R3VO 3VOM

Wheels were built by Pine Engineering out of NZ. With the exchange rate they were cheaper than you'd think (not $600 cheap but you get my point). Tires I'm running 235/50/15 Toyo R888 fronts and 275/50/15 Nitto NT555R.

SSR XR4 Longchamps. 15x11 -53 15x12 -51

This thread may get moved because this is kind of a Want to buy. But are you sure those are 3 piece? Every set of Epsilons I've seen (whopping 2 so I'm no expert on them) were 3 piece welded (so actually 2 piece). So replacing lips isn't something you can easily do in your garage. Either way check out Pine Engineering in New Zealand. Really good group of guys. I've had them do 2 15x12 XR4 Lonchamps for me before and having them do 2 15x11's to match now. They stock lips in 15" sizes. They won't be cheap because redoing wheels is not cheap by any means. But they will most likely be cheaper than here in the states (conversion rate is in our favor) unless you know a guy with the in.

First time out with the new rear setup. Now 15x12 -51. I'm now looking for some 16" BBS to use the fronts to run turbofan covers with. Anyone have a pair?

I'm not far behind you with mine. Just ordered new tires tonight. 17x10 -3 17x11.5 -22. Hard to find 4x114.3 pattern.

Bit of an update. Transmission drives awesome. Love being able to shift gears. The Hurst shifter is amazing. The .73 overdrive is great cruising down the highway. Dropped the engine RPM a lot. Not as good as the .64 T5 ratio but I'll take it over the 1:1. I've said it before and I will say it again: first gear is basically useless. I start in second half the time because it's not even worth being in first and shifting to second within 3 feet of starting off. It did develop a slight leak out of the 1-2 shift shaft after a few drives so pulled the car back in and pulled the cover to fix it. You can pull the cover off the transmission leaving it in the car which is nice. I can't tell if the reverse shaft is leaking as well, as the fluid from the 1-2 may have run down and gotten on the reverse. I'm thinking of changing it but in order to do it properly you have to disassemble the entire transmission which is something I'd rather not do. So I may try to get creative. It will come out the front of the case but removing the o-ring retainer might be a bit of a challenger without messing it up. I'm trying to source some new o-ring retainers so I can attempt to pull the one for the reverse shaft out of the front. However these transmissions aren't exactly common so it's proving to be "fun". I may just machine some out of aluminum or something to get a better fit. The stock retainers seem to be a plastic of some sort. Maybe machine down some new delrin plastic. Would make my life easy if I could just find some though. Nobody seems to sell them when they sell used covers so people must be getting them from somewhere. On a side note: If you're ever looking to do this swap and need to know what fluid it takes. 80W-90 or 75W-90 or 80W (cold climate) gear oil. I was worried I had the wrong stuff in it because reading internet forums some people said ATF while others said 10W-40 motor oil or other weight motor oil. No. The factory Chevy service manual for the trucks this transmission came from recommend those above weights of gear oil. So I'm going with what the factory manual says versus internet forums. That is, once I get it reassembled.

Well the transmission is in. I can't say that it was an easy road to travel but I finished it. Made the first drive yesterday. Few small kinks to work out but none of them are with the transmission. I changed to a traditional clutch fork and external slave cylinder setup because even after calling the manufacture I still could not get all of the air to bleed out of the hydraulic throw out bearing. It wouldn't move to release the clutch. And after reading a lot of reviews on all various brands of hydraulic throw out bearing I decided that if it didn't work I would be going with a traditional external slave; all of them seem to leak after a set amount of time and it's an amount of time that is way less than the unit should last. Got the point it didn't work so I went that route. The main issue here was that the bellhousing I was using is either for a truck or C3 corvette (couldn't find definitive answers either way). So I had to notch the firewall for clearance. Wasn't anything difficult; the most difficult part was building the box to enclose the notch and not catching the car on fire welding the box in. After driving it I will say overdrive is awesome. Cruising at 2000 rpm isn't the best but I'll take it over the 3300 I was spinning before. The clutch is the heaviest single plate I have ever driven. But that isn't "transmission" related. The trans shifts very smooth. I will say however that, even though the ratios are the exact same as a 700r4, 1st is basically useless. I never realized how fast the auto would shift out of first but you shift at more or less 5mph because you're winding out first gear. So in the end, I would personally do the swap again. These cars, in my opinion, need to be manual. Auto is nice but as I don't drive this car everyday I want to enjoy the experience. And the picked up mpg and drop in cruising rpm is really nice. What to take away from this thread? I would NOT recommend this swap if you have little fab skills. It's a good amount of work. The shifter bracket must be custom made and the shift arms extended and tucked close to the transmission. If you must attempt this swap I highly recommend the C4 corvette 4+3 bellhousing like JTR recommends for the T5 swap. It has the fork coming out around lower than my bellhousing and the slave cylinder is tucked very close. All this allows you to not have to notch your firewall like I did. The other camaro T5 housing that puts the trans at a 15 degree angle I would not recommend because then you'll have to make a custom shifter and may run into issues with the shifter box hitting the transmission tunnel; especially if you have a 240Z with the narrower tunnel.

Interested as well. I've been debating adapting an S13 system before but I'm worried the S13 front bag size wont fit in the Z shock tower. So a kit would be nice. I want the low look but I can't stand scraping everywhere. Been slammed hated it have since raised the car up.

I think this is an R180 is it not? The R200 3.36 came from the '79 280ZX 4 speed 2+2 I believe. Edit: if this site is correct the 3.36 R200 was only '79 http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html

I don't think that's possible to do. I say "think" because I'm sure somewhere on the "interwebs" someone has done it. But there isn't enough case space nor the correct fluid passages or anything of that nature to support an internal overdrive (why the 700R4 is so much larger). It's easier to just swap in a 700R4 or 200R4 (if space is a concern) and be done with it. Yes you'll have to move your crossmember but that's not the end of the world. It's an easy job. About as easy as replacing the transmission. Few new holes and you're good. If you have a built TH350 you can always tack on a gear vendors overdrive unit behind it. It'll make the driveshaft super super short (probably around 10"-12" with the factory R200 longnose) but if you have a ton of money invested in the trans it's an option. They aren't cheap though. For the money a gear vendors cost you could sell your built TH350 and buy a built 700R4. But for most just swapping is way easier.

Ebay listing when it was for sale: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Professionally-restored-1972-Datsun-240-Z-Resto-Mod-/161386307368?afsrc=1&rmvSB=true It looks nice but nothing that's really mind blowing. I thought he was known for crazy unique/custom Ridler award winning rides?

I've been through this debacle so I know a little bit (assuming you have the JTR crossmember or something similar). I was running a TH350 but I can't stand turning 3200 down the highway. 700R4 is further back by about an inch if you run the tailshaft housing JTR says not to (early caprice style). It'll be about 3-4" back if you run the JTR recommended tailshaft housing (from the late model caprice). The 700R4 however allows you to keep the same length driveshaft (it's a slightly longer transmission but it won't bottom out). You may find you'll need to also modify your exhaust routing and hammer the tunnel out a bit more because of how large the 700R4 is compared to the TH350. Muncie 4-speed of certain years will bolt up in the stock location. I've read they changed the length of the muncie some year and the mount moved slightly. The later model will be in the same location as the TH350. The earlier ones I believe are a little forward as they are like an inch shorter than the later model ones. However, the Muncie is shorter overall than the TH350 in most applications (some say its the same length. The general consensus including me find they're around 2-3" shorter) so you'll need to modify your driveshaft. A muncie doesn't gain you anything as it's still a 1:1 final drive just like the TH350. I'm running an NP440 out of an '80's Chevy pickup (you can find my thread in this subforum covering my swap) and the transmount bolted right up to the stock TH350 crossmember and in the same TH350 location. I did however have to get a new driveshaft 3" longer than my TH350 one and a small modification to the shifter box placement. T5 and T56 I'm almost certain are further back but I could be wrong here (these pull big money around me so I never looked into them). So in the end it's what do you want. Stay auto or go manual? 4-5-6 gears? Either way something will need modifying.

Be down the U.S. east coast anytime? Haha. I have a severely cracked one you can have for free.

WELL I took today and got the transmission in. It's tight but I didn't have to cut any of the tunnel. After catching the car on fire once I really am hesitant to welding on anything close to the interior. I did have to smack one spot for the shifter box but otherwise there is plenty of space. It's a lot more narrow than the TH350 that came out of the car. I did have to modify one shift linkage to tuck it closer to the transmission (remember, mine have been modified once before me and again when I lengthened them for my new shift bracket) but otherwise the linkages cleared the transmission tunnel and even cleared the TH350 JTR crossmember. Here is the transmission in the car. Clearance on the side of the transmission tunnel between the shifter box and the shift linkages. The stock mounts have already been removed per the JTR manual. Interior picture. Shifter comes up almost center of the factory hole. 3 inches back and once inch down seems to be a good spot; although another 1/2 inch back wouldn't hurt. It should be noted that my car is a factory auto car so it has an extra plate welded in for the auto shifter. You can see outlined in black sharpie the factory manual shifter opening. As of the time of the picture I hadn't removed the factory auto shift plate making it as wide as the factory manual opening. Here is the clutch master I am running per the hydraulic throw out bearing recommendations. Didn't have to slot any of the holes. Bolted right on. Nice fit. Now just waiting on the driveshaft to be shortened and I'll be ready to fill it with fluid and drive. Hopefully it doesn't have any issues. I really don't want to pull it back out again.

Not from a mustang. From a V8 Camaro. Difference is the bellhousing pattern and subsequent matching case pattern. V8 Camaro T5 bolts on. Mustang T5 you'll need an appropriate clutch disc and either an adapter to use a chevy bellhousing or an aftermarket bellhousing that's drilled to accept the mustang T5 pattern. Now there is talk of rare bellhousings that allow mustang T5 trans to bolt to a chevy pattern engine (I think they were "ironduke" jeep housings but not 100% sure) but these are hard to find. Just going Camaro T5 makes your life easy with the swap. V8 Camaro T5 is what JTR recommends for a manual swap.

The 16 is a dying size. There most likely isn't a market for them. A lot of vintage car owners like 15's as opposed to 16's. Why they decided to make the 15" in the first place. They seem now to be switching to the modern car market with 17" and up. So not looking like 16's are on the radar. So if you want your fix in 16 you'll have to go RS Wat.

I really dont want to cut another hole if I don't have to. I'd like it to come up through the factory hole. I don't want to do what roadkill did fitting their NV3500 S10 trans and hack up the dash and heater controls. I took a rough measurement with the engine and trans bolted up and it's looking like it will come up perfectly through the factory hole. Only issue will be drivers side clearance for the shift box and the 3-4 linkage. How did you widen the tunnel? Was it necessary to cut and make a box patch or could you massage it out with a hammer? It's looking like it will be very very close. But to accommodate for the moved shifter mechanism I just extended the shift linkages using the stock rods and welded in extensions. All shifts as smoothly as before I cut them. I was even able to tuck the 3-4 rod closer to the trans ever so slightly. But what I found upon further investigation is my shifter isn't the factory Hurst shifter that came with these transmissions but rather a Hurst Competition Plus unit. The levers have been modified once which is why they didn't sit close to the trans. So I fixed that when I lengthened them.

They do. But the standard one is forward of the standard T56 position. I ran into the same issue with my 4 speed with the shifter being forward of the factory hole.

The sbc 350 V8 swap is very easy compared to other swap choices (an engine swap difficulty is relative to the individual). I did it in 2 weekends (but that's because I work slow and may or may not have missed the step about slotting the mounts). If you go this route JTR is your best friend. Concentrate on getting the swap in before going turbo. You'll need more small miscellaneous things than you'll think you need. New fuel pump (EFI pump does not work with a carb), fuel line, filter, throttle cable, etc. Don't get in over your head and start counting your sheep early. You need the base before you can build anything else. As for turbo carb, seems like you need to do a little more reading on the subject. I'm in the same boat as you only my swap is done. I'm looking at going turbo with my 350 V8 swap. Blow thru carbs aren't anything new. They have been around for quite a while. There's some good links on places like yellowbullet for how it works. You can buy a carb made for blow thru from places like demon as you said (although demon blow thru has horrible reviews. Quick Fuel and CSU have way better reviews. Roadkill uses a Quick Fuel on the Rotsun) or modify an existing carb like a Holley 750. If you modify one, then you have to start looking at fuel delivery in that you can jet up and run rich, jet down and run a secondary fuel delivery system (meth) or you can make it so the power valve (PV) works and it will run well. But remember, no carb is going to be optimized for your situation. You'll have to change the "settings", like tuning an ECU to best suit. Especially with boost. A wideband O2 is a must so you can know exactly what the engine is doing. The stock R200 will hold up fine to more than what I think you'll put down with a 350 sbc. Unless you go fully built high boost. But even then you'll run into limitations as others have said with the stub axles not the diff. The reason people use the WRX is it's LSD. Twin turbo setups are easier plumbing for a V configured engine; you don't need a crossover pipe connecting the two banks (like the front pipe of the Rotsun that Fin welded together wrong). And they're generally better for response as you would use 2 smaller turbos. Downside is it's more expensive as you need two of everything. With a single you don't want to "choke" the engine with a small turbo but too big you run into lag. Plumbing is a little more complicated but you only need one of everything. (This is a basic basic version; there are many other factors when selecting what turbo to use. Big frame turbos can spool quick depending on other factors like housing size, exhaust, wheel design, etc.). The people running twins may have gone that way for the response, bragging rights, whatever. It doesn't really concern you. For all the twin turbo ones there are just as many single turbo ones. Packaging is always an issue with any engine swap in these small imports. There is technically room for two turbos or a crossover and one. Just how much fab you want to do. The V8 swap kit may bolt on but it will sit very far forward as its made to account for another 2 cylinders. Stock fuel pump as I've said is an EFI pump and can't be used for a carb. The diff swap has been documented here on HybridZ (other options out there if you're only after LSD) but again if that's really a concern you'll start busting stubs before the diff.

Well did some measurements tonight and found why so few people run muncie style transmissions. The overall length of the transmission is around 2-3 inches shorter than a T5. This means that the shifter is 2-3 inches forward from where the T5 shifter is and thus no longer through the factory shifter hole. To solve this issue I made a new shifter bracket out of some steel I had laying around and moved the shifter back 3 inches to accommodate for the shorter length. Now I just need to lengthen the shift rods and it will be back to working condition. (Yes I know there is not a 3rd bolt in the bracket. Just put two in there to make sure reverse still worked. 3rd will be put in upon final mounting)

Got the transmission fully assembled tonight. Had to mod the adapter ring ever so slightly to clear the heads of the bolts on the front bearing retainer. Adjusted all the shift levers as I got it in pieces. Bellhousing was off as well as the shifter and linkages. After adjusting them and making sure that all the gears work, I have to say this is one of the coolest shifters I've messed with. Its spring loaded to be over at 3-4 spot. 1-2 is an easy pull to the left. So quick 1-2 then when you go to 3-4 the spring helps pop it over as you make the quick change. Very cool. Reverse is a spring loaded lock out so you really have to pull left to get it to go into reverse. I guess to keep you from going into reverse by mistake. Here it is. This is my first side loader transmission so I find it very cool to see all the shift mechanisms external to the case. Edit: Realized afterwards that the 3-4 shift linkage is installed upside down. I put it on like a muncie. However we must remember what's posted in the original post. 3-4 is flip flopped and the shift linkage switched. So the shift pattern according to position inside the case is technically 1-2-4-3. So I had to flip the front lever arm 180.

This is very true. Good names and nice colors sell product in a free market. But there are internal differences between the two that make one better than the other; very few components will swap between the two. The world class uses roller bearings as opposed to bushings in the non-world class units. Also, the synchros on the second designs are a composite material whereas on the first design they are brass.

I think it will all depend on what you can find in your price range. By all means, try to find a T5. Its be best bang for buck manual transmission to use. Came in a multitude of Chevy vehicles. Make sure you get the V8 one as the V6 I believe has a different tilt and a different bellhousing bolt pattern. Someone correct me if I'm wrong here. I know that around me, Chevy pattern T5's pull big money in comparison to their Ford counterparts. In my opinion (and budget), the prices they are going for are too high considering what they are. Half the time they aren't even the world class units. I'd say don't be afraid to look into other options. Automatics can be had all day for cheap. I have one in mine right now. Make sure you get a 700r4 if you go this route; overdrive is a huge plus. T56 would be nice but those pull even more than the T5's. Corvette C4 ZF 6 speed is an option. But the only way you'd get one of those cheap is someone who doesnt know what they have. They aren't easy to come by and you'd probably have to massage the tunnel. I'll be swapping in a late model overdrive 4 speed manual (thread is in this subforum. NP440). If you can find one they're really cheap in comparison. But it all depends on your area. Georgia T5's might be cheaper secondhand. And you might get lucky at a junkyard. But if you can find one for your price, T5.

What kind of 350 are you running? Or what style of mounts are you running that the filter is sitting on top of the frame rail? I've never heard of this problem before. Either way you can just buy one and fit it where ever you see fit. GM performance made one I think. Rock auto has a reproduction/knock off of this last time I checked.