gregkring

Well, the panel showed up today. It shipped on Monday, the same day I ordered it. Looks like Motorsport was confused and telling me it was on backorder, meanwhile it was already on the way! I'll forgive the mistake this time since it was in my favor. I will say their customer service has always been great. I can forgive their higher prices as long as I get the delivery and service. There is good, fast, and cheap and you only get to pick two.

They supply the top panel and other pieces to motorsport, but not this piece. They offered to make one if they can get a good one to start with. I obviously don't have that much time to wait. Mine actually looks pretty good, but the paint is starting to bubble at the spot welds and I would rather replace than repair if possible. I don't want to hold up the body guy for a month waiting on this panel, however. Greg

Those are the side sills, they also sell the upper hatch sill panel, but I am looking for the lower half below the bumper mounts. Thanks for the reply

I bought one and had so much trouble trying to get it to work I gave up and put it all back to stock. Templates are terrible and you end up cutting holes to large. Good idea and will probably work great on your third or fourth install.

Well once again motorsport auto has a part on a lengthy backorder. I am looking for the rear sheetmetal repair panel below the taillights. My body guy can Fix the rust on mine, but for the money i would rather put a new one on if available. Does anybody have one or another source? http://www.thezstore.com/store/graphics/00000001/large307240.jpg

between the sound deadening and heat shield you should be able to skip the factory style jute on the tunnel? How far up the hatch area did you go and did you do the roof? I plan on doing this. if all the panels still fit then it should help cut down on all the plastic squeeks in the back. I am worried about it sticking to the roof and the headliner sticking to it here in the Texas heat. As far as added weight horsepower is easy. Most of you guys are either running turbo or V-8's. I don't think lack of HP is a factor.

What are you having to drive around while you wait on them to decide to work on your car? If you have a trusted mechanic it will always be cheaper than a dealership. Dealerships aren't there for being the best priced, they are there for convenience, accuracy, and dependability. The guy actually touching the car is who you need to be worried about, but when that goes wrong you are in better shape at a dealership than a mom and pop two man operation. Personally I work on all my own stuff and don't expect anyone to know how to work on my cars but me.

Go back a little further. Remember Preston Pratt from Arizona or the infamous Stealth Z of Steve Webb? I can go back as far as www.twinturbo.net when they had a first gen forum. Back in the dial up days around 93 or 94. There was another one, but I can't remember the name, but it finally got bought out by the autoforums.com site and it went to hell as an unmoderated site. Autoforums got better, but the Z site is long gone. We thought Derek was crazy for starting up zdriver.com, but it turned out better and is the only one of the old ones still going even though he is out of it and out of his Infiniti site as well. I guess I can remember even further back having to be on a mailing list from IZCC at www.zhome.com before the boards. Seems like any site that shows pomise now gets bought up by some bigger bulleting board company. Thankfully we have always had great Zcar clubs here in Texas before the internet made us one big happy family.

Rings would not be next to go. Your engine may be more likely 193K miles, but not too big of a deal for a Z motor. if you can get a core cheap, however why not start from scratch and build a motor you know is good.

Make it a 6 point cage. Weld in jacking points on the side as getting to that front crossmember is a pain. Also test fit and plan your tubing routes through the front radiator support so you can cut and reinforce now.

Forget finding some little known fact on Wikipedia about Z cars. There is a ton of posts here about the T5 swap, world class conversion, Gforce trans, etc. I'm predicting this thread is inches away from the tool shed.

http://www.zddplus.com/ For your reading enjoyment

I've done it on a drill press no problem. You can rent the bit from Kinsler. http://www.kinsler.com/handbook144.html

Done deal. Thanks for the tip.

synopsis newbie: Hey, I am thinking about buying a Z. If I stroke it,cam it, triple carb it, and add a blow through turbo how much power can I make. I know what I am talking about and am serious Tony D: huh?? whatever..speechless newbie: don't take that tone with me, I just asked a question, I'm not a ricer wanna be Tony D: get a clue and search for two minutes to get days worth of answers to your question, slight beat down newbie: waah, waah, you guys are rude, just answer my question Tony D: You don't get it, more beat down various posters: hey give the kid a break, the kid's a moron, this is what is wrong with the kids today, etc , etc Tony D: beat down to the left, beat down to the right, beat down straight up the middle Thread deleted That's life on an internet forum.

The 81 turbo balancer has a seperate toothed wheel bolted to it. The 82-83 has the soldi disc like you describe and it is not removeable. I also converted mine over using the 81 disc machined down to mimic a GM shutter wheel. I am using a FAST computer originally designed for a grand national with waste spark. back int he day I built this the FAST had just came out for the grand nationals. The Accel DFI at the time also had GN options available, but those were my only choices since I wanted a waste spark ignition. The wideband of the FAST sealed the deal for me. I am in Arlington, PM me if you want to come over for ideas.

I tried that fan, went so far as to trim the shroud thinner and cut away some of the supports, but still would not clear.

After all these years does Cometic not make a gasket for the L28 yet? They are one of the leaders in MLS gasket sets. www.cometic.com They can cut any gasket you want, offer many thicknesses, and the R&D is cheap. I had them cut me a set for an Indy based Buick engine and they gave me a set of gaskets if I sent them a sample gasket to copy and let them keep it.

Gone, baby, gone. I do agree the deal would probably never happen. I think we all get approached when we drive our cars for offers to buy. At least now you can be that guy that says " I have turned down $15,000 already" the next time someone asks how much to sell.

You are using cheap and three piece wheels in the same sentence? Where are you doing your shopping. I agree the maintenance seems overkill. I would expect daily driver maintenance to be as important as the racecar. The racecar may be at a higher speed if a problem arises, but at least it is in a safer environment with support people around. I would check bolt torque often and keep a very close eye on air pressure to catch slow leaks before they become a problem. I would not be rebuilding my rims every year. Three piece wheel mfg all recommend sending the wheels back to them for teardown and reassembly.

Shouldn't we be worried about the dropped valve seats and lost retainers? I seriously doubt the tuning, compression ratio, or software version is causing those issues. Depending on your setup 400 HP to the wheels is a pretty lofty goal. Don't get mislead by the handful of guys here who have been able to achieve those numbers. It does not come cheap,easy, or by accident. I prefer 9 to 1 and less boost personally, but a 8 to 8.5 motor is a very good compromise. Get second opinions on the tuning and find out what is wrong with the motor mechanically before you spend money to change compression rations in your quest. Dropping valve seats is very bad.

try www.inlinetube.com and www.classictube.com They reproduce the OEM lines for our cars as well as many others and also sell the component pieces. Good place to pick up stainless fittings and line, the rockguard coils, and other stuff not commonly found locally.

Still winning with 18, but I do have a two post lift as well. I had it for awhile, but just recently aquired the room to install it. A rotisserie and a full set of goJacks round out the specialty equipment. Doing major suspension changes or sheetmetal replacement requires lots of jackstands unless you have some kind of frame table to put the car on.

got you beat by two. 6 ton stands, 2 sets of 4 =8 3 ton stands, 2 sets of 4 =8 6 ton stands, 2 singles =2 18 total. Wish whoever borrowed the other two would bring them back. You are right though. It is feast or famine with jack stands. You are either tripping over them because you don't have any cars in the air, or you have them all under cars with no wheels when you are trying to do a simple oil change. Greg Kring 71 series one L28T