BLOZ UP

I'm having them all machined down to 11mm, this will raise the price.

4130/4140 was considerably more expensive for not much more hardness. The timing gear and harmonic balancer aren't that hard.

I thought the L2xE used 2, one for the dash gauge and one for the ECU. The Z31 does, I know that for a fact. Plug the old sensor back into the harness and find out.

I've received them. Look alright. They ended up being 13.1mm thick instead of 11mm (within 20% 'economy' thickness tolerance), so they will need to be turned down on a lathe. Also the OD is tapered, but this isn't a big deal. The ID is tight and requires some sanding on some of them, but a couple fit fine. The flat edge is flat, however, so they are not bad. I have four extras. If you want one, $25 shipped. This goes to recoup some of the costs associated with machining them. I take BTC/LTC/DOGE or Paypal. First come, first served. PM me for details.

Here's a bad photo of the gauges: Left to right: Boost/Vacuum, Fuel pressure, Oil Pressure. Ordered from most likely to destroy my engine to least likely.

Got some magnetic numbers in. Looks great. Doors are ready to race. The rest of the car: not so much. Did some more wiring, but didn't take many photos. Have the new triple Speedhut gauges in and powered. Wired up a new alternator output line since I apparently removed the old one. Spent lots of time tracing wires to make sure nothing would blow up... and turned everything on. Only blew one fuse! I had wired in the Speedhut gauges to the old gauge harnesses and plugged them in backwards. Oops. Luckily after fixing the problem and replacing the fuse my gauges appear to be fine. Megasquirt powers up and is ready to (try and) start the VG33. Just need to get the VG33 ready. Managed to mail off some car parts to my old house in Texas so I'll need to buy them again. Maybe they'll return it and I'll get a partial refund, if I'm lucky. Too bad I don't have my old neighbor's number any more... I did order a 11mm spacer after taking measurements. I'm trying out this emachineshop.com, so we'll see. I'm getting five of them since the total price was nearly the same as one. Hopefully someone will buy the rest.

Nice. It's always been tough for me to tune startup parameters. Especially cold starts, you only get a few iterations per day.

I've ordered 5, said it would take 8 days to make. Have no idea if the tolerances were right. Upping the tolerances made it $100 each instead of $20 each. Probably going to require some final machining.

Heh, "no rust": There's no rust. See photo for rust.

Thanks. I just did some wiring. Have the starter wires in (ugly and cumbersome, but should pass tech. I think.). Also have the fan relay and ECU power in on the tray side. Not sure why I have ECU power routed through here. The stock ECU power wires should have been sufficient. Oh well. Still need an engine to frame ground, but ran out of cable. Also got what was formerly the fusible links wired up next to the fuse box. Not real fond of the cover, it just snaps in place. I'm looking to replace it with a block that has a screw on cover. For now I will zip tie it. Also got my new old lower cover in. It comes awfully close to the timing belt. Might need to modify it with a hammer. Lower intake is also installed. I didn't gasket match the heads or do any work on the lower. Maybe next time. 750CC injectors are installed and I just need to order a few fittings to finish the fuel lines. I also fixed the gauge mounting and have the gauges installed, but not wired in. Still need exhaust studs, (re)wire up and install the alternator, wire up the gauges, test the wiring, install the exhaust stuff, bolt up engine to crossmember, fix the intercooler, mount and connect oil filter block, tighten down the battery box.... Don't think I'll make the autocrosses/drift events at the end of this month.

VG30E/33E (not DE) will bolt up to the 71c (Nissan 300ZX trans), which can use the the same crossmember/mounts as the 71b (280Z trans). So, you can use the stock driveshaft and stuff. Not worth it. VG (and maybe VQ) will require custom exhaust manifolds, relocating the turbo, etc.

Found one mention, but no real info: http://oppositelock.jalopnik.com/i-went-to-bobs-big-boy-tonight-1523339979

Put timing belt on. New oil pump didn't have indent, so I sort of made one. I forgot how stupid the tensioning procedure is. After it's tightened your supposed to stick a 0.35mm feeler gauge between the belt and the tensioner. Why? Also have a proper lower timing cover on the way. Just need to put in that order for the spacer, fix some fuel lines and wiring and that should be it?

I never used to be able to do it either, it gave me the same message. Now I can though.

Allows use of OE or aftermarket Z32 underdrive dampers on the VG33. For me specifically, the VG33 (and OE Z32 pulleys for that matter) were too large in diameter, hitting my steering rack.

Judging from the options I had with the CAD software, 304 wasn't much softer than 4130 (which looked to be the hardest they offered). It's also 10x less expensive. Also, is the crank bolt supposed to compress the pulley and timing gear against the step in the crank? Or are they supposed to be 'flush' and take up roughly half the torque of the bolt?

Good point. Updated.

I need a spacer for my VG33 crank and Z32 pulley combo. I will be using eMachineShop to make it. Now, if I just make one it's $80. If I make 5 it's around $100. Anyone else interested in buying one so I can recoup some cost? They would be about $20 shipped assuming I get 5. More if less, less if more, but you save a lot more than getting one machined yourself (from this place, anyway). More if you wait until after the buy. I will be making this order this week regardless of how many people hop on board, so no lollygagging. This is needed for anyone running or planning on running a VG33 crank with a Z32 (OE or aftermarket) harmonic balancer/crank pulley. Here are my drawings so far. I've never designed anything via CAD, but this wasn't exactly a Saturn V rocket: It's 11mm thick, 52.5mm OD, 32.1 ID, and a roughly 5.2x2.8mm keyway. It will be machined out of 304 Stainless for durability.

I nearly forgot to remove and transplant the CHTS from old heads to new ones. Here it is with a new harness and and actual retaining clip. The old connector was severely corroded. After a few beers I figured out how to mount what was formerly known as the fusible links. I used the no longer used transistor ignition. 1970s transistor revealed: Take it apart, remove everything. Take back cover, grind sides off. Drill some holes: Mount fuse holder. Install and your sort of done. Still need to wire it up and cover it. Also installed DF fender liner. No more rocks. Installed starter, rest of transmission bolts. Tested out new shifter. Can't wait.

Shouldn't be too hard. Undo motor mounts, lift engine up. Then remove steering rack. I think.

Had a little bit of time to work on it. I took out the motor to get the clutch installed. Too cheap to get a real puller for the automatic spacer thing: Flywheel and pilot bushing installed (also tapered the inlet of the bushing with my dremel since I hammered the hell out of it): Really wish I could have put on a lightweight flywheel, it would better match the 800+ lbs weight difference between the car the flywheel was originally designed for. Blurry photo of my ACT street clutch being put back on. I found a alignment tool, thank the gods. This saved me an hour or two of engine wrestling. Also put on new VG33 (supercharged!) clutch plate bolts from Nissan. Since the VG33 has this fancy knock sensor ($250 new from Nissan!), I decided to at least hook it up and try it out with Megasquirt. Installed some -10 Push-lock lines for the oil filter relocation stuff. These 2 90s will go to 2 straights, in theory. I might need two more 90s (ugh, not cheap). And here it is so far. Engine isn't completely bolted to the transmission. Nor to the crossmember, but it is ready to be. Also put the 1/8" BSPT to -4 AN adapter on the oil pressure sender spot (above where the starter goes). The line reaches farther than I thought but I'll still need more line I'm betting.

It seems there's this idea popping up in the background that all dynos should output some perfect fixed power output for any given motor, otherwise they are completely unreliable. This is impossible, and it's not so black and white. To generate power, an engine depends on lots of things more or less external to itself. Coolant temperature, Air temperature, Air pressure, humidity, bearing grease temperature, etc. To discard all dyno results because they vary so much between days, dynos, and moon phases is dumb. Like FlawleZ said, it's a tool. The dyno is a really, really, useful tool. I would never seriously tune a car without it. It provides information, that it's. How good the information is depends on a variety of factors but if you know what you are doing you will control these as best as you can when you tune. The more data you have, the better. You pick one dyno and one day to tune, and you get it all hammered out. Max output numbers are meaningless--you focus on maximizing the area under the curve the best way possible for whatever engine configuration you have.

My 77 had them. The driver side fender was replaced at one point, but the liner was missing. It was hard to find one in good condition but someone on here got me a set. The new set's passenger side was beat up but I just needed the driver's side.

You can measure the impedance with a multimeter, if it's low impedance it will have <4 ohms or so, high will be >8 ohms.

low impedance is low impedance, stock resistors are fine.