jimzdat

oops--guess that would help, huh? Mine was on the left side--at the bottom of the dash, the steel frame forms a little "shelf" along the bottom edge--there is a small box mounted on top of it, midway between the column and the door jamb--should have 2 wires connected to the top of it (I think they are red/white, fairly small gauge wires, but not sure)--unplug that and it will shut up. Or, you can remove the plastic cover from the bottom of the steering column to expose the ignition switch--there is the main harness that plugs into the back of it, and a smaller harness that attaches to the side, towards the end where you put the key in (again, you'll see those red wires)--unplug that and it'll have the same effect--there is a small switch inside the ignition assembly that tells the car when the key is in the ignition and the door is open--either the switch in the ignition is screwed up, or the secondary circuit on your door switch is grounded (there are actually 2 switches built into the drivers door pin switch--but that wiring is even harder to get to) I'd try and get pics for you, but my car is in a million pieces right now, so it wouldnt help Jim

IIRC the noisebox is under/behind the dash, just below where the dash light resistor switch is--kinda a pain to get to. Has 2 terminals on top You can either unplug the box, or the 2 small wires that go up to the ignition switch--it sounds like the key buzzer switch is FUBAR, and making the buzer stay on maybe?

Remove the trim panel around the heater controls/vents When you get that off, you'll see the vent "diffuser"--big plastic vent thingy in the way--there are 2 screws (1 per side) with the heads facing you--take those out There are 4 screws (2 each side) that hold little brackets in place--take those out (sometimes these scrwes are a PITA) Take the diffuser thingy out of the dash you should now be able to get all 3 of the gauges in the center out, just by removing the straps, and bringing them down. Removing the whole dash is a little harder--there are a bunch of screws along the bottom of the windshield--gotta remove them There are 2 brackets that attach from the transmission tunnel to the dash--they gotta go too Unbolt the steering column and let it lay on the floor (or as far down as it'll go) Most of the electrical connectors under the right side of the dash will need to be unplugged There are some wires on the drivers side that go to the door jamb switch--they have to be undone also Couple more screws on each side, at the ends of the dash (Where it meets the kick panels) It helps to remove the center console and shifter, in case you havent already Thats all I can come up with from my feeble memory--if you run into more problems, post em and we'll see if we cant figure it out Jim

Basically, everything from the dash forward is pretty much the same--the 2+2 doors are about 6 inches longer, so they aren't gonna fit --you have to remember that the 2+2 was considerably longer than the 2 seater model Not sure about the tail light assemblies, but I do believe that they are the same Most everything from the dash back is (at the very least) a little different, except maybe the seats If you have any other Q's go ahead and post em--maybe it's been asked before, maybe it hasn't I might be able to help a little on the 2+2 models, as that's all I've owned for the last 13 years Jim

Guy up there is selling an older Bronco that I'm considering--depending on what it looks like in pics he is going to be sending, I may end up buying it--anyone in the area that might be able to take a look at it for me and let me know if I should run away screaming? TIA, Jim

Try this: http://www.mailwasher.net/ Haven't used it myself, but it has some good reivews--might be worth the free download

While the plug is appreciated , hold off for a little while on making a link to it--once Uncle Sam sends me my refund, I'm getting my own domain, and I'll be moving the list over there

ttt--since I posted this late last nite

Many forum software packages allow a "View Posts Since Last Visit" option, instead of just "Today's" topics--is this something missing in the UBB software, or just not turned on? I may be in the minority, but it's kind of a pain to try and wade thru every section of the forum when I go out of town for a few days, be nice if I could just click on a link to see everything I missed--might be a few pages, but at least they would be all together. I know that both Snitz and phpBB forums offer it, don't know about UBB--but UBB can be converted to phpBB fairly easily--just don't know what our server's capabilities are. Just wondering, Jim

Mike-sorry to see it have to go, but you gotta have your own priorities. Let me know when you want the site changed to reflect the shutdown, and I'll just put a placeholder up in case you ever want to try it again (if you're gonna keep the webspace that is) Good luck in your endeavors, Jim

OK, from the 2002 rulebook, E.T. class: "Cars running 10.99 or quicker that weigh more than 2000 pounds with IRS without upper and lower (both) control arms must replace swing axle differential with conventional differential housing assembly. Cars with IRS using upper and lower (both) control arms may retain swing axle assembly regardless of weight or e.t." That is for Super Pro, Pro, Sportsman classes, running 7.5 or slower Looks like you'll have to switch out that axle to compete in NHRA--sorry BTW, it also states that you must retain at least on operating hydraulic shock absorber per wheel--rigid mounted suspensions are prohibited The rule book also has contact info for the various divisional directors and tech leaders--they may be able to tell you if the strut will act as a control arm, but I honestly dont think it will count--if you want to call them, let me know what state you are in and I'll post the info if you need any of the other specs, let me know and I'll look em up for you

Yes the password is a very basic thing, just to keep auto bots out of it--so far I've had no complaints, and in fact, the MG site it is modeled after didnt even do that much, but I dont know if they had problems or not As far as getting on the list, if you go to the Helper's page, there is a link at the top which takes you to the registration form--it then sends me an email, and I go in and update the HTML (slow process, but it keeps the file sizes down on my free webspace) I emailed SuperDan once about linking to it from here, but I think it may have gotten lost somewhere, since I never heard back

I've got the 2002 rulebook sitting on my desk, but I'm not exactly sure what class the Z fits in--if someone knows that info, I'll get you the exact specs out of the rulebook

If you just don't have the webspace, email me the pics--I've got extra room on some of my sites, and I'll post em and send you a link

Hey Scottie--I don't know jack about Saab's (been lucky enough to never accept a job working on one) but I did find this off google: Saab VIN Secret Decoder ring!

Actually, it will tend to foul the plugs faster--on the early SU carbs, pulling the choke caused the nozzle (the part the needle slides inside of) to drop almost a 1/4 inch, in essence richening the mix--it also kicked the throttle plates open, but only if you pulled back all the way, or had the cables adjusted wrong. I am assuming we are talking about the early carbs judging from the "mix screw thingy" comment above--the later carbs did not operate the same way The "funky round tool with tube and bubble" is a UniSyn--you place it over the airhorn of the carb, adjust the disc in the center so that the bubble moves up to a certain point (up to you--I usually went to the halfway mark)--then you place it on the other carb (without adjusting the center disc) and adjust the second carb to match the airflow of the first I'm sure someone can give better directions, I'm going off of memory here. May want to go to a local VW shop (if you have one) and talk to the guys that work on old bugs--they run multiple carbs on those all the time, and in fact, that's where I bought my unisyn

Also consider going to www.ztherapy.com and ordering the "Just SU" video--4 hours of info on rebuilding and tuning the SU carbs I had the video when I had a SU equipped car, and found it to be a very useful tool, and well worth the 20 bucks

For stroker kits, try www.speedomotive.com They may not be the cheapest, but they've been around a while and know what they are doing There's cheap mods you can do to tweak a 351W too--I have one in my truck, and I installed a 302 cam (more low-end torque) and 302 heads (smaller combustion chamber=raised compression)--only catch is the bolt holes in the head needed to be enlarged since the 351 uses larger bolts than the 302. The plus side of all that is I now own a F350 that can smoke the tires when it hits second gear--usually gets peoples attention

The username and password are "hybridz" --I put it in a different post, but it's probably been buried I got your info--might be a day or two before I can get everything updated

ttt--just so everyone sees it

Please read the new post in this forum about the password protection for the list!

OK, gang--at the request of a few of our members, I have put a simple password protection on the helper's list. The previous links will now take you to the login page (if they don't, you need to hit "refresh", cause you're looking at an old page) The login is: Username: hybridz Password: hybridz Like I said, it's a real simple script, but it should keep email grabbers out (I hope) HybridZ Helper's list Also, there may be a slight delay in my being able to update the page for a few days, as I will be moving to Ohio

So far, there has been no plan to host it on this site--I am hosting it on one of my personal sites If you want to check out the list, click here: HybridZ Helpers list There is a link on that page to enter your data, which takes a day or two, depending on my work schedule

Good point Bob, I did not check the search before I posted--but have now, and for me, it is not working--but I chalk that up to problems I've been having for awhile, since installing Netscape7 I'll freely admit, it bugs me sometimes when it appears people are putting absolutely ZERO effort into research, just coming in and asking for the answers. Saw that happen all the time while I was in the Navy, and it drove me nuts back then So I guess I can see where you are coming from

Got a few more additions while I was out of town (job interview in Ohio) Still got plenty of room to add in all you guys not on there yet BTW--has anyone heard from SuperDan? tried emailing him about getting a link on the main page, and hadn't heard anything yet (emailed him from work, so there may be a response there--hope I'm not jumping the gun here)