deMideon

I am going with the Weir setup. I can easily find exactly the clutch and lightened flywheel I want and the hydraulics are easier and have a bleeder!!!!

Wow! Amazing amount of work you've done. You are about 30 minutes from me, any chance on getting a look at it sometime?

When I redid mine I had rust in the other sections too! So I went out and got a 12 gauge shotgun cleaning tool (wire brush). Hooked it up to my drill and ran it through a few times with cleaning fluid. Cleaned up all of the rust inside and the new ones slid in easily!!

Do ya know why the British drink warm beer? They have Lucas refrigerators!

Augh worse than I thought. I'll have to figure out something better. Maybe insulate real well, build a mass heat sink, then I can heat the garage and have no flame at all anywhere around it! Thanks for keeping me from being too stupid!!

I cut my shifter myself. It's is kind of a pain, but not that hard. I cut it to the length I wanted, went over to my grinder and VERY carefully ground it to an even circle I could use the tap on. It worked great and didn't cost me anything!

Bump.. no one tried this?

It's not as bad as it sounds... it's in a different area of the garage so it will be safe.

I will be painting my car sometime this winter. I have a garage with a wood stove, so I can easily heat it to any temp. The problem is keeping it heated for any real length of time. So my question is once I spray the car how long do I need to keep the temp above say 60 degrees? Also are there any additives that would be helpful? Thanks!!

I have a 73' 240 that the same thing happened on, although my slop was about 1/4". My thought was if it happened once it can happen again. So I replaced mine (both sides)with the shafts from a 280z. The diameter of the shaft is larger, so it should be stronger.

In addition to the dual exhaust, I will be running about 450hp so I wanted to make sure I had the fuel line out of the tank large enough, and I wanted to set the tank as far forward and a little to the passenger side for better weight distribution!

I was just looking at Pete's relay hookup and I was wondering if anyone has hooked it up so that both the high beam and low beam come on at the same time when you select high beam. It seems to me that it would be that much brighter, and would only take the addition of one diode. Does anyone think it is worth doing that way?

An option I use is mechanical secondaries with slightly heavy springs on the secondaries. This way you know when you are useing them. That way you run 2 barrels when you need good millage and you really know it when you get into the secondary. Of course I get into the secondary waayyy more than I should

Compression is the volume of the cylinder at the bottom of the stroke versus the volume left at the top of the stroke. Adding a turbo increases the amount of air/fuel that comes into that volume. So strictly speaking it is not the same thing. The volume of the cylinder will not change with a turbo. The amount of air pushed into the cylinder by the turbo is variable according to how fast the turbo is spinning. That said, they end up doing similar things. Increasing the compression increases the density of the air / fuel mixture at the top of the stroke, since there is less volume available. A turbo increases the amount of air / fuel mixture in the cylinder, increasing density at the top of the stroke. There are alot of other factors involved (as usual) but hopefully this is a valid basic idea of the difference.

Don't know if you would be interested... but I have a set of Diamond Racing wheels 16 X 10 with Goodyear slicks, about 75% tread left. Rims are in great shape. Let me know!

Well... I guess my first question is what writup are you talking about? I am kinda in your area, drop me a line.

Probably a head gasket or burned valve.

Personnaly, I am using a 280Z. It has alot more stiffening members and heaver sheet metal. I also added frame stiffening. I feel that with the amount of HP I am running I won't notice the additional weight and the overall stiffness compared to a 240 with the same mods is much better, not to mention a bit less drone too!

Wow, alot of questions that are hard to answer. Most of the questions are personal preference. For example: I autoX but I prefer my suspension to be setup with lighter springs and heavier sway bars. I ended up getting custom sway bars that are heavier than normally available. I also am using a destroked 400 (377). More expensive for the block but a much better engine. I'll be able to make a reliable 450 hp. I am also going with a 280Z. I live in an area where the emissions allow me to use it with no problem. It is also built much heavier than the 240Z. I am still reinforcing the frame rails, but it gives me a better platform. The best advice I have is read as many of the posts here and you should be able to get an idea of what you are looking for and that will tell you what to do!

Well, I changed my ignition system while upgrading everything else so I have no real idea. I know I am getting huge sparkes though. As far as the tach, here's an idea, from the 240z.org mail list. I am going to do it soon... well probably later, anyway here's the info! Here's a post from 240Z.org e-mail list, it's not the digital MSD but it may work the same way! After missing a functional tach after my MSD 6A install, I found a post on utilizing a modified 280z tach. I didn't swap the face (kept 280z tach face), I simply performed the following steps: Remove 280z tach from tach housing (280z units are attached to dash differently). While you have the 280z unit exposed, find the medium sized resistor under the tach signal/input feed and jump it w/a small wire using a solder gun (believe resistor was brown w/some stripes...but don't quote me). Install 280z unit into 240z housing. I am sorry for not documenting this more clearly, the resister was pretty easy to identify once I opened up the 280 unit. You could test your newly modified tach before completing the dash installation by wiring it up under the hood (near the ignition coil). The modified 280z Tach will now get it's input signal directly from the TACH output on the MSD box. After you verified that everything works, simply return the tach to the original dash location and you are smiling again. Don't grin too hard, manny 72DD

Ditto.. but I am using the HVAC coil. I did have a weird problem though. The wire that runs from the 6A to the ignition switch caused my windsheild wipers to go on. Just a little feed back through the system. I ended up having to disconnect it from the ignition circuit and install a separate switch for the 6A.

Probably my biggest reasons for going with an SBC is that I want to have a daily driver that is reliable, and really fast. I am going to be putting out about 450hp with my 377ci. There is very little chance I could get that kind of HP reliably out of an L28, not to mention it's alot cheaper and when it starts feeling slow again I have a long way to go before it has drivability issues.

What about 1 3/4" block huggers??? I remember reading that a few people were going to try them. Anyone have a set that works?

That's right I do seem to remember someone on here saying 280 stubs are stronger, they fit Ok in a 240's strut assy? That would be nice since I happen to have a 280 parts car in my driveway.

And !@#&$&$&!^#!!! Just finished rebuilding the engine in my 240... balanced, flat top pistons, lightened flywheel, ISKY autocross cam... fun engine. So in order to put on my 15 X 8 wheels I needed to change the lug bolts to longer ones so I can use spacers. Well when I took off my wheel I found that the hub moved more than the halfshaft. @#$%#$%%!!! Means my stub axle splines are wearing out. Ahh Ok whining's done.. needed to bitch to someone as my wife will just tell me to sell it or junk it, nope don't want to talk to her! So I wanted to find out, where can I get stub axels etc.. at a reasonable price? MSA's $233 ea is way more than I want to pay. Thanks!!!