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deMideon

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Everything posted by deMideon

  1. I would certainly be willing to. I don't know if my welding skills are up to it though. I'm sure sectioning it would be easy enough... I have a reall nice saws-all!!
  2. Ahhhh!!! (light bulb in head glows dimly!) That's what I was trying to see... I wonder how much it will cost to get it sectioned. Thanks for the picture!!!
  3. So doesn't anyone know if it would work to have S&S send the passenger side with the collector not welded on, and then set the proper angle and have it welded up???? or am I wrong again
  4. If I hear back from anyone on it I would think I could get them with the collector not welded on. Then set it up on the car and get it welded.
  5. 16 lbs steel!! Geez my Hays aluminum is 15 lbs. That's really light. I'm not worried. I have a very light flywheel on my L6 and am very used to driving it around. The instant acceleration and reduction of wheel spin are well worth the weird way I have to drive it!!
  6. Pete, just wondering if you will be using a light flywheel?
  7. And if Andrew gets back to you please post what he did with part numbers!!!
  8. Thanks everyone! I knew you guys would be the ones to ask! Yes price is a big issue! So I will probably pick up some DOM tubing at a steel yard. Thanks!!!
  9. I am going to be building front strut bracing to go from the strut to the area where the sway bar mounts, from the back of the strut down to the frame rail, and from the strut at an angle back to the firewall. I know I saw a picture of this on here a while ago but I can seem to find it! Anyway my question is material. What pipe stock should I use. I was thinking of going to home depot and picking up some "black pipe" (pipe used for natual gas) since that is very thick walled. But before I do I wanted to find out if that would be a mistake!! Thanks!!
  10. Yup, this guy makes custom sway bars for the Z adjustable and his bar sizes can go bigger than anone else I've found! http://sanerperffab.com/
  11. I am pretty certain they are dished... haven't seen them for a long while since it's still at the machine shop. As far as the cam goes I was planning on going with a different one and Pete and Grumpy talked me out of that. Due to the quench height and the cam I was going to use would have made it difficult to run pump gas. Grumpy recommended this one! Sorry about the list... that's the flow numbers of my heads!
  12. Hehe I'd be glad to hear what everyone thinks! Although I did post this not too long ago: 400 block bored 40 over Scat 9000 crank, 400 mains, internally balanced, 3.5 stroke for 6" rods Scat 6" I beam rods w 7/16" bolts Keith Black 194 pistons 10.7:1 w/ 64 cc heads Canfield heads - 59.2 cc chambers Intake - 2.02 Exhaust - 1.60 .1 - 63.5 .1 - 50.5 .2 - 130 .2 - 94 .3 - 185 .3 - 128 .4 - 237 .4 - 151 .5 - 252 .5 - 165 .6 - 253.5 .6 - 175 .65 - 255 .65 - 179 .7 - 256.5 .7 - 182 CRANE 114681 http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=114681&B1=Display+Card I also have a port matched VicJr intake and will probably go with a Predator carb. and a Hays aluminum flywheel. I also have a T-56 to bolt up!! This will be fun ... well at least for a little while! BTW since grumpy didn't post into this I asked him too, I was not getting what I needed to understand and I knew grumpy would give it! Oh and thanks Grumpy!!!!
  13. Absolutley! I am building mine to be able to handle 6500 rpm for when I miss a shift but I want the peak to be around 5000 - 5500. I just want it to get there really fast!
  14. Wow this has been a great thread! I've learned more than I wanted too! I suppose the way I was thinking about the 377 just isn't true. Damn. But it's ok since it will still be a great engine. Not to mention I will be able to stroke it out later when 450hp isn't enough! It's also different than most and I like that too!
  15. Very interesting, the Mcleod has a few options, if you use a 153 tooth flywheel you can buy just the hyd. TO bearing and use the stock bellhousing. That will let you use a push type clutch. That's $300 - $400. The bellhousing is a scatter shield and will be available in about 90 days and cost about $416 retail. That will allow you to use a 168 tooth flywheel. Hmmm having an SFI approved scattershield would be very nice, but I don't know about waiting 90 days. They also said the scattershield is adaptable to other transmissions!
  16. But with our way lighter cars, is that extra torque even usable? I would think the hookup problems it causes would be an issue. Doesn't less early torque but a faster reving engine help overcome the difference?
  17. Thanks!!! I just took a look, sounds very promising. I will call this afternoon and try to get a price. I know Weir is getting about $580 for the belhousing & TO bearing and $70 for the master cyl. So I'll post what Mcleod tells me too!
  18. Has anyone used this yet? I am planning on ordering one very soon and would like to know experiences. For those of you that don't know, this allows you to use a normal clutch / flywheel instead of the pull type. Much cheaper and much better selection. From looking at the pictures it looks like it will also eliminiate the slave cylinder blocking the exhaust pipe problem!!!! They have a website now too! http://www.weirhotrodproducts.com/
  19. Ok, a few questions for you 350 guys, you can certainly build a 350 to rev to the same RPM as a 377, very easily. The question is, if you have a 383 and a 377 next to each other with the same load, the 377 will rev to the RPM limit faster than the 383. It is a faster reving engine since the pistons and rotating assembly has less distance to travel. Right? Also what about the combustion effeciancy increase with the longer rod to stroke, reducing detonation etc (see I looked it up These are the reasons I went with the 377 in the first place. Am I wrong? (I certainly can be!!)
  20. I don't remember the details right now but what did grumpy say about the efficency (???) of the short stroke with long rod??? Or am I just not remembering this right...
  21. Look on e-bay first, ya might get a 400 block there for a good deal, mine was a complete 377 short block for about $950 shipped.
  22. I do agree with gprix on the block! If I had the money I would have done that!
  23. Heh, good question... I'n not sure I want to know how much this thing is costing me! Actually I really haven't kept track! I 've gotten KB 194 pistons for 6 inch rod. I got the rods from scat, the forged 4340 I beam with 7/16"cap screws, and a scat 9000 crank. The crank is really cool since it is 400 mains (no spacers) and for a 6 inch rod. I had the machinest balance it internally so I don't have to deal with the 400 balancer or flywheel. I also found a set of used canfeild aluminum heads that have been pocket ported, those cost $900, which was a great price. I am going to use a cam recommended by grumpyvette, which I will get when I get the engine back. I also have a T-56 trans, so I also need to get a bellhousing from weir, which will let me use a normal flywheel/clutch. I have a centerforce clutch and an aluminum flywheel. I think with all this it will rev really fast and high, and not have too much low end.
  24. It really depends on what you want to do and mostly how much money you have! I am doing a 377, which should be back from the machine shop soon. I decided to go this route since I want a fast/higher reving engine with the power band a bit higher so I don't just sit there and spin. Also I wanted about 450 hp in a reliable, streetable engine. It will be easy for me to have this with the 377. So you have to weigh how much money you have versus what you want to end up with and how much time you want to wait.
  25. Well, I won't say it's a good job, but mine are stronger (and weigh more)! I think I went just a bit over board on strengthing the frame ! I am going to be running 450hp + and I don't want an intrustive roll cage so I figured this is much better! http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/demidion/lst?.dir=/What+Pictures/My+Z+Cars&.src=ph&.view= Take a look under 75 280z / frame work. reminds me I have to take some more pictures!
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