R3VO 3VOM

Thanks. I have a flared 280Z but only because it was all rusty. This one is 100% rust free body so I don't plan to cut this one. Wheels are Work VSXX 17x8 +22 and 17x8.5 +10. Front will have 1" spacer and rear will probably get a small slip on. I'm thinking of going with a 205/45, 225/45 or 225/40. Haven't made up my mind yet. Good thing about 17" is you can get nearly any size and profile you want. My flared car is on 16" and there is very limited choices.

Only had limited supplies on hand at the time to mock the new wheels up, hence the weird camber. But new setup for my non-flared S30 which is waiting for warmer temps to be painted.

I'd definitely say go up to a 17" given what you plan to do with the car. I'm running 16x9 conquest wheels on my flared car with some generic 225 tire. 245 is about the max width in a 16" with anything less than a 50 sidewall. 16" tire sizes suck. That being said, Mickey Thompson makes some like 335's but they're a drag radial. My non flared car will be running 17" just because you can get basically any tire you want in a lot of different profiles all the way up to a 335. I've never heard of anyone having issues with clearing the control arms. You hit the strut tubes/spring perches before anything else trying to put wide wheels under a Z. Thats the problem I'm having right now with my stock bodied car; I'm trying to fit the widest wheel but still limiting me to around a x9.

I hope you aren't talking about that series 1 on Craigslist in Greensboro..... If so I'll save you the look. I live in Raleigh (1 hour away) and checked it out about a month ago.

Sweet looking project. My RB is coming out in the coming months to go to a new shell. Wish I had a 26 like you. Car looks awesome! Nice to see the resistor mod works to get the tach to read; I've only read of people saying it works nobody actually to do it. I have the resistors just been hesitant to do it. I've had my autometer tach in my car forever now, but as I've driven it maybe 5 miles since doesn't bother me too much. And I really don't want to spend the extra money on an adapter. So I'll be doing this resistor modification.

I'll have some 17x8 -3 17x8.5 +3 (rear size depending. Haven't taken the clearance measurement yet) mocked up this weekend on my new non-flared shell. x9 +0 fits just fine. May run into strut clearance with that +15. May need spacers to lower the effective offset and move it away from the strut tube.

Took another picture tonight. Waiting to order new lips for my VSXX until I decide if I'm going to reshell my car into a new shell. 16x9 +0 with Z31 front hubs and rear spacer.

Not to plug myself, but I'll be looking at selling my Z31 5 lug hubs in the next few weeks. I'll be stripping the car an going back 4 lug once I get back from Cali for JCCS. I used early Z31 300ZX turbo front hubs with a 30mm rotor spacer made from a modified 5x100 wheel spacer and 5 lug drilled factory rotor. A lot of people that go 5 lug swap to the 4x4 calipers with vented rotors which require a 35mm rotor spacer to address the offset difference in the rotor hats. For the rear I just had the stubs drilled to 5 lug by a local machine shop and drilled the drums to match. All in I'm less than $250.

May have some brackets for $50 plus shipping in a few months. Running a test run on them now. Rear maxima units. Working on the maching aspect as they are starting life out of my waterjet as flat brackets. I believe there is (or was) a group buy for brackets. Go check the group buys and see.

I'm not sure about it on 240Z's because I think the early early models and the later ones were different? I can't remember if '73 was also different as that was the last year before the 260Z. My car is a '76 280Z and I had no issues. The two boosters were exactly the same size ('76 versus '83). Because I know some year 240Z's can't run certain things because of how everything is positioned. But I just don't know enough to be of any help with those. Someone with better knowledge of the earlier chassis' would have to chime in.

I understand. Smart thinking. My pedal was soft with all new hardware as well so I just did the '83 stuff. I didn't see you say you replaced your master cylinder or bled it. These things been done?

Stock one cools just fine. Just modify the upper and lower radiator hose.

Are you sure your booster is bad and not some other issue? Only time I've seen a booster go bad is if the master cylinder leaks brake fluid back in there and it sits in there for a while. Could always find one from a junkyard. There are always a few Z's through my local yards a year. Where I got my '83 booster. Then just ordered a rebuilt master from eBay for $30 something shipped. There's always ZX's through or being parted out on local CL ads. Z32 requires re-bent lines but is nice because the proportioning valve is built in. But without the calipers to match I'm not sure how that works; the bias would be all out of wack.

The only reason for the booster swap with the '82 - '83 master cylinder is to allow it to bolt right up to the car. There is no performance advantage to the booster. It's just like putting a 15/16 master on a stock car more or less. Booster plays no effect other than merely allowing the master cylinder to bolt on.

I've been to SEMA the past 2 years. Not planning to this year as my annual trip out west is to JCCS.

They're wide ZG's from the now closed Zforce productions. Tire's are 205/50/15. Not my permanent wheel but I had them laying around after I sold my wheels so I thought why not. I was going to run 15" BBS RS wheels, but they got lost in shipping somehow. I got a refund though. So I guess now maybe a 17x10 17x12.

I believe you can switch the dipstick tube to the rear on the 25. I know for a fact on the RB20 (as thats what I have), and I would assume the other RB's as well, there is a plug where a factory rear sump dipstick tube would go. Locate that plug (little bit back from the stock dipstick location), drive it out, put the dipstick in there, and drive the plug in the front dipstick hole. Is your engine running aftermarket engine management? Since you said mostly stock I would assume not. If thats the case, is your ECU tuned for vent to atmosphere BOV? The loss of air on a MAF car can really screw with the stock ECU and cause it to want to cut off on decel. You didnt say this was an issue but I'm just curious. Check for boost leaks though. Looks like you have a lot of intercooler couplers; lots of places for boost leaks. Something might open up under boost. Not saying thats what it is but it's an easy check. As for the shop in LA can't be much help there. Sort of on the other side of the US.....

Finally got new tires mounted and bolted up. Conquest 16x9 +0 with a 1.5" spacer in the rear and Z31 5 lug hubs in the front.

Can the ECU your running operate both high and low impedance injectors? Stock RB20 are high but GTR 440's are low. Also curious about the ECU youre using. Difficult to tell from the post. And to reach 400-450, I think your MAF and turbo will hold you back. Those stock turbos are only good to around 10-12psi to be safe (you can go higher but you'll nearly be out of the efficiency range and youll eventually blow the turbo). Most people swap to the Z32 MAF for higher HP. I've never seen over 250-300 with the stock 20 MAF. Not saying it hasn't been done, I've just never seen nor read of one, and the Z32 is a simple swap. Just need to adjust the tune for it.

Now, what everyone is going to tell you is just get a 15/16 master from a '79-'81 ZX. But as those are nearly impossible to find now for cheap, you have a few options. I'm not sure about the 240Z's (I think the master cylinders for brake and clutch are closer than the later model S30's?), but you said '73 and I think this is only an issue on the earlier models. You can get a Wilwood (forget the part number. It's in the sticky'd thread about brake upgrades) that only needs the holes oval-ed out a little and the fittings swapped from standard to metric threads off your stock master. But what I'm doing with my disc swap (4x4 front calipers and rear maxima disc) is swapping a '82-'83 280ZX master cylinder and booster. The reason you need to swap the booster is because the master cylinder on the later model ZX's mounts 90 degrees from the stock master. With the booster swap, all you do is remove the spacer and flip it 180 degrees and it bolts on and allows you to use the later master cylinder. These can be found a whole lot easier than the early model master cylinders these days. Picture is courtesy of a thread on Zdriver. If you're set on Z31/Z32 stuff, there are a few members on here and other Z forums that have done the swap. I remember seeing a writeup on a Z32 master and booster swap, but can't remember where. You have to make new hard lines for it.

I think I'm having the same issue with my Carl H ECU. It runs the mods I have alright I guess but the AFR's are too lean (around mid 15-16). So I'll probably be going NISTUNE at some point. I basically have the same mods as mtnickel but on a RB20 and Holset HY. Just need to find a tuner close to me or a tune to put on it from someone that has the same mods. So I'm interested as well.

You should be able to take it to a reputable local exhaust shop and tell them what you need. Its just stainless welding. They'll probably have to change around some of the runners so that they can get a weld bead all the way around on each runner. But nothing too bad. And it would probably end up being cheaper than shipping it somewhere to be done. That is a problem I've seen with the aftermarket "off-brand" top mount manifolds. If you're running anything bigger than the stock turbo you may have issues with the valve covers fitting properly. You could always clearance your valve cover. There was a guy (forgot to save the pics) who actually notched his valve cover. I know Big-Phil had to grind some material off of his valve cover to get his GT35 to clear.

Nice to see another RB20 swapper out there. If you dont have any wiring in the car it would be beneficial for future use of the car to get a harness in there. Like a body harness. Its nice to have working gauges to monitor all the engine vitals and such. Even as a true track car you usually need at least taillights. To just get the engine to start and run, as if it were on an engine stand, you'll probably need to do some wire tracing on the loom for the RB. ECU power, ground, and a few other power wires and grounds I'm sure. Fuel pump will need power and ground. Starter will need power as well and some sort of switch or a friend with a jumper to engage it.

My new wheel setup. Been through Rota RBR's, Riverside mondisch, Diamond racing, and 280ZX 6 spokes between them all. Eventually want to get to SSR reverse mesh. But I'll get there.

I know its an old thread, but I remembered it when I stumbled on the advertisement for the air dam. 1 tuff Z is on the money. Its made by Kamei.