gregkring

12 years ago when I built it this was pretty unique. Chevy injectors, ford throttle body, buick cam and crank sensors for sequential injection and distributorless ignition.

More info please. Which Mopar yoke?

NHRA rule is that all power has to be cut when the switch is thrown. The switch should be as close to the battery as possible (which will also have to be in the rear of the car since that is where the switch has to be). You can not get power from the cold side of the switch once it is thrown. of course it will kill the motor, but the intent of the switch is to kill all power to the car, not just kill the motor. In reality all most tracks check is if the car dies when the switch is thrown. get a switch with provisions for an alternator. If you run the alternator wire on the engine side of the switch then the car can still run off the alternator when the switch is thrown. If you run the alternator wire on the battery side then the car will die, but the alternator wire will still be "hot". best bet is to get a relay that allows the power to be cut and the alternator power to be cut as well. Also for NHRA you have to have a cutoff anytime the battery is moved OR you run faster than 10.99. Greg Kring 71 240ZT

I don't know much about those cars, but from the prices I see I gather you are expecting to get $40K for your car? Is that realistic? I haven't seen many Z's change hand over $15,000 even for orignal cars where the market is bigger to pay for originality. Then again who knows what the custom market is? I have been out of the z market awhile, so I am not trying to break your balls. just wondering if there really is a market for $30K plus custom z's?

we would double pin them using a smaller roll pin inside the larger one, or a nail or dowel pin in a pich. Never broke the fork casting, but we would shear the roll pins. This was in a 240Z with a 4 speed and 250 shot of nitrous. Horsepower wouldn't do it, but aggressive shifting trying to get into the 10's would.

I used a stewart warner tach and kept the turn signals in the tach using LED lights. I also added a shift light right in the middle bottom of the tach as well. Works great and looks stock, but with an updated performance.

www.allzcar.com You may still have to have one shipped in. The cars are plentiful around here, just depends on what condition you are looking for. Early rust free cars are obviously going to be harder to get. If you are going to totally customize it then a worn driver condition 280z can be had well under $5K for a relatively rust free starting point.

Problast in Dallas does all my media blasting. Z car and convertible challenger. Priced right and I recommend them. Do you come to dallas often to make the trips worth it? Truck trailer and gas could wipe out any savings real quick in travel time and expense. http://www.problastdallas.com

I agree, the height you gain with the 12 ton you totally give up in floor space because of the huge base. 6 ton should be plenty. For the most part I got away with just putting the car on skates during my whole resto. What are you trying to do that you need the car that high up?

sent you a PM on the bumper rubber Greg Kring

Another vote for WOT switch for an auto car. Looks liek your car has been converted to a stick. Future location for the NOS switch. Also like Ron said, remove your pedal and bend that rod over an inch in a vise so the cable lines up correctly. Greg Kring 71 Series 1 L6 turbo

Not really a welding issue or even a fabrication issue, but yes! very simple bucks down aproach. Available any and all hours of the night versus a MSD that could leave you stranded with no solution on a weekend. Once had a mallory HyFire die on the racecar on aFriday night after qualifications. Found an all night autostore and was ready for eliminations on Saturday morning! Greg Kring

You could use everything in that "kit' but you would also need alot more. really the only thing you are getting is a manifold and a broken turbo. The turbo should be rebalanced when you replace the broken compressor wheel. That stock 280zx downpipe is prety poor, but okay for a budget rebuild. The fact that you are asking if this is all you needs tells me if you try to do this without getting some help from someone who understands turbo you will blow up your motor. Read through as many threads as you can to get a better understanding. Being in El Segundo there are tons of local Z car guys who can help you out. Find a local club and start hanging out with them. Greg Kring 71 240zt

According to the ad he has the original steering wheel along with most other parts short of the tires and battery. Still don't think it is worth that much right now, but who's to say it won't be worth much more in a few years. There is no duplicating an original low mileage car. Greg Kring 71 240ZT

Yep, the silver one is mine. The first pic with the A/C is a customers car I did recently. Don't get around here much, but I check in every once in awhile. I used what is currently called a FAST system. WWW.fuelairspark.com. It was still owned and called Fel-pro when I bought it 11 years ago. Z cars have come so far in the past 5 years. I had to have custom halfshafts made when I wanted to use the 300Z limited slip with CV joints. I hade that intake made by www.force-efi.com. It was cheaper back then to custom make a manifold so i could use a standard ford throttle body and GM injectors. The money I saved from having to buy a 60 MM weber and RC 550cc injectors paid for the manifold. The radiator is a dual pass Ron Davis. It has the inlet and outlet on the same side. Greg Kring

8 cylinder or 6? Two types of 6 cylinder, one with three terminals on each side and the other has them all on one side. Looks very similar to the Electromotive style coils.

Finished up another car with a GM DIS (wastespark coilpacks) ignition and trying to get the tach to work. Using the MSD adapter and everything works fine above 1500 rpm. At idle the needle is either dead or jumpy. I spliced the tach adapter in at the ignition transistor box in the passenger footwell area. This car is a 260 z. I pulled the tach out and it just has a green wire and a black wire. The black wire has 12 volts when ignition is on. On my 240 I used a Stewart Warner tach , so no problems there. On this customer car we want to keep the stock tach, even if it is old an inaccurate. Any ideas on making it read at idle speeds? Would a 280z tach fix the problem, and what do the connections on it look like? Greg Kring

Still cruising the Buick. Still have not hit the 8 second mark. Holding steady at 9 flat and 150 trap speeds. In addition to the buick and the Z I have a 5 speed Lexus SC300 with a turbo kit waiting for it, an original 1985 Kawasaki Turbo750, and picked up a very nice 1971 Challenger for a turbo conversion. Somewhere in all that I got married as well. The Dodge has gotten sold-too many projects at once taking up funds. I am amazed at Ross Corrigans little business he has going. I remember it was only a few years ago we were trying to make the CV shafts fit correctly and I was cutting down and resplining 240sx shafts for my car. Now we have all kinds of CNC'd parts, billet stub axles, Moser axles, etc available off the shelf. Greg

I'll take it. You should have mail. Greg Kring Arlington, Texas