Neverdone

Wait a second...what do you have left to do? Or are you just fine tuning from here on out?

Watch for his next video, How to remove all the bread you just jammed into your engine with a pilot bushing!

That looks SO COOL! I question, and don't take this as a, "I think I know more than you" style question, because I don't, but, don't ya think you may have over baffled it? I mean, there's no way fuel is gonna leave that thing under acceleration or turning...but won't it have a bit of trouble getting back into it? Or do you have that baffle box sitting lower than everything else? Or am I just getting way too caught up in what might happen with crazy low fuel levels?

I'm not saying putting the Hyabusa V8 into a Z would be a great idea...just one that hasn't been done yet. But yeah, it makes less than no sense because the engine alone costs around 10 grand! It sure would be neat though

Yeah but what hasn't "been done"? Chev V8's, Ford V8's, Jag V12's, BMW V12's, BMW I6's, Nissan I6's, Toyoter I6's, Nissan V6's, Buick V6's, Infiniti V8's, Nissan 4 pots....I dunno, I'm probably missing something. As far as I can tell the last bastion of originality lies in putting that 2.8 liter Hyabusa V8 into one of our cars. Whoever does do that has won everything forever, and gets 9001 points.

Nothing, that's what I'm putting in mine

What's wrong with V8 powered 240z's?

NA engines don't have to worry about turbo lag, they weigh less, and you don't have the ricer, PUH-CHEW from the blow off valve. Also, there is no replacement for displacement. A larger engine with running the same amount of boost as a smaller engine will almost always be able to make more power. Sure it's an extremely simplified reality that doesn't take into account harmonic balance, air flow, or a numerous amount of other things, but in the end, a larger engine will always be able to make more power than a smaller engine. But I believe the answer to this OP lies in what he wants to do with the car. Usually if you have to ask how much one costs, it's usually better to go with the cheaper one. There's always plenty more things to fix and make better on the Z, the engine is really the last thing you should worry about, so I'd keep it stock with some basic mods for as long as possible.

Where I live anyway: Autozone: 35 bucks Napa: 48 dollars don't think it comes with resevors though, and it's a reman, not new. But it's new to you right

I took this out of my 73 240z, and it was attached to the L24 that was in there...I'm guessing it's the 5 speed out of a 280z, but I'd like to know for sure. Thanks for the help!

Fantastic speech. Movie is a bit slow, but it's definitely worth a watch. It's on Netflix on "instant" if you wanna check it out.

The thing that I think is actually quite neat is the all wheel drive system that this car uses. Instead of having two output shafts come out of the front of the transmission like on a Subaru, or having a second driveshaft come forward out of a transfer case like on some other cars, this car has two output shafts coming out of the ENGINE! Instead of one regular output shaft that comes out of the rear, this has one in the rear, and one in the front! The front transaxle is also pretty small and is really only used under hard acceleration, other than that it's 100% rwd. Now normall I'd be 100% against an awd Ferrari, but I think this new setup is slick as hell.

Question: How is it stronger? Is it 4 pinion instead of 2? Also, seeing as the word is definitly out about the Subaru lsd's, and are about as rare as hen's teeth in a picknpull, is there a good place to find them for not an outrageous price?

Hey, wanna know who is an idiot? <--- This guy! http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/70534-r-200-spline-counts-and-mystery-hlsd/page__st__20 Yeah...pretty much everything I needed to know is right there...just one thread away from finding it. Oh well, at least I got my answer. Thanks RB for the help.

Oh ok, thanks dude. I searched around for a while to find what the svx rear axles looked like and you're right, regular Datsun R180 output shafts just wouldn't work.

So, I had to re-read your response like 3 times. But the answer to my question is, yes. Correct? I do need to just plug in the Q45/S14/J30/S15 output shafts (the things in the color picture) into the long nose R200 housing... Then I have a differential with limited slip capabilities.

Hello all, Like the topic says, I have ONE question. Here is what I have learned in the past 4 hours of searching this topic all over this forum and several others. 1) I can take the vlsd carrier out of a shortnose R200 diff, and remove its crown gear, and attach the long noses crown gear. 2) This new short nose carrier/long nose crown gear combo, WILL in fact, fit in a long nose differential. 3) People get waaayyyy to caught up in making stock halfshafts work. 4} http://www.xenonz31.com/vlsdInstall.html <that's a pretty good write up. However, TO ME, it seems like he doesn't finish, or he combines some steps or SOMETHING. MY QUESTION, is about the output shafts. ^^^^ These are the OEM Q45 output shafts ^^^^ ^^^This is a sweet picture of a longnose R200.^^^ From what I have read, the longnose R200's output shafts (Iteam #27 in the picture), will NOT work with the VLSD carrier. What every seems to say, "You need the VLSD output shafts". So to me, and I'm assuming here, that I am to plug in the Q45 output shafts, into the two holes on the side of the longnose R200 (the holes right next to the #2 in the picture), and that with these output shafts installed into the new VLSD carrier, the diff will work? Does that work? Just plug um in? Is there any machining that needs to be done? Is there a clip or something I need? Has ANYONE done this before? ALSO, before anyone says anything about the half-shafts that connect the output shafts to the wheelside companion flanges, I'm not looking for that info. I'll figure that out one out later. Before I go any further on that, I need to know if this will work, that the Q45, or J35, or S14, or S15 output shafts, do in fact, attach into the longnose R200. Sorry if I sound neurotic right now, but I literally just got done reading "Can a VLSD carrier go into longnose diff" on about 6 or 7 different threads on this forum alone...with what seems to be no answers...

How are clsd output shafts different from vlsd ones?

Hello all, I've been doing drivetrain research for my car for the past...long while now, and I just came upon the wonders of Subaru LSD's and how the Datsun community puts them in much better cars. The standard practice from what I have gleaned is to yank a Subaru lsd R160 out of an early 90's or so Legacy or other lsd equiped Subaru (as it came as an option only, not standard) and remove the diff side stub shafts which plug into the diff. We then take our diff side shafts which plug into our diffs (mostly the 510 guys do this as the 240z diff shafts are slightly different) and then connect them to the Subaru's R160 for a cheap and effective lsd. HOWEVER! The gearing on most of the early Subaru's is pretty high (3.9, 4.11 and such from what I've read) and I need something a bit lower due to the engine I want to run and because it's going to be a street car. The other "problem" is that these diffs are R160's, and I would much rather have an R180 so it's a direct bolt in and it's just plain beefier. This leads me to what I can see as two options if I want to go down the Subaru route. I could purchase an STI's diff andd buy the stub shafts that John C awesomely makes, then make some adaptors and convert to cv axles. This is a bit more spendy than I had hoped to go. ORRRR...I could get the diff out of the long forgetten Subaru SVX, which low and behold IS an R180, has a gear ratio of 3.54, and has a 25 spline output shaft. My question to all you guys is, has anyone used an SVX diff before in a Datsun, and will the Datsun output shafts of a 240z (which are 25 spline R180 shafts) attach to the Subaru's diff? The SVX is a VLSD, and I don't know if that means there will problems with installing the shafts. Lots of people seem to say that it's bad...but then of course never say why. If no one knows for sure or can't give me a good reason as to why it won't work, I'll just end up buying one in a few days and see what happens. Thanks for the help guys!

If you can break what a twin turbo Viper motor cannot, with an L28, I'll buy you a beer. A damn nice one too.

Care to talk about it?

POR-15, Rust Bullet, Zero Rust, Rust Encapsulator, Rustoleum anti-rust pants. You could soda blast the car and then quickly primer and paint it with many coats of paint. You could take the car to a giant electrolysis tank and have it dunked. All in all, there's a certifiable shat ton of options. Good luck in chosing the right one for you! *Hint: They ALL have benefits and drawbacks. There is no perfect obvious solution.

To me it seems like if you're aiming for numbers like that with an L28, you obviously have the engineering and technical knowhow of how to adapt any transmission to that engine. The T-56 out of a Viper would work just fine. If you don't have that kind of budget or knowhow...then maybe you should think about a different number or engine to get it.

Those are 280zx "iron cross" wheels. Dunno what they are worth though.

Anyone? I know fully well someone has done this swap! Even just the length from output flange on the diff to the mating face of the companion flange that is currently on your car would help a little.