deMideon

I have the big ones on the rear of my Z. Depending on the backspacing of the rims you should be able to easily fit 12 inch wide under there.

OC Thank you very much!! I have to strip my 280 down to bare metal. I sanded some spots off and found rust! Whoever painted it last did a very poor job. This will make it much easier!

OC ... Wow that paint remover did a great job! I am having major problems getting all of my paint off. Which could be me applying it wrong, poor remover, or a combination of both! What brand did you use??? How did you apply it?? Thanks I hope to get to where you are soon!!!

Since the "mass" type of sound deadener is so expensive, I am doing a combination. I am using smaller pieces of the mass type and then I am going to cover all of the area with a thin layer of sound absorbing material.

I did this in a 510. I didn't think it was all that hard. Hardest thing it working underthat dash, that always sucks!! You need pedal box as mentioned, you also need the clutch master cylinder, the metal pipe that goes from the master to the slave cylinder, and of course the flexable hose for that too. You need to make sure the trans has the fork, throwout bearing, and slave cylinder. Lastly you need the clutch and flywheel. As I remember the automatic had a spacer behind the flexplate, you need to make sure you remove it! The only thing I can't remember is if the automatic has a pilot bearing. You have to make sure it does!

The 280 I am working on is a prime example of what not to do. It was dipped and not all of the solution was removed and yep it's peeling in places you cant't get to. It really sucks. I was going to get it dipped again and done right but it's just too expensive!

The easiest way (for me anyway!) to track down things like this is to get a light probe. Which has a sharp end to pierce a wire (slightly), a light on it and a wire to go to ground. You can then, using a wiring diagram, and the probe, figure out what happened.In my Z 90% of my problem where because of the fuse block or the wireing the previous owner did. Good luck!

I am looking for a good autocross cam. Someone once mentioned to me that alot of the cams out there are not designed well for the L engines. So I figured I would ask here to see what everone thinks!! Thanks!!

Well in my '73 240Z it's an accessory solinoid, and mine is not funtional so, if that is what it is, then no it probably isn't causing the problem. The questions are, What year is your Z, and what colors are the wires on the other side of the plug? I should be able to look it up for you on the wiring diagram.

My windshield seal is bad and it leaks at the corners and down the firewall and into the carpet!

Thank you very much!!! It explained it very well. I am very glad to have this resource available, it will keep me from making mistakes!

Ok Ok one more question well maybe 2... I understand that you should keep the quench area under .046. What I don't know is what are the negatives I will see if I go larger than that? How much of an impact will it have? Also I had someone at my local machine shop tell me that with a DCR of 8.44:1 and a static ratio of 11.2:1 I will experience alot of run on and will have to retard the timing is that true? I doubt it as they really didn't even want to understand quench area. Thanks!!!

The questions you have to answer first are, how much horsepower, if you are going high you should do subframe connectors, possibly other frame stifening. Next are you going aluminum heads, waterpump etc, JTR setback? If so your initial weight distribution should be slightly better than original. Then you have to figure out how much street time and do you like your kidneys.... Your best bet is to get coilovers, there are a couple of people here that sell them very inexpesivly and can recommend the correct springs for your application. Also if you use the JTR you do need front and rear sway bars, thickness depending on your springs and application. I personnaly autocross and when my V8 Z is done will be AX and drag racing it. I prefer very heavy front and rear sway bars and lighter springs. But thats just me. Hope this helps some.

Wow!! you guys always impress me!!! Thanks Pete, I'm going to take your write up with me to the machinest so I can explain it easily!!!

Ahh no wonder! Good luck with the ISP!

The recent topics stopped working for me recently... is it just me? Also I use Netscape 7.01 if it makes any difference.

Wow!!! Thanks Grumpy! I knew you'd have the info! Thanks for the cam recommendation too!! Sounds like what I will need to do!

Ahh... Ok now I understand... I may be a bit stuck since the heads are 59.2 cc I may have to go more. I got the heads for $800, so it was worth it.... I hope!

I'm going to ask, but now that I think about it, if I do that, I will have to add thickness to the head gasket to keep my compression reasonable won't I? Isn't it the same thing? The area between the head and top of the piston will still have to be a specific size right? Whether it's the head gasket is providing the space or the block..... or am I missing something here?

Good question! I'll have to ask my machinest. Thanks!!!

That's right Mike! That's the problem I am having, I'm not sure how thick the head gasket will need to be to give me a compression ratio that's not too high. But I know someone here has the right formula!

Whoo Hoo! I will have my SBC 377 back soon. So I wanted to find out exactly what thickness of head gasket I should get and of course what you all think of my setup! Grumpy I would really appreciate you running this through your dyno software As far as the head gasket goes, I want to know what thickness so I can run 93 octane gas. Thanks!!! 400 block bored 40 over Scat 9000 crank, 400 mains, internally balanced, 3.5 stroke for 6" rods Scat 6" I beam rods w 7/16" bolts Keith Black 194 pistons 10.7:1 w/ 64 cc heads Canfield heads - 59.2 cc chambers Intake - 2.02 Exhaust - 1.60 .1 - 63.5 .1 - 50.5 .2 - 130 .2 - 94 .3 - 185 .3 - 128 .4 - 237 .4 - 151 .5 - 252 .5 - 165 .6 - 253.5 .6 - 175 .65 - 255 .65 - 179 .7 - 256.5 .7 - 182 CompCam Flat Tappet - 12-676-4 ENGINE SMALL BLOCK CHEVY 265-400 GRIND # CS XS268S-10 DESCRIPTION COMP. FLAT TAPPET CAM INT EXH VALVE ADJUSTMENT .016 .016 GROSS VALVE LIFT .488 .501 DURATION AT .015 TAPPET LIFT 268 274 VALVE TIMING OPEN CLOSE AT .015 INT 28 60 EXH 71 23 THESE SPECS ARE FOR CAM INSTALLED AT 106 INT C/L INT EXH DUR AT .050 230 236 LOBE LIFT .3250 .3340 LOBE SEPARATION 110.0 INT MASTER ID ADVANCE 4 EXH MASTER ID I also have a port matched VicJr intake and will probably go with a Predator carb. and an aluminum flywheel. I also have a T-56 to bolt up!! Yep kinda long, I think it will be a great engine for me, at least for the moment here in my delusional little world! Thanks!!!

Done Heh heh heh, done ... No I definitely don't think it will ever be done. I am right now scaling back my plans to fit my budget..... well Ok, maybe twice the amount of money I have instead of 4 times... , and I still am deluding myself with the idea that it will be driveable this summer! I should have my 377 back from the machine shop in a few weeks!! Whoo Hoo!

Cool! That's what I was thinking!! Sounds like the way to go! Thanks!!

Very nice! Where did you get the hood scoop? That's the kind I have been looking for! Thanks!