BLOZ UP

Agreed value insurance is the way to go on these cars. You can't daily it but some companies are less restrictive than others. And while I've never had to file a claim to prove it, I've scoured over my Hagerty agreement and see nothing against taking it to work every once and a while. If you're daily driving then you need some kind of regular old insurance, but comprehensive is not going to be worth it in that case anyway. So (daily driving excluded) it's either paying less for agreed value with (a chance of, if you don't think it covers some driving) full payout, or paying more for just liability and a guaranteed zero payout. If you have a separate daily as most people here do, this should be a no-brainer. Plus I added unlimited flat-bed, soft strap towing for my covered classic vehicles. A little more per year and it covers all my vehicles. I've used it 4 times in 3 months this year with great service.

Got some TTT tow hooks, but can't figure out how the front one's supposed to mount. Haven't put either of them on. Checked timing, it's been 20 degrees too advanced this whole time. Oops. Explains hard starts and kickback. Doesn't explain how it was 20 BTDC before the headgasket blew at idle and 40 now, unless I measured wrong before the headgasket, which would explain why the headgasket went in the first place. Yet that doesn't explain the rough idle and tuning problems that have only cropped up after the headgasket job. Ugh, hopefully I haven't injured any internals. About to turn in my wrench card. Runs like a champ now, too bad the season's over. Might be one more autox later this month, weather permitting.

Yeah try from a different source.

So 12psi is the minimum you can run with that spring combo. Get a EBC or even a plain bleed valve to pressurize the top part of the wastegate progressively until you reach the desired boost level.

How's your PWM working out? Every other person I've heard of using it has feedback/noise issues in other circuits from it.

Here's the first run, with Woody Harrelson instructing: I'm not sure what caused the stall but I suspect fuel system problems (although looking at the fuel pressure gauge in the video, I see nothing wrong). I'm going to order a new low pressure filter whenever I find out what filter it takes just to eliminate that. I've rewired the fuel pump and increased cranking pulses and it starts a lot better, but it still stalled a couple times. It might be that the idle is too low, since it was pretty cold when I tried it. I guess I need a fast idle valve. As for why it wouldn't restart later during the event, I'm pretty sure it was low battery voltage. Even with a jump it wasn't cranking that fast. The fuel pump wasn't coming on because the ECU was resetting constantly. Actually, now that I think about I should have a log of the whole thing...

IIRC The red and white are the analog outs (1 and 2, maybe not in that order), the rest is the ground.

The white stuff is thermal grease. It's used to conduct heat of the transistor without conducting electricity. It's normal, and required. You just put them in series with the injectors. Battery +12v -> Resistors -> Injectors. Then from injectors to Megasquirt.

50A 220V breaker and outlet will cover all available single phase welders. My box had plenty of spare space for it.

I went, I saw, my car died. I did get 2.5 runs in though. Here's the second one with an foreboding stall right at the start signal:

Autocross this sunday, I plan on being there.

Well, it appears to have been my oil drain. Took it off to reroute it and oil spilled out everywhere, so it was apparently backed up. I mean, it was level if not slightly downward but apparently that was enough. Now it's back to the way it was before the headgasket job and everything seems fine. No more smoke. My tune is still pretty far off. I've fixed some rough timing values and tried autotune again, but my target AFRs are just too extreme. The car does not like anything leaner than stoich, and even stoich is pretty rough, but it still might have timing issues as well. I need to compare it to a stock NA timing map because now I'm just arranging things in the dark.

I think you meant Murphy. I don't think you want Darwin...

Heh. Looks like a lot of fun. Never got to run on the Sheriff's track when I lived over there.

Looks like some of the chicanes were wider than the car....

Is the 3.7 out of a turbo? You in CA?

Changed the oil and drove it some more. Still smokes but much less. Only white when cold, and it doesn't smell so it's probably just condensation. Blue smoke was still there, but much less I think. I did a compression test and they were all at 170psi. Spec is 173. I cranked pretty briefly in each cylinder since my battery doesn't have the capacity for it. Real 6 second cranks would probably put me at 175psi. So, that's good. Compression rings and valves are okay then. I think it might be oil that seaped past the turbo oil seals when the turbo was off, it was laying on the side. Also might be that I routed my drain slightly different and it doesn't have as much downward slope as it did before. I upped the oil weight from 10W-30 to 10W-40, and used conventional (which is what I should have put in it for break-in, according to some people). I also found a Mobil 1 filter that's bigger than my current one. It's the M1-110 and it's the same part for the Frontier VG33. So that makes that easier. I also used 4.5 quarts instead of the 5 I had before. I used 5 in the VG30 without the remote filter without problems, but I just want to make sure I'm not foaming the oil in the pan. I tried tuning it some and my fuel tables are pretty whack. It seems like the car really requires a lot more fuel right off of idle, even cruising in gear at 30 kPa, it was surging like crazy with my VG30 fuel table that's already been richened a lot. It doesn't seem to like anything less than 15:1 AFR at any engine load or speed. I imagine part of that is my cam and headwork. Then again perhaps I didn't calibrate my O2 sensor correctly on reassembly....

On a positive note I fixed my TPS. Slightly negative one: After replacing the front combination lamps with LEDs, when the tail lights are on my rear 'single-filament' (1156) turn signal LEDs are partially illuminated somehow. Even my indicators are partially illuminated. Overall resistance might be too low, I guess. I have no clue. Still flashes but it can't be good.

Car's running fine, white smoke has decreased. Now I see blue smoke Smokes a lot at low load only. I'm thinking rings are not seating at all. I know I set the gaps correctly. Will try a compression test and maybe a leakdown, and while I'm at it I'll switch oil. It's been only 70 miles on the rebuild, but it should not be smoking that much. Might also be oil leaking past the seals in the turbo. Have to double check my drain, and my oil pressure is pretty high when cold.

Some unedited footage: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_vdfQvfKy0

You weren't in it, I assume? Sounds pretty good. Better than the last one that reported in here, but he had a cage and some sound system stuff.

Took off valve cover without removing exhaust. Tightened rocker shafts. Everything looked clean and dandy in there. Car runs suspiciously well. Fire extinguisher, zip ties, flashlight and 10mm wrench must be kept in car at all times.

But yeah, very tempted to dump it and go LSx if it's ruined.

So I'm 90% sure I forgot to tighten the rocker shafts on the driver's side head. Which, by coincidence, is the one where the exhaust has to move in order to remove the valve cover. I woke up an hour early and immediately thought of it. Maybe what they say about sleep is really true. It might be a simple fix. Then again I ran it for a couple minutes like that so I imagine the damage could be: bent rocker shafts, galling from oil starved shaft, lifters. Valve cover damage. Sort of glad it was something I forgot to tighten rather than some chance mechanical failure. Not sure why.

Getting real tired of things breaking. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=alzSywxZ9Fk