jnjdragracing

My brother sent some rear hubs up to them to have them converted to accept cv's. It has been a month now and we can not contact them. Does anyone have a phone number so I can call to see what the hold up is. We have sent the cores and they have arrived. We have paid the money. If you go on-line it states in progress. What makes me aggrevated is they will not return my emails. All I want to know is how much longer. We want to go racing..... Any help please. You can pm me. John

This is Jerry from jnjdragracing, all I can say is NOS,turbos and superchargers, oh my. All is fare in love and war and drag racing. Run what you brung....... I know that japtin is tube chassis all out race car, as far as zgad and ourself stock suspension cars wonder what we would run in a all out 2000 lb tube chassis car leaving at 6100 rpm. That would be something to see.... How about high 8's on stock suspension like zgad and ourself, want to see it be at SEZ#7 in September. :biggrin:

Hey carolina280z, where in s.c. do you live. I can assist you if you want some help. I have a garage that is pretty well setup. I live in west columbia s.c. near the airport cae. Let me know. John

Dr_Hunt has a subframe with a 9 inch, Z-Gad and ourself do not. Z-gad has a better rollbar than us and his car is tied together pretty stout. Our car is just a plain Z car with a roll bar and some supesion mods, stock R200. We have broken our share of half shafts ( u-joints ) but we are converting to CV joints. Our car is not s atreet car, but could be if we put mufflers and street tires on it, My brother Jerry has done a lot of home work and he has figured out the do's and don'td, example high gear ratio lika a 3.55 and a 2 speed glide not a turbo 350. This way it is not so vilent when it leaves the line etc. Enough said, you can check out or web site www.jnjdragracing for more details. John

Yeah we are running a R200 with u-joint half shafts. We are presently upgrading to CV-Joints now. After SEZ6 and breaking both half shafts we decided to do the upgrade. After popping both shafts, we had to take it easy doing burnouts and launching the Z as you can see in the videos. This year at SEZ7 you should see us doing real launches and should be in the 8's in the 1/4 using a R200 rear end. We probally will upgrade the rollbar to meet NHRA certs. John

Man, go Chevrolet.... Can't go wrong on that one. As far as the rear end, we have had problems only with u-joints / half shafts so far. The center section has been doing fine. Do the research, checkout websites. There is a lot of info on what you want to do.

Sorry to see that, I bet you are glad you pulled the oil pan and checked the oil filter, it was fixing to get nasty......... I like the Z by the way, hope to see you SEZ 7.... John

That is what he means a solid lift cam, you can try to check the wear pattern from the bottom, but you really need to pull the lifters in order and check them up close. Did you try a magnet yet, any metal other than aluminum? If not I would not worry about the lifters. I think it was the oil pump pickup not being the correct length that caused this issue, if you tighten a main then spun the cranks and did this for each one, you would of felt if the clearence was to tight. On my enigne after all the mains are torqued my engine spins free as like nothing was there, but I do use racing full grove bearings and it is balanced with a high dollar crank ( Callies Stealth ).

I would say a rod bearing. If you can drop the oil pan with the engine in the car, you can get to the bearings. The mains would be easy to check, the rods will be to but will be aggervating. I have installed a crank,with the engine still in the car with the pistons, rods and heads installed. You just have to roll the engine to the sweet spot and roll the crank into place. But all of this would be easier if the engine was out of the car. But since it is in place I would check the mains 1st, then each rod. I think you will find the problem. If not then the cam bearings. Did the cam slip right in or was it real snug ??????????

It looks like it is a lot of bearing material. Take a magnet and see if it is metal. it looks like bearing material. Since you hve the oil pan off, I would check the main bearings. If they look okay, then I would check the rod bearings. If they look okay, I would check the cam bearings. Did you check your clearences on the mains and rods? You want to look for degrading bearing material, or a lot of scrathes etc...... If any have spun will notice the keepers are gone and the oil holes on the mains do not line up, rods will simply turn and the keepers will be gone. Also look for any heat symptons, the metal will be blueish in color, good luck and please let me know what you find. John

I have an old lincoln Square Wave 175 Tig, and just love it. I would not mind upgrading but the old Tig just goes and goes.

The interior is brown and not in good shape.

Passenger fender is damaged. Looks like it was in a wreck. I will check on the rocker panel. I have a plasma cutter so cutting a skin is no problem.

Okay, I have decided to scrap this project. Anyone need any parts from a 1984 300zx, have complete car and two engines with transmissions. Will drop fuel tank and take to scrap yard. Ypu have about three weeks if anyone is interested in parts. The rear disk brakes and diffirential my brother wants, my friend next door want the rear brake lights / lens. All else goes, cheap parts plus shipping. Only have $50.00 in whole car. Only thing you will be paying for is labor for me taking off and shipping. PM me if intrested.

Okay, I bought a 1984 300zx / 3.0 v6 engine. Good body etc, engine timming belt broke per a mechanic. Pulled it in the shop and took off the top timming cover and noticed the belt was stripped. Tried to remove the bottom cover and noticed I can turn the engine by hand with plugs in, not a good sign. However I am a small block chevy guy not a 300zx guy. Question any thoughts on the engine before I go further? I only paid $50.00 for the wholw car, my friend has a 86 300zx, which I was able to get the engine from complete, he said the guy he bought it from siad the engine was blown. The timming belt is in good shape. Question how easy are they to rebuild and are they worth it or should I just small block it? I was hoping my 300zx had a broke timming belt and I could just pull the heads and have then go through. Well since the engine spins so easy by hand with spark plugs still in, I am thinking maybe a broke crank? or just wore completly out. I was hoping to fix it up for my son. Any suggestions please, it is not a turbo..... Thanks John....

We use the Weld Wheels that fit a Mustang 4 lug pattern, It is eigther the ford pattern or Plymouth pattern that fis the Z car. Since it is a Mustang there are a lot of choices.

Z is ready to go, waiting on my brother, he is going to be upgrading the rear suspension to cv's. Going way to fast for U-Joints. Hopeing to have it ready for September Southeastern Shoot out and will be doing 8's in the 1/4 mile, that is if the track officials will let us run again. They were very hesitated last time in March. Stripping a 300Z, getting it ready to small block Chevy for a friend of mine, also bought a 300Z for $50.00 dollars with a broken timming belt, hope to get running as a daily driver. Monte Carlo waiting for its turn in the shop, along with my Tube chassis car project. Having too much fun with the Supercharged SBC 355 cu. in the Z car to pull it out......... John

Childs and Albert make H-Beam rods also. If no luck I have a set for sell, mine are not H-beam, they are Super Sport Rods used, and are full floating 6" inch rod for a Chevy 350. John

I like the color also, good luck with the engine install. Please post more pics....... John

I sent you payment this morning for two patches, please let me know on the shirts / vinyl transfers. John

Hey this is John with jnjdragracing. Tried to pm you but you are full and will not let me send to you. My brother Jerry and I are really interested in the halfshafts and cv joints. I did get your message and would like to know what all comes in the deal for the amount you gave us. Also will these parts bolt up to a R200. If you do not mind please list the items for me. Example: halfshafts with cv joints (what brand), do the couplers / adapters come with them and are they 4 bolt or 6 bolt etc. We are looking for something to withstand the punishment we want to put out, u-joints just are not doing it anymore, too much power..... Thanks, John

I would be interested in your halfshafts / cv's and what ever goes with it. We are looking to replace our ujoints with cv's. We are running a a R200. Let me know how much for the Halfshafts / cv joints and the adapters to mate them up. You can email me at john@jnjdragracing.com Thanks, John. Y

Thumper, we cut out the nader bars in the doors, got ride of the door glass, and window regulators.cut out the metal below the small side glass in the back. We also removed all the heater and a/c stuff. We used head light covers painted black because there was no head lights or brackets. This car with a 400 sbc weighed 2300 LBS with heavy turbine wheels. Best of luck!!!!!! Jerry

Put me down for two as well.

Hello Technomancer, We run Hooker super comp headers on our Z-Car. If you are coming to the SEZ6 shootout you can compare headers on diffirent z-cars. That is what I would do before buying anything. Take a look at all the diffirent configurations etc. John