BLOZ UP

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Spend a bit more and get a Diablo.

10 psi run. Note rich misfires at start of 4th gear pull. Also my logging crapped out. Was trying out the new TunerStudio Ultimate, not really sure what I was doing.

Excellent build thread. Just went through all of it. I've know the feeling with the custom fitting of alternators, etc. Think I'll be doing turbo LS in the future.

First run:

Finally dyno'd this thing. Tried to hit 8psi (spring pressure), 12psi and 16psi, but only 8psi and under is tuned well. I was able to get to 10psi in the "3" runs I was allowed. 310 HP / 330 Ft.-lbs at 8 psi 360 HP / 375 Ft.-lbs at 10 psi Have some video I'm working on but it isn't that exciting.

Thanks. It has been. I attempted to fix an oil leak from a pinhole leak from the weld on my oil pump (god what a terrible idea that was--welding on the oil pump without a pressure test afterwards). It has slowed, but is still there. Otherwise it runs aight.

There was a trigger angle bug, that I tried to get more information on but was rebuffed. I had an issue where my trigger angle was different all of the sudden (between starts). After updating to the firmware that had that bug fixed, it jumped back. Whether it was the cause or I was on crack has yet to be determined.

Changed the oil and it is hibernating for winter. Have one small oil leak I'd like to fix. Maybe do some bushing work. Maybe rebuild and put in the LSD I have.

Got the rebuild kit. Got the rotating assembly balanced. Got NA oil squirters under protest. Got shifter linkage Got some silicone turbo oil lines Honed block. Put oil squirters in and crank: Still lots to do: Get turbos reconditioned Clean engine bay Clean engine parts Maybe p&p heads a bit Need new exhaust Rebuild lifters Resurface flywheel Clean and fix transmission: shift linkage, rear seal Clean oil pan.

Can you switch to the MS2? MS2 provides better features and timing resolution for the L. Injector drivers going out would get worse and worse as the car ran.

Went to another autocross. More importantly, I made it there, raced, and made it back home--without calling a tow truck! Fun times. I have a couple other runs, but nothing really exciting happens. First time with my slicks--they are a lot more predictable than streets it feels. A lot less lift-off oversteer as well.

Photobucket appears to be freaking out. There's a night autocross next weekend, last of the season. I plan on being there. Still need to remove the bump steer spacer to fit the front slicks, but I may just keep them in (such a pain to drive without them) and just run slicks on the rear. Also need to top off the transmission fluid...

Finally got around to replacing the stock overflow tank that was ziptied to the front grill: That's some .125" wall 3" piping with .0625" (or so) sheet (grinded round since I don't have a plasma cutter or decent bandsaw), drilled for an eBay cap and nipple. Then I drilled out the cap for a vent. There's a hose on the inside that connects the nipple to right next to the bottom. Welds could be better, but I haven't welded in months, so it could be worse. Here it is de-polished (which is probably a mistake) and mounted. And I also mounted and connected my horns back up. Finally.

Send me a pm.

Fixed a fuel leak, was a loose hose that was leaking onto the pump inlet, and dripping right next to a AN connection, making me think that the pump inlet AN hose was leaking which was really weird. Zip tied the hose and cleaned up the routing a bit. Cleaned up the engine bay a tad. Got a laptop that works with my USB Serial adapter. Found out my O2 sensor was throwing error code 8 (which, IIRC, I've had before). Just ordered a replacement and installed it. AFR works now! Retuned VE table a little as I set it (IIRC) 20% richer when my O2 went AWOL. Which was probably a tad too liberal a change (should have done 5-10% max). Leaned out WUE and crank PW%. Ready for dyno? Think I'll do an oil and plug change beforehand.

ARP did send me a replacement, which is good. That could have been a huge hassle. Got the crank back, didn't take any pictures except for bearing information. Dropped off the heads and got them back (no pics of them after cleaning). They did not get shaved as I asked him to not do it unless they needed it. Might regret it, then again I can always get them shaved later if it keeps popping head gaskets. And we finally ordered a rebuild kit. Z1 Motorsports stock rebuild kit with forged pistons. To do list: Clean engine bay Clean all parts being reused. Check out turbos (one exhaust exducer was chipped) Check injectors (Nismo 550cc?) Take apart interior console shifter area, figure out what interior parts we need Replace brake pedal Install clutch pedal, master and assembly Clean transmission Order replacement shift thing for transmission Grind bell housing Install phase Neighbor's brother picked up a NA Z32 (91, IIRC). Needs some TLC in some areas but otherwise a good deal for the price. I took a look at it for him.

Looks good to me. Did you consider replacing the needle moving mechanism with a stepper? Or is this to retain stock gauges without any modifications? Logic looks fine to me. Only things I would do are just some convenience and code reducing changes: Move and rename const ints out of methods into global namespace (or whatever it is in processing), eg. oilPressureMax, etc. Generalize the hysteresis idiom into a function (could also use an 'else' clause in front of the second if statement, but that's minor) Generalize the gauge setting into a function, eg. 'setGauge(oilOutput, sensorData, gaugeData)' or something like that.

Speedhut makes replacement gauges with signal and highbeam indicators. Just need a parking brake LED added, which they can do IIRC. Way easier.

Got rods back from machine shop, dropped off crank for cleaning and stuff. Rods were cleaned, checked, and honed. One of the ARP bolts is incorrect, but ARP says they will send me a new one. Cool! Forgot to get bearing grades and measure journals so I can't order the rebuild kit quite yet.

Fixed the speedometer and tach. Was a blown fuse. Not sure how it blew, perhaps from wiring in the previous fuel pump shenanigans. Speedometer, tach gauges Wire in LC-1 LED and button permanently Clean up ECU area Wire in knock sensor Bleed clutch Bleed brakes (and fix reservoir?) Remove RCAs so I can put on my 15" wheels. (Need 12mm x 1.25 x 30mm bolts) Heat wrap wiring on frame rail(s) Cleanup wiring on frame rails, engine bay Fix exhaust clamp near rear end Fix/replace coolant overflow Add PCV system w/catch can Fix small oil leak. Top off transmission fluid Rebuild LSD and replace stock one Put in new bushings

Here's the new pump: Installation was easy: Didn't drain the tank, so that saved a bunch of time. Just pushed the pump feed line up higher than the tank and luckily there wasn't enough left for a siphon. Removed all the janky relay and wiring for the brushless Fuelab pump. Fixed my radio circuit that I used for it, and fixed my cranking pulsewidths. Started right up! Pump is very quiet, relative to the Fuelab and Aeromotive pumps. I cannot hear it from inside the car when the engine is on. However, I thought my speedometer and tachometer gauges would work with the radio circuit repaired, but they don't. And my wideband was working during warmup but quit right before going for a test drive. So I guess my gauges (the 6 other gauges in my radio bezel and center gauge spots all work fine) are powered some other way. Will have to dissassemble and figure it out (and record it somewhere since I've got a lot of these wiring tweaks but my recollection is approaching zero). So, for my records, some things to fix: Speedometer, tach gauges Bleed clutch Bleed brakes (and fix reservoir?) Remove RCAs so I can fix my 15" wheels. Heat wrap wiring on frame rail(s) Cleanup wiring on frame rails, engine bay Fix exhaust clamp near rear end Fix/replace coolant overflow Add PCV system w/catch can Fix small oil leak. Top off transmission fluid Rebuild LSD and replace stock one Put in new bushings

Dissassembled the motor. Bearings were pretty worn: And then there was this: The rod bearings were also just as worn, except one of the (#4 or 5?) that looked really worn, possibly causing some knock. Got the engine cleaned up and checked out: Going to double check the bores, then measure the crank and see what grades we need to order. Looking at the Z1 rebuild kit with forged pistons, new oil pump, etc.

Replaced alternator. Still wasn't charging. Check fuses (with a meter this time), and my 80A alternator fuse was blown. But not immediately visible. The end cap had seperated from the center fuse portion. It was only visible at a certain angle. Yep. New alternator was somewhat of a waste. Went to a meet on Wednesday, and made it there and back without any issues. Oh, who am I kidding. It was lean the whole time. So, I richened it up 20% for the way back. Drove much better, could hit 1-2psi without it cutting out like before, but still lean so I kept out of it. Oh, and then my AFRs pegged out lean shortly after starting the return trip. Sensor could use a calibration, it came back a couple times very briefly. But wait, there's more. I thought I wasn't using the radio circuit, which I used for the pump relay's relay's relay. Oops, my main Speedhut gauges were using it, so no tach or speedo. Also, my inverter was plugging in to it as well. So couldn't charge my laptop. Good thing the battery lasted the whole round trip for logging. I did pick up the Bosch 044, and I got fittings for it. It should fit with room to spare, as the current pump is somewhat close to the rear end, and the inlet is also somewhat closer to the half shaft. It flows like 50% of what my current pump does, is not brushless, and will hopefully "Just Work" so I can stop this no pump during cranking priming bullshit.

Need more video! Turbo LS is what I want to do next!