nismopu

you can find a little info from some guys over at nissancustoms.com and the soon to be ressurected site of nissanminis.com. I do know that you have to notch the frame for clearance of the turbochargers and or relocate them via custom manifolds. It is entirely possible but its not gonna be cheap and is gonna require some fabrication. Luckily the motor mounts are the same though and most fab work will be in the exhaust routing and intercooler piping. peace.

so, my fsm is lying and the rod bearing diameter isnt completely different? Also theres a slight kink in your plan to run dual cam heads on a single cam block and thats the head bolts dont even come close. Theres like 13 headbolts on the single cam and eight or 10 on the dual cam heads. peace.

im pretty sure the front snout is different and you would have to get a DE flywheel since its an 8 bolt unlike the single cams six bolt. peace.

i do believe according to my FSM's that they are two completely different bearing sizes by alot 1.56 for vg33 and 1.9 for vg30. peace.

I fircken hate links to sites where oyu have to register or already be a member, but my friends a member of that site so maybe I will have him lookat the link. Anyway, I personally have quite a bit of experience with both engines and I can say that yes the VG30de is a much more advanced engine compared to the single cams but it IS a much harder engine to work on. Dont let anyone fool you into thinking its an easy swap because its a pain even into the z32 n/a. Quite a few more parts on the vg30dett a prone to failure compared to the single cam and its obvious of that because of its level of sophistication. A vg30dett will net you your HP goal easy in a z32 but getting it in and the money your gonna spend doing it will cost you more than just getting 500hp out of the single cam. Its your money, your time, and most importantly your car, so only YOU know whats best for it. VG30dett Pros: revs higher/smoother, beefy internals, best intake design 3var, and fairly inexpensive for 300+hp. Cons: much heavier, expensive components, physically bigger/hard to work on, and the turbos dont last as long. VG30et Pros: cheap, lighter, already in the car, easy to work on, fewer parts to fail Cons: poor aftermarket, lower power output, and cant rev as high All in all I dont see to much of a price gap between the two when waht it takes to rech that power level with either engine is spendy. Its the time that will kill you with the dual cam vg and getting it running right. peace.

if theyre placed before the bellmouth though they cant spray directly at the plate or throttle bar due to 'fuel reversion" and thats not good! Its best to keep them nearest the port for street use and light track use for driveability sake. You could place them in the middle of the runners but I dont think you would notice a huge difference in power over having it at the port. peace.

i have some pics on my cardomain page of a setup I am creating for the vg30 but the throttles can be adapted to your design as well and I got them from the single cam maximas. They only ran me about 20 bucks a piece and one from an mazda MPV would work well also but just more removal of crap. For airhorns I am going with a rather inexpensive method and oredering a bunch of old style "egg cups" people use these to display fabrige eggs and I beleive they were used in the old days to keep eggs from rolling around in the fridge. I dotn have any pics of the throttles on there right now its just the flanges and runners I have modeled. peace. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/1796507/7

sorry not used to posting on these forums and I guess I tend to leve out detials in my posts. i guess i will have to break out the calipers tomorrow and measure the head real quick. peace.

k, its bored .06 over, hypereutectic pistons, fully balanced rotating assembly, crank scraper, aluminum flyhweel, overiszed valves, and a turbo cam from oregon cam grinders. My fuel system involves 575cc injectors, audi quatro sport fuel pump, 3/8 braided stainless fuel line, weapon r FPR, maxrev motorsports fuel rail. My turbo is a garrett t3/t4(.60a/r cold and i think a .63 a/r hot side), stock manifold modified to use an external tial wastegate 38mm, and a 2.5 to 3inch DP. I have some other custom things done to the engine but I dont think its important to mention them since theyre little. peace.

My car is getting closer and closer every week to being ready to fire but the more I read on here the more I think its gonna be a pig off the line. The PO shaved alot off the head so it might not be as big of a deal but i dont really know how much is alot, it has been a while since my engine left the machine shop. So, I cant really remember how much they said was removed originally but it was a large amount from what I can remember. Anyway, the point of my worry is I am using a 2mm steel HG and I dont know how undrivable the low compression is gonna be, plus how its gonna affect my boost response! the engine is a rebuilt l28et from an 81zxt hybrid turbo(t3/t4) Any input from you guys would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

what is up with the east coast charging so much for v8's? A buddy and I did a chevy 350 swap in his 78 cutlass when we blew up the 305. We called like 15 junkyards in the area(up and down the coast), I was stationed in Maryland at the time. They wanted at least 1100 for a 305, and as much as 2000 for a 350. So, we just bought a crate olds 350 for 1500 and slapped all the old 305 stuff back on it and it ran pretty good but nothing to be proud of. Still cant believe they charge so much for those things over there when I can get one over here for a 1/3 that price and with a guarantee! peace.

thanks guys! A local turbo builder told me I should probly do this with an older baseline garrett. I guess the seals arent as up to the task as some of the newer versions? Anyway, little bits here and there getting me closer everyday. peace.

I have a hybrid garrett t3/t4 and the auto 81 zxt engine with the larger pump. I was told buy some people that I should run an oil restrictor(.064?), Is this true? peace.

put some ATF down the plug holes over night then the next day try 3rd gear when push starting it. Far as the TT swap goes its more involved just removing the engine than really anything else. my friend did it in his z32 and recently just yarded his tt engine back out due to alot of smoke coming out the back and other various noises emitting from it. I believe he used a TT harness, ECU, and a non auto tt engine(turbos are apparently smaller on the auto versions). Then for intercooling he bought a kit from the company he works for which is ETS(extreme turbo systems) and also they can probly answer any questions you may have. The owner of ETS has several Z32's including a 9 second turbo charged SBC stroker z32. peace.

I smell a custom turbo J-pipe being built, eh? I dont know the exact size but i can check it out for ya tomorrow when I am at my buddies house. peace.

they do in fact use a shorter tranny but its just about as rare to find as the 87-89 300zx turbo 5 speeds. Also, when the frontiers came out they used the z32 style shifter linkage and also I think the length is the same. I am curious if the fs5w71c's shifter would work also? Anyone got any input on this? peace.

go too http://www.carfiche.com and wait for one of the Z car manuals to become available and DL the FSM from there for free. I am not sure exactly what other info you might be looking for so I suggest just DL-ing the FSM. peace.

like an under drive pulley set? or just standard ones? I know http://www.arizonazcar.com sells serpentine style under drive pulleys. I dont know if http://www.maxrev.com is still in business but theyre who I got mine from. peace.

never bought bigger valves through them but I have bought quite a few parts from them and theyre pretty knowledgable about the products they sell. When I went with larger valves the machine shop I used assumed the head had never been touched and used ones with longer stems too. So, when I put my cam in all my valves were open and unset because a PO had milled the head. Deffinately ask if your gonna need extra work done like shimming the cam towers and anything else they might change thats just gonna cost you extra money. peace.

The studs still havent been changed out and I need to do this but basically the compressor housing hits without having a thin spacer to keeps it away from the manifold itself. If I remember right I made it out of a .25 piece of mild steel but its enough to warrant some longer studs so the turbo doesnt fall off, lol. The ECU I am running is from a company called perfect power and are becoming popular in the WRX crowd because of their inexpensive piggy backs. i bought this ECU before WRX's even came to the states so its been around for a while and it works well having all the same features as megasquirt with a little finer tuning in my opinion. The model I have is perfect powers PRS4 and i should really upgrade to their full stand alone system but this is gonna have to do for now. Yeah, if i cant find a factory oil cooler setup that will just bolt in then I will worry about it later. peace.

alright i just spent sometime in the garage with the car trying to make a parts list of what i still need to make it drivable and I totally forgot it was out of an auto. So, theres this oil filter adpater and the holes for the factory oil cooler. Do you guys think I really need to run an oil cooler or should I just plug these for now and get it running?

Ok, I havent posted here in a couple years it seems like and if I had no one would know who I am. Anyway, names kyle and I own a 1976 280z with a rebuilt l28et in it. I drove the car one time and that was when it was n/a, now that the turbo engine is in it which has been two years now its just been sitting. When I started this project 4 years ago...yes 4 YEARS AGO, I had big plans for my original car a 1977 which turned out to be too far gone and rusted too mess with. Then a couple years later I found this 76 and now its been the best deal so far, except I still dont have it driving. I think the biggest problem besides money has been that I have gone to far over my head and relied too much on other peoples advice than actually doing the research myself. I spent a bunch of money with a company that now has since gone under and it took them almost a year too get my fuel stuff to me. Once it got here I realized it wasnt going to be just a bolt on deal. My turbo wasnt easy either since it was externally wastegated, too big for the stock exhaust mani studs, and now I think its too small for 400hp. I am shooting for 350whp and like 12 second quarters with this car and I just dont think its possible with this turbo. Anyway, I just came across some cash and now I can finally get the little and some big stuff done to finish this car...finally. Now I need your guys opinion on whether or not my goal is doable and or what else I need for it to be road worthy. Motor Specs - L28 F54 block bored .040 - Hypereutectic dished pistons - Balanced rotating assembly - Fidanza flywheel - High flow oil pump - ARP studs holding things together P90A Head - Oversized valves/longer stems(stainless) - NISMO Springs - Performance TURBO cam (specs? cant find my cam card) - Shimmed cam towers - 2mm Steel Head gasket - ARP Head studs holding the head down Things I have - Maxrev fuel rail - Audi Quattro Sport fuel pump 255lph and 95 psi - Siemens 575cc fuel injectors - Maxrev Motorsports BOV, FPR Bracket, Fuel Rail - High flow custom DP - Hybrid T3/T4 turbo - 80mm TB - Turbo Intake manifold - Modified 280zx turbo manifold - OP Heavy duty clutch - Fully Programable ECU Things I need - Boost engineerings EDIS 6 - Aeromotive FPR - Crank trigger wheel - Stainless Exhaust tubing - IC Piping - time to install all these items

when I was on the flightline we used to see how high the -60's would shoot our gloves up in the air. yeah, it was a big FOD hazard but fun nonetheless. sorry, I dont think this idea of putting a very unpredictable airplane motor in a Z a smart idea either. However you would get some serious "cool" points if you did do it and would probly enjoy the heck out of it until it grenaded. peace.

hey not to jack your post but "hey wagz the 300 is still running!"

I think the best deal I have ever found for buying a Hybrid turbo is on Sandrailparts.com. I dont know if their prices have gone up or not but I picked it up for 475 bucks two years ago. I think that was the best deal going!