Dans toy

The spring and gland nut is off. From what I've read the cartridge should just pull out ? Not happening! I did notice when I removed the steering arm off the bottom of the strut and exposed the 1 1/2" hole, there seems to be a welded floor up inside the strut , or has someone welded the bottom of the insert to the housing? Appreciate help.

LOL

You have a point regarding the weight to the back but its also nice to have the extra room up front to set up the turbo. My engine sits about 3" further back than the typical kit location,F47/ R53 weight . The front end does lift a bit but there's lots of adjustment in the 4 link and front end to get that under control. Personally I believe for cars and women a little lift in the right places looks much better!

Your going to get mixed opinions regarding the 4L60e transmission. If you decide to use it (with nitrous) I would suggest keeping the torque management tables in the PCM tune. A better choice would be a 4L80e.

If you want to see if the pcm is storing any error codes I can help you with that. I'm about 30 minutes south of yuba city.

Good to see your giving some extra thought to a gear change. Your combo does real decent 1/4 mile times.

With in 4 minutes! It sounds like your not getting water circulation through the engine. / air trapped ! I would bet your radiator water is not much more than warm in 4 minutes. Not sure how your engines plumbed but back fill the engines water jacket at its highest point and try to burp the air out.

Thought I would ad some information supporting 60ft. improvement at the last track outing prior to changing struts. Koni is a bit behind schedule with my order(delivery jan. 21). Went from 1.55 60ft to 1.51 with a suspension adjustment on the 4 links. Changed the instacenter to create more hit on the back tires and less lift on the front end. I don't want to read in to much on this because the shocks may totally change things.... But a little before and after!

I was considering limiters also but waiting to get shocks first. In my own little world of ideas I've considered the last 1 1/2" or so of travel having some kind of restraint but not so abrupt as a cable. This would still allow the quick reaction of the front on a soft rebound setting and possibly help to keep the tire on the ground and use that power to move forward rather than up.

It's mind boggling the 60ft times people are getting on drag radials . I'm just starting to get a sense of how the 4 link adjustment "anti- squat", and front end travel play a role in launching. As soon as Koni gets my shocks to me I plan to start with the information I've pick up , setting the car loose & unrestricted on the front end and work my way through tightening the car up until I find it's happy spot. 1.51 is the best I've done so far but looking forward to improving on that. " Jerry " if you have any suggestions your advice would be appreciated . My car has a street stall (2000)/ no transbrake, foot brake only & manages about 1500 rpm before brakes refuse to hold / The 6.0L eng 112 blower does make good torque and still lifts the front tires off the pavement. I'm thinkin I'll get that under control first.

Look'in to chew on that 60ft a bit with those twins? Sounds like a great setup.

I've been asked several times about pictures of my build. The Apple computer I have makes it difficult to share pictures, in part because I'm not so good at it. I'll see what I can do with my daughters help over the holidays. The Vband definitely made it easier to deal with.

Good suggestion, I will add to that if you don't mind. The LS sandersons are available in 1 3/4 and for those of us that are not running big cams the HP payoff is minimal. I did as "RebekahsZ" suggested, welded in a Vband in place of the 3 bolt collecter. It worked great and is very user friendly. Good luck and Merry Christmas.

I wouldn't listen to the nay sayers. As a owner of a 98' tdi for many years, if you can make it work more power to ya! Roughly every 150k miles you will need to rebuild your injector pump and there is also the usual timing belt replacement you don't want to miss. Beyond that my experience with a 350k mile tdi motor has been great. ( mid 40s mpg city when driving cautiously but never less than 40 / and a best of 54.7 mpg @ 60 mph on a trip of 800+ miles( that was both directions not down hill ! ). Good luck and keep us posted.

Did you make any tuning changes when you installed the LS6 cam? I made the same cam change in another 5.3 project and it needed a little idle tuning. If you can't get a tuner to look at it, bring your idle up to 700 rpm, that may mask the trouble.

running a 255-50-16. It's 26.1 dia./ Any taller, on my car it looks out of place. What kind of tire do you run at the track? Dan

Hard to know what works and what doesn't. I haven't seen anyone go to the trouble or expense of drag front struts or coilovers on our cars. I'm using a small drag radial so I wanted something that had a really loose rebound as a starting point and wouldn't limit the travel on the front end , should I need it.

I do mostly weekend driving and drag racing at the track with my car. Recently I've noticed the front passenger strut has lost all of it's resistance on compression and rebound so I'm taking the plunge and investing in a set of Koni custom struts revised on the rebound side to better suit drag racing . They will be rebound adjustable only, with a fixed stockish to firm compression side(as Koni/ Gorden describes). The price $766.00 seems a little over the top but there just aren't any options available. Not that I could find anyway. Going through Summit with a couple of $25 discount cards it came to $716.00 - Merry Christmas to me. I think.... Should be done by the first week in january. Hoping to see some 60ft improvements.

A little off topic question. I think I've seen track videos of your car. 1.41 60ft w/nitrous. 1.46 w/o? Whats the run down on your suspension set up/ shocks/ springs/ sway bars/ vehicle weight F&R ?

My pickup chewed up two 4L65E transmissions in a very short period of time (Built by Monster Trans!). I will say it weighs 4500 lbs, but why take a chance?" Ls1TECH" has a laundry list of failures with 4L60/65 trans in performance vehicles . If you have plans for nitrous, do it once with a 4L80E.

I have a 4L80E in an early 260z but I'm not sure I could give you any info to compare with. My engine/trans location is 3"+ further back & 1" up from the usual kit location/ rearend change / firewall is also sectioned and moved back. Also the independent rearend was changed and that certainly made a difference in the pitch. That being said it took a fare amount of slug hammer work to make room. I believe you will have some work to do. Mainly the width of the tunnel but when your done you won't ever have to worry about trans failure.

The cam would work well with a supercharger and certainly with other engine combinations. Did you get any information on the heads? stock, ported, aftermarket? The lift would be a little excessive if you have stock heads. They usually don't flow much better above 550 lift. In that situation you could save some valve train wear if your car was going to be a daily driver with something a little different.

I would say a lot of RPM capability in a 5.7L, 6500 to 7000. Reasonable idle. That's my guess. It should make good numbers with a flat wide power band if the motor has the supporting parts.

I've got a dry system, programable, 2stage, progressive. Its for LS engines with drive by wire throttle body ( not sure if yours is cable ). Nitrous is delivered through nozzles made to fit inside cone shaped air filters / the extra fuel is delivered though your injectors, so you are limited by what ever injector size you have. Extremely adjustable ! Its listed on sacramento ca. craigs list $275

Nice work! What did your car scale in at ? 60ft, 1/8 & 1/4 trap speeds ?