gregkring

I was at mast Motorsports yesterday dropping off a motor. They have an awesome shop and their standalone systems are killer. the things they are doing are great. Their controller even controls the new transmissions as well as the VVT setup.

Ditto. The corners don't fit so good on the weatherstrip. That one does look worse than normal, however. I can't see it being rust and that is not where you would cut it if someone replaced the roof due to hail, damage, sunroof, etc.

So, you previously was using non flux core wire with no shielding gas? That will create some poor welds as well. It would be a waste to setup gas shielding on top of using flux core wire. Flux core is best for welding outside in windy conditions, or quick and easy welds were the best looking welds are not necessary. If you start and stop alot with flux core you will have to spend time cleaning the slag back before you start the bead again. It took me awhile to adjust to gas shielded welding after using the flux core stuff, but I would not go back. Much easier to weld thin sheetmetal with regular wire and gas shielding. To answer your questions: You did not damage your machine. You should always sand or gind to fresh metal before welding for the best welds. However on nonstructural type welding, such as exhaust I would not worry about it too much. On roll cages, suspension pieces, etc you need the best welds possible.

Two in the cabin that are round knobs are probably the fresh air vents. Should be one on each side running up under the dash to open vents to the outside air. The two bicycle cables under the hood are for the chokes on the carbs. If you don't have carbs you won't need the chokes, obviously. Good luck. Get a camera and it will make your life much easier identifying this stuff.

And a 280 volt battery to power it!!

Doesn't have to. He is cross posting anyway. New to Z's and new to message boards apparently. Good luck with the Z and stay away from the upgrades and swaps since you say you are on a very tight budget. Much better off getting a running driver for $3000 than a project car for $500. Keep the carbs and it will be trouble free and run forever.

New mounts. Maybe there are different mounts for different years or something? My strut bar has maybe 1/4 inch of clearance to the valve cover So it's not liek the motor is already sitting to low for some reason. No way I could drop the motor two inches or move it back 4 inches like it is now. Maybe the trans mount is too high? I used a stock 240Z mount and sectioned it back an inch and a half to match up with the T5 trans. The T-5 shouldn't have a mount any higher or lower than a Nissan trans? Bad thing is everything else on the car is already done. I was just trying to improve things a little a far as fitment, but it will all work just fine as is. Now I am more intrigued than anything.

I have read a few old posts about setting back the L-6 motor in a quest for fan clearance and shifter locations. I did a bunch of measuring today and it looks like 2 inch setback would be fairly easy, if it was not for the oil pump. I can only move the engine back maybe 3/4 of an inch before the oil pump hits the rack mount. I can get around the hood latch and fabricate motor mounts okay, but what has anyone done about the oilpump clearance when moving the motor back? Raising the motor would nt work since it would put the motor more upright and hit the hood, interfere with strut bars, turbo downpipe clearance etc. 3/4 inch isn't worth it, I may just flatten out the radiator support to try and cheat or tilt the radiator a little forward for better fan clearance. Car is a 1971 series 1 with 280 turbo motor and T-5 trans.

you keep the vacuumn line on to raise fuel pressure 1 to 1 with boost pressure. Think of it this way. 20 pounds of fuel pressure and 20 pounds of boost in the intake would mean no fuel would spray when the injector opened. Therefore you need to raise fuel pressure as the boost raises. The opposite is also true. Zero fuel pressure and vacuumn in the intake would still suck fuel when the injectors opened. On the flip side I think you are confusing rising rate fuel regulators with stocj fuel pressure regulators. Rising rates will raise fuel pressure more than 1 pound per pound of boost to push extra fuel than would normally flow. Some do 1.5 to 1 pound of boost, some do 2, etc. A few searches here should clear up the mystery. Good luck

Yeah, you do not want to buy new! When I built this car 10 years ago there was no megasquirt, and very few other systems out there. I used a FAST computer designed for the Buick V-6 grand nationals. It allowed me to have a fully programmable MAP based sequential distributorless system with wideband feedback control. It helped that I also had a GN so plenty of spare parts. Back then the cam sensor could be had for $30. Now they are plenty of other options out there. I just wanted to show how other things could be adapted to work for those of us without accesss to CNC machines.

Tim, here's my cam sensor setup for distributorless sequential injection. Very easy to make from a Buick turbo V-6 cam sensor. It is a Hall effect with a shutter window. Very small package as you can see. These sensors are getting harder to find, however. I disassembled the shaft out of the middle, then cut the shaft down to the correct length as well as the aluminum shaft housing right below the oring. Then it was just a matter of using a freeze plug bushing on the datsun cover and cutting the slot in the sensor for the distributor drive.

Always good when a celebrity can be seen in the front seat of a police car! Don't know if a 5 minute vid was necessary, but thanks.

I'm guessing clearance issues. Some 3 inch exhaust start banging on suspension pieces, frames, scrape on the ground over speed bumps, etc. The also are louder, usually by design, for day to day driving. Running a dump like this lets you keep bone stock exhaust and only have the open dump during WOT "test runs". Looks liek a pretty neat setup, especially with a solenoid to make it on and off. You would not always want open exhaust just because you were under boost.

I'm planning on setting mine back about 2 inch. Will put my T5 shifter perfectly in the console where it belongs and maybe even give room for a short throw if I feel the need. Better benefit will be plenty of room for a good sized electric fan and a two row pulley. Right now I have about 1/2 inch between the taurus fan and my pulley.

98% straight line would qualify it as a drag car, so build it like one. Four link/backhalf setup. Plus to even go in the 10's in a Z car and be NHRA legal requires you to get the car ridiculously light, somewhere under 2200 lbs if I remember right. With that much horsepower I assume you plan on running well under 10 seconds, which will also require alot of cage work as well. So build the cage and rear at the same time. You will basically be building a chassis car with a Z body on it.

Littel tweaking and bending of the mounting tabs, but it fits!

Sorry, it was the 6 spoke 280zx rim. I have the new wheels in one place and my car in the other. I will try to get a cap and put it on the new wheels to see if it fits and looks right. Here are some stock pictures of the panasort and the factory wheels. teh factory wheel caps may be too big for the new rims?

I just bought a set of 16 X 8 in silver. I currently run 14 inch panasport and it was time to get into the 20th century, Ha! On the panasports I used 5 spoke ZX wheel caps with the "Z" logo and plan on using the same on these wheels. You can bend the ears on the back to fit almost any diameter hub. Paint them black and make the "Z" red and it should look great.

We ran a 300 shot progressive on 240z racecar with triple webers. You are going to have to bend up your own metal hardline by using a fogger style kit. That will make it a little more reaoneable, just takes awhile to bend them up nice. I'll try to find some pics, it really turns out nice.

That is motorsportauto, which he says is out of stock?

Don't think it is that hard to fab something up. I assume you are talking about the ones in the side panels? www.classic datsun also list some sutome brackets on their site. http://www.classicdatsun.com/new/240_misc-parts.html

That's the place I was thinking of. Perfect--thanks.

Who is currently selling reproduction interior diamond pattern vinyl and plastic trim? I am redoing my car and I am worried the plastic isn't going to hold upto to many more removals around the cage. The headliner is starting to loosen again and the foam backing is too dried out to reuse. I know the two obvious sources- VB (black dragon) and Motorsport Auto. Are there any other sources I should be aware of? Anybody actually buy the Motorsport plastic panels, and are they any good? I have very good looking originals right now, they are just old and brittle. I have done searches four ways from Sunday, but don't see much on original interior restoration.

even a stock shifter from a mustang is better than an old worn out Nissan unit. I found the stock ones with a short shifter work better than the quick ratio stuff since the quick ratios sit up so high and can interfere with the console. shifters for tremecs will not work, must be T-5 shifters.

you said male on one end and female on the other? That is not the one you showed, it is male on both ends. The oring straight thread have to go into a female hole designed for an oring. You could not use the oring on a hose end. you should be able to get a pressure reading on tons of places in a oil system. Drill and tap the oil filter adapter housing if you have one or use the stock gauge port wherever it is. The whole pressurized system should read the same no matter which side of the cooler it is on. Are you trying to diagnose an issue? Here is the male to femal with 1/8 pipe you were asking for. It is made to fit inline with hose fittings. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=RUS%2D670360&N=700+4294843700+4294906745+115&autoview=sku