deMideon

Thanks grumpy but I wasn't asking about the steam holes. It does have those drilled in. There are 2 water passeges that don't line up that I am concerned about... please refer to pic... Sorry I don't know how to get it to just come up like yours

Sorry for grabbing this thread, but Phantom, I've been wanting to find out.. the MSA SCCA bar for the 280, how far back is the main loop? I'm pretty tall so I tend to lean my seat back and I would hate to have it anywhere near to where I might be able to bang my head into it! Thanks!!!

Thank you! I did try that and the tech support person didn't even ask which passeges I was talking about, he just said "that's Ok". So I don't trust the blow off. Maybe I will try talking to John...

Figured I had to rephrase my earlier question since I didn't get any responses ... I have Canfield 195 heads that I am putting on my 400, and I was checking them with the head gaskets. The holes in the gaskets line up perfectly with the holes in the block. But when I checked the heads, there are 2, what look like water passeges in the head, that are about 50% blocked by the gasket/block. So I need to know if this is a problem or not. I can angle the holes so they do line up ok. I'm just not sure if I should. Here is a picture of the passages I am talking about: http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/demidion/detail?.dir=/My+Z+Cars-My+75+280Z+with+a+377+-2&.dnm=554e.jpg Thanks!

LOL been that way a long time! Thanks!!

Sorry I didn't get back to everyone... Thanks for the responses, yes love-my-V8-280Z, I would really appreciate you sending the pdf to me! I am such an idiot! I started this thread then tried to scan my schematic, my flat scanner is broken and my scanner/fax/printer is too small! So I really could use yours, it is of a 280 right?

Thanks! Hopefully I'll have it together and in soon.... of course then I have to finish the electrical oh yeah I have to put all of the brake and fuel lines back in etc etc etc... ughh...

It's the software HP I got from dyno 2000, so flywheel hp. Here's the setup! 400 block bored 40 over Scat 9000 crank, 400 mains, internally balanced, 3.5 stroke for 6" rods Scat 6" I beam rods w 7/16" bolts Keith Black 194 pistons 10.7:1 w/ 64 cc heads Canfield heads - 59.2 cc chambers Intake - 2.02 Exhaust - 1.60 head flow numbers: .1 - 63.5 .1 - 50.5 .2 - 130 .2 - 94 .3 - 185 .3 - 128 .4 - 237 .4 - 151 .5 - 252 .5 - 165 .6 - 253.5 .6 - 175 .65 - 255 .65 - 179 .7 - 256.5 .7 - 182 cam is CRANE 114681 (Thanks again Grumpy!!) Also have a vic jr port matched intake, an aluminum flywheel, and a 6 1/4" (I think) SFI approved balancer. I should have it in the car this spring, so we'll see what it really is!

I am building it to top out at about 6500 max. I have learned from being on this board that I would have been better off doing a stroked 400 vs destroking. I really don't gain as much as I thought. But, it will still put out about 450hp in a reliable streetable engine! I was where you are at with the L28, I had 13:1 venolia pistons, polished ported head... etc etc... kinda fun to drive but just not real streetable or reliable. So that's why I am doing the sbc.

If you are rebuilding it or building a stroker... it's very easy to get a new crank and have it internally balanced. I am building a 377ci (destroked 400) and that's what I did. Gives you a lot better choices.

I am getting ready to bolt the heads on my 400 block and was checking the heads, gaskets, block etc... and I noticed that there are a couple of what look like water passeges that don't quite line up correctly. They are about 50% blocked, I called Canfield and they said " oh that's fine" hmmmm. So I wanted to ask you guys. The two passages are here with the arrows: http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/demidion/detail?.dir=/My+Z+Cars-My+75+280Z+with+a+377+-2&.dnm=554e.jpg Thanks!

Well first off, it's a really good deal if the motor hasn't been bored out too much. That would be my only concern. It's easier to get power out of than a 350 since it's bigger, pretty much just as cheap to build as a 350 since almost all of the parts are interchangable. The only thing I would really recommend to anyone doing a 400 is get a new crank and have it internally balanced, it gives you a lot more flywheel options.

It really depends on how tall you are! I asked a similar question a little while ago and never got a clear answer. I am 6'3" and really can't change the amount of head room available to me. So I have to do some serious mods to any seat I have found that I want to put in.

I seem to remember that there is a program out there that will take a large scale page (say E size) and break it into letter size pages that you can then tape together. Anyone have any idea what I am talking about?

Also depends on which trans you use... I am using the T-56 so I have to go with a different bellhousing, since with the stock one, the slave cylinder will stick out in the way of the collector. Of course there are many other reason I am using the weir bellhousing! I would also suggest getting a new crank and having it internally balanced so you will have a wider selection of flywheels!

I will be using it also. I've bought it I just haven't gotten to putting it together yet. I've got it for 2 reasons, 1st I wanted to use a light flywheel. The Weir product gives you a much wider range of flywheels you can use. Also the pull type clutch is expensive and there are not many choices. 2nd, I really want to use a long header, the stock slave cylinder would get in the way, the assembly stick out right in the path of the header. I also don't like what you have to do to use the stock slave cylinder, so just another reason.

I looked at the Corbeau as well... they say they are 20 inches wide at the bottom... I just can't see how they could sit low enough. Anyone have any experience with them?

I need a seat for my 280, I have a set of seats for it but they are too wide / high. I am 6' 3" so the installed height needs to be like the original seats were, so I have headroom. And yes I do know I could get another original seat! I would like something that has better side and thigh support. Anyone have any ideas? I know a lot of people are talking about the Miata seats, but I saw one post where someone said it did cut down the amount of headroom. Do they?

Thanks Baracu, that showed it perfectly! I can still use the holes through the firewall but doing an elbow will work great!

I wanted to see if anyone that has done the swap into a 280Z has had any problem with the stock air conditioner line routing. It looks like where it comes through the firewall may be a problem... does it work? Do I have to move the lines over more? Thanks!!!

I did / am doing a number of things. My Z was also completely stripped. I first used truck bed liner on all of the surfaces. It's thick and will help deaden sounds and seal things too! I then put brown bread on all vertical panels to reduce the vibration. Next I glued aluminum faced insulation (JcWhitney) over all of it. This stuff also works on the floor, so I am glueing it everywhere!

The best way I know of to make sure what block it is, is to look up the numbers that are on the block. That will tell you exactly what you have. I don't remember the website for it though. I am sure someone on here has it!

I would recommend getting a SCAT crank and have it internally balanced so you can use the cheaper and much more widley available flywheels and clutches! I did this, it's much easier and cheaper. I got a very light Hays flywheel and centerforce clutch.

Thanks everyone for the replies! I guess I will think about this a little more... I would hate to have to run a 1/2" back for the return, I figured I would be able to use the 3/8" stock one for that.... hmmmm.

You can also use the Weir bellhousing and hydraulic throwout bearing, this allows you to use a "normal" clutch and flywheel. It also removes the slave from sticking out on the side and interfering with the exhaust.