with some 2 1/4 or 2 1/2" pipe. You have a naturally aspirated (N/A) engine that is going to need some back pressure to run properly. If the car runs good then I would start with rust removal and prevention.

I can check for a brand on the Arizona ones, but I don't know off the top of my head. I have a full set at home.