deja

Well, we'll see how it goes since I already have them, they were a bit more costly.

AW GEEZE, that figures, I just bought those. Haven't fired the engine up yet but the boxes are long gone so taking them back is not an option. Why do you say they aren't any good? Not even for normal street use?

I have read on fbody.com that you can pull it out through the top without cutting anything but it would not be easy. Biggest issue I saw was how to bolt on the cherry picker since the engine sits so far under the cowl. That depends on how much of the car you want to salvage. I did the same thing with a 94 Z28. The front clip on mine was pretty useless since the car took the big hit right at the windshield post. I cut out the radiator support and much of the cowl to get better access for the cherry picker lifting bolts. Dropped the exhaust, disconnected the engine wiring from the chassis wiring and took off all the hoses. It lifted out very easy after that, transmission and all. It was much easier than putting it in the 280Z.

Sorry, I am using the light control so I need that pigtail and I already gave away the AC control with all the vacuum control lines.

HUH? I didn't read it that way at all, no problem. Besides you got me interested coming up with installing a cup holder too.

Sorry I couldn't make it, would have been great to meet you. But I had my welder scheduled that day and couldn't miss the window of opportunity. Seeing everyone would have been more fun than 9 hours of welding but we got a lot accomplished. Next time for sure and maybe I'll actually have my car finished or at least running.

Thats a good site. Those connectors are for the LSX not the LT1 but the pins may be the same. $80 for the crimper! Lots of other good connnectors on the site, bookmarked, thanks.

Man, this is got totally out of hand. I was reading about putting too much stress on that Schrader valve fitting caused buy too much weight and engine vibration. Even the instructions that came with that adapter shows a hose going from the adapter to the gauge.

Not to remove the pin from the connector, but to chrimp on a new one???

Personally I just cut the wires and either shorten or lengthen them one at a time so you don't get confused. I basically do this for a living (computer engineering tech) and finding the correct pins to crimp on the wires is bad enough, but the crimp tool will cost a small fortune if you can even find one. Your standard AMP super champ crimper is not going to do the job. I'm using the entire Z28 wiring harness in my car (insane I know) and so far I only have one unused wire going to the ECU. I will leave about 6" of the wire, put some heat shrink over the end and wrap it into the harness, just in case I ever need it, I think it came from the ABS or the traction control, don't remember right now. It’s a brown wire at the corner of one of the ECU connectors if memory serves me. I used the '94 Z28 metal tank from my donor car. The '01 is no doubt a better choice but since I had this one and it was in perfect shape I decided to use it. BTW if you need the connector and pigtail for that Camaro gauge cluster I will have one. I am converting over to Firebird gauges cluster because I think it looks and fit better in my dash plan. But of course the Camaro and Firebird use different connectors!!!!! This is assuming I can find a GM # 12065803 connector, probably have to go to a dealer. There are pinouts for the Camaro gauge cluster at http://shbox.com/1/95_z_cluster_pinout.jpg But it doesn't look complete. If you need that I can get it from my Camaro manual.

You may have to go to your Chevy dealer to get the connector. The factory shop manual has a list of the connector numbers, sorry I don't have my manual here right now. As far as shortening and extending wires I just cut and spliced. Use solder and heat shrink and don't do all the wire in the same location on the cable or you'll end up with a very thick cable.

My days of dealing with a stick are long gone, been there done that including some road racing. This car is a daily driver and highway cruiser. The car had a 5 speed before I decided to upgrade to the LT1. I went with the automatic by choice.

The paddle shifter is shifted by a controller but it only works for forward gears, no reverse, no park. SHOULD HAVE? hmmmm. Well that may be but I doubt I'll change it. Besides the transmission tunnel had been butchered up by the previous owner and since its part of the unibody I decided welding in some strong metal was a good choice. The only hole the 4L60E needs is for the control cable. Making something more complex that would bolt in and might be useable for who know what in the furture seems pointless to me. Its not like it i would be difficult to modify if I ever wanted to.

Its just the stock Z28 shifter but I am going to install a Twist Machine paddle shifter. You still need a "normal" shifter with the paddle shifter because it doesn't have a park, neutral or reverse.

Its welding day! My buddy Chris came over today armed with his MIG welder and a ton of gas and wire. The plan was to weld in the fuel tank frame I made for the Z28 tank , weld in the transmission mount reinforcement plate floor plates, the dropped tunnel plate and brackets I made to lower the 4L60E shifter and weld on the Baddog frames. It was a very long day especially for Chris who obviously did most of the work. It all went pretty smoothly with only minor adjustments to the tank frame to allow the new floor boards to be installed. The Baddog frames took almost 6 hours to position and weld in, I had previously cleaned all the undercoating and stripped the interior. We used a couple hydraulic jacks and some 2x4s to get them as tight to the floor as we could. Chris then clamped them tight against the frame with "C" clamps and stitch welded them into place moving the clamps as he went down each frame. I will clean this all up and apply a coat of POR-15 for rust protection.

Yep you're right this is NOT going to work. I need one with a 1/8 NPt female. Unless I can find an adaptor to go from the 1/4 flare to 18 NPT. I may just give up this whole idea.

The part came last night. Only issue is the connection for the sending unit is male, sending unit is also male (I think that's illegal in Georgia), gonna need a female coupler.

Thanks for the input. As bad as my rails and floors are now that contour thing isn't a real issue, LOL. I think we'll be doing a lot of hammering. I'll see how it all goes this weekend.

Click on the products page link, you can look at bigger pictures, looks to me like the main sections are bent, mine are straight all the way. BTW mine are all one piece.