thehelix112

While we're on the topic of knife-edging, the shape of the knife itself I find interesting. For example, johnc's crank does not like it is particularly aerodynamic. Sure its a lot more aerodynamic than a stock crank, but it would seem to me that the cross section of the counterweight should essentially be a tear-drop shape, though maybe an assymetrical cross section does nasty things to dynamic balance I don't know. In any case, a look at the actual profile that is passing through the air/oil would probably be of further benefit. Additionally, I would think that (depending on the operating speeds), this profile should change as you go `out' (further away from the main journal). The profile closer to the mains should be more rounded where as the profile towards the extremities could taper down and require a different shape. This is obviously because that `outwards' edge of the counter weight is going (much) faster than the inside edge. Dave *maybe* the outside of the

Phd in Computer Science from a small obscure University in Victoria, Australia. Now residing in Laguna Beach, CA. Working in Santa Monica for a small start-up producing network security appliances. Very challenging work, bleeding-edge technology, great bosses, what is unbelievable pay for a 1st job (atleast once you convert it to the Aussie dollar), things are going good thus far. Except my zed is over 5000 miles away from me. Dave

Very tidy work. Dave

1fastz, I assume you're talking about if you have to cut into the piston? Would a flat top piston would have better quench characteristics than anything with a dish? Dave

How are we supposed to turn the turnbuckle? Dave

K.I.S.S Dave

Noodle, Lazy sod. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109282&highlight=detonation+detectors Dave

I 100% agree with what LT280z just said. The thing that will pop any piston is either detonation, or pre-ignition. Pre-ignition will destroy any engine almost immediately. Detonation can be survived for a period depending on the strength of the piston. OEM pistons are designed to survive OEM conditions, and are unlikely to tolerate serious detonation for very long. Build yourself some detonation detectors (I have a thread somewhere here describing how), and be careful. FWIW I have run 19psi on my stock shortblock with no ill-effects. The det detectors really are fantastic, I can hear ANY detonation and fix the problem before it becomes one. I have also had the engine apart since running 19psi (stupid head gasket mistake) and the piston crowns look fine, no little men with hammers running around in there. Dave

I guess we care more about driving them than about bullshitting about them? Dave

3" mandrel pipes. No muffler. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-3267393565625239905&q=datsun+240z+turbo Sorry, had to. Dave

I have a 3.54:1 R180 in my car at the moment. To be honest I had to double check that it was a 3.54 as it revs up AWFULLY fast once on boost. If you are doing more than 166mph (top speed with 3.9 according to your 183mph with 3.54), around a track you're doing pretty damn well. I'd go with the 3.9. Dave

Phred, Great to have you here mate. I don't get over to classiczcar much anymore, and for one, feel glad to have your wealth of expertise about. Hope the engine goes well. Got some interesting work done to the head? Dave

Most useless post of the day Tony.. How about you link us to your gallery and we'll find the pics from there, or discuss some of the wonderful things you discovered whilst looking at the car? Dave

http://www.baddogparts.com/bsr/ More pictures there. Dave

Hahah.. good point. I was scratching my head wondering about the safety of making that power with the std ECU. Hehe. Dave

If t'were me, I'd be waiting for Ron Tyler to go into mass production. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117607

IMHO with the advances that are being made constantly to the megasquirt system, and considering how much the rest of the car is worth, it seems absurd not to spend the money on a stand alone system. Dave

``Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.'' --- Someone other than me

Good to hear someone other than me is learning things. I like learning. Thats kinda a simplistic view. What BJ is saying is that you can't force anymore air through the radiator than its capable of flowing. Ie, it is the bottleneck, so its no point having an opening that supports more than this flow. As soon as the opening flows less than the radiator, then the opening is the restriction, and you are lossing cooling capacity. Not if the opening won't flow it. Pulling by a fan, pushing by the wind, same same: the idea is to create a pressure differentail between one side of the radiator and the other. The higher the differential, the more flow. I think. That sounds simple, but its a very interesting question. Don't have time to think about it now. Will get back to it. Dave

Your injectors and pump determine the pressure you should be running at. Older EV1 style Bosch injectors are really only designed for one operating pressure, (ambient + ) 3 bar. The later EV6 style injectors have apparently far superior spray pattern (atomization) but good luck getting one of those. Your pump comes into it when you consider that it has to be capable of pushing hard enough to generate the pressure you want. I wouldn't think getting an average EFI fuel pump and setting the reg to 100psi would do many good things for the longevity of the pump. Of course, you could always go some Bosch motorsport products, pump (no, not an 044) and injectors.. they're offical rating is ``>8bar''. Dave

Congrats. I don't have much spare time, but would love to get along. I'm in the throws of trying to design some decent aero for my race car project, and am sick of sitting in front of a paused ALMS/DP race squinting at the TV. Dave

BJ, Tis a good point. Even if it is a ducted intake as I was assuming, the whole point of ducting the intake is to slow the air down as it passes through the car and to stop unnecessary reversion between the front of the car, and the radiator. I think... In the case it is a nicely ducted intake, the air will still be slowing down as it flows through it, so I do agree that the airspeed in there is probably (on average) quite slow. And as the airspeed on the underside of the front splitter/diffuser is (should be) quite fast, I do agree that this would generate downforce. My apologies to battlekat and his speedway engineer. My mistake. Dave

Hmmm.. that doesn't make much sense to me. The air that flows over that shelf (which is a ducted intake) will be flowing quite quickly (low static pressure), and the air under it (inside the car) will be completely stagnant (high static pressure). Dave

Not to put a damper on your party, but my GT35R (650hp turbo) is making positive pressure at 3000+ too (stock L28ET except cam). Boost threshold is one thing, lag is something else. I bet the HX has a lot less lag then the 35R. Lucky sods. Dave

I would be setting it to a SAFE level until you can do something safer than mess with a FPR. Do it properly or you'll blow it up. Dave