BLOZ UP

I use the actual cig. lighter outet to power a few always-on items (GPS hot-start, etc.). I added some extra wire from the stereo harness to a weatherpak, then to a double cig. outlet behind and under the passenger seat. Then I plugged that inverter in.

Unfortunately, zmaniac killed himself while DUI. I haven't heard about what happened to his shop, but he had the best rates and I was looking forward to seeing a fellow z guy to tune my VG33 S30. I'm pretty familiar with MS, and am willing to help out. I'm in central NJ. I've never used Haltech but am willing to try it out. I've seen it in use and played with the software, but that's about it. Would love to play with it though as I've been kind of casually eyeing to upgrade my MS.

I got one normal for work, and HD for working on the car.

That looks real good. I just went with a dual outlet inverter with USB out as well.

I'm not familiar with the SMD version. I know there are a few differences, but the daughter board is the same, so the inputs are unless something on the SMD is also using them. Also, no proto area.

Oh, and I managed to melt the boost gauge sender wire because I forgot to secure it. Gauge wasn't working, but I should be able to repair it.

Fixed my coolant leak I believe. It looks like it was the thermostat outlet. Went on a short test drive with datalogging and video so I could try out this RaceRender software I bought: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zom-0JNBoBs

Yeah, what he said. You don't need a huge intercooler, especially with the air mass needed for 400hp. The CXRacing or Mishimoto ones are plenty big.

Upgraded my crappy intercooler to a huge one. A bit too large, it took some pie-cuts and lots of finagling. Old one: New one: I'm happy with the fitment. Still needs some real mounts on it to hold it in place, but the piping does not rub on anything anymore, and the fitment relative to the radiator is much better.

The CXRacing intercooler is about as cheap as you can get for a good product from a crappy supplier. It's also at a great price. You should be able to get it and some couplers (try siliconeintakes.com for cheap ones and cheap clamps) for around $400. If that's too expensive then you might be able to scrounge around junkyards for NPR intercoolers or online forums for used intercoolers, but that's more work. It all depends on how handy you are and what tools you have available.

Man, the roads look so pristine over there... I see the Zs are in the same general area they were back when I went to one in 2012ish...

I got some more Vibrant 'boost connect' fittings (AKA: Push-to-Connect/Quick Disconnect). I have a bunch of 1/4" tube/1/8" NPT and a couple 3/8" tube/1/4" NPT. I installed one 90 degree 1/8" NPT 3/8" tube fittings for the BOV and a 1/4" NPT on the manifold . Finally replaced my piecemeal rubber/silicone vacuum line with a nice hard polyethylene one. Not sure what heat rating the 3/8" line is, but my 1/4" is supposedly safe to 250+ degree F. Earlier I replaced the wastegate line with 1/4", but I still need to figure out how to connect my Greddy Type S solenoid box, which just has smooth nipples. I might get some barb fitting to put on my straight adapters and use some short silicone. Ghetto but should work fine. The other problem is where to mount the solenoid box. I think I'm going to be making a coolant reservoir out of aluminum, and I'll have to put a flange on it for the boost controller. Also, finally installed the 1/8" NPT boost/vacuum sensor with a 1/4" NPT adapter into the intake manifold. Also also, am looking into modifying my MS to accept at least 2 extra sensor inputs: Oil Pressure and Fuel Pressure. The SpeedHut gauges use 'Sensata' sensors, as far as I can tell. I do not see the exact part number listed but I see very similar ones. The pressure sensors are 0.5v-4.5v output, so I should be able to tap or tee into that to give my ECU an idea of what's what. It would be real nice to log fuel pressure to ensure consistency.

Thanks. I think it turned out well considering I allotted one day only for it.

Any idea what the weight is of the trailer? I'd like to get an old Ranger/mini-truck bed to make into one but I'll have to stick to a HF trailer if it's too much.

Got my intercooler installed and the piping done. Do have vroom-psh. The intercooler is a tad to wide, so it needed to be modified. Cut off the intercooler ends at about 10 degrees and cut a lot of 15 degree pie cuts out. After deburring and cleaning up the pieces, I attempted to fit it all together, one (or two or three) piece(s) at a time. It turned out I needed one 22.5/15 degree pie cut to get the passenger side inlet the work. An hour or two later: It was fun to weld some aluminium tube again. I haven't welded it in years. Welded the pipes on to the endtanks, which went extremely well due to the quality casting on the endtanks. By 'quality', I mean not oil and carbon soaked for 20+ years. Also gave a quick double coat of black rattle can on the front. I'll take a slight performance hit for not being gaudy looking. Next up is fixing the piping to/from the intercooler on the turbo/engine side. I did keep in mind that the intercooler should be removable, and it is just so. After disconnecting the silicone couplers you have to slant the right side forward and up to clear the core support, then tilt 90 degrees around the axis of the passenger side inlet, then remove it. Simple! Luckily both ends just need simple extensions, one weld on each. The turbo outlet pipe is flipped around (from how it was with the last intercooler) so the 90 bend is closer to the turbo, and it sits lower into the engine bay. Then I just welded on a couple extra inches to make it to the 90 degree silicone reducer. For the other side I cut off a 45 bend from the old piping and put that on the end. Then I spent the next couple hours drilling and grinding and waiting for my air compressor for the hole for the new BOV flange. I only got a couple vroom-psshh's out of it since it was late and I just zip tied stuff up out of the way. Just have the BOV and wastegate hooked up, no boost controller since it needs to be relocated. I did use my new quick-connect boost line to the wastegate though. Nice stuff. 8psi spring, IIRC but I only hit 6 psi and is a bit too lean building boost. I also remembered I have higher compression so I should take it easy, and called it a night. Before this, I had also cleaned up some of the wiring and ran new grounds to the alternator, engine block, and battery disconnect switch. Still don't have a working turn signal. I need to figure out where to mount my stock coolant overflow or get a new one, and fix the rest of the vacuum lines but the bulk of work is done. Ooh, I did find where the coolant leak is from, the thermostat housing. Shouldn't be too hard to replace...

Those crash tests are hilarious.

You got the MPH exactly the same in those two runs?

Well this thread took a turn...

That looks great but is insanely expensive for some high-output LEDs and an IC.

The main guy is familiar, IIRC. 'Brice' I think.

Paul.... the guy from Alamo Performance?. Oh yeah, hey you should take it to Alamo Performance. They do good work. And have a dyno.

The stock wiring is more than sufficient for SpeedHut. The Speedhut gauges use very little current relative to the stock gauges/dash lights. The main difference is the LEDs replacing the filament bulbs. Just be sure for the ignition gauge wires to select any one of the harness wires that supplies IGN current, not accessory as the accessory lines are shut-off during cranking.

Gas Monkey in Dallas. $$$$$ Jerry's Z Car Emporium "All Z Car Specialist" on the Ft. Worth/Arlington line $$ There was also that one guy that bought my old 84AE... Greg... Rob... Can't remember. 300z Parts+ Or something. Think it went under. Although Jerry is more of a wrecker than a shop. He might have also retired & turn it over. What do you need done?

No turbo yet

I worked on it a bit yesterday. Cut off the ends of the intercooler, made and used some mounts for it, and made some pie cuts out of 2.5" pipe. Looks like it will fit, with the driver's side slightly easier to plumb than the passenger's. It's going to require some nasty pie cuts but I think overall it will not be much of a difference from a smaller but better plumbed intercooler. Also, my right turn signal doesn't work. The left one works fine. The right: It stays on, the flasher switches zero times or one time until it reaches the on state and it stays there. The rear turn signal bulb illuminates, but the front one does not. I've measured ~12v at the bulb (though it is 0.25-0.5v lower than the parking lamp side). I've tested the bulb and another known working bulb and verified it's not the bulb. I attempted to measure current but forgot how ammeters work and blew the 10A fuse. My next guess is a grounding problem, since I did relocate the battery and moved some grounds around. Some more lists: Before I can drive it: Fix turn signal Fix hazards Fix horn/fix some other PO wiring hacks I discovered Plumb and fix intercooler Weld in new blow-off valve flange. Plumb boost lines/replace with push-to-connect fittings Rough in the tune Secure/cover all wiring and crap Before I can race it: Dyno tune Would be nice: LED bulbs all around Add Headlight relay Add relay for hazards/turn signals/brake lights Fix low-hanging exhaust hangar Laptop mount Fix dash Replaced seat(s) and add harness bars/roll cage Fix/replace stereo and speakers Get race tires and wheels and a cute trailer for them Here's a shot before I started work on the intercooler: