GrayZee

It could have something to do the the efi relay. When you turn the key to on, the ecu sends a signal to the efi relay to turn on the afm and cas, but it also sends a signal back to the ecu to tell the main circuits to turn on. It's almost like as if the ecu has two levels of being "turned on" Anyway, perhaps there is a bad connection in there somewhere or the efi relay isn't working properly anymore.

I can get you flanges for the stock nissan L28et turbo. I could get other flanges too if I had (or knew of one) to compare it to. Worst case senario is that you'd have to send me a gasket in order to match it up. At any rate it certainly wouldn't be anywhere near that expensive.

I dunno about a dyno run.. I'll likely take it to the track first. My et times would give me a rough idea on HP. It'll basically be a stock z31 engine with a tuned ecu, mandrel 2.5" exhaust, alchohol injection and about 14 psi of boost. Not sure if using 4wd would help or hurt my launch, guess we'll find out. I figure once I get going in 1st I can do a double shift into 2nd/2wd Nothing like seeing all four wheels smokin.. Pehaps I'll have to leave it in 4wd through 2nd as well... As for it being done, it runs and drives but I still have to finish the exhaust, get a electric fan, bov, boost gauge, put the front diff back in.. and several odds and ends. *sigh* It's been in my buddy's body shop awaiting a paint job all summer. It's a good bet that I'll be done long before he is. I'd love to have it back before winter, but I'm sure it'll be at the track by May anyway. I still have the hood from the z31, I was thinking of removing the scoop and mounting it on the passenger side of the Pathfinder hood to have a "cold air intake" what do you guys think? The scoop and the SS tailpipe will be the only thing that will give it away.

Ok, I haven't spend alot of time on that project in a while but I recently got back to it a little bit. Thought you guys might wanna see a few pics of the air intake and downpipe. Enjoy.. http://www.members.shaw.ca/icecube/PathyPipes/

Whoops.. got posted twice, please delete me..

I've been known to help all of my friends with car problems (unless of course they happen to drive a ford) If that's the case, I don't even wanna hear about it and my friends know it.

Yeah, you're biggest problem would be the oil pan clearing the front diff. It definatly won't work unless you make a custom oil pan and sump. You'll notice that the 4wd oil pan actually stretches around the side of the diff because the engine basically sits right on top of the diff. Not to mention the obvious issue of the L6 being longer.

Actually I don't have those big injectors in my car anymore. I put them in my Pathfinder and went back to the stock injectors along with a un-tuned 84zxt ecu. I was thinking more on why it ran so poorly afterwards. I can't see it being anything to do with the engine, just a shot in the dark but perhaps the injectors took a workout trying to feed enough fuel for 20psi and got hot? I can't imagine anything else...

I borrowed a boost controller off of my buddy (BernardD) and decided to make my own "copy" of it. So I bought $10 worth of parts from the hardware store. Well the first run I tried it out and the boost spiked up to 20+ psi before I even knew what hit me! I was only for a split second but it really freaked me out! Right afterwards it was running terribile, I thought it might stall out, idle was poor, hesitant throttle response.. very bad sounding in general.. A few minutes later it was fine. I had to mess around with the spring several times as the boost kept spiking up to 15 or so. I didn't want any more than 10 or so as I have no intercooler or water injection. Finally I got it so that it runs around 10-11 and man what a difference!!! The car is pulling harder than it ever has and seems to be ok with the higher boost, no pinging, although it was quite a cool day. I'll have to keep an eye on it till I can look at the ecu tuning. Quite a close call on the engine though, I doubt it would have taken that for very long at all!!

If you decide to buy a volt gauge I definatly recommend a mechanical one! Same goes for a fuel level gauge. Ha ha... J/k Mechanical guages (oil, temp) are sposed to be more accurate.

I'm sorry this is not Z related but I can't seem to find any good info on the Corolla.. Perhaps someone could point me in the right direction? Ok, here's the deal. I have a 89 corolla Sr5 I believe it's a 4af engine with a carb. The carb seems to be messed up and although I am good with carburetors I have no desire to fix a Japanese carb. They are quite complex comparted to a domestic one and a carb kit will cost almost half of what I can buy a used injected engine for. I know it's more work, but sometimes I do this stuff for kicks.. I found a Fwd twin cam 4age motor at the wrecking yard that I can get real cheap. My question is what EXACTLY do I need to swap this engine over? Here's a rundown of what I think I might need. complete engine tranny (I've heard that it will bolt to the original trans however??) posibly driveshafts?? struts?? gas tank (complete with fuel pump) engine mounts (I assume that they are different?) crossmember is the same I hope? ECU, complete with wiring (I think it's integrated to main harness *sob*) starter, alternator, PS pump air intake and MAP sensor. Anything I am missing? Perhaps more parts are compatable than I think??

Yep, been there, done that.. I got burnt twice that way. You know the exhaust manifold bolt on the rear side of a L28? The bolt broke off so I resorted to EZ outs.. Well I ended up taking the whole head off! Same thing happened to my Vg30 (still haven't decided how to deal with that)

You go to the local drive thru and when you get to the window to pick up your order, everyone working in the store comes to the window to check out your car.. (this actually happened to me a couple of weeks ago)

I'm sure it would effect it to some degree, however I don't think it would amount to enough to worry about. Copper radiators get painted all the time. Just don't spray in so much that it looks like sombody smeared colored peanut butter on it!

Sounds interesting Drax, you got me thinking about swapping my engine, however I'm sure that using the higher CR would surely make the intercooler MANDATORY.

I've mentioned that I can get 3" downpipes made up but nobody ever takes me up on it.

Here is the way it was explained to me a long time ago... It is a very GENERAL formula but it does make sense. Boost is relative to atmospheric pressure, and atomospheric pressure is roughly 14psi depending on your elevation. This is what most engines have to run on, however if you take a 100hp engine and boost it to 14psi (double atmospheric pressure) you will double the HP output. Now to say you take a N/a L28 engine rated at 145hp isn't gonna give you the same value as a turbo engine because you have to remember that a true turbo engine has a lower compression ratio and will not have as much power without boost. Lets say however that a 7.3 to 1 turbo engine can produce 120hp without any boost. Then if we were to give it 7psi (stock boost levels) then we could increase power by 50% Therefore 120hp + 50% (60HP) = 180HP @7psi then.. 120hp + 100% (120HP) =240HP @14psi Like I said, this is a very general formula, lots of things will effect HP and torque. My experience is that a bigger exhaust will give you more psi just because more exhaust gases will find it's way though the exhaust turbine because of the improved flow. I used to run 7psi steady all the time, but with the 3" exhaust my boost was reaching 9psi. I've never dyno'd my car but judging by the 1/4mile trap speed vs. my car's weight, I'd guess I'm running 220HP at the rear wheels, not bad for a engine that was rated at 180hp at the flywheel. Amazing what a few bolt ons can do to a turbo. I'd say my biggest gains were from the exhaust and the modified ecu.

I used to be a big carb advocate, however now I think that fuel injection is the way to go.. Especially with a z31 ecu, I hate that door flapper AFM in the 280's

My buddy sells mounts for RB engines mounted in 1st gen Z's,

I dragged a Z engine out the bottom once many moons ago.. Definatly NOT the easy way to do it!

This flange is for the stock Nissan T3, sorry

You do need a couple more slight bends than that.. a couple to straighten out after the tranny, and perhaps a couple at the diff (for sure if you have a R200) I would not bother getting a T5 tranny, for sure that will cause you come headaches with your exhaust and I don't think they are really any better than the Nissan trans anyway. There isn't any room for hammering the firewall as your gas pedal is right there (at least in North America) Get a muffler that is a "free flowing" style (something you can see right through) It'll have a nice sound and the turbo will love it. I have a DP that we used to mock up the 3" idea but never used it cuz when we went to build the exhaust system we misplaced it. I'd have to take mine off and make sure it fits my car but I'd sell it if you're interested. It's made from the same SS material and believe me it is NICE stuff! Here are some pics: http://members.shaw.ca/icecube/DPclose.jpg http://members.shaw.ca/icecube/DPside.jpg

Thats why I still have my air regulator switch, it's kinda nice having fast idle if you are gonna drive it all the time.

Assuming you can tune your upper powerband, stock turbo injectors should be good for 250hp (but that is pushing it) Any more and they will lean out therefore the need for bigger injectors. Unless you are planning on running above that HP range then I wouldn't bother. However I'm going by the idea of tuning the ecu rather than the afm. Tuning the afm isn't really that precise.

It's a 5spd, it has a engine oil cooler now that I have the turbo engine though. As if having to re-locate the oil filter to the frame rail under the passenger seat won't cool it off a fair bit anyway.. LOL Oh and that way I get to use a bigger oil filter too, turns out to be the same one that the Z uses!