GrayZee

As far as pics go, there really isn't much to see. It looks pretty much the same as a stock turbo setup. The MAF is a little bit smaller than the AFM but can still be used with the stock rubber boot that goes from the AFM to the turbo. You can also easily get a cone style air filter that can go directly on the other side of the MAF. Assuming that you are using a 82/83 turbo distributor the Vg30 CAS wheel is inside, so again.. nothing to see.

I sent PM's to everyone that was interested in a z31 kit. If for some reason you got missed drop me a line!

Either way you need a z31 crank trigger wheel. The z31 distributor obviously already has one, but if you use a 82/83 turbo distributor then you need to take out the S130 trigger wheel and replace it with a z31 wheel. (the slits in the wheel are different) It fits right in a 82/83 dizzy. Or I can put it another way. To run a z31 CAS on a n/a engine you would need the following parts: 1. 82/83 280zx turbo distributor 2. 82/82 280zx turbo distributor/oil pump driveshaft 3. a Vg30 CAS wheel OR 1. z31 distributor (84-89) 2. adapter kit (which I plan on selling soon) Assuming you had all those parts then you would still need a modified 280zxt injection harness. A z31 harness could be used as well but would require more work to fit the L28.

It can be done, the biggest challenge is the crank angle sensor. You would need to get a distributor from a 82 or 83 turbo engine, you would also need the oil pump shaft to go with it. I am working on a way to adapt a z31 distributor directly to a n/a L block. Once I've built one that works well I will start selling them. I am also selling wiring harnesses for that application too.

Ok, maybe some of the differences are because of the 81 harness (I've never really looked at a 81 zxt) I wasn't trying to "throw stones" I just think that no information is better than false information. I have a good deal of knowledge on these injection harnesses and I could honestly say that alot of what I read looked really messed up.

Ok, maybe some of the differences are because of the 81 harness (I've never really looked at a 81 zxt) I wasn't trying to "throw stones" I just think that no information is better than false information. I have a good deal of knowledge on these injection harnesses and I could honestly say that alot of what I read looked really messed up.

Maybe it just needs a new clutch? If you do the clutch, make sure you machine the flywheel. Even simplier yet, check the clutch fluid and have somebody press the clutch while you watch the slave cylinder travel. If the slave dosn't move very much try pumping it and then see what happens.

I have also thought of making a webpage explaining all the details but I never did get around to it. I read the info on your site and I'm sorry to say that it left me a little confused. Here is a list of reasons why: 1. I've never heard of a zxt using a dropping resistor. 2. The 6 pin connector that you show does not look like the one I've seen on turbo harnesses (they are a 8 pin) 3. The picture of the TPS looks like a injector plug to me (TPS's have 3 terminals even though only 2 of them are actually used) 4. The wire you say MUST be grounded or it won't run.. Well I never used it. It's hard to tell from the info you have but I think that is the fuel pump modulator ground. (which I never used) 5. When I first got my engine running I didn't have the tach figured out yet. I've heard mention of the tach resistor before and I've never bothered searching for it. I simply just hooked up the original - coil wire back up to the turbo coil and the tach started working. I'm not trying to sound like a jerk here but if your info left me feeling confused I wonder how people trying to do a turbo swap will feel?

I have also thought of making a webpage explaining all the details but I never did get around to it. I read the info on your site and I'm sorry to say that it left me a little confused. Here is a list of reasons why: 1. I've never heard of a zxt using a dropping resistor. 2. The 6 pin connector that you show does not look like the one I've seen on turbo harnesses (they are a 8 pin) 3. The picture of the TPS looks like a injector plug to me (TPS's have 3 terminals even though only 2 of them are actually used) 4. The wire you say MUST be grounded or it won't run.. Well I never used it. It's hard to tell from the info you have but I think that is the fuel pump modulator ground. (which I never used) 5. When I first got my engine running I didn't have the tach figured out yet. I've heard mention of the tach resistor before and I've never bothered searching for it. I simply just hooked up the original - coil wire back up to the turbo coil and the tach started working. I'm not trying to sound like a jerk here but if your info left me feeling confused I wonder how people trying to do a turbo swap will feel?

Did you throw it away? I really don't care how butchered it is as all I really need is all the connectors.

Or you buy mine off me. I got two, and an 88 ecu. Sorry for the plug No prob, Violacleff seeing you never did get your ecu working, how about sending me your old wiring harness as a core donation?

Ok, if you end up shopping for a z31 ecu here are some things to consider.. 84-86 N/A ecu's are NOT re-tunable and would not work properly on any turbo application. 84-86 turbo ecu's are NOT re-tuneable either but will work with a turbo application as long as you are using the stock 260cc injectors and a z31 MAF (this is the weakest setup you can get but it is still far superior to a 280zxt ecu with a AFM) 87-89 N/A ecu's are re-tunable and MUST be re-tuned to work properly on a turbo application. 87-89 turbo ecu's are re-tunable and can be run as they are (with stock injectors and maf) OR they can be tuned. Any ecu that is re-tuned will have the benifits of a better timing advance curve and will have a noticable increase in power over a un-tuned ecu. There are a few injector upgrades availible if the ecu is re-tuned. Larger injectors will allow for a greater amount of HP to be made as the stock injectors will lean out at roughly 250hp. If for some reason you have a hard time finding a z31 MAF, re-tunable ecu's can be tuned to run a ford cobra maf or a z32 maf (90's 300zx)

Did you notice my recent thread? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99567

So far I have gotten several responses (not bad for one day) I have emailed them back with a bunch of questions regarding their setup and intentions on what they plan to do. Rather than email everyone with the same old questions I'll post them here. First off it sounds like everyone so far is planning a turbo swap with all the ideal parts to begin with (82/83 turbo engines with wiring harness. This is good as it will keep the cost down (for them anyway) I started looking into making harnesses from scratch and so far all the sources I've found for brand new connectors are VERY expensive. I would be happy to make a harness from scratch, but it you want one, you'll have to cough up the extra dough. Your cheapest option would be to send me a turbo harness and have me work from that. If need be, any 300zx harness will also work, but it's a little more work to modify it. I haven't started yet on a adapter kit for using a Vg30 distributor on a L engine but so far nobody needs one. If you plan on contacting me about a harness please include the following information... 1. Do you already have a 82/83 280zx turbo distributor? If you dont, you'll need to get one, or my adapter kit for a Vg30 one. 2. Do you have a harness to send me? what year/model is it? 3. Do you have z31 ecu? give me the code number from it.. here's a example: A18-681-M91 4. Do you want your ecu to be re-tuned? (even if everything else remains stock, there are still benifits to a re-tuning) 5. Do you have a z31 MAF? (a z32 maf or a ford corba maf will also work, but the ecu MUST be tuned to run those) 6. Are you planning on running different injectors? Only a handful of injector types are available for use on a re-tune. People ask about running all different kinds, and while they are all possible, we cannot tune a engine for use with a injector that we have not dealt with before (not without seeing the whole car and fine tuning it) It is best to contact us BEFORE buying any injectors. 7. If you run out and buy a MAF from a wrecking yard, make sure you grab the electrical plug that goes with it. (and leave as much wire as possible on the connector) That way you can send it to me along with the rest of the wiring. 8. What sort of coil are you running? You'll need a Nissan coil trigger from a 280zxt, z31, maxima, pathfinder, ect. Let me know what you have and possibly send me the electrical connector for it. 9. If you are running a older engine, does it have a cylinder head temp sensor? If not, you will need to find a way to add one to your engine. That's all the questions for now, but I'll likely come up with a few more later.. Ha ha..

The oil pump mounts up the same, the drive gear piece is only different at the top where it connects to the distributor. The N/a model has a single spade offset from the shaft. The turbo model looks more like multi-toothed gear. I'm sure you could mount a turbo distributor on a N/a engine as long as you had the oil pump drive gear to go with it.

Over the past year or so I've recieved several Emails asking for help with wiring problems on the L28/z31 turbo swap. I have tried to help most of them but I've become very frustrated because I've realized that it is near impossible to explain to people what to do online (especially when you are dealing with someone that has a very limited knowlege) I've been considering the idea of making complete wiring harnesses from scratch that are tailor made to fit your Z car with only minor additional connections to me done. I'm hoping to make them easy enough that a moron could do it. (and no that's not a challenge) I would make them with the z31 ecu in mind with the fuel pump relay, MAF connector already installed. Every sensor/injector plug would be labeled like this... Mass air flow Air regulator Throttle position Injector #1,2,3,4,5,6 Crank angle (distributor) Head temperature Ignition coil trigger The additional wires that would have to connected elsewhere in the car would be fully labeled and would include these.. Battery (+ and - ) Fuel pump (+ and - ) Ignition switch (start and ON circuits) A total of 6 fully labelled wires. Does it sound all that hard? The harness would also contain fusible links, a mini fuse box, a injector resistor box and one inline fuse for the fuel pump. I will only make them for use on a z31 ecu. One problem is that to use that ecu on a L engine you need a Vg30 CAS disc with a very specific distubutor. (one from a 82 or 83 L28et) Not always the easiest to find. However I am also going to work on a way to adapt a Vg30 distributor to a L engine. A Vg30 distributor would be alot easier to come by and would also come complete with the proper CAS disc. I wanted to make them using all brand new connectors but it seems that it would add at least $100 on to the cost of the harness. I think I may have to just go with junkyard parts and get customers to send in wiring harness "cores" BernardD (the local HybridZ z31 ecu tuner) lives close by and we have discussed the possibility of selling the wiring harnesses complete with his re-tuned ecu's I would like to sell complete kits that would include... re-tuned z31 ecu custom wiring harness Vg30 distrubutor adapter and possibly injectors to match the ecu Right now I would like input from you guys so that I can gauge how much (if any) interest there is for a product like this.

Yes it is different.

Just a suggestion, I've heard of these issues before and one mechanic that used to work on Z's alot said that he used to re-wire the ignition module and mount it somewhere alot cooler. (like up by the headlight) He said it took too much heat being right behind the radiator's flow thru air and would screw them up. Personally I never had too many problems with those units so I never bothered. You might wanna consider it though, also make sure you smear some di-electric grease on the backside where it mounts on the dizzy if you are gonna mount it there. If you end up needing another one, I think I have one somewhere.

Yeah, sounds like the same book to me.. My harness does not look like that one so there has to be a different diagram out there. I will likely do without the yellow wire, but I would sure like to know what it's purpose is. Usually the only thing I ever want a manual for is for torque specs and wiring diagrams. Ticks me off when they don't have any decent diagrams. I have a Haynes 300zx manual... and it's USELESS!

I had a slight wiring problem with my Pathfinder last night. Turned out the two pin plug right on the starter was messed up. One wire is black and the other is yellow. Can anyone tell me what the purpose of the yellow wire is? Connecting the black to + will activate the starter but the black one will not. I had assumed that the yellow wire was to feed a circuit to the ecu and would give a + signal when the starter was turning, but I ran a test light to that terminal while the starter was running.. no power.. I only have one electrical schematic but it is what the book calls a "typical one" For a variety of Nissan trucks and it does not help me out at all. Anyone have FSM for a 87 Pathfinder that can look it up for me?? I need to wire up a new circuit and if the yellow wire does not have a meaningful purpose I will just leave it out. BTW, my vehicle has NO clutch switch or inhibitor. Thanks.

You want to install it in the lower part of the thermostat housing (below the thermostat) The coolant in the rad is too cool and won't give proper reading of the engine's temperature.