deMideon

Cool! Thanks!!! Next hopefully someone can help me finish the hookup without the PCM!

Oh!!! Sorry about that! I thought you meant on the gauge... ok... next question is which connector on the transmission is it? I am pretty sure I know which is the reverse lockout, but have no idea which of the other ones is right.

I have an autometer as well... I know which wire on the meter... that parts easy, I need to know where it goes on the T-56 and what to connect the other wire to. Like I said, I don't have a PCM.

Heh.. I should have mentioned... my T-56 doesn't have any of the connectors on it so I don't have any wires. Also I have a 377 sbc so no PCM either!

Ready to hookup my speedometer (have an electronic!), not sure where to run the wires to, also need to know... I would assume there will be 2 wires, one side will go to the speedo, the other to +12v. Anyone know? Thanks!!

Does anyone have the Spicer parts numbers for the u joints?

Oh good!! .001 will work! I just checked and it's more like 1/4" clearence. Thanks everyone!!

I am using the JTR mounts and Sanderson block huggers. I had to cut the motor mounts a bit and I think they are Ok, but the headers are pretty close (about 1/4") and I need to know how much distance I need. I would hate to get on it hard and no longer be able to steer! I will post some pics very shortly (Gotta take them first!) Thanks!

Huh... not a bad idea, I had to trim my plate a little bit for clearence from my header... and my rubber motor mount hit the steering shaft and I had to trim a little off of there too! It would have been a little cleaner to put the plate against the engine...

Another option is to go with a 280Z, a lot more structural reinforcment than the 240.

Here is the window felt I used... cheap and easy to get!: http://www.jcwhitney.com > > The catalog item number for the part is 18GA-4874U. > > Now here's the tricky part. The letters in the catalog number can be > different depending on which issues of the JC Whitney catalog your looking > at. But if you call the order line and tell > the person you want part # 18-4874, you'll get the right stuff. It's > description is "Rubber Window Channel 9/16 " x 17/32 ". It comes in an 8-ft. > piece. Which is almost enough to do > both sides, but not quite. So, you have to order 2 pieces. The price when I > ordered was $6.99 each.

Well it sounds like I will be getting aluminized steel. Won't last as long but it's really cheap and I can do it myself and make it fit right and weld it!

Hmmm... I have a cheap welder. Always has done what I've needed, but it doesn't have gas, just wire. Will that still work?

Ok that last post made me think about building my own exhaust out of stainless, but I will need to weld it. I only have a wirefeed welder. Can I use this to do it?

I got the Weir bellhousing for 3 reasons...one that was mentioned here already.. in the end it will be cheaper since the pull type Camaro clutch is very expensive. I also wanted to use a lightweight flywheel. Not many options available for the Camaro and everything was expensive. 3rd the slave cylinder on the stock bellhousing sticks out very far and many interfere with how I want to run my exhaust.

I don't know if copper or the solder would react with gasoline... I wouldn't think so but figured I would ask...

Well, I found 2" inner diameter fuel transfer hose at McMaster-Carr for $8.13 a foot, part # 56315K53.. this is a soft wall tube that sounds like what I'll need, although I still need to know if the 2" copper pipe will work!

I'm installing my fuel cell and working on how to hook it up to the fuel filler on the outside of the car. I have a 280Z so I have a few inches of space under the rug to work with. I am thinking of using 2" copper tubing for most of it and isolating it from vibration with some (fuel resistant) rubber tubing. I'm not 100% sure if copper or the solder has any problem with gas, Also wondering if anyone has better ideas? Thanks!!

Yeah definately do something about the rust first, and make sure everything is painted. The bedliner is made to go over painted sufaces. I have done the same thing, Now I don't mind the weight gain since I am using it for sound deadening too and I am going to have 450hp to push around the extra weight!! I am also going to paint over the bedliner and then use an undercoating over everything.... I really want to make sure things don't rust... but then I am in Illinios where they use salt on the roads!

Hopefully it is a 280Z! For a cheap, quick conversion it's the better one, since the body and frame rails are much heavier. So it can handle more HP with less mods.

Thanks! Heh part of the reason I don't want the trim is that I don't want to have to put it back in! Guess I will just leave it out and see what it looks like.

I have the precision gaskets for the glass, but I wanted to install them without the chrome pieces. One book I have said to cut off the lips, but I know that if I tried it, it would look terrible (I would never get it smooth!). Is it Ok to install the gasket inside out??? I think that would give me a smooth look on the outside with the lip inside. What do you all think? Anyone have any other ideas?

Yes you are correct! When Canfield designed the heads they put a lot of reinforcement into them. That ends up meaning that there are no passeges to drill into where the other 2 steam holes would go. I know people that have used Canfield heads on 400s and have had no problem with just using 4 steam hole instead of 6. I assume that it aloows enough water to flow to prevent the hot spots.... but I am still going to use "water wetter"!!

Thanks for the info! When I had my 240 that's where it also had one and it just worked! Those chassis work cages look real nice, I am going to have to contact them and find out where their main hoop goes!

Ok... thanks! I was just worried !