deMideon

Electrical problems suck! But the first thing to check are your grounds. The easiest one to get to is in the engine compartment just forward of the battery along the bottom of the fender. Clean it very well, I even went as far as adding a wire from that ground to the battery so try to give everything an extra path to go. Don't know if it helped, but cleaning it up sure did, also I believe there is a ground from you battery to the chassis right on the firewall. That's another one to clean up. Good luck!

Thats what I was considering doing, esp in the front. How much did it lower your car?

I understand some people have gone from the strut insulator to a mono ball setup. Does this lower the car at all? Is it useable with the stock spring setup vs coilovers? I did something similar years ago on my 510, where I removed the rubber and using a steel plate moved the bearing cup against the bolts. Lowering the car significantly and it made the steering easier and more precise. So I guess I am also wondering if anyone has done this and what the effects were ??? Thanks!!!

I have a question on this too... On a 510 I had I removed the insulating rubber at the top of the strut where it mounts to the body and fabricated a new seat for the bearing. On the 510 it gave me about a 1 1/2" drop and removed a significant amount of flex. Has this been done on the Zs? How much of a drop do you get? How significant is the flex? Thanks!

I just bought a set from carparts.com which is now owned by JC Whitney. Very easy to find the parts too!

Cool guages, what brand are they?

I just went through this and came up with an easy solution. I went to WalMart and got a 12 gauge shotgun cleaning tool. The wire brush part and the tube / handle. I then connected it to my drill and using some WD40 ran it inside the bore. It took about 5 minutes but got it so clean the pins slide in very smoothly!!! I also found out that the pins only go in one way! The spot for the lock pin doesn't line up if you put it in wrong.

What about the "Rust Converter" that turns black, does that actually work too?

THAT"S IT!!!! That's what I needed to find out! Thank you!!!

I am trying to find info on TRW L2352 pistons. I can't seem to find any info.I know they are for building a 377 and they are forged, but I don't know how much of a dish they have etc.... Thanks!

I do know of the book but I don't have it. Would you be able to post a few of the numbers? Thanks!!

Oh yeah, I would like to see flow numbers of a ported E-31 too! Thanks!1

Does anyone have the flow numbers for a stock (preferably E-31) head? Thanks

I've been kinda smart ( don't ask my wife that! ), I bought a completely torn apart 78 280 and I have been slowly putting it together for a SBC 377 swap. I also have a parts car. But I can never truley settle with what I am going to do until it's done, and then only maybe!! So while I hope to have it on the road this summer I am probably dreaming!!

The best place I have found is True Value hardware store. They have a better selection than any other stores!

Afraid the defroster idea won't work well. Antennas are tuned to specific frequency bands by their length. You can see this in the length of the window antennas on other cars. They are very short compared to the length of the lines in the defroster.

Here is the thread! http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=8;t=000967 It's what I am going to do, when and if I ever get to that point!

I just recently bought a scat crank for my 377 build. Scat told me all of their cranks require balancing. I had mine inernally balanced so I would have more flywheel options, as I am running a T-56.

Thanks for all of the input. I really wish I knew who did the work though! That would help a lot! I really think it was someone that really knew what they were doing. In order to use the big springs, all of the spring seats are machined down. This is definately a full race head.

Because it's pretty toxic, I painted my Z outside, I did build a "paint booth" though. I used a light wood frame and covered it with plastic sheets (paint drop cloths from WalMart!). Mainly I wanted to keep as much dust off as possible.

The only thing that ever made a difference that I've actually noticed with an SU is using very light oil in the slides. I use Marvel Mystery Oil. Gives very good throttle response.

Ugghh I thought it might be like that! I got the head on a roadrace engine for real cheap, but didn't have any info on who did the work. Thanks for the info!!

I have an E-31 head I am planning on selling that has some major work done to it, it's been ported / polished, it's got the NISMO SI 44mm intake valves and the SI 35mm exhaust valves, ISKY springs with modified seats allowing longer travel to prevent binding. This also requires a special ground cam. I am getting it flow tested right now and the spring height/seat pressure measured. My question is how much is this worth?? Anyone have any idea? Thanks!!

How about JC Witney! Part number for standard black is AHA133219Y and I believe it's 6.95 for a 25 foot roll. The also have other colors and heavy duty!

Hmmmm... very interesting !! I really like the idea behind this carb. I've always liked how the SU's work. I'm going to look into this. It may motivate me to add a hood scoop!