deja

I went to http://shbox.com/page/index.html and looked up the schematic for the ABS. Looks like that light is turned on by the electronic brake contol module (don't have that anymore). I may have to engineer my way around this one. I think the PCM is going to kick a code unless I can fake it out.

That could be it. Thats not hooked to anything yet. But I remember my AMX had a switch on the proportioning valve that would look for a drop in pressure on both front and back systems and would light up the warning light if something went wrong. Gonna have to go through the Z28 manual to see how the e-brake hooks into that light.

Is there a switch other than the one on the brake pedal that monitors the brakes on a 280Z? I have switched to a different gauge cluster and wiring harness in my LT1 swap and the ABS warning light is on all the time. I know there is usually a switch on a proportioning valve that monitors the front/rear pressure but I don't think our cars have that, at least mine doesn't. From what I've found searching Datsuns simply monitor the pedal switch. Is that right?

Thanks. ADS 17"x7 wheels I found on Eaby of all places and Falken Ziex ZE-512 215/50/17s.

Alignment for sure. Gotta get a few things done first, like a dash, tail lights and an exhaust! I actually moved it this morning for the first time under its own power. A whole 5 feet forward and back but at least it moved!

Yesterday was suspension lowering day on my LT1 280Z. My choice was TOKICO HZ3012 and HZ3013 springs and shocks, bump stops 88-715 from Black Dragon and spacers 23-4186 from zcarparts.com. After the recent threads about Tokico kits dropping the car to the ground I was more than a little worried about this swap. But it all worked out perfectly. Thankfully Nullbound volunteered to help me install all this stuff. At 9:00 AM Ryan came over and we started tearing the front struts off. It all went every well with a small detour with a stubborn brake caliper on the first side. The second side went very smoothly. After a break for lunch we moved to the rear. It's much different back there with the sway bar being unbolted and the brakes out of the way whole thing, arms and all come out. Everything was going perfectly and it looked like were an hour away from finishing when I heard Ryan say "uh oh". One on the bolts holding the rear differential mounting member was stripped. It looked like a previous injury and not something we did. After a trip to the bolt store to get a slightly larger 7/16" bolt and a tap we were ready to install again. At least we thought so. Seems I tapped the wrong hole, DOH! Ryan went back to the bolt store for a second bolt while I tapped the correct hole. After that it all went back together with the only issue being the top washer for the sway bar, that last piece to go on, mysteriously disappeared. It took us 10 minutes to find the damn thing sitting on the trailing arm where we both had looked at least twice, damn garage gremlins! It took 9 hours to do the whole car with including the two unforeseen problems. The car looks so much better sitting lower. The bottom of the rockers are sitting at 7.5" at the front with a nice little rack of 8.5" at the back. Unfortunately I didn't take measurements before the swap. I can't wait for my first test ride. I can't thank Ryan enough for this, he did most of the work and without him I would have been lost very quickly. The shop manual tells you what to do but there are a lot of little tricks involved in this, not to mention some of this stuff is heavy and cumbersome to attempt doing alone!

Those numbers look pretty good to me. I certainly understand your frustration with the stumbling. You may be right, it might be cheaper in the long run to take it somewhere for diagnostics. That's assuming you can find someone with enough knowledge to find the problem.

Will a R200 rear LSD differential and rear CV half shafts from a RB25DET SKYLINE work in a 280Z? Or at least will the R200 work?

I am using an Aeromotive EFI fuel filter from Summit Racing. Whatever you use make sure its designed to be an EFI filter. Don't be fooled by pressure and flow rate specs.

Do what wheelman said and tag all your wires so you know where they go when you put it in the Z. Trust me on this one, you will NOT remember. Even if you don't know what a wire does at least number it and the place where it came from. Also take as many pictures as you can so you can reference them on reinstall.

I think you wrote down too may numbers. http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm 3970020....307...69-73

Very cool. Timing is everything, I just happen to have pulled my turn signal switch out today and will clean it up. Thanks for the hints.

I'm an electronic tech so I know relays, even though our industry doesn't use them much these days. But it is the input to the relay switch from the computer that was dropping 12v. Some how the computer knew the pump wasn't working and shut the votage off to the relay. I am still learning the workings of the GM PCM. I started the car this morning....WHEW that was a nice sound, LOL.

Hmmm, that's a possibility. I plan on taking it to work for analysis.

Finished? ROTFLMAO. I am no where near finished. I am redesigning the dash using TransAm gauges and a new center panel that will house the lights switch, wiper switch, ignition and this push button, fuel pressure gauge AC and my stereo and a few other things. I will post some picts when I get further along. right now the dash isn't even in the car. BTW the push button I'm using is out of a Viper.

I changed the relay and charged the battery for 3 hours. The fuel pump ran as soon as I turned the ignition. OK was it the relay or the low battery? I swapped in the old relay and no fuel pump. Strange that the relay would just decide to die, then again it is probably the original and that makes it 14 years old.

I added my push button start today and decided to test it of course. When I tuned on the ignition I did not hear the fuel pump start, not good. The push button start kicks the starter but I have no fuel. I figure I must have left out a wire but I checked and everything is hooked up. If I hit the fuel pump purge the pump runs. The purge wire is hooked to the same wire that is the output of the relay. I have +12v from the ignition in run position on the pink wire (switched contact) at the fuel pump relay and ground on the coil. The hot side of the coil is a green/white wire which has +12v when I first turn the ignition on, but it goes away very quickly and you can hear the relay click off. That green/white wire comes the PCM 7A (fuel pump relay control). Obviously this is my problem. I tried another computer, same result. I even rewired in that EBay VATS bypass module to the PCM input, no help there either. I have another relay I am going to try and am charging the battery. I've been doing a lot of headlight/dimmer testing and maybe the battery is low. The voltage is dropping quite a lot when I hit the starter and the volt meter in the gauge cluster is reading less than 12V. Keeping my fingers crossed, I would hate to waste these 5 days off chasing this problem.

I'm using them, no issues at all. I'm running 17x 7 rims. BTW I have two extra 1" adapters with Honda pattern I will sell. Not sure if they are MM but they look identical, right down to the markings. They came on a rear suspension I bought about 2 years ago. I don't think they have ever been on a car. PM me if you're interested, I will let them go for $75 including shipping. Dale

That works in theory but there is surge current to worry about. Most electrical devices have a huge inrush of current when they are turned on, especially motors. Hook a couple of these on the same circuit and you'll blow fuses a lot of fuses if the rating isn't a lot higher than the static load determined by measuring resistance. Slow blow fuses help, but are no guarantee Like was said above, fuses protect against fire, size the fuse for the wire gage they are feeding, not the end devices. If you devices draw too much current for the wire to handle you need to rewire the car.