naviathan

I see what you're you're saying. Although a single throttle body feeding equal length runners is a great thought, it's usually not feasable. If you center the throttle body then the two center runners end up curved to maintain length which can slow the air flow to those two cylinders, but at the same time a straight runner would cause the air flow to be faster to those two runners as they would be shorter. Now of course there is a happy medium in there somewhere, but from a mass production point of view it's much simpler to feed all 6 runners from a plenum with a single throttle body. A plenum setup also allows for easier setup of emissions controls, vacuum lines for accessories, PCV circulation, etc...etc... you get the idea. If you check out the ITB setups on here they are much more like what you're thinking. Usually double or tripple bodies feeding 3 or 2 cylinders per. This is more for a performance setup and requires a balance tube and seperate vacuum tank for feeding accessories, but very little allowable for emissions. I hope this helps.

Check the plug color. Sounds like you're running too lean.

Maybe it's just the Cali spec models that have it.

A heat gun would help. Don't burn just warm it up till it forms.

What he's talking about is swapping the vent line that goes to the charcoal canister with the return, which should actually work.

Really? Was it scored really bad? I've never heard of a pilot bushing making noise like that.

Bingo, it'sa 240, the fuel return lines are too small for EFI. If you have 75+ Z you can pull the steel fuel lines and swap.

I would say $150-$250. Are the carbs rebuilt? If not go to the low end if so go to the high end.

That could very well be. .75mm is .030in over bore. That would be about right for what you're looking at. Go for it and let me know how it works out.

In order to create a venturi effect you would have to start wide and go small which would compress the air. In this case he's starting small and going wide which wouldn't do much of anything. The sudden expansion of the air right before the head could cause he air fuel to atomize a little better, but otherwise it's not going to do much. Wonder if you could take a honing attachment that can reach into the intake and try honing it wider up by the plenum?

You'll be hard pressed to find .026 over rings. You can try the .020 over and see if they're still within spec. My recommendation would be to find a more common diameter piston and bore the block to match.

If you install all 5 of the front shims and only 4 of the rest per tower you'll end up with .075 on the front and .080 on the rest. I still don't think that's right, but at least you'll only be off .050 in the front and still have an .080 lift on the rest to compensate the .080 shave on the head.

That's odd. They're both part numbers, but to different engines. Unless they're both the same size even though they're different blocks.

Yeah, 88mm would have to be custom, but you can find KA24 piston in 89mm all over eBay.

Do all of them have N8601 and N8600? N8600 is an l28e piston and n8601 is an RB30 piston.

I have an IDEA, have you searched eBay? I'm confused, your subject says 240Z rods? Are you doing a stroker L30? If so you're looking for 89mm pistons and 240Z rods, preferably the 9mm rods (9mm denotes the bolt size). Can you clarify the setup you're shooting for please?

Given the measurements you'r talking about it looks like it a .026 overbore with flat top pistons. I'm not sure baout those bore sizes. 86mm (metric size of the cylinder) converts to 3.3884", which is only slightly higher than what the book says, but that would also leave the pistons too large for a stock bore, but barely. The might be after market flat tops meant for an overbore. Of course they could even be advance auto parts specials which means you're still looking at a shooting match as to what they really are. Are there any marking on the pistons? Casting numbers, manufacturers initial, part number? Anything? You're not dealing with stock, but that doens't mean it's performance either.

Don't vent your PCV... I'll never understand why people do that. The PCV is drawing noxious and acidic gases out of the crankcase that can eat away at components and contaminate oil. It's actually a very good thing to have, not just an emissions piece as some think it is.

Sounds interesting enough, but won't 50mm be a bit large for a single cylinder. I mean sure the more air the better, but there is a big difference between what a cylinder can suck in and what it SHOULD suck in. Not to mention, you'll need some sort of vacuum. You get too big like that and you're looking at 0 vacuum pull in the runner which can cause the fuel to not atomize properly, yada yada...Ok I'm done. Just think though, my Top End Performance setup uses tripple throttle bodies at 45mm each, that's only 22.5mm per cylinder...esentially, but the cylinders pull at different time meaning they should be allowed the full 45mm, but then there's valve over lap between that could...yeah I'm going a little to indepth in this right now. Anyhow, good luck with it, but I'm a little too strapped at the moment to get in on the deal.

Makes me wonder if they're also more proned to clutch chatter if that's the case.

To find out how much the PO shaved off he had to shim the cam towers to keep the timing chain tight. Check the height of the shims and that should give a good idea of what was shaved.

What language is that? Seems like gibberish mixed with English.

Ummm, I don't think that was the intended point. So by not using it you'll allow cabon to build up on the throttle plate eventually leading to throttle sticking. Are you sure you don't want to use it? Is this a daily driver car? I would use it given the above statements.

All the same.

Port matching intake, throttle body spacer and turbo AFM. The overall advantage to all this work is a happy to rev engine, but no HP or torque gains. If you intend to do further upgrades down the road this might be a good inexpensive one to start with as anything else will only help it along the way.