BLOZ UP

Well I cleaned up some wiring and vacuum lines and got the child seat adapter belt. Put about 20 miles on it. Drives pretty well! Without lugging the new rebuild I can still feel the potential at 25% throttle at 3k RPM. It does want to die after deceleration for a few seconds but I need to re-route some vacuum lines and double-check everything. However, it's likely after getting everything set and breaking it in we will sell it. It's the wife's and our priorities have changed over the past 5 years.

See this thread: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/14482-87000-u0175-datsun-competition-seat/

Haven't worked on it. Collecting dust and rust. That Louisiana humidity just allows for the entire car to be "soaked" when the temperature drops, despite being in a garage. Whenever the Z32 is "done" I'll try and tune the VG33 to 16psi or so then rip it out and sell it. Then clean it all up, and eventually an LS2.

Hooked up many things. Electric fans and controller. Exhaust, wiring almost completely done (engine bay side, at least). Center console assembled. It runs and drives. Haven't driven it much, less than a mile total. Wideband is hooked up and car runs solid 14--14.7 at idle. Idle is still high but I've run out of adjustability from the IACV. Need to double check the vacuum lines. Still needs the passenger side floor cleaned up (ECU, fan controller mounted). Need to fix the A/C as it overpressurized and blew the safety pressure relief. There's a droplet of oil forming on the oil filter. Droplet of coolant on the rear of the engine somehow, but can't trace it. Nothing on the ground. Lifters are noisy af on startup after sitting for a while. But it goes away as the car warms up. Only took 5 years and one pandemic.

Damn, missed it by one day. Moved to to Baton Rouge, Louisiana. Here it is at my first Cars & Coffee. I realized I am now in LA, with NJ plates, and TX stickers since I never removed the reg/insp. sticker when I moved to NJ. Car has been with me a while. And as much as I don't like the VG that's in it ... it's been running for like 7 years without ... too many issues. None serious.

Yeah, but the steering wheel shakes quite severely at speed. Just really feel like the car is not where I want it. I love the body -- ain't selling it. But I hate the drivetrain and suspension. I also hate driving it in NJ traffic. In the truck everyone stays far away.

Got the tires swapped on the new wheels. Drove it to work the other day. Ran fine, but my stupid oil filter adapter (JB) welds leak. After I finish the Z32 I think I'll pull the engine on this. But I also got a '85 Chevy truck that I'm liking a lot so I'm also fixing that one up a bit. See ya next year!

Here for my yearly update. It starts, I have video of it. It also has no coolant, no exhaust the crank pulley isn't torqued down, there's no clutch pedal, coolant fan, or O2 sensors hooked up. But it runs! On 3 year old gas at that. Seemed to have a miss--but I'm going to have to hook everything up, drain and get fresh gas before firing it up again because I need to let it heat cycle to break in the next start. Hopefully no miss after that, if it really exists. See ya next year.

Ha. Had a kid. It put things in perspective. Things are returning to the new normal now though, so if it weren't so cold out I'd get stuff done.

Uh... haven't been here in a while. Got rid of the Sparco seat that didn't fit and the harness. Put stock one back in. Going to get a couple Corbeau Classic Buckets at some point. Got new wheels for it. Epsilon Mesh 3 piece. 16x7.5" all around, got for a good deal I think. Going to swap my 225/50s on to them, but need a trailer or truck to haul all 8 wheels to the shop to get them swapped. Glad I finally am getting rid of the XXRs. They are OK except for the weight, and I've heard of them (not necessarily this model but the dual bolt pattern ones) breaking during autocrosses. I've had them on the car for about 7 years now, put them on soon after getting the car, on a student's budget so it was long passed time. Anyway this is a long ass post about wheels so here's a photo: Thinking about redoing the centers in black. Or maybe red. But don't want a ketchup-mustard car. Probably black. And as much as I dislike chrome, it seems to work well for the barrels against the window trim. In other news I put a dent in one of the fenders after having to break into the garage . I put in a steel door though so at least that can't happen again. I'll go for a window next time.

Yep. Still not done. Got a driveshaft that fits. Ran some wiring. Rewired some connectors. Put some intake piping on. Ran some vacuum line. Need lots more vacuum line.

I replaced both of my flasher units with the superbrightled ones (which swap right in!) but I recall having issues with them still not flashing unless one on each side was incandescent.

IIRC, They all have 1 water temp. sensor. The stock gauge sender is on the RH side in the lower intake, and has a single spade and rectangular connector. All turbo ones have a temp switch near the water cock for the condenser fan. The ECU only uses the CHTS. The LH side has been plugged on all of mine, but I used and have seen it used for aftermarket gauge senders.

Adjust your required fuel to change the fueling overall. What size injectors?

LS motors run hot, IIRC. 220 is not uncommon. Meanwhile my VG33ET struggles to get to 190, even when sitting. So you still want more power? I am tempted to get an LSx (or LQ4) and turbo/twinturbo it. I am trying to find out at what point the aluminum blocks don't like boost, but am finding lots of various opinions.

I highly recommend a relay kit for the parking/signal lights and the headlights. You can also get LED bulbs that significantly reduce the load through the stock switch--negating the need for a relay for the parking lights.

Lol. One of these days I will install the CLSD and this brace that have both been sitting in my garage for ... uh.... 6 years now.

Most tires just have max pressure/bead seat pressure on the side. Door sill will have OE specs at OE weight. You might be able to go lower. Mine are at 32psi highway, I go to like 25 at the drags.

Replaced flywheel insert Heli-coiled the remaining flywheel threads (after finding out 3 were already replaced). Now it's 'balanced'. Put in 2 LC-2 widebands Put the engine in Ground down some of the transmission Put the transmission in Pulled the transmission out Ground the transmission some more Put the transmission in Started running wiring

In my VG33E+T and the two other VG30ETs before this I used the CHT sensor. It's much more "stable" than CLT. It also represents your actual engine temperature and not the coolant system temperature, but both are just as usable. You can switch between them with just some changes to the fan hysteris if you have a fan triggered via the CLT input. As for being "stable," my coolant temps would swing, say, +/- 10° C, as the fans cycle. My CHTS just goes between 5° C or so. This has the added bonus of, say on the dyno, letting me know when my engine is really too hot and needs to cool down vs just when the coolant has taken up a lot of heat.

Is it otherwise accurate? Sounds like it could be the output is not really programmed linearly. Narrowband sensor responses have a quadratic curve and "stick" to lean or rich and just kind of fly past 14.7 when switching from lean to rich or vice-versa. Did you tap it into the other analog out, same as the gauge?

Removed the auto trans gear selector and associated interior parts. Removed clutch firewall block off plate Wondering what this random green electronic controller is where the clutch pedal assembly goes Got a new new flywheel insert for the Fidanza flywheel. Almost ready to put the engine in. Need to clean the battery tray area up and get the clutch line routed.

What do you mean "sticky"? Can you get a video of it?

Made the 400HP club. Had problems getting the boost up to 16psi like I wanted, but got 12psi-14psi tuned close enough. Think I may have left some accel enrichment on or something. Would be nice to have a dyno hold the RPMs steadier so I don't have to keep track of so much while tuning.

Got the intake on, turbo inlets on, eBay downpipes on (side note: I'm not sure how ~20 ft of stainless tubing, flanges, and the TIG welding needed ends up being less than $100 shipped... I hope those poor TIG slaves are treated well), and did the intake coolant bypass with some gaudy blue silicone coolant hose (somehow ordered blue when I meant to get black). Engine just needs a few more vacuum lines hooked up and I think that is it. Started getting ready for the transmissions swap. Swapped out the shifter striking rod and shifter assembly on the transmission. Moved on the the car's interior for the first time and removed the trim and automatic shifter assembly.