GrayZee

Yeah I'm starting to think that is good advise to anyone doing a turbo swap. They should use the 280zx ecu and afm FIRST then when they have done that successfully THEN think about doing a z31/maf swap. Especially if the person has a limited knowledge of vehicle electrical systems. There are enough people out there who have problems wiring up the stock system, let alone the upgrade. If I had a few wiring harnesses laying around as "cores" then I'd start selling ready made "plug in and fully labeled" wiring harnesses for the swap.

I don't think there is any precise formula as that it would be too hard to calculate for the way every different engine responds to boost (and avoiding detonation) I think it would be easier for you to list off your setup and maybe somebody has enough knowledge and experience with that engine and can give a rough answer. For example, there is a load of knowlege here on the L28et, most people here seem to agree that 9 or 10 psi can be done without a intercooler and 20+psi can be done provided it is setup properly (good ecu tuning, timing, intercooler, strong bottom end, ect.. ) Of course people that are running 20psi realize that they are playing with fire and could possibly blow their engine at anytime.

Pressure VS airflow is more about your engine displacement (and intake plumbing) The more air you force into a small area the greater the pressure will be. So if you have a 2000cc engine then 10psi requires a certain amount of air, a 4000cc engine would require roughly twice as much air to acheive 10psi (depending on intake manifold, intercooler, plumbing, ect.) Having a bigger turbo on a smaller engine just means that the tubine will not have to spin as fast to push the same air as a smaller unit and can ultimatly reach even higher pressures if the engine is small enough. However if the turbo does not have to work as hard, less heat will be created. The downside of having a bigger turbo is that the lag factor will be increased. Picture a stock L28 turbocharger mounted on a big ole Kenworth highway tractor, I'm sure it would spool up INSTANTANIOUSLY but I doubt it could push enough air to pressurize an engine that size to even 2psi and it would probably burn out the turbo bearings in a matter of minutes.

Not sure where you can get connectors like that, any chance you can just slide on spade connectors? As for your leaking terminals, go to the local auto-parts store, hardware store, wal-mart, home depot ect.. and buy a tube of a product called "seal all" It's great stuff, like a yellowish glue that seals everything (including gasoline) It'll fix your sender up like new. I seem to remember that those years of Z's (73-74) actually used two fuel pumps. One electric and one mechanical one.

Assuming you wired it correctly the fuel pump would not run at all if the ECU was toast.

Too many variables to answer, compression ratio, head design, fuel octane, intercooler, outside temp, air/fuel ratio and timing to name a few.

Ha ha.. that's pretty funny! It's sure is easy enough to put the MAF in backwards, at least now we all know how it behaves with the MAF mixed up so we will know how to fix the problem when we screw it up (could happen..)

Yeah that's a tough one, now change that to a red-head and that's easy.

The Victoria-British catalog has a VIN# number breakdown as well.

The only problem I can see with it is if there are some light posts or parking curbs buried under the snow. If so he could have caused damage to those (although I'm sure the curbs would have done alot more damage to his car if he had hit them) The university cops sound like a bunch of pricks if you ask me, but in the end if he was on university property I guess they can ticket him if they want. I think a better way of dealing with it would have been to go talk to him and tell him that he was not welcome in the parking lot and simply tell him to leave.

I saw a website on that once, it said to use the front of the Z tranny and the center and rear section of the KA tranny (meaning take both trannys completely apart and make one out of two) Found the link.. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/240sxtransmissioninstall/index.html

Yes, I am still running the stock Nissan L28turbo and that is what the flanges were designed for. I can get them water-jet cut out of 1/2" stainless steel or laser-cut out of two 1/4 peices and then fused together.

If all you need is a SS flange, I can sell you one for a T3

Good to know, I guess it's a matter of playing around with the angles. I am just saying that as that was my experience when I gave my old 2.5 DP to a buddy with a T5. The angles were already determined, so we did what we had to to MAKE it fit.

I knew that, I was just curious what kind of tranny.. auto versions had a engine oil cooler.

It can certainly be done (I have a NA ecu in my L28et) However the only problem is that the NA ecu makes the timing advance very rapidly. This would be like playing with fire under boost. I'm willing to bet it will detonate like crazy. However if the ecu is re-tuned for a turbo application then it's no problem.

What year is it? auto or manual trans? I believe the gear ratio would be 3.54

If your engine is fully warmed up when you shut it off, the temperature will RISE. This is normal as the water pump has stopped pushing the water. Ever noticed in a FWD car (most all of them have electric fans) that when you shut the car off you can hear the fan start up as you are walking away from the car. The electic fan will continue to run until the coolant in the rad is cooled back to a proper level. This usually only takes a minute. In your case Innerware, I think your engine gets hotter after it sits a short time and gives you starting issues. A electic fan MAY solve this problem. Make sure you have the main feed for the fan coming from the battery and not from the ignition or accessory. This way your fan can run for a minute or two after you walk away from the car. As for your alternator, I think it will be fine. If your battery dies after a few minutes of running a electric fan then it's time to get a new battery anyway.

The key is to put the increaser first then make the pipe go straight out from the turbo for a couple of inches. Then when it is past the widest part of the transmission THEN make the 45 degree nose-dive. Check the pic here.. http://members.shaw.ca/icecube/DPside.jpg Of course depending on the pipe you use it might have a thick wall (with a larger outer diameter) Than could cause problems as my exhaust has ZERO tolerance to be any tighter. The pipe does not seem to hit the firewall even when the engine torques but it is definatly pushed to the limit.

When you are finished send me your old z31 wiring harness... I would like to see where everything went wrong.

What about the old Volkswagons? Seriously though, I don't think there is a need to argue here, I think the moral of the story should be that if you run a electric fan you should not "ghetto rig" your Z.. Control it with a thermostat, c'mon don't our Z's deserve better than that? If you need to drive it with the fan blasting all the time while you are waiting to get thermostat parts then fine, I'm sure it won't hurt anything. I remember last year when I pulled my Z out of storage the first place I drove it was to my buddy's place to fabricate a new exhaust. I had just put in a new rad and for some reason I can't remember I didn't have the fan. So I drove it without one.. It was still quite cool here and I knew that there was no way it was gonna overheat in a short trip. Of course I installed the fan while the exhaust was being done.

Looks correct to me, the oil inlet is on the top, and oil outlet on the bottom. The remaining ports will be for water.

I also have a 3" exhaust with a flow-thru muffler. It definatly has a deep exotic tone to it but it definatly isn't all that loud. A honda with a coffee-can muffler or a harley is definatly alot louder!! One thing about some frequencies is that some of them carry very far even if they are not that loud. My car idling outside can be clearly heard inside my house (and the neighbor's houses too)