thehelix112

http://web.archive.org/web/20050213110308/http://park20.wakwak.com/~kaicho/ Hit Ctrl-A to highlight everything so you can read the white on white writing. Might need to run it through a translator if you want. Dave

Whats with the first halted launch? Was he trying to do another burnout? And those compressed whatever jets get him major ghey points :S Dave

I vill give you vun hoondred doolars for ze vooman. Dave

My dad built a stick welder powered by a holden (GM) 202 grey motor. Runs at around 2500rpm with a current-actuated throttle. Welding a decent size of anything audibly loads up the engine quite a bit. Dave

Relax all. We're all part of the same crew here, so lets not squabble over pointless stuff hey? EFI/Carbies/whatever floats your bloat: enjoy it. Dave

No ****, bet its happy to turn though. Dave

Thats definitely not normal. Happen to have a log with AFR/timing/anything? Dave

Pyro, Were the pumps that you brought that had too small clearances OEM or mellings or? Dave

Not sure on that one, gut instinct would say no. You could probably weld on a sandwich plate adaptor but it would be inefficient again (small T3 back up to larger T4 then nozzle down in the housing). Do you really need a TO4 flange? The GT3582R comes in T3 flange, the GT4088R and upwards come with T4 flange, but you can get TO4Z (new GT design 800hp garrett HKS TO4Z reproductions) still in T3 flange http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/prod382.htm (I think). Dave

Steam pipe bends, straight, and some laser cut flanges. Do it properly, do it yourself. Even if you just tack it and then get a pro to weld it up properly that way you can get everything exactly where you want it. I'm not a welders bootlace and I've got maybe half of mine done before I realised I'd made a mistake. Note to self, mock it up IN the car WITH the engine, not just in your head. Dave

Pyro, My understanding of racing clearances was you use larger clearances so more oil flows across the metal, absorbing more heat and keeping the metal cool? Also, with the clearances, its been a while since I looked at the pump, you can measure the clearances by sticking a feeler gauge down the oil outlet hole correct? Oh and was the melling PN of your pump M-111? Just wanna make sure I've got that right. While we're here, does anyone know the limit of the F54's internal oil feed gallery? Thanks for the input guys, Dave

Urgh, it is. Don't do it. Do anything else. Quote from Garrett: Using an on-center housing will significantly lower the turbine's efficiency. This results in increased turbo lag, more backpressure, lower engine volumetric efficiency, and less overall engine power. No Garrett OEM's use on-center housings. Good enough for me! Dave

Tell me an `on center' turbine housing is not what I'm thinking it is? Where the exhaust gas is aimed directly at the center of the turbine wheel? Dave

And if you do a search for the L28ET manual oil pump PN you also get results for the Z24. So there you go. I think I'll go order an auto L28ET pump and be done with it. Thanks for your help guys, Dave

The PN I was looking for, IE, the one for the L28ET auto pump is 15010-S8000 and courtesy sell them for less than the `nismo' pumps. I have also got a reply about this in another forum which says the nismo comp pump is the same as the LD28 oil pump. Does anyone have a PN for this by any chance? So confusing. Dave

I just wanted to say I hope nismo280zed and bjhines can continue this discussion without spoiling it by getting personal/offended. I for one am learning a lot. Keep it up. BTW, when a tyre sticks out, the inside tyre is likely to create more drag due to the more flat surface correct? And if you create a drag force on this side more so than the other it will produce a moment on the car and assist turning yes? I guess, this stuff is already complicated enough without trying to expand into non-straight line stuff for me. Dave

Dennis, Not the foggiest. Pump in Melbourne, me in California. Dave

Mentallylost, I started a thread about L28 head gaskets a while back covering the same issue about coolant passage covers. While its probably fine for a lot of people, covering two BOTH coolant passages on the manifold side of the head was enough to blow two of my head gaskets, both around the cylinders where the passages were blocked (don't remember details atm). Also the manifold side of my pistons was slightly discoloured brown, I'm not sure what that means. After replacing the gasket with a proper L28ET one (PN 11044-P7911) which doesn't block passages I've had no further issues. Something to keep in mind I suppose. Dave PS. Other thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108626

RedNeckZ, I would love to know how you come to that conclusion. Dave

http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign Uses javascript, not java. You can roughly work it out by selecting what you have on the website and altering piston pin height until deck clearance is 0. Assuming this is what the pistons were built for. At a guess I'd say as the L24 rods are 3mm longer than the L28 rods, the pin height will be around 35.1mm. Dave

Doug, Legend. Thanks mate. Dave

Ok so my 15W40 redline should be fine with a proper oil pump. Good to know. I had to drive the car back from the track (3.5 hours) @ 4000 with around 10psi of pressure. Not good. Dave

Doug, I don't suppose I could con you into measuring your known auto turbo pump length could I? Oh and according to carfiche.com, the PN for the L28ET with oil cooler is: 15010-88080 or 15010-88060 or 15010-68080 or 15010-68060 See for yourselves. http://carfiche.com/fiche009/s130/2/f08.gif Dave

So melling PN for the auto L28ET pump appears to be M-111, according to both autozone and summit. Dave

Autozone also stock Hi Tech and Beck Arnley L28ET pumps on their website. Any way to distinguish the auto pumps from others? Longer body? If so, how long? Dave