GrayZee

Yes combustion chamber design is a big part of it. The eclipse also no doubt had a intercooler, and good ecu tuning.

That's not how it works, the "R" terminal is a leftover from the oldskool way of building cars. No Chevy V8's have actually used the R terminal since the very early 70's You see that terminal is for a car equipped with a points style distributor. Those ignition systems require a ballast resistor or the coil would fry itself in a short period of time. The "R" terminal is a bypass to allow full voltage to the coil during startup. I didn't bother explaining the purpose of the R terminal because it is of no use these days. (unless you are actually running a points style distributor?)

There should be a "S" imprinted on the soleniod right at the terminal. The other terminal would have a "R" If memory serves me right, with the starter was bolted to the engine, the terminal closest to the center of the engine would be the S terminal.

I don't know any exact numbers, but I'm sure milling your head won't increase your compression ratio THAT much. It is 7.3:1 stock, so you got a fair bit of breathing room. Most people would welcome the increased CR. I wouldn't advise using low octane fuel on a L28et unless you have your boost turned lower than stock or have some other method of controlling detonation like a intercooler or water injection.

144 views and only 7 posts! So much for popularity.

No doubt everyone has discovered information on HybridZ about their Zcar. Be it how to swap a V8 or a turbo, better brakes ect. I was wondering if we were to post the names of the people that helped us out the most on our Hybrid journeys if the same names would come up over and over, or if it would be a spread out variety of names. Everybody cough up a few names and we'll see.. I'll start with Drax240z and Afshin (oh yes, there are more)

No Canadian licences on there.. unless there is a site for that too?

I have them on my car, they look good, but my autobody man wasn't too impressed with them as he had a hell of a time lining them up. It's almost like they were "too short" for the car. I dunno how he did it, but he managed to get them looking good somehow.

Is that with a stock T3? if so that's pretty awesome. Congrats.

Intercooler? we don't need no stinkin intercooler! LOL

I haven't seen any problems yet. The system works flawlessly. It keeps my pinging at bay and there are no bog issues from the spray hitting too hard or too soon. I maintain a steady 55psi under full boost (15psi) If I get a pressure drop from running more (or bigger) nozzles I will be running two pumps by that time anyway. I'm a bit of a ways before I will be running more boost as I still have the stock T3. If ever it should become a problem I will get myself a Surflo pump. At least with the gauge I will know that I am experiencing pressure drop.

I got a request to take some pics of my alky injection setup. If anyone is interested.. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=582729#post582729

I had a request to take some pics of my setup, I figured I might as well share them with everybody. http://www.members.shaw.ca/icecube/Alckyinjection/ The extra reservoir is from a 280zx and I used the facory bracket to hold it in place. I simply made up battery bracket from angle iron, welded it on and powder-coated it. The zx's have a low level sensor to warn you you are running out of washer fluid. The sensor happens to fit in a older Z's reservoir just fine. I ran a T in the line and mated it up to the 2nd reservoir so that the pump can draw from both bottles and thus more capacity. They are both sitting at the same height so they both sit at the same fluid level. I hooked up the sensor to light up the low fuel light (which does not work from the gas tank anymore) I also do not have the fasten seatbelt light hooked up, instead it lights when the pump energizes. That way I know the pump is working. To mount the nozzles I simply bought two 3/8ths pipe couplers. I cut them in half and welded them to the J pipe. To be sure of the nozzles getting proper spray I ran a T in the pressure line and added a gauge. It is simply a 1.5" autometer fuel pressure gauge. Running a gauge like this is normally illegal, but that is because running fuel into your cockpit is very dangerous. I figure washer fluid won't kill anyone. The pressure switch I used works very well. I got it from a guy that does air control systems for HVAC in buildings. I imagine you could buy one from any industrial plumbing/electrical supplier. I originally used a Honeywell/Hobbs pressure switch, but I wasn't impressed with it at all. Turn it a 8th of a turn and the trigger point will change by like 3psi. The one I use now if VERY accurate. Here is the info on the switch: Barksdale "the little general" part# MSPS-DD15-Q47 runs from 1.5-15psi 15A 125-250VAC (12vdc works fine, but I did use a relay to turn on the pump) For a pump, I simply used the headlight washer pump from a 280zx (300zx's have them too) Next season I intend to get another pressure switch and run two pumps in stages. Right now, both nozzles kick in at 5psi. I want to make the 2nd (or maybe 3rd) nozzle to kick in at about 12psi. This should allow me to run more fluid with less fear of bogging down the engine from too much fluid. Plus it should consume less fluid that way. The only other component that I did not take a pic off is the check valve. You need a check valve to keep the fluid from leaking past the nozzles into the intake. I got mine from a store that sells sprayer parts. I mounted it close to the nozzles to keep the lines full of fluid, therefore decreasing spray delays.

That Laurel strikes me as some sort of really old skool Skyline.. Actually it is very similar to a 77-79 810 coupe

I think the idea of slamming a L28et in a old maxima or 810 is cool. However you should know that it will not simply just bolt right in like it will in a Z. The old 810's and maxes had L24e engines. They will bolt to the tranny, to the engine mounts, but the problem is the oil pan. A Z engine has a rear sump pan and the 810/max has a front sump. (it overhangs the front of the crossmember rather than the rear of the crossmember) I think the L28et block could be modified to accept the other pickup tube, but some drilling to the block would be required.

The only way I know of testing it would be to install it in a known working car and see what happens. If it is any help the only part on a dizzy that could be faulty is the CAS sensor, and the CAS from a z31 is basically the same thing. They are sometimes screwed in differently (from the top instead of the bottom) However a trip to the hardward store for some nice thin bolts with nuts to match does the trick.

No problem, you will be getting my bill in the mail shortly.. LOL

How much power you can safely run is not a easy equation. Intercoolers/Water injection certainly help but I think what is even more important is tuning. Running too lean or too much advance is sure to cause big problems. Water injection (or alchohol injection) is spraying a mist into the air intake to cool the air charge down. A common thing is to use simple windshield washer fluid as it contains alchohol, is cheap and readily available. Alchohol will also increase the octane rating of your fuel. I got a extra washer fluid reservoir, a headlight washer pump from a zx, electric pressure switch, relay, and a couple of spay nozzles mounted in the J pipe. The system works quite well. I set up the switch to turn the pump on at 5+ psi, I have no bog issues and can hit 15psi with no intercooler. It does not even use up that much washer fluid. Less than a gallon per tank.

Buy a air horn kit, that should make her happy. They really get a person's attention when the driver beside you is on their cell phone and is drifting into your lane. I have one on my motorcycle too. Saved my skin a couple of times.

Since I first did my L28et swap I have upgraded to the z31 ecu and also swapped my original coil for a 87 Pathfinder coil/trigger. The newer style ignition triggers are compatable but are wired up slighty different. I will try to answer your questions but I have to warn you I am going strictly from memory as I haven't looked at a L28et trigger in a while. I think I already answered your YW wire. (pin #5 of the ecu) The negative and positive coil wires should have been attatched to the trigger, unless you removed it. I believe there is also a blue wire on the coil negative, you can use that to run your tach. If you can find the negative wire from your original coil you can just hook it up to the new coil negative and your tach should work. The black wire (I believe with a white stripe?) goes to the trigger from a switched ignition source.

is it a 280z? There should be a three pin connector on a harness going to the gas tank. Unlplug that connector, grounding one of the pins going into the harness should turn the light on if the key is in the "on" position. Dont worry about grounding the wrong pin, as it shouldn't hurt anything. This will prove your light works, but the only way to prove the sender is working is to let it run low.

Vg30et and L28et engines both had low compression ratios. Low CR is good for keeping detonation at bay. You have to consider that Nissan made these engines to be turbocharged with no other systems to control detonation (like a intercooler or water injection) I see no reason why you can't boost a higher compression NA engine but I would make sure it had one of these items.

I always thought it would be nice to have a hoist in the garage even if the ceiling isn't high enough. Even if you only lifted the car high enough to do brake work or whatever, it would sure beat jackstands. If you had to do something that requires walking under the car (like a tranny) You could always get yourself a nice chair with wheels to sit on. Kind of ghetto, but still would beat lifting a tranny while laying on your back.

I had that same problem with my Vg30et swap in my Pathfinder. Good news, there is a alternative. I had a extra L28et turbocharger laying around and guess what? The wastegate housings are interchangable! I just had to change some of the bolt lengths to suit the new housing If you want to see one have a look at the pics I posted for my Pathfinder swap. BTW, I also have flanges for the downpipe. http://www.members.shaw.ca/icecube/PathyPipes/

this is a video one of our member's cars (Brad D) he got tired of his Rb26 Z and built a crazy SX with a Gt35r turbo, dyno'd at 511HP http://www.ka-t.org/brad/turbokabrad1.zip