thehelix112

Your problem is I think caused by petrol burning a lot hotter than diesel. Thus 2.8L @ 1000F is a lot more pressure than 5.9L @ whateverF. What dump-pipe are you running? You need to make one that has the wastegate dump seperate to the main turbine outlet. You can then dump it to atmosphere if you want, or plumb it back into the exhaust a little while later. Dave

Not the N1 ones. And I recall a discussion somewhere about ceramic wheels being just fine as long as you manage the exhaust manifold pressure. Anyone else have a comment on that? Dave

I said 372rwkw. Equals 500rwhp on an Australian dyno. Thats a lot of mumbo, I don't know how hard TImZ or JeffP were working their GT35s but mine has a long way to go yet! Just doesn't seem like the sort of thing you `throw together'. Dave

Good to hear sonomaz, I've been to Infinity raceway once. Looks like it would be a helluva lot of fun. Do they run track days? Dave

500whp? Man I have to get me one of those American dynos. 372rwkw on an Australian dyno is a maxed out GT35R. There are companies around the place that fit larger compressor sections to smaller exhaust sections using new Garrett stuff. ala http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/prod18.htm Or you could go the GT35R that was designed for the Ford Falcon XR6 Turbo (4.0L DOHC I6) in Aus: http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/prod296.htm Or if you're nuts: http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/prod382.htm Dave

I think you'll find its closer to 500fwhp. http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/sr20transplants/message/27034 Not sure if everyone can see that so: Pete Leibig runs a business remapping SR. Dave

I was wondering the exact same thing prieth. Thats a lot of weight to be slinging about. Dave

Assuming a poor setup, maybe. With a decent setup geared towards drag, I doubt it. Dave

1. Turbo oil return 2. Oil temperature sender 3. Catch can oil return 4. Acupump oil return? 5. External oil pump feed? Dave

On the lower side of that first pic, are those tabs spots where you can drill and tap more plugs? That would be excellent if it were. Dave

Smaller A/R means lower boost threshold, reduced lag, and less top end. Up to you. Dave

A BB core does reduce the rolling resistance of the rotating assembly and yes a ceramic wheel does make said assembly lighter. All of this will not outweight the additional inertia from much larger wheels. I agree, S15 T28BB. Nice response and more hp. Dave

I love the notion that coil-overs automatically give you `full control' over anything. All it lets you do is raise and lower the car on the same set of springs, that is all. The more you raise it, the less droop it has btw. Considering you don't want to be tuning it, I would say that making anything adjustable, ride height, shocks, sway bars, whatever is probably a waste. I recommend you get a set of springs that drop the car to a height you like, and some quality shocks, bilstein for example. If you are keen you might take the springs along and get the shocks revalved to match them. Then its a matter of bump-steer spacers/roll centre adjusters/lower strut spacers/whatever you want to call them. I don't have any experience with tokico illuminas but the prodra-g's I had in my car were ratshitted awfully quickly. Oh and I think you might be being a little optimistic about fitting 10" rims under the stock guards? While I agree, the distance from inner guard to outer is around 290mm, you have to take into account the swinging motion of the wheel due to the swing-arm suspension. This will bring the wheel inwards as it goes over bump and effectively reduces the amount of wheel you can fit without rubbing. Not to mention the standard spring perchs are in the way. According to my really rough measurements and guestimates if you run 18s and coil-overs with REALLY short springs (read: stiff as bugger and really only suited to the track) you might get away with 9.5"? Someone else will be able to confirm/comment I'm sure. Dave Dave

myplasticegg, Re-read zguy36's post. The pressure wave STARTS at the t/b because thats where the restriction is. It then travels back through the piping, through the intercooler, to the turbocharger. If you put it near the t/b you are not letting the wave travel as far. If you vent to atmosphere with an AFM system the engine thinks its getting air and its not so the engine runs a tad rich for that time when the BOV is venting. How fast can you change gears? Dave

Picsorshutup. Dave

As a wild guess I would think that is connected to the idle air control valve for cold-start. It should close off as the engine comes up to temperature, so you could just way a filter on the end of it. But if you end up with boost issues it may be leaking, so you should weld a hose flare onto the cooler pipes for it to attach to. Dave

That depends how stuck it is to the head/block and if you can get it off without damaging it. If so, then I don't see why not. Dave

I believe you can. You then need 2mm shims for the cam towers, and an align bore on them to get the cam sitting as its supposed to. I don't know what sort of compression you would be looking at though. Dave

I run the following: standard tank feed to Carter 110gph lift pump -6 line from carter to 1.5L surge tank. -10 line from surge tank to Bosch 044 motorsport pump -8 line from 044 to fuel rail -6 to fuel regulator standard 5/16 supply line used as return to surge tank eensy weensy surge tank overflow returns to main tank. My hope was that by returning the fuel line to the surge tank I am only requiring the carter to flow exactly the fuel that was used, which assuming the carter is flowing as much as it can, is enough to supply 6 ~1100cc/min injectors going flat nacker. I think i'm pretty safe. Only time you could get into trouble is if you start it up and go balls out before the carter has had a chance to fill the surge tank. I really don't think you have much option but to run either two pumps in parallel, or a SX fuel pump perhaps? http://force-efi.com/sx.htm Comes with shiny AN fittings too. Here is a pic of all my gear tucked under the back of a standard 240z.

My guess is its noisy as hell. The LZ engines were race-only I believe so they don't care. Oh and it'd be a lot more expensive as well. Hehe. Dave

http://www.datrats.com.au/LZ20B_VS_LZ18_3.JPG Gear drive for L20 and L18s. Not only do you have to consider friction, and reliability, but you have to consider error. Chains and belts will both have spongy drive of the cam from the crank, that is, the cam will be a little bit behind the crank while the crank is accellerating, and a little in front when it is decellerating. The L chain drive is well known for chain `slap' which is commonly touted as the primary limitation to high rpm. Some food for thought I guess. Dave

Lunar is onto it. Get a racing rim and the first decent pothole you hit at speed will see the end of it. Thats also why lots of racing rims are 3-piece. For if (when?) the driver hits a ripple strip sideways and bends one, you don't have to replace the entire rim, just the outer shell section. Thats as I understand it anyway. Dave

Has been shown here before. Indeed it is 510six's car. Dave

Race Car Vehicle Dynamics - Milliken & Milliken Dave

Preith/tube80z, Awesome info. Thanks for that! Dave