jnjdragracing

Are you sure it is the lsd, that is the one thing we have not had any issues with in our car. I did weld ours up so it is full posi. I would check the back lash / play and check the half shaft flange bolts along with the rubber belt rear diff. thing I am not sure what it is called.. Have someone hold the half shat while you turn the driveshaft, rock it back and fourth to see how much play you have and do the other side also. Also check with my brother jerry@jnjdragracing.com. I think he still has a r200 for sell.

The roll cage looks great, good job. I like the way you tied it to the rear. The welds look good too. Keep us updated.......

Hello this John with JNJdragracing. My brother built half shafts for our car and we have not broke any in awhile. The stock joints from datsun / nissian are the stronger than the replacements we know this from our trial and errors. Contact my brother jerry@jnjdragracing.com and see if he would build you some half shafts like we are running, or sell you a pair. We estimate we are pushing about 750hp running 9's in the 1/4 5's in the 1/8 with stock modified shafts.

We removed our sway bar and have no problem on the other end at 147 mph. The only problem we have ran into is when you unload the car "lift off the gas pedal" going that fast. But this problem is from a short wheel base. If you remove the front sway bar also install some kind of fron end limiter to limit your front end travel. Also install a bushing in the rear shock strut to limit the squating, you want the rear half shafts to be even not angeled during a hard launch. You will have to play with this setup to fine tune it like we did. Our 60 ft. is around 1.3. Hope this helps you. ps. Weight is a factor in drag racing.... the rule of thumb is for every 100lbs you remove from the car ( weight ) you should gain a 10th of a second. Our Z car weighs in around 2300lbs or so.

I have mounted a 26x19 rad. in a 240Z, I had to use a piece of roll bar tubing and had to hammer in the frame rails some to make it fit. It fit just snug and helped hold it in. I used some old rad. hose and spit it, wraped around the side tanks and it was a good fit. I made brackets out of alum. to hold the top. I have also put one in our 280Z and it fit without doing anything to the fram rails. I made a lower braket to hold the bottom and also the top.

Hello this is John with jnjdragracing. We run a R200 and have not had any problems with it. We estimate we are pushing around 750 hp. We will be taking it to a dyno before long to see. We are currently running a 3.90 gear ratio. But we are hazing the tires about mid track, So next time we go out for a run we will be switching to a 3.54 ratio to see if it helps with the tire hazing, more or less taking power from the engine. I am not sure about the R230, but the R200 should be just fine. Just remember about the angel of the u-joints. If you want more detail email my brother jerry@jnjdragracing.com. He does all the figuring for the drive train. Hope this helps, we also just weld up the diffirential to possi. John

Hello fellow Z Owners, I posted some more photo's on my web page www.jnjdragracing.com. Future projects, finally bought the tube chassis / car I was talking about. Also listed some of my stuff for sale. Z-Car parts, engine block, rods, rear ends and tee-shirts. Since the SEZ shoot out was postponed we took the car to a local drag strip and ran the 1/4 mile. Well I ordered some tee-shirts for the SEZ event and wore them at this event, all my friends and new friends were asking about getting some. So I posted some for sale. When you click on the big tee-shirt it takes you to my store at spreadshirt.com. They made my shirts and they really look great. Just wnated to pass it on. I am not soliciting sales just making everyone aware of what I have and need to clean up my shop. John

Hey guy's I posted the Time slips in the time slip area. Grouped all 4 together on a sheet of paper and scanned it in. John

Our 60 foot time was off some and we were not launching as hard as usual, think we were spinning some. On the last pass when we used 20% nos it picked us up but the rear end was really loose so we had to let it go after the 1/8 mile but still went through the 1/4 at 9.60 at 122 mph.

I would re-route, we did for other reasons, running 1/2 fuel in and a 3/8 return. Be sure to use aluminum fuel line. It is not hard to do, and it is better. I ran 3 lines total, 2 1/2 inch and 1 3/8. ou will need a flaring tool and tube seal nuts and ferrels. Be sure to tape up the fuel line before running to keep trash out of the lines. john

Hello, I had another person say the same thing. You need to download / right click and save as. Then play the video. If you play from on-line it will cut it off. just for your info. John

Yeah I know, It is hard to video it. I keep wanting to look at it instead of following it with the camera. The 1st 1/4 mile pass was complete. Next time I will sit further down, or get someone else to video it.

Just got through converting and posted the new video footage and time slips on our web site www.jnjdragracing.com. It is at the end of movies, also check out friends/other cars to video footage of a couple of grudge runs that same night. Hope you enjoy, we are going to reserve running 1/4 mile until the next SEZ Shootout, we will be running some more but will limited it to 1/8 mile.

Hello ED, I think the big secret is the pitch / angle of the half shaft u-joint angle under a full load.We installed some rubber spacers on top of the rear sruts. We racheted down the rear to duplicate the car under a load to see what angle / pitch the u-joint was in. Under a load you want the u-joint to be straight as possible with no angle. Please email my brother jerry@jnjdragracing.com for more details he is the one responisble for the rear suspension. John.....

It is a IHRA santioned track, We run as a No Time car / Grudge car. We can not race in an event because of the half shafts I am pretty sure. This was a Thurday night test and tune / Grudge night, so we did not have to through Tech. How ever we will be required to have a parachute before we can run 1/4 mile again. So we will stick to 1/8 mile from now on.

Halfshafts have been beefed up some, changed out some ujoints to bigger ones located on the differential side, running a R200 with 390 gears, weleded it up posi. My brother Jerry has changed out all the rubber etc in the rear end. You can email him at jerry@jnjdragracing.com for more details.

Hello to everyone, Well since the SEZ Shootout was postponed until next year we brought our Z-car to a 1/4 mile strip and ran it. Aiken SC at Carolina DragWay, we pulled the Z-car off the trailer and went to staging, my brother Jerry was driving and he was supposed to do a shakedown pass 1/8 only. I guess it was to much for him and hung it out the back door. I will be posting time slips soon along with new video on our website www.jnjdragracing.com. 1st pass 1/8 was a 6.2? something at 122mph and 1/4 of a 9.6? at 143mph. He went to the high chip 7800 rpm about 150 feet from the end of the 1/4. 2nd pass, same thing 1/8 except 1/4 was 147 mph. I told him I could put in a bigger high chip or pull it out and my brother Jerry said that was fast enough for him. We made a total of 5 passes, with the last three on 20 % juice. 1/8 was 5.8? letting off before the 1/4 and still went through at a 9.6? at 120mph I think. Did not break anything, no oil leaks, just a good time. Oh they said we had to have a parachute if we were going to run 1/4 mile again. That would look a little funny a parachute mounted on the Z-car with no wheelie bars and a stock Z supsension. My brother Jerry said if we ran 1/4 with a 8500 rpm high chip we would have no problem getting to 160 mph. Z-car was just to light feeling on the other end at that speed. Braking would also be a problem with stock brakes. Just wanted to let everyone know about it. John@jnjdragracing.com

Hey guys, Well I happen to check out the SouthEastern Shootout today, and noticed it was canceld and is recheduled for March 2006. It is because of the Hurricane Katrina, fuel prices etc. I have been working so hard getting our Z-car ready to pass NHRA rules. Replaced all fuel line with Aluminium, sealed battery box, relocated master cut off (power) etc. Just had both my Nitrous bottles refilled and bought 10 Gals. of 116 fuel. We were really looking forward to running it quarter mile and getting to meet all of you who can Attend. We are going to bring the Z-car to Carolina Dragway in Aiken S.C. next Thursday 09/08/2005. I will video tape it and see wht the car does. Just wanted to let every one no what was going on. I tried to post this in annocement in the Annocement section, but not allowed to do so. Well I guess we will see you in March.......... Please be checking out web page www.jnjdragracing.com for video footage of the passes. SEZ's web site is www.freewebs.com/sezshootout

I am going to get a copy of the Time Slip and scan it and post it. The 60 foot was 1.384, at 5.81 1/8 mile and 122 mph, if I remember correctly.

Hey fellow Z owners, I posted a few more videos on my website http://www.jnjdragracing.com , They are video's of the back view of the car, lauching etc. Come check them out.

We use Hooker headers, made for the chevy v8 for the Datsun Z, I am not sure about the mmounts you are talking about. I just used motor plates. Everything fit pretty good. I also added a rear motor plate as well, this plate fits between the engine block and bell housing.

Yes I had the same problem, but I was mounting a blower intake to Eldebrock Victor Jr aluminium heads, The ports on the heads were a lot bigger than the intake. Take a look at my site www.jnjdragracing.com under engine photo's. You will see that I used plates that went between the intake and heads. I used a big gasket on the head side and a smaller gasket on the intake side. This cured my problem. You will have to make the end pieces for the front and back of the inatke to seal it. Take a look at my photo's and you will see what I did. You can by the plates from Dart. They are called transzitian Plates / spacer plates.

If you are going to buy a NOS system, I would recommend a cheeter plate system, it is adjustable. Then I would buy a NOS progressive controller to go with it. Adjust plate to a 150hp shot, use the progressive system with it. You set it up to only give you a 20% initial shot then let come in after a second or two. This is what we use and it is gental on your car / diffirental.

Thanks, is that a pro-charger or turbo? I was going do a pro charger, I priced out one and what it would take and like me I have to go big and it was just too expensive for me. I like the way the old roots style blower looks and sounds, and I think I made the right decison.

Yep, we did change out the u-joints, replaced all bushings, my brother handled all this the drivetrain is wht he does. He also limited the travel on the front end and rear.