rb26zed

My Rb-r's came back from the painters yesterday. I got mine from Otomoto as Im in Australia. They only stock steel grey. I had them repainted in a deep metallic charcoal with white pearl. http://www.otomoto.com.au/showroom.htm

My arms arrived yesterday and look great, thanks Zraceproducts. Must not be that far out in the sticks.

Ha ha... Yeah sort of. Ha ha yaeh um I mean shortly in aus post time, maybe 3 weeks fingers crossed, Usually priority air mail advertised at 3-7 days to aus takes around 2 weeks.

They look good by the way dragonfly cant wait for mine.

Yes he rang this morning (last night there) and all is sorted out. They are on the way now. Thanks for the help dragonfly. I was'nt concerned about them being late as I expect to wait for these type of specialty parts to be made sometimes, but when I got no reply to my email then went to the site and it was closed I got a shudder down my spine as you would understand. But it was just a coincidence that his site was down temporarily. I am still happy with the service and expect I will be just as happy with the parts when they arrive shortly.

I ordered a set of stage 3 rear arms on the 10th of december and paid for them and priority shipping to Australia (3-7 days) I still hav'nt received them or had a reply about them. Thats about $1000us. Now the website seems to be suspended and I have no way of contacting him. Could someone please PM me another way to contact him preferrably email.

On the weight difference I havnt weighed either but although the stock setup is rather heavy I have lugged around many s13/14/r32/33/GTR/300zxtt brake and axle assembleys to be confident they are certainly heavier than the Z setup. But the other benefits outweigh the weight penalty in my opinion.

I actually had a part very similar made early last year to suit the exact same parts except it is one piece machined to shape not welded. Mine is made to suit a bolt on coilover though like a s13 front, or as im using, a GTiR pulsar rear (probably called something else in US) I hadnt mentioned it yet as I havnt done any of the other bits like control arms, axles and diff cradle. Good to see someone else on the same wave as me. It looks good by the way.

The site where the picture is from says it is a modified aftermarket lip. I have been to that site countless times, it has been an inspiration to me. What a beautiful zed. Sorry, he doesnt mention what type of lip it is that he used though, but I have done a small amount of research on it as I was considering the same lip myself, and it appears to be the common air dam with some of the middle cut out and re-fibreglassed. By common I mean the one you will see on most sites mentioned on hybridz.

This is correct, I have a late '32 rb26 and it is not drilled.

Yes it can, and excellent write up Boostd3.

That would have to be an R33 then.

Thats the info from the other thread.

I dont know which motor you are talking about but if it is a 26 I remember a thread that said you could tell by the engine number and it had the number that split the early R32 to the late R32/33 blocks. I cant think of any other reason you would need to know.

Mine was a beautiful recently restored '71 240 when I bought it, no rust and drove nice. Tore it down within two weeks of buying it and stuck it on the rotissarie to build it right and put the '26 in. Been a year and a bit and still on the rotissarie.

I flew from Brisbane to Sydney, hired a hire car, drove one and a half hours and I had'nt even seen a picture of it yet, then I bought it on the spot and drove it home, a 12 hour drive. And I would (and probably will) do it again. It was a '71 240.

The RB25DET/R33, Z32, R32GTR and R33 GTR Gearbox internals are identical. R34 5 speed box's will be the same aswell. The simillarities between these boxes are as a whole gearset as there may be some minor differences with ratios and synchros. Strength wise they are the same. R32/RB20DET are different they are the same as SR20 and CA18 boxes.

Yes they are aluminium, I had a choice between them and steel ones but was assured by the race shop (they deal with stock car racing) that they would be strong enough. Would the steel ones be strong enough or would you recommend something else, chromoly has been suggested to me but it is rather expensive, do you know of a source for 5/8 threaded or threadable rod (I have L/H and R/H taps) that would be strong enough.

That is just a test bolt up to get the car rolling to take to the cage shop. I plan to raise the inner Lca mount, use spacers where needed and that is not the steering rack or crossmember that will be used. Im still waiting for my custom rack and want to wait till I have all the parts before I focus on the geometry. The rack will not be in the position of the one pictured. I should also point out that the coilovers are set to near their lowest possible setting at the moment, for no reason, they will be set correctly later as will the camber, caster and toe. I have read quite a few of your ackerman and geometry threads jmortenson,tube80z and johnc and do plan to incorperate alot of your ideas into it before final fit. The main reasons for the swap were brakes, bolt in coilovers and 5 stud.

pics http://groups.msn.com/rb26zed/shoebox.msnw?Page=1

I found it quite easy to drill the new holes and cut an opening for the camber adjusting bolts where the original holes were. I suppose it would be possible to do it the techtoy way though, but I have not seen them before so it would just depend if the coilover you choose will accept the techtoy top. Working on that now. The aftermarket Lca's should be fine but since the s13 has a front mounted caster rod they are shorter than the zed and to gain caster are designed to go shorter you could use them but would need to replace the threaded tube section with a longer piece. I used Afco 5/8 unf threaded tube cut them to size and tapped them to suit and got some caster rods from an old 80's skyline had a machine shop cut them down and thread the ends. I also converted to 5 stud by using nissan maxima rear hubs with spacers, you could avoid spacers by using s14 front hubs but these are hard to get over here. My parts list for the caster rods was, $AU caster rods (almost any nissan ones will do) $0 machine and thread caster rods $80 (pair) rod end 5/8 unf female $50 (pair) threaded tube $25 taps to rethread tube R/H 5/8 unf $20 L/H 5/8 unf $200 locking nuts $2 5/8 bolts for rod end $5 3/4 bolts to hold clevis to original caster rod hole $5 5/8 id alloy tube for spacers $5 clevis cut from 2" square tube I had plenty of other use for the taps to justify their price

Do you know if they come in any other sizes, like 17x9?

ha ha no problem i'll take some and get them up asap.

I am doing the swap you are talking about right now. I used the whole hub, brake and arm assembly from an s13 (with r33 discs and callipers) with a racing logic coilover. I had to redrill the strut towers to accept the camber tops, swap the left to the right and vice versa because the s13 has a rear mounted steering rack and have made adjustable s13 lca's and adjustable s13 caster rods both are on car adjustable and use rod ends. It will bolt straight up to the original lca's and caster rods. So to answer your question it is possible and is not a very difficult swap.

I love those wheels, loved them ever since I saw them on on3go's car. So you didnt like the MSA CF ZG flares, what didnt you like about them and how bad were they? I had seen that people were not happy with the showcars parts but hadnt heard anything about MSA. I was just about to order some CF ZG's CF hood and a urethane airdam from MSA until I read this. Is the CF hood good quality? I live in australia and was quoted $860 shipping so returning them would be out of the question.